spacec0w

Last winter this iMac was dropped and the logic board was damaged, I changed it and it worked. Early on I replaced the HD...

I am using the exact same model as the original LCD, and when I boot up at some point the loading circle freezes and the...

I have this same problem with this model that was dropped about 4 feet. I've tried all the usual suspects, reseating...

Not sure how many people are around to help with an issue like this, but here it goes... Got a PB 15" 1.5Ghz a while ago...

First of all, can a bad dc-in board fry the logic board? I have a suspicion this has happened, as I've just replaced a...

Hi, I really need some help, I replaced the cable with the proximity sensor in order to fix the power button, then the...

First, the original monitor had occaisonal problems, fixed sometimes fiddling with the screen on the hinges. Then, the...

Power button stopped working a while ago, so the computer was never turned off until it was on battery power and died. Now...

Hi, I'm repairing an iPod 3rd Gen that came to me with a broken screen. The touch aspect didn't work. After replacing the...

Your screen is probably defective. Refurbished phones that come with new parts are almost always using the lowest quality possible. Therefore a defect is not surprising. Hopefully you can get help from the seller otherwise it will need to be replaced.

MacBook batteries as far as I know are all intercompatible, 2015-2017.

If you have already reconnected the display cable on the motherboard try taking off the screen and checking the other end of the cable. Find a guide to help you-it's not hard. Sometimes in these models the screen will go black because there's a connection problem. Usually motherboard side but the problem can sometimes be on the screen’s connector. If this doesn't work you can try a broken screen.

Yup that drive with a full SATA connector is definitely not compatible with any Retina model. Someone should let them know..

Simple answer.. yes! MacBook Air 13” 2013-2017 are all intercompatible. And the 2013-2014 have the same gen Intel CPU, and then it only changes a bit for the 2015 and again for the 2017. Source: I commonly buy these boards and generally try to source the 2015 boards for all 2013, 2014, 2015 models as to give my customers a little upgrade.

After seeing conflicting information I've just opened up an Early 2011 15" MBP and a Late 2011 13" MBP and both of these can definitely have just the keyboard changed (tons of little screws-but no rivets, as I believe is the case for Retina MBPs Early 2012 and later). Mayer, I've seen you giving this advice out in other threads, I don't think it's true for 2011 models. You're suggesting a repair that is in many cases more than a $100 more expensive than is necessary, and isn't even that much easier.

Hi Lawrence, You'll of course need an adapter because the new SSD is 2.5" and the previous 1TB is 3.5". Yes, the sensor for the temperature won't work correctly until you install special software http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ (this is free, should work fine) or http://hddfancontrol.com/. Generally the best method for upgrading would be to install the SSD, install Mavericks on it from scratch with http://liondiskmaker.com/ (although for the time being you actually can't make an install USB with 10.6), then attach the old HDD via an external cable or case and follow the migration assistant steps that pop up after the installation. A Time Machine backup will work splendidly as well. I would avoid a direct copy of the disk because any problems you may have had with the old one will be copied onto the new one. Hopefully this helps. I have a similar setup with this same iMac, but I put my SSD where the optical drive is, and put a 3TB 3.5" HDD where the main drive goes.

I have been buying "original" cables with this sensor now for some time, and only just started connecting the fact that the light sensor (not the proximity sensor) has been blacked out with a black permanent marker. They tend to work with all of my replacement screens, sometimes without the foam spacer/UV filter that goes over the proximity sensor. So, recently what I've done when the new screens don't work with the sensor right, is blacked out the light sensor (just one dab) then tested, and it always works, but sometimes I first have to remove the UV filter. In fact more often. Overall it has fixed it 100% so far! (aprox 10/10). Much easier than applying a foam spacer!

I too have had this same problem (3 screens, two different manufacturers, 3 proximity sensors, the two different model numbers) where the sensor just wouldn't work. Tried restoring, didn't work. SOLUTION: Black marker over area for sensors on underside of screen.

Does anyone know what the thing left on the headphone jack is? The guide doesn't mention removing it and putting it on the new cable.

I am sick of the occaisonal misinformation iFixit provides. The longer cable that connects on the right side of the screen is so very obviously not just the camera cable. It is also the cable for the Airport and Bluetooth cards... This misinformation led me to spend 100€ on two LCD cables which I now have no use for.

I don't wish to just complain though of course. Can someone please correct this? On the other pages for this MBP the cable is listed in the same way.

Why is thermal paste not mentioned here? I added a fine layer of it on top of the chips that touch the heatsink as I thought I was supposed to but now my client says her computer is running hotter than normal. Should I not have used any?

I think this is genius.