Sometime last year a group on kickstarter came out with direct wired repair they call Blinking Light Win, https://www.arcadeworks.net/blw It replaces the game slot and cart bed on a front loading NES. I replaced mine last week with one. I haven't had any issues with any cart yet. It is 3x's the cost of just replacing with a standard replacement connector. It can be a little tight in getting a cart out of the game. It feels more like a toploader with the benefit of RCA game hook up. I called it direct wired because the cart is engaged when you put it in the slot. You no longer press it down to engage. If I experience any problems with it I will post back here.
It sounds like your shutter release may be stuck in. Lightly push out the shutter release. There is a second release just behind the first. Do the same with it. I would try putting the exposed prints back in the film pack. Remove the pack from the camera and slide the prints in the same way they come out. You have to press down the metal spring on the far end to slide the prints in all the way. Now put it back in the camera to see if it functions correctly. As long as the battery is still go you can continue try this or use this pack to test another camera. Note this camera sells for under 20 shipped on ebay.
This was helpful for me recovering my Compaq CQ62: http://www.pcworld.com/article/248995/ho...-to-install-windows-7-without-the-disc.html http://helpdeskgeek.com/windows-7/lost-windows-7-install-disc-create-a-new-one-from-scratch/ The COA was scratched up so the app listed was a real help. Reformatted and installed in less than an hour.
A friend gave me the 20" version of this monitor over the summer with the same issue. I thought I could find a replacement hinge on ebay or other secondary market. No luck. They were either for the wrong size or too expensive. I had the thought of putting it in a fixed position by tapping it with a screw, but it is not made like that. Where I thought I could tap is only plastic. No luck, but a thought. Reverse it. I turned the hinge around. You need to slide the ferrite filter to the other side. There are three index marks that will need to be filed down. Screw it back down and replace the cover and stand. It now seats on my desk at little greater than 90°s, no slide. Gravity should keep it from coming forward. Ok, I could have tried to set it as it was by tightening the nuts on the ends of the hinge. But I could have over tightened (not mentioned in the manual) and snapped them off and/or it might still be loose.
Another is Griffin's Powerwave (usb) Audio adapter. The nice thing about the Powerwave was that it came with a pro speaker breakout cable to attach standard two line speakers. Ok, so to use the Apple Pro speakers you need either a iFire, Powerwave, G4 iMac, Powermac G4 (Digital Audio, Quicksilver and MDD). Meaning that all the components to make an iFire substitute already exist on these used logic boards: Apple Pro speaker connector; amplifier and stereo audio connector and how they are powered. Does this sound reasonable? $20~30 for a used logic board compared to $200+ for a used iFire, it could be worth a try. Any thoughts?