I'm assuming that you are getting a rattle at idle or at some range of rpm? Also the flywheel bolts you're referring to would be the ones connecting the torque converter to the flywheel? Most cars have a cover plate at bottom of the transmission next to engine (inspection plate). You'll be able to see those bolts once its removed. However! If they have been loose, they WILL elongate the hole on flywheel. Tightening them usually doesn't last very long. If that is the case then only option is to pull transmission and replace the flywheel.
Sounds like its running lean at the high end. Double check the fuel/oil mixture is correct. Also the high rpm has a mixture adjustment on the carb. Best to have someone that has adjusted those before to get it set correctly.
Depends. 1. Where crack is on the head 2. Is there a welder in your area willing and qualified to do it? My experience has been to never weld one. Find a reconditioned one or a junk yard one then take it to machine shop to have checked out. Sorry, no easy way on this one.
An exact location will be hard to define. But, It will come out of the firewall, passenger side, low on the firewall. You’ll see a black tube probably with an I.D. of 5/16th’s hanging straight down. What I’ve found to be most likely problem is the floor mat will get pushed up kinking it inside where it comes off the evaporator box. Could be debris has got into evap then has clogged it. It should be fairly easy to see from the passenger side floor. All else fails, take it off and blow through it. To get rid of the smell. I recommend using “Ozium” spray. Set your controls on Recirculate, low fan speed then spray it at bottom of evaporator box ( give it a good long spray). That way it will get sucked into evap core. Then shut it all down, let it sit for as long as you can. It will kill any bacteria. I’d give it a shot of it from time to time just to keep it clean. Hope this helps.
https://files.acrobat.com/a/preview/1473...-7ea1-42e5-b19c-70f20d49098f Here is a link to the wiring diagram of the heated seats. Also it'll be easier to see whats going on if you were to remove the seat so you can see under it better. Hope this helps
Hi Nance, You'll probably be ok doing that. They use a number of the same relays in the car. On top of relay it may have a schematic of what it does, if they match then you should be good to go on testing. There are ways to test the relay with ohm meter but that is the quickest way. Make sure your A/C is on so it sends power to the relay.
Henry, I'd try and contact one of the companies that handle restoration parts for your truck. If the don't have what you need they can sure steer you to who does. https://www.npdlink.com/store/catalog/19...-50000-1.html http://www.lmctruck.com/index.htm https://www.blueovaltruckparts.com/
Henry, You might try contacting some of the companies that handle restoration parts for those trucks. Here are a few I Know of. They can steer you in the right direction if they don't have it. https://www.blueovaltruckparts.com/ http://www.lmctruck.com/index.htm http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-f100-parts/c/4097/?gclid=CN_M05SoptQCFQyPaQod... https://www.npdlink.com/store/catalog/19...-50000-1.html Like I said, they may know where to go to find what your looking for. Good luck.
Yuri, More than likely it has blown a fuse that protects the electrical system. Probably inline off of the positive cable. Try looking down the positive cable for a fuse holder if not then see where your fuses are and go through them. Not real familiar with that particular bike but that is pretty much a standard practice.
Hi Ed, When you say "all " lights go out. Do all lights go out including tail and running lights or is it just the low beams and the fog lamps? If it's just the low beams and fog lamps, that very well may be a normal function of the car. I have an older Jeep Cherokee that does the same thing. Some manufacturers leave the low beams on but shut off the fog lamps. They are different by manufacturer on the setups.