Stephen Elliott

So got an iPhone 6 in that won't power on. Tested main lines and removed a short in vcc_main. After so all other lines I...

So looking for a motherboard specialist who can possibly shed some new light/ideas for me. I'm working on this iPhone 6...

So before I move forward on this "fun" one I'd like to get some input. Long story short iPhone 6 was dropped and now it's...

So I'm in the process of a data recovery and am stuck in a spot. Short story customer dropped iPhone, now phone acts as if...

Alright so this might be the strangest backlight problem Ive seen on a phone. Hopefully someone has had this similar issue...

So I have this iPhone 6 with no backlight..connects to iTunes and all that good stuff but no backlight at all (display or...

So I currently have an iPhone 6 Plus with no backlight whatsoever. Obviously no display as well. I've tried swapping out...

So I've been working with backlight recently and can't find a lot of information on mesa boost ic's purpose. For example I...

After a screen replacement the iPhone goes to the Apple logo for about 3 seconds then lcd dims completely. Have tried...

So after replacing the board in an iPhone 6 the phone won't boot up unless front camera is disconnected. The weird thing...

This is a good one to get the brain thinking. To my knowledge the only place you'll find the serial number is in settings itself or if you can successfully connect it to iTunes and it reads properly. Imei is obviously on sim tray and in settings along with on back of phone. Do you use this program for chip off data recovery or just nand repair? Leading to my next question wouldn't a new nand have a problem pairing with original apu? Sorry to ask a few questions instead of offering real help, you just sparked my curiosity. I'll also do some research on my own and let you know if I find anything that can help you here.

As long as you're getting full backlight but no image check chestnut ic. This provide voltages to touch and display. It is most likely not gpu related. I would still inspect coil for cracks/damage as it might not be putting enough voltage through to give full backlight to image. If you tilt the board and look under chestnut (u1501) you might be able to see under ic for cracked solder balls. I normally don't recommend reflowing but you could put some flux on the ic and heat for about 20 seconds at 355 if balls underneath look cracked. Also check voltages out from u1501.

Remember the separate home connector cable on the 6 and 6 plus you could replace apart from the screen? This ran from the connector on the board, underneath the metal plate and to the home button flex itself. I'm assuming this is just that. Simply connects your home flex to the board itself.

Hey, gotcha. That's actually very common with the iPad mini digitizer replacement. So that would actually have nothing to do w/ the lcd. If its ever a problem w/ touch on your device it will be related to digitizer and any problems related to picture is lcd. Most likely one of two things is going on. Either your replacement screen is faulty or your replacement screen didn't come with the protective cloth tape strip at the bottom. If you still have the original screen and look at the bottom inside of it, near the home button hole, you should see a thin black cloth like strip that goes along the width of the glass itself. This helps against what's called "ghosting" which is what you're experiencing. Its kind of weird to explain so hopefully that makes sense. If not or if you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask

Guaranteed your battery is dead. As soon as you swap the new one in it should fix this.

I would first inspect the physical digitizer connector (long one above lcd and front camera connector) and make sure all the pins look good. If they do it might be a touch ic problem. Standing lines w/ no touch or intermittent touch is classic for touch ic problems.

I would definitely have a professional look at repairing the charging port on this model. Saying this is a difficult task is an understatement even for professional micro solderers. The charging port is soldered with high melt alloy to the board itself. Basically this is a $@$* repair usually not worth doing.

Al,out always when wifi is greyed out your wifi module on the back is either damaged or a surrounding cap needs replacing. There wasn't heat applied to that area if the board was there?

I was going to upload a video walking through what to test but ifixit is retarded when it comes to uploading media. I would recommend taking the new ic you installed off and powering the device on with no new cumulus broadcom chip installed. It should power on without the chip. This will let you know if the chip was installed correctly or if you accidentally bridged pads.

Hi, first I strongly, and can't say enough STRONGLY, advise you don't continue to attempt to turn the device on. I would take it to a reputable repair store and have them run a professional cleaning on it. Make sure they use an ultrasonic cleaner and remove any necessary shielding over board components. You basically want to clean off any left over minerals from the liquid that has been left on the board. Many times a cleaning itself will work but in the case it doesn't and you have one or multiple shorts you will need a board level specialist to look at it. Also I wouldn't wait as there could still be liquid sitting in the device waiting to cause more damage. If personal data is your biggest concern be very picky who you let touch your phone. Just because they operate a store doesn't mean they're good at what they do. I'd check out the business's online reviews prior to letting them touch the device. Hope this helps a little.