Anybody using super glue on their repairs needs to have their hands slapped… If the mounting surfaces are properly cleaned, prepped and primed, the original style adhesive will bond the screen to the housing adequately. When super glue is used, it contaminates the mounting surface, preventing the adhesive to bond properly on any future repairs where the tech wants to do the repair properly. To prevent lifting near the flex cable, manipulate the thick part of flex so that it is curled in a bit - this will allow the flex to slide into its given area and prevent it from pushing up on the glass and breaking the adhesive bond.
Really no need to remove the logic board. Use a syringe to apply some Goo B Gone around the outside edge of the battery and in the gap in the center, but not the edge next to the logic board - also, don’t flood it and make a mess, just enough to make contact with the adhesive. Let sit for about an hour and then use heat and playing cards as usual. Once the battery is free, heat the back of the tablet where the logic board sits and again use playing cards to lift the logic board just enough so that the battery contact board can clear the alignment peg. I’ve used this procedure a few times now with no issues - just take your time…
The contacts at the back of the HDMI port are offset on the PS4. The port may look the same but when placed onto the board, the contacts will be in between the solder pads in stead of over them. Sometimes you can bend the mounting legs of the port to shift it over and align the contacts, but it’s best to just get the correct port. Heads up though, almost all suppliers of the PS4 port are not selling the offset style, so you’ll have to do some hunting to find a supplier that has the proper port…
As for getting the flex cables to snap back in; You basically need to add about a quarter millimeter thickness to the back of the foam behind the amoled display and s-pen flex cable connectors. I apply a strip of double sided tape to the foam, the same width and length, but leave the tape's protective paper in tact so you are not taping the connectors to the back of the display. This will move the connector up "just" enough to be able to snap it into the socket. You'll want to press firmly against the screen and logic board at each connector point, but don't force it. The connectors for the rear camera and usb flex won't need extra tape, but connect in the same manner.
As for the two "tabs" at the bottom of the flex cable, I'd have to say that those are alignment tabs used during manufacturing and assembly. Looking at an OEM cable from a screen assembly, it looks like those were cut off prior to installation. The copper tape is a combination ground and heat sink for the front facing camera and should be transferred over to the new assembly. Give it a little heat to loosen the adhesive and it should easily detach from the back of the camera and the LCD shield
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