Miles Raymond

I bought a brand new cable and charger from Apple and it resolved my issue. The iPhone 6+ I use can only charge from the old charger when it is already turned on, no longer when it has no battery. It has the same issue with several non-Apple cables as well. Try using both a new Apple cable as well as a new Apple charger to see if your issue is similar.

Have you considered instead to find a longer ZIF to ZIF cable to replace the cable from the logic board directly to the ZIF hard drive?

Wired: You'll need an AAUI to Ethernet adapter. You can find an official Apple adapter on eBay, or a generic one for less. These aren't terribly difficult to find, but aren't common enough to find in a local parts store. Wireless: Method 1: You'll need the Apple PC Card Cage and a PC Card compatible with Apple's Airport card (to make it easier). The PC Card Cage is very hard to find and expensive if you find it. An ORINOCO PC card is relatively easy to find and cheap. Method 2: Using the AAUI to Ethernet adapter and a Ethernet to WiFi adapter. You can find a battery-powered Ethernet to WiFi adapter, but all these adapters won't make it easy to move around.

The original MacBook Air should use a 40pin connector with a PATA communication protocol to the logic board. Most eBay suppliers tend to refer to this as ZIF. The subsequent MacBook Airs (Late 2008 or Mid 2009) should use a 24pin connector with a SATA communication protocol to the logic board. Some eBay suppliers tend to refer to this as LIF. Though this distinction doesn't seem universal... http://conics.net/ziflif/

If you want to do this without a hardware modification, you can use the free software Screen Recycler once you have a working OS. If one of them already has an OS, you should be able to boot the other into Target Disk Mode (TDM) and then use the one with the working OS to copy (or 'clone') itself over to the non-working one. Just make sure you know which is which, because you don't want to overwrite a working system with a non-working one.

While Apple only supports up to Mac OS X 10.7 Lion officially on the late 2007 MacBook, using the help of MLPostFactor, you can install up to OS X 10.8.3 Mountain Lion unofficially. Just beware that there might be some issues due to the incompatibility of newer OS software on officially unsupported hardware. Now MacPostFactor will allow the installation of OS X 10.8.5 on our older unsupported MacBooks. It can also install 10.9 but without accelerated graphics, so I wouldn't recommend it.

To expand on machead3's answer, compare the existing AirPort card connectors in the 2011/2012 Mac Mini: 2011 https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig... 2012 https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig... with that from the 2014 Mac Mini: 2014 https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

You can check this other question for a similar answer: Swap late 2008 Black MacBook logic board to Mid 2009 logic board? Basically, it is possible, but if your model is the white one, it would be easier to look for a used Macbook on eBay with a broken screen and just swap your working screen over to the working body.

All the non-unibody MacBooks should use the same physical/electrical connector for the upper case (keyboard/trackpad), so if you can, find one in your color without the apple logo key (newer version). You can purchase the newer Upper Case directly from iFixit. They also have an excellent guide for replacement.

To add to robignorant's answer, you'll need the trackpad from the A1260 (not the A1226) model of MacBook Pro, which you can find on iFixit or on eBay for cheaper. If you're having difficulty determining if it is an A1226 or A1260 upper case, the keyboard on the A1260 has a right 'alt/option' key where the A1226 has an 'enter' key near the arrow keys. Unfortunately, iFixit only has a guide for replacing the upper body, but no guide for replacing the trackpad. You can find some info on MacRumors forum but the steps are not nearly as thorough if you are used to the iFixit guides.

At what temperature shold the glass be heated to? My heat gun goes from 250 up to 1350.

There is no need to replace the adhesive for this battery. Please do your future fellow man a favor and do not replace the adhesive.

Test the battery before doing anything with adhesive. Also, the adhesive is entirely optional - it is NOT necessary for the phone to function well, as the battery is a tight enough fit not to wiggle any connectors loose.

This is also unnecessary for replacing the battery.

The 3 screws on the lower left are not necessary to remove the battery, only the top 8 screws.

If you are careful, there is no need to remove the whole storage unit and can unscrew the optical drive after removing the top case. The screws at the back are a bit tricky, but not impossible to remove while the storage unit remains attached to the logic board and bottom cover.

Please reconsider. Youtube has many teardown videos, and the high quality writeups are what differentiate iFixit from others.

Please post the writeup with pictures. Videos are UNPLAYABLE on older computer equipment in the detail needed to view certain specifics.

Yes, I understand that taking and posting your video takes far less effort on your part, but the teardown writeups are why I come to iFixit. If I wanted to waste my time with teardown videos, I’d go to any amateur on Youtube.

There is also a screw holding down the ribbon cable to the main board. which needs to be removed prior to display assembly removal.

For the rubber screw covers, it is easiest to push at them at the top, otherwise you have the possibility of damaging the surrounding rubber.

Any hints at getting the center plastic screw cover out?