Completed Guides


  • iPod Nano 5th Generation Display Replacement

    On mine, there was yellow tape covering both the display ribbon connector and the adjacent S-shaped ribbon on the logic board - I had to lift the tape away from the display ribbon and cut it, leaving the tape covering the S-shaped ribbon. There was extra tape at the other end, too. I wasn't going to cut it, but the rubbery/foam stuff on the back of the display ribbon connector was stuck to the tape, with the new ribbon below, it was too thick. I replaced the tape with new, because re-assembling without tape, the rubbery foam stuff smears off on the housing as you push the assembly back in.

  • iPod Nano 5th Generation Display Replacement

    The metal clips didn't really retain the display on mine, I got the impression they're just contact fingers which bear on the metal switchplate when the iPod is assembled.

  • MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Teardown

    " Damaged spring tabs means just replacing a $0.30 interposer."

    $0.30 to Apple. $49+ to you and I, apparently. It'd actually be cheaper to get a PCB prototyping company to make one.

  • Re-assembly is kind of the reverse of disassembly, but replacing some of the glue may be required, particularly for the camera/mic cover. Sliding the logic board into the housing is an exercise in considerable care - the display ribbon, the speaker ribbon, various bits of yellow tape, all can snag on the lugs around the clickwheel hole, or the camera/mic holes.

  • Non-upgradeability, non-repairability, and OSX Lion are why I bought the last of the non-Retina MBPs instead.

    At least the SSD comes out, though, even if it's nonstandard. So issues with data under NDAs can be worked around if it has to go in for "repair" (replacement looks more likely). Soldered memory is really annoying (especially on the 13" where they only offer 8G) but there's a weight and size argument for that. Glued battery, though, is just deliberate obsolescence.

    That said, I wonder, have iFixit tried hot wire for un-gluing the cells? Seems to me that a thing similar to what one would use for carving styrofoam, i.e. a nichrome hotwire, might be just the thing for that, so long as it can be slipped in behind the cells?