Chad McCollister

Interesting info! You can also use an ammeter or something like the Kaisi battery activator ($20 unit with some other benefits for repair techs) to determine if the Amp draw through the lightning port is within normal range. I'm a bit hesitant personally of unplugging the battery while sending a charge through the lightning port. It maybe safe, but it seems like there is potential to cause issues due to how touchy the Tristar is to voltage irregularities in the first place.

I have replaced the 0432 with the 0435 without issues many, many times in the past. I always try to keep the 616-0435 in stock in my store because it seems to be the most universally compatible APN. I also will add that sometimes replacement batteries from some vendors are just plain faulty. Nothing is more frustrating than getting a replacement battery that has issues just due to poor manufacturing or not being properly tested. Look for "genuine" or "original" specification if you can find them. It will limit your chances for getting a junk part. You get what you pay for!

The CDMA iPhone 4 back panel is compatible with the i4s. GSM i4 back panel is NOT compatible with iPhone 4s. So basically a Verizon or Sprint iPhone 4 back will fit any iPhone 4s and vice versa. Hope this helps, Chad

One other suggestion is to plan on replacing the force touch pressure sensor gasket any time you pry a screen off one of these watches. They are very inexpensive now ($5 range) and easily damaged when prying up the screen or when trying to remove glass shards embedded along the edge of the screen. Replacing the gasket also assures new, fresh adhesive to hold the new screen onto the watch body properly and keeping water resistance intact. If you skip the gasket replacement, plan on a high likelihood of the new screen coming loose and having to take it all back apart again just to replace that $5 adhesive gasket down the road.

I agree with Jeff53, by far the retention clip bracket was the most nerve racking part on my first attempt. I found that inserting a sharp pointed exacto knife blade between the bracket and metal tops of the screen connectors along the edge that has the smaller clip (closest side to the battery connector) while it was still in a glued down position actually works easier than prying the entire connector up first as done in this guide and then trying to hold it with tweezer while inserting a flat tip screwdriver into that very tiny slit between the bracket and the top of the connectors. Once the excto blade is inserted, just a little twist of the blade pops the retention clip off easily.

replacements are available on ebay. If you want to save a little money, (they aren't cheap) bid on a demo unit and remove the screen from that one and put it in your broken kindle. You may want to review some other teardown guides on some other sites, though. This walkthrough leaves out some details that are useful such as the fact that the screen is held in with adhesive, which makes the final removal tricky, just to name one.

I tried editing this step, but it wouldn't let me. As Chris says, DON'T pry off the back housing. It will break your phone! Some of these are tricky, as mine doesn't always lift off easily regardless of whether or not I press the bottom button. At the most, with the button depressed, put something like a guitar pick or similar in the seam and use that to help you lift off the back, but make sure the button is pressed down!