Not too sure, but I'm thinking this refers to reducing the max performance the CPU will operate at? I've read this in other places, as well. All I can think is that, at the 100% setting, the motherboard in question is overheating- or that the CPU is unable to sustain a 100% output (defective/over<wbr />heating perhaps due to improper heatsink placement?). So, by going into the performance/pow<wbr />er settings, you're able to reduce the high-end of the CPU from 100% to whatever you'd like (say, 75%). It may slow the PC a bit, but it's better slower than "dead"? Read here. FYI
Hi Duke, You ought to get into the factory check screen & do a diagnostic on the hard drive. To do that is similar to the reset screen- except you hold the centre button/back. In the menu that shows up, use the forward button to select IO/HDD and see if the drive passes. You can run all tests, as well. Good luck!
Hi Felipe, As an owner of this laptop, and as someone who does computer work for spare $$- it sounds as though the actual internal connection may have broken (where the power pin is inserted)...It'<wbr />s possible that the solder has broken/cracked & this may be causing a short. I'm only guessing (obviously)- but based on what you've said here, there's not much else...You did say you "replaced the cable"- but did you actually replace the entire power unit, or just the one cord? Places like the large electronics shops (Best Buy, etc) have generic chargers that run around $80US. Ask to verify it will power your unit- if it doesn't work- don't buy it. Lastly, I bought a generic, new, replacement battery on ebay for $38. Cheers! Tracy