%#*!^@. I spent a LONG time writing USABLE instructions only to have them vanish because I’m using my phone!!!! Update (01/14/2021): 2010 Focus: this is pretty confusing so I’ll try… Have ALL Fobs present, ready to have a button pressed upon completion, or they’ll be deactivated after this. Now, when you insert the key, this is Position 1! Forward two positions, is where you’ll want to cycle between AND end up…this is where the dash lights-up and one more position, you’re starting the car. Get used to that cycle, 1 to 3. Counting starts when you insert the key. Say “one”. Everytime you move to position 3, advance the count. So the first time you move the key forward TWO CLICKS say “two”. Back to Pos 1 and again to Pos 3, say “three” and so on. Using this method of counting, you’ll Stop when, at Pos 3, you say “eight” and chaos ensues as a thousand locks on a thousand cars lock/unlock over and over. When the shaking stops, Before you run for a change of clothes, press Any ONE button on the nearest Fob and...
If I’d read-on before my comment at the top (first opportunity) of this page, I would’ve seen your mention of the ‘huge asterisk’ and link to (I’m assuming here) the explanation of that asterisk. With the components being somehow ID’d to eachother and the logic board, and no instructions how to reestablish full functionality of All features AFTER a replacement of any component/module, how is this a 6?! It’s a ZERO. Maybe a one, since you can perform the mechanical operations related to Hardware repair/replace. Bud certainly, if you’re left with less than 99% (waterproofing may not be achievable?) of a repaired device, this doesn’t seem like even a 6…
Unless something has changed in the past two weeks, a youtube channel bought two brand new 12’s and upon swapping components between the two, experienced multiple malfunctions. Starting with the logic board, simulating every component being replaced, then JUST swapping camera modules- to no avail. It seems the modules are ID’d to eachother and the logic board making DIY and third-party repair seemingly impossible without additional software-related steps being performed to “authorize” the replaced components …
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If I’d read-on before my comment at the top (first opportunity) of this page, I would’ve seen your mention of the ‘huge asterisk’ and link to (I’m assuming here) the explanation of that asterisk. With the components being somehow ID’d to eachother and the logic board, and no instructions how to reestablish full functionality of All features AFTER a replacement of any component/module, how is this a 6?! It’s a ZERO. Maybe a one, since you can perform the mechanical operations related to Hardware repair/replace. Bud certainly, if you’re left with less than 99% (waterproofing may not be achievable?) of a repaired device, this doesn’t seem like even a 6…
Unless something has changed in the past two weeks, a youtube channel bought two brand new 12’s and upon swapping components between the two, experienced multiple malfunctions. Starting with the logic board, simulating every component being replaced, then JUST swapping camera modules- to no avail. It seems the modules are ID’d to eachother and the logic board making DIY and third-party repair seemingly impossible without additional software-related steps being performed to “authorize” the replaced components …