Open the bottom by removing the single Philips head screw were the cord goes into the IP. Then slightly turn the bottom plate to remove
You will see the pressure switch. It has shiny metal bars and will be surrounded by white, soft rubber. It has 4 wires coming off it. Take a picture of this before you attempt to remove anything.
Order a new one. I found one on Amazon.
I will say without a doubt this switch was undersized for the amount of current. I think they should have used the presence side then ran the higher current to an SCR to improve it’s life. I can do this for about $15 at my cost and will never see this issue again. Then again, perhaps they want it to fail over time so you have to purchase a new one.
In any case, when you control alot of current with a mechanical contact, over time the contact will develops small arc’s across the face. when the wire overheats it deforms and never makes good contact again. This is why we don’t see many mechanical relays anymore.
My C6 fault was from the Pressure switch being burnt up on the heater side. It’s a double mechanical, momentary double throw contact switch. Like you would see in very old equipment. One side has much smaller wires and seem to be some sort of “presence” sensor. The other side has thicker wires and seen to route the current to the heater element. In my case, this is the side that burnt up. This isn’t obvious to look at from above. I had to remove the switch and look at it from the side. The small wire became discolored and no longer holding the shape necessary for it to toggle with pressure.
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