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  • Answer to: How to replace the internal clock battery

    BTW, you might want to know before you open the case that the battery you are replacing is labeled "ML1220/2E2E0X", which is a small watch-style cmos button battery soldered to a wire pigtail, so it's ready to plug in. They can be found on ebay or Amazon; if you're paying more than $5 including shipping, you're being ripped off. Another option is un-solder the original, find a generic ML1220 battery, and then solder the old pigtail connector to it, using shrink-wrap tubing to seal things back up. [This battery is probably identical to the very common CR1220, both being 3V lithium button batteries. Dunno. Switch to a different model if you don't mind the uncertainty and risk.]
  • Answer to: "Aux" connector on airport card?

    I played around with these connections before sealing my machine back up. With no antenna cabled onto the tiny bluetooth board, I found I was unable to discover my Mac from my adjacent cell phone. But the bluetooth capability still showed up in the System Profiler, of course, despite the lack of a signal. So then I popped the connector off of that bluetooth board and connected the antenna to the "Aux" post on the Airport Extreme card. As I'd suspected, the System Profiler then couldn't find any bluetooth subsystem at all. So, the verdict: the Bluetooth board is the correct place to attach the secondary antenna in the A1176, despite some confusion. (At least one person is confused, since I got my used Mini with the Bluetooth antenna attached to the "Aux" post). Whether attaching a secondary antenna to the "aux" port might help the Mini get a strong signal is something I didn't look into. The idea Ralph found at maclife.com of threading an aux antenna out of the back is intriguing though, especially since I get...
  • Answer to: DVD-RW making noises and not loading discs.

    Good to hear; I'm going to try the same thing. The mostly-working Mac Mini A1176 I just picked up also has a failing optical drive. It seems to have no problem with CDs and CDRs; occasionally reads DVDs and DVD-ROMs but usually spits 'em back out, and never accepts DVD-Rs or DVD+R/DLs (purple substrate). The existing drive claims to be a Matshita UJ-846-C (aka Panasonic) and is also labeled Apple Super 846CA. Checks seem to indicate the UJ846C costs around $50 on eBay and more at retail (although it seems to cost $199.95 here on ifixit). But several Panasonic UJ-846-Bs are selling for much less over on eBay, so I'm going to try that first.

Notes

  • iPad 3 4G Teardown

    If one wasn't planning on repairing, and thus didn't have to be delicate, could two massive suction cups on opposing flat surfaces pop this open without, for example, breaking open the batteries?

  • iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 and 2210 Glass Panel Replacement

    Tape works fine, here. Search for a YouTube video for a simple look-see.

  • I'm learning from cpu-world.com that the Core Duo (and Core Solo) are 32-bit architecture, whereas the Core 2 Duo is a 64-bit design. Does this matter in any way?