jonathan

Hey I'm just wondering about the small flex cable assembly that includes the power/lock button and volume buttons and is...

These Motorola says to use a #00 phillips but IMO a #000 fits a little deeper into it. I make sure to a)press down hard b) make sure I'm pressing down at exactly a right angle. It's a tough job. Motorola DROID repair Wait I just saw Doug's first post..they are "thread forming?" That sounds suspiciously like "self-tapping" which would make sense as far as how tight they are in there. Whenever I take them out there is bare metal on the threads, even though the screws themselves are black. Steady, hard pressure downward with a #000 bit using T-handle thing I created myself is the key, since I started using this self-made tool I haven't been unable to remove these screws and re-use them.

It lines up with the hole in the bottom of the phone. That's the long rectangular rubber part. The round part actually pressure fits over a round thing near the bottom of the motherboard. Once you find it it will make sense because it will fit perfectly around the round thing and extend exactly to where the hole is on the bottom of the housing. It's a pain in the butt to get back on, especially when I reassemble the phone and I look down and see it sitting in my parts dish still, I'm like FUUUUUU-

I suspect that you do indeed need to replace the LCD in order to fix your problem. Find a place like Inovagent Cell Phone Repair to do it if you're not comfortable doing it yourself. (Note: not an ad, Inovagent is mostly local)

I work on broken iPods all the time and we get water damaged iTouches in all the time. The backlight is built into the LCD and we'll try an LCD but the vast majority of the time, there is some kind of short in the motherboard that affects the backlight circuit. Your situation sounds all too similar...there isn't anything you can do at this point, I'm sorry to say.

I would just Google "iPod repair." That iTronics place fixes them, as well as an outfit called Inovagent Cell Phone Repair in Maryland. Disclosure: I work for Inovagent.

The headphone jack is surrounded by rubber. It's kind of squeezed in there. You can pry on it to get it out.

Are you guys kidding me? You are going to get in so much trouble.

Don't get me wrong--this is a super cool thing you've done, but if this guide is still up 48 hours from now, I'll be flabbergasted. So I hope lots of people are mirroring this!

This right here is the $100,000 question. Stick one of your existing AT&T iPhone 4 front assemblies on this bad boy and see if it fires up!

Note where the little rubber thing is. It's there to protect the digitizer and LCD ribbons curving over the top of the mobo. If you do these a lot, you're going to have a WTF moment when you go to put it back together and you have this short rubber strip....

I actually just figured it out. I had the ribbon cable for the digitizer running under the LCD and that wasn't allowing the LCD to sit down far enough. By re-folding the digitizer cable so it was triple-folded (when you do it you'll see what I mean) and only under the glass where there is no LCD, you'll get the glass to sit right.

There should be (in general) better notes about the reassembly process. Getting the thing glued back in is WAY harder than just "reverse this step." Getting it to sit flush with any kind of adhesion is pretty difficult. No real advice other than make sure the edges of the metal thing at the top of the back of the digitizer are in the right slots and use judiciously placed pieces of 3M 300LSE adhesive.

Cracked your front panel? Isn't that what was wrong with it in the first place?

You can leave the sensor stuck to the LCD if you're reusing the LCD. It just stays attached to the LCD no problem.

By it's BOTTOM edge.

Be careful to make sure you don't pinch the clear plastic tab under the mobo when reinstalling. :P