Guides I've Contributed To

Completed Guides



  • Answer to: Are the battery power connector for sale?

    In fact, iFixit has the top case+keyboard+trackpad+battery assembly in stock right now, for $525. has several elements of the 13" Retina battery system available. Similar to iFixit, the battery is not cheap: Battery Bridge Board (I think this is roughly what you mean by "power connector". If so, it's a lot cheaper than a replacement battery, which you probably also need) Battery Mounting Bracket Late 2013-Mid 2014 Retina Top case w/Battery Once we've found a retailer carrying the part, we can use the Apple part number we find there (Apple #661-8154) to search for additional options: NewEgg/used - $379 This vendor does not mention a battery, but the photo of the item clearly includes the battery. - $156-257 used New assemblies ( both from eBay and from online retailers) appear to be coming from Chinese vendors at prices ranging from US$600 on up. I have located one vendor who carries used A1502 battery assemblies without the top case -
  • Answer to: Where do I fund the model Number?

    What you're describing is a computer that starts up, but doesn't get to a desktop. If you have a bootable external hard drive, a system install DVD or a bootable flash drive, you can boot off one of those and get to an About This Mac screen from there. The operating system on the substitute drive has to be the same OS as the one that originally came with the computer, or later. If your computer has a FireWire or Thunderbolt port, you can connect it to another Mac and boot it as a target drive. Target Drive mode lets another computer talk to your internal drive as if it was an external drive, or vice versa; you start the hard-drive-only computer up while holding down the T key, and its hard drive will appear on the other computer's desktop. If you boot your troubled Mac off some other Mac's drive, you'll still be able to get the model information for your own computer from About This Mac/System Profiler. You'll also be able to run Disk Utility on your internal hard drive, which will no longer be the boot drive...
  • Answer to: MacBook Pro charging port replacement

    Well, yeah, maybe. But the one you need depends on the specific model of your computer, which you haven't told us. 1) 13": 2.1) Early 2011 - MagSafe DC-In Board, Installation Guide 2.2) Late 2011 - MagSafe DC-In Board, Installation Guide 1) 15": 2.1) Early 2011 - MagSafe DC-In Board, Installation Guide 2.2) Late 2011 - MagSafe DC-In Board, Installation Guide 1) 17": 2.1) Early/Late 2011 - Installation Guide iFixit doesn't currently stock the MagSafe board for 2011 17" MBPs - only 2009 ones. PowerbookMedic lists a variety of MagSafe boards, and specifies a different Apple part number for 2010 17" MagSafe boards (922-9288), but does not list either a part number or an item for the 2011 17" laptops. It's possible that a 2010 MagSafe board will fit, but it's hard to know without more information. If you'll look at the About This Mac screen and identify the actual model of MacBook Pro we're talking about, we'll be able to offer more help.
  • Answer to: I don't think this is the correct computer

    I've corrected the model link. I'm also posting links for the correct battery and for the replacement guide. It's a fairly easy swap, but it does require a specialized tool: the Y1 tri-wing screwdriver. Apple uses these weirdo screws to hold your battery to the computer chassis, in order to prevent you from doing exactly what you're about to do. The tri-wing screwdriver is available from iFixit as a standalone screwdriver, and as a bit in their screwdriver kits. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Battery Replacement MacBook Pro 15" Unibody (Mid 2009/Mid 2010) Replacement Battery Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver Essential Electronics Toolkit 54 Bit Driver Kit Pro Tech Toolkit 4mm Screwdriver Bits The Mid 2009 and Mid 2010 generations use the same battery. For future reference: The model number isn't a great way to ID your computer. The model ID (A1286, in your case) identifies the form factor, rather than a specific generation of the model. A1286 is the model number for every 15" Unibody MacBook Pro (October 2008-Octobe...
  • Answer to: necesito kit de herramientas para Mac, principalmente airbook cual me

    iFixit has several toolkits for disassembling MacBooks/MacBook Airs/MacBook Pros. Most MacBook Airs made since 2010 use Pentalobe 5 screws to attach the bottom case; iPhones use Pentalobe 2, while MacBook Pros use Pentalobe 6. All the iFixit driver sets include Pentalobe 5 drivers. ================ iFixit tiene varios kits de herramientas para desmontar MacBook / MacBook Airs / MacBook Pro. La mayoría de los MacBook Airs realizados desde 2010 el uso de Pentalobe 5 tornillos para fijar la caja inferior; iPhones usan Pentalobe 2, mientras que los MacBook Pro utiliza Pentalobe 6. Todos los conjuntos de controladores de iFixit incluyen Pentalobe 5 destornilladores. 54 Bit Driver Kit Pro Tech Toolkit Pro Tech Screwdriver Set
  • Answer to: Installing ssd in lower bay or upper bay?

    The old model (install SSD in HD slot, transfer old HD to second slot) is a holdover from an earlier era, when minis came with optical drives installed in the second slot. Up through 2011, when optical drives started to disappear from Macs, the second slot was often a much slower 3Gbps SATA II slot. Installing a 6Gbps SATA III HD or SSD in that SATA II slot could often create a lot of problems, since the drives were often unable to scale down to the slower bus speed. You'll see a lot of discussion on iFixit about the issue involving 2011 Unibody MacBook Pros, which are notorious for acting up when there's a SATA III drive installed in a SATA II bay. But by 2012, optical drives had been removed from all but one Macintosh model (the Mid 2012 13" Unibody MacBook Pro). All 2012+ Macs with two or more SATA busses have 6Gbps SATA III on both busses. As far as the specs are concerned, either drive should work in either bus at full speed. What's more, minis from 2011 onward are specifically designed for two SATA driv...
  • Answer to: What can I do to improve the performance?

    There are easy do-it-yourself upgrades that will give you a speed boost. 1) Install more RAM. A Mid 2012 13" MBP can use up to 16GB total. You generally get better performance if you install RAM in matched pairs (2x4GB, 2x8GB). 2) Install faster storage. In order of increasing speed, your options for replacing your stock 5400 RPM hard drive are: 3.1) 7200 RPM hard drive (examples: Seagate Momentus XT, WDC Black) 3.2) SSHD (platter HD with large solid-state cache) 3.3) SSD 3.4) the price-per-GB of these drives increases with the speed; traditional hard drives (250GB-750GB in 7200 RPM) are cheapest, hybrid drives (128GB-1.5TB) are more expensive, solid-state drives (128GB-1TB) are most expensive. The installation guides are available from iFixit, as are several of the replacement parts; the parts are also available from a variety of online retailers. Graphics applications benefit from more RAM, since they allow you to open more/larger images without swapping out to comparatively slower virtual memory. But Photo...
  • Answer to: Is it possible to replace the DVD with a blu-ray drive?

    Yes you can, but there's a limited range of Blu-Ray drives that fit the bay correctly. You'll need a 9.5mm slot-load SATA drive, such as the Panasonic/Matsushita UJ-267 CD/DVD/BR burner. Most of the laptop-style bare drives available are both 12.7mm and tray-load, and won't fit the iMac at all. Assuming that your internal SuperDrive still works acceptably, it might make more sense to buy (or assemble) an external Blu-Ray player, and connect to your iMac through USB. OWC carries several Blu-Ray players/burners, in both laptop and desktop sizes. This helps you avoid the risk of pulling the display out of the iMac case. Remember that Apple has never released a Blu-Ray player application; they have never modified DVD Player for Blu-Ray playback. There are a variety of commercial Blu-Ray player apps, most of which are around $30 (Leawo Blu-Ray Player, Aurora Mac Blu-ray Player and Macgo Mac Blu-ray Player are the ones I've paid for; they often come cheaper as part of software bundles, and Leawo does giveaways some...
  • Answer to: SSD losing space day by day

    Have you restarted your computer since the problem began? As Dan mentions, the computer caches a variety of temporary files as it runs; the temp files are deleted when the computer shuts down. The longer you run without restarting, the more space will be occupied by these various cached files.
  • Answer to: Cost for repairing screen

    That depends on: 1) which of the five generations of 13" MacBook Pro Retina you have 2) what your source for a replacement display is 3) whether you're doing the replacement work yourself, or hiring someone else to do it As you'll see in the upper right corner of this page, you've misidentified the computer as a Unibody 15" MacBook Pro. If you would provide the last four numbers of your serial number or the EMC number (both printed on the bottom case), we can identify your model correctly and give you better answers. In the meantime... 13" MacBook Pro Retinas have been through five generations over three years. There are three different display models, which work in different generations of laptop: 2012-2013, 2013-2014, and 2015. iFixit currently has inventory of the first two generations, but none for the new 2015 Broadwell MBP; inventory of the new display will increase as these models age. MacBook Pro 13" Retina MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Late 2012/Early 2013) Display Assembly MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display L...


  • MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Lower Case Replacement

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

  • When reinstalling the battery connector/cable, placement of the connector is critical. If the connector isn't positioned accurately, contact with the battery terminals won't be completed. The battery connector cover will help you align the connector, but there will still be a little leeway as you screw the cover down. Position the battery first, to adjust the connector's position; then remove the battery and tighten the cover screws down. You may even want to try plugging the computer into the AC charger before completing the cover attachment, to ensure that battery is charging and the connector is correctly positioned.