Guides I've Contributed To

Completed Guides



  • Answer to: I need to buy a new case my have had a bump

    It sure is possible, depending on where the damage is and which part you mean: MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Lower Case - Apple Part #922-9064, 922-9447, 922-9779, 923-0103 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody (Early 2011/Late 2011/Mid 2012) Upper Case - Apple Part #661-5871, 661-6595, 661-6075 If the dent is on the display assembly rather than the lower case, you might want to keep the dented display as long as the display still works. Unibody MBP display assemblies are usually sold as complete units; the back case and bezel for the display assembly are fairly rare as separate parts. Disassembling a Unibody display assembly is an ugly job; don't do it if you don't have to... If you need to replace the entire display assembly after a video failure, that part is also available: MacBook Pro 13" Unibody (Early 2011/Late 2011) Display Assembly - Apple Part #661-5868
  • Answer to: New RAM not responding.

    To add specifics to trodriguez's point: You're using RAM that's two generations newer than your computer was designed for. A Mid 2010 MBP uses PC3-8500 DDR3 RAM (1066 MHz); you've installed PC3-12800 DDR3 RAM (1600 MHz). The first generation of MBP that used the faster RAM was the Mid 2012 generation. Sometimes RAM can scale down to work over a slower bus, but it's not a sure thing. Your best bet is to get the PC3-8500 RAM your machine is designed to use. iFixit doesn't carry 8GB SODIMMs in this speed, but OtherWorld Computing has a 16GB kit for your generation. I'd check with the retailer you got your current RAM from first, and see what the charge will be to swap it for the correct speed.
  • Answer to: do all logicboards (i5, i7) fit into any 13" unibody non-retina

    Can you post some kind of link confirming the existence of an Apple "A1282"? Perhaps a photograph of the bottom case of the laptop we're discussing? Because neither Apple's support website, nor EveryMac. nor Mactracker lists an A1282 at all. The closest thing I can find in the 2011 time period you're talking about is the A1286 15" Unibody MacBook Pro. The 13" Unibody MacBook Pros are all listed as A1278, from Mid 2009 until today. The model number identifies the form factor; it doesn't identify the logic board inside the case. Logic boards may differ radically from one generation to another, with different screw placements/connectors/power requirements/port configurations and so on. The A1278 13" Unibody MacBook Pro is particularly troublesome in this regard, as Apple stupidly re-used the A1278 model number from the Late 2008 Unibody Macbook (Aluminum), which had wildly different parts and capabilities. A much more reliable way to ID the generation of your Mac (and not merely the enclosure) is to use the Mode...
  • Answer to: What do you advise me repair kit to repair multiple devices?

    It depends on what you want to fix, and whether you're trying to do replacements of entire modules, or solder individual failed components. The iFixit driver kits include most of the bits you're likely to need for computer/cellphone/consumer electronics repair. They include Apple-specific bits for the Pentalobe screws Apple uses to keep us out of the new iPhone, laptops and iPad cases; also the Tri-wing screws Apple uses to trap the batteries in the cases. 54 Bit Driver Kit Pro Tech Toolkit The Pro Tech toolkit adds some extras to the 54 Bit set, including plastic and metal spudgers/pry tools, tweezers, suction cup, ruler, anti-static strap, an X-Acto knife and a cloth roll to bundle it all up in. For people who don't like interchangeable bits, there's the Pro Tech Screwdriver Set, which includes drivers for the more commonly used screws. There's also a large Universal Bit Kit, which has both the smaller drivers for electronics repair and large bits for bigger things, such as household appliances. A wise prec...
  • Answer to: How do I replace hard drive?

    It depends on which of the twelve generations of MacBook you have. The twelve generations cover nine years, and have four major incompatible technical architectures: 1) A1181 - white/black plastic case, Intel Core Duo/Core2 Duo CPUs, DDR2 RAM, Intel/NVidia graphics, SuperDrive optical drive (2006-2009) 2) A1278 - aluminum Unibody case, Intel Core2 Duo CPU, DDR3 RAM, NVidia graphics, SuperDrive optical drive (2008-2009) 3) A1342 - white plastic Unibody case, Intel Core2 Duo CPUs, DDR3 RAM, NVidia graphics, SuperDrive optical drive (2009-2011) 4) A1534 - aluminum Unibody case, Retina display, Intel Core M CPU, Intel HD graphics (April 2015->) As you can see, each architecture has its own technique for installing/removing drives. MacBook Core Duo Hard Drive Replacement MacBook Core 2 Duo Hard Drive Replacement MacBook Unibody Model A1278 Hard Drive Replacement MacBook Unibody Model A1342 Hard Drive Replacement The new Retina MacBook (released March 2015) does not currently have a drive replacement guide, but the...
  • Answer to: Can I change my Mac's complete upper and lower casing?

    Yes, you can swap out the bottom case and upper case assemblies on a 2014 Retina. But it probably won't be cheap. iFixit has replacement guides for both assemblies. The replacement parts are both listed, but marked as "Not for sale"; presumably, these product pages are placeholders for a future time when iFixit has inventory from recycled computers. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Lower Case Replacement MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Late 2013/Mid 2014) Lower Case MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Upper Case Assembly Replacement MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Late 2013/Mid 2014) Upper Case Assembly In the meantime, the parts listings provide us with the Apple part numbers for the two assemblies (Bottom case: 923-0670; Upper Case: 661-8311). This gives us the ability to conduct a wider search for those part numbers, such as eBay/Amazon/other online retailers. PinnacleMicro stocks the bottom case, and both new and refurbished top cases. PowerbookMedic also has bottom and upper cases. All the various upper cases...
  • Answer to: Are the battery power connector for sale?

    In fact, iFixit has the top case+keyboard+trackpad+battery assembly in stock right now, for $525. has several elements of the 13" Retina battery system available. Similar to iFixit, the battery is not cheap: Battery Bridge Board (I think this is roughly what you mean by "power connector". If so, it's a lot cheaper than a replacement battery, which you probably also need) Battery Mounting Bracket Late 2013-Mid 2014 Retina Top case w/Battery Once we've found a retailer carrying the part, we can use the Apple part number we find there (Apple #661-8154) to search for additional options: NewEgg/used - $379 This vendor does not mention a battery, but the photo of the item clearly includes the battery. - $156-257 used New assemblies ( both from eBay and from online retailers) appear to be coming from Chinese vendors at prices ranging from US$600 on up. I have located one vendor who carries used A1502 battery assemblies without the top case -
  • Answer to: Where do I fund the model Number?

    What you're describing is a computer that starts up, but doesn't get to a desktop. If you have a bootable external hard drive, a system install DVD or a bootable flash drive, you can boot off one of those and get to an About This Mac screen from there. The operating system on the substitute drive has to be the same OS as the one that originally came with the computer, or later. If your computer has a FireWire or Thunderbolt port, you can connect it to another Mac and boot it as a target drive. Target Drive mode lets another computer talk to your internal drive as if it was an external drive, or vice versa; you start the hard-drive-only computer up while holding down the T key, and its hard drive will appear on the other computer's desktop. If you boot your troubled Mac off some other Mac's drive, you'll still be able to get the model information for your own computer from About This Mac/System Profiler. You'll also be able to run Disk Utility on your internal hard drive, which will no longer be the boot drive...
  • Answer to: MacBook Pro charging port replacement

    Well, yeah, maybe. But the one you need depends on the specific model of your computer, which you haven't told us. 1) 13": 2.1) Early 2011 - MagSafe DC-In Board, Installation Guide 2.2) Late 2011 - MagSafe DC-In Board, Installation Guide 1) 15": 2.1) Early 2011 - MagSafe DC-In Board, Installation Guide 2.2) Late 2011 - MagSafe DC-In Board, Installation Guide 1) 17": 2.1) Early/Late 2011 - Installation Guide iFixit doesn't currently stock the MagSafe board for 2011 17" MBPs - only 2009 ones. PowerbookMedic lists a variety of MagSafe boards, and specifies a different Apple part number for 2010 17" MagSafe boards (922-9288), but does not list either a part number or an item for the 2011 17" laptops. It's possible that a 2010 MagSafe board will fit, but it's hard to know without more information. If you'll look at the About This Mac screen and identify the actual model of MacBook Pro we're talking about, we'll be able to offer more help.
  • Answer to: I don't think this is the correct computer

    I've corrected the model link. I'm also posting links for the correct battery and for the replacement guide. It's a fairly easy swap, but it does require a specialized tool: the Y1 tri-wing screwdriver. Apple uses these weirdo screws to hold your battery to the computer chassis, in order to prevent you from doing exactly what you're about to do. The tri-wing screwdriver is available from iFixit as a standalone screwdriver, and as a bit in their screwdriver kits. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Battery Replacement MacBook Pro 15" Unibody (Mid 2009/Mid 2010) Replacement Battery Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver Essential Electronics Toolkit 54 Bit Driver Kit Pro Tech Toolkit 4mm Screwdriver Bits The Mid 2009 and Mid 2010 generations use the same battery. For future reference: The model number isn't a great way to ID your computer. The model ID (A1286, in your case) identifies the form factor, rather than a specific generation of the model. A1286 is the model number for every 15" Unibody MacBook Pro (October 2008-Octobe...


  • MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Lower Case Replacement

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

  • MacBook Unibody Model A1278 Battery Connector Replacement

    When reinstalling the battery connector/cable, placement of the connector is critical. If the connector isn't positioned accurately, contact with the battery terminals won't be completed. The battery connector cover will help you align the connector, but there will still be a little leeway as you screw the cover down. Position the battery first, to adjust the connector's position; then remove the battery and tighten the cover screws down. You may even want to try plugging the computer into the AC charger before completing the cover attachment, to ensure that battery is charging and the connector is correctly positioned.