Teardowns I've Worked On
Guides I've Contributed To
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The full long Story about the problem. I need a new mini toggle switch for the Boston Acoustics Micro90pv subwoofer. They won...
I need to find the specs for a Boston Acoustics Micro90pv subwoofer amp. I need a new power switch and Polarity switch. Both ...
Because your system is most likely out of warrenty, why not open it up, remove all the dust, and apply AS5?
So far looking good. I'm commenting as you are making this teardown.
okay teardown. My only advice is DON'T use the flash. I can barly see some of the pictures because of it. Use natural sun lighting or even a set of lamps spaced approaply. instead. Other than that, good attempt.
Why would you ever need to remove the heatsink? Again I don't understand how you rate these on repairability. They aren't meant to be fixed. Would you like for EVERY IC to be socketed, every component to be through hole for easy soldering, a bottom cover held on with screws?
I mean a heatsink is a piece of metal. It isn't going to fail.
That is a thermal pad, not thermal paste.
Quote from DAR:
I have been repairing iPhones now for 2 years. This procedure is a waste of time and money, spend the extra 15 bucks and get the glass with the digitizer, you don't have to spend 3 hours to replace your broken glass because you spent 2 of them separating glass from glass. by the way, good luck getting the new glass on with out a scratch or piece of lint/dust in between.
This guide is how to separate the glass from the frame. The glass has the digitizer on it. We aren't separating glass from glass.
The Phone's touch screen will work with out a sim. You must have installed it wrong. My iPhone and brothers iPhone, both are 3G. Work fine w/o a sim card installed.
Quote from cochranb:
It took me only about 10 minutes to do the entire replacement procedure. I had to wiggle in the speaker end (where the 3 cables are) several times to get the display to seat perfectly, but all is well. The new unit looks great!
At this point, before turning on the device to test it, you might want to make sure the sim card is installed. Otherwise the 3G will boot up, and you will get a message "No SIM card installed", and the screen will be locked. Worse, you can't power off because the screen is locked and the power-off slider can't be moved to the right.
I just installed this unit for a friend's phone, but don't have the sim card here -- it is with the friend. I hope that replacing the sim card with the 3G powered on will work out okay.
Weird. I've taken all of my 3G apart. My 8 replacements, and my 2 3GS apart. all were 16GB, and what your describing has never happened to me.
Quote from postnospam:
CAUTION. If your phone was assembled the same as my 16GB 3G, the cable labeled 4 in step 3 is glued to the back of your LCD not simply connected to the main board as shown in the instructions. There is no way you can open the phone 45 degrees as shown without ripping the cable as I did.
I now need to replace the dock connector as well.
Some people apply a little dab in the center, and then install the heat sink. It spreads it evenly unlike a finger, and is much cleaner. I use this method on cpus with a heat spreader, and ones with the bare die. You can also apply a dab, and use a razor blade to spread it evenly too. The finger method tends to leave air bubbles, and doesn't spread evenly. I use Arctic Silver 5, but sometimes have to spread it with a blade as it is so thick. I hear that Arctic Cooling MX-3 is suppose to be better. I hate that AS5 can be electrically conductive. It makes me nervous that i will short something out. I hate AS5 200 hour curing time. MX-3 is claimed to not need any curing time, and not electrically conductive, So if you apply the amount that Apple did with the 2006 MacBooks, you will still have a working computer. If apple applied AS5, like they applied thermal paste in 2006, I bet the laptop would be DOA.
Just my little thoughts on thermal compound.
Quote from jonahwy:
Swapping out the heatsink on my 15" MBP seemed to go fine. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. My computer had been shutting down immediately and was unusable. I did some research and it sounded like the heatsink was the problem. After reassembling the computer, when I started it up, there was a little puff of smoke from the back left of the keyboard... and... no screen backlight came on.
The repair solved the problem of my computer constantly shutting down, but now I can only see my screen if I shine a bright light on it.
Does anyone know what could have happened? If the thermal compound was touching some little wire or something, could it have caused a short?
Did you use Arctic Silver? It's possible something shorted, but I'm leaning more toward a lose display cable. Try re-seating the cable.
decent teardown. Just a suggestion, use natral lightning from the sun. The camera's flash doesn't help when your that close.
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