Frank James

I am working on a iPad 2 A1395 and I can't find a replacement logic board battery connector anywhere. The top picture is...

I am working on a Samsung Tab 3 7 inch that someone did a charge port replacement on and pulled up the pad connections on...

Lewis, I have seen this on a few iPhone 6 screens. The housing is completely straight. Right? It really shows up on the black iPhone 6. I open it back up and on that side run a piece of black electrician's tape to overlap the back light. It has to be right at the top to about half way down the screen. Trashy I know- but it works and have never had one come back. Other option is you can pay to send the screen back and they will send you another one with the same problem.

Ankita, I assume you mean digitizer /LCD assembly. The connection for the digitizer and LCD is together on the S3 and S4. Connections are different. Samsung S3 has 44 connecting pins and the Samsung S4 has 40 connecting pins. Interesting that the S3 and the Note 2 FPC LCD connectors are the same but the S3 will not run the bigger Note 2 LCD. The S3 will not run the S4 LCD. https://www.sstparts.com/product.php?aId...

The front replacement glass dimensions (width and length) for the iPhone 6 and the iPhone 6S are the same. The glass for the 6/6S will both fit into a iPhone 6 LOCA/OCA refurbishment mold. What to watch out for: The thickness of the aftermarket glass varies from vendor to vendor. The home button holes may be smaller not allowing proper fit of the home button. In the early days of the iPhone 6 glass coming out some where a little longer and would not fit into the mold. Some of the 6S glass my be a little longer from time to time depending if the manufacturer has got their tooling right. The force touch is controlled by a sensor behind the back light. The glass has nothing to do with the force touch function. Though I imagine a thicker glass will have a slightly different feel(the type LOCA/OCA does make a difference on force touch). My solution: Dry fit your aftermarket screens into the mold after you receive them from your vendor. You can do this with the plastic covering on. Because you need that plastic...

Have you tried removing the lens and putting it back on? Check the gold "nubby" contacts on the side of the lens and in the body for debris and corrosion. Did you drop it on the lens face? I dropped my D90 18mm-70mm on the lens face one time and it has a hard time focusing on 18mm. All other ranges works fine.

The radiator for some models has a transmission fluid cooling system built into the radiator. There are fluid lines (tubes) that run from the transmission to the side of the radiator. This system may have a leak internally into the coolant system via the radiator. Without seeing a picture of the coolant this is my best guess. Check your transmission fluid level to see if it is low and see if it is also discolored. Check your engine oil to see if it is discolored. If the engine oil is "milky" then coolant is leaking into the oil system. Sometimes through a head gasket port that has blown. It can also be condensation build up over time depending what type of climate you live in. But that is a hopeful prayer. Best to get a mechanic on this one. -F

There should be some tie rod ends (like on a car) present under the mower in the front. There is a threaded rod with a locking nut that you turn to adjust the "toe in" adjustment. There should be videos and manuals online to help you with this. A bigger concern would be why is it out of alignment. Did you hit something hard? Did the locking nut back off? Also, make sure the tires have the right air pressure (PSI) in them. You can find this number on the sidewall of the tire. This may cause the alignment to feel off.

What model is the rice cooker? Is it a pressure cooker? Did it come with a manual? Usually the error codes are in the back of the manual or you can search them online. I did find this: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/265330/...-Hd4746-06.html?page=14#manual Doesn't look good.

Bad power button. New one has to be micro-soldered on. After Samsung logo comes on the power button circuit is stuck closed telling the device to turn off. You can take motherboard out of device and check continuity with a multi-meter. Put leads on contacts located on the back of button and get a person to push the button. Be careful not to put the leads on the wrong place-gives a false reading. If the meter beeps (when button is depressed) and then stops when the button is released then the button is good. You need to do this a number of times because sometimes it is a intermittent problem.

Ed, It is possible that the ear speaker was damaged. It could also be misaligned with the contacts on the proximity flex. This has happened to me a handful of times and sometimes replacing the ear speaker fixes it. Assuming that it has no water damage. Try these first: -Take screen off and look at the top where the contacts meet the gold springs of the ear speaker. Sometimes if your eyes are good enough you can see if they are making good connection and have no corrosion present. -You can try to loosen the screws of the metal ear speaker plate just a little bit and try the ear speaker (this happened all the time on the iPhone 5) without actually putting the screen back in the housing. Of course be very careful not to over extend the screen flexes. -If none of that works source a new ear speaker and install. -If that doesn't work then it could be a prox flex-but i feel it is one of the above answers.

Marvin is right. If you have a test device you can test the faulty screen, maybe a friend willing to let you open theirs and try the screen. But sounds like a straight forward bad part.