David Spalding

After kicking on my over the range GE Spacemaker (circa 2002) microwave/fan, there was a pop, maybe a slight flash of light (...

If I've lost the original LG charger supplied with the Nexus Wireless Charger, can I use the charger that came with my Nexus ...

After running it at 20% and 50% for a minute or two, I heard the louder humming cycling on and off, so clearly something in the control was trying to cycle the magnatron...? Perhaps the HV cap had gone bad, or something in the control I smelled a very faint electronics burning from the area of the control, so that's what I suspect. This may be corroborated by the fact I heard a pop from the front right of the oven. At any rate, some July 4th sales of new units gave me the opportunity to get a CR top-rated unit (convection/microwave oven, much quieter) for as much as 20% or 30% off the original price, and finance for free for 12 - 18 months. As others have pointed out, sometimes it's just best to replace a defective unit with one boasting far more features and flexibility.

[edit: clarification] Your suspicion is correct, that one component going bad can lead to another failure. But your measurement of the magnatron suggests it's sound -- it depends upon the design spec variance allowed in the resistance measurement. I would try the diode, and power up the microwave with all covers in place. As others have mentioned, these appliances have very high voltage components and you can get hurt trying a DIY repair. Ensure all capacitors are discharged, you have no jewelry on, etc. If you're new to this, leave it to a professional -- the cost of a replacement is far more economical than the potential injury you can incur.

What are the indications, will it not even power on at all, or do it perform a "boot loop" where an animation just keeps running without end,...? It sounds like you were overzealous in disabling Google apps, and may likely have disabled some system services and apps that are required to run. If you can't boot into Safe Mode, you may have to reboot into the bootloader and recovery (how will differ from one phone model to another) and perform a factory reset to default settings. You will lose some or all of your data on the phone when you so do. I would not recommend disabling too many apps. If you don't want to use Google services, just don't sign in to a Google account. You can turn off certain Google account data from syncing by turning off sync in the Google account(s) screen. That way, for example, you can use Google Maps, but not sync any Gmail or Google Calendar information.

I'm not familiar with that model, but in the camera app you may need to enable the "Flash: on" mode. Most cameras operated in a "Flash: auto" mode in which the flash will only work in low light situations.

Contact the seller? Is the phone SIM-unlocked (or, are you using SIMs from the same carrier that it was sold for)?

Go into Settings, Accounts, and select your Google account. Ensure most of the items are selected for sync, like Application Data, etc. When you open the Play Store app, is your Google account indicated? You may have to log in.

You could look for a "parts queen," or a broken phone with parts that you can use, on eBay or elsewhere.

If the finish is oxidized or DLC, you can dismantle it and take it to a gunsmith. A capable gunsmith can take off some or all of the finish and redo the blueing. Or you can send it to International Watch Works in Cary , NC, they are renown for doing DLC coating on fine watches. It's not cheap, probably more than the cost of a replacement watch. If these aren't appealing, I think the DIY options presented here are your next bet. This watch won't last forever anyway, so I would think a frugal method of repair is best.

Is this really an iPhone 4? Dude, sounds like that battery is iToast. You could replace the battery, but if the phone's as cracked up as you say, perhaps it's time to retire it. [edit] And by that I don't mean to contradict the iFixit credo, but that the expense of a iPhone 4 battery replacement kit may not be justified by usefulness of the resulting repaired iPhone.

You will probably want to dismantle it and ensure it's dry inside. The button itself may be jammed, or the microswitch is jammed in the shorted (on) position. See if the problem persists with the case off and the physical button no longer contacting the microswitch.

Dragosmp: Follow instructions found online for deleting the prior battery data, the phone will then relearn the new battery’s capability.

No, the HFL only identifies itself as a headset for phone calls. I have been able to conduct "calls" via Google Hangouts on an Android phone and iOS device (iPad), though.

What are you taking about? What part of this guide is BS?

Wow, why did you do that?? You've removed the operating system components that your phone needs to run, it should be no surprise that it is bricked. Have you tried to boot into bootloader?

How to recover, if you can, depends upon the model. You'll need to ask a question in the specific topic forum for your phone hardware. If you cannot even boot to the bootloader to run fastboot, you probably need a suitably equipped phone repair shop or factory service center to reflash the phone at the hardware level.

Then why not take some pics and update the steps with your discovered oversights?! Telling us "Here There Be Errores" does no one any good. Harumph.

Um. You have a teardown that is not the iFixit official teardown, but has the same title, and links to your offsite blog/YT channel? Isn't that a bit misleading?

I think you should rename this Guide so as to not create confusion with the iFixit article with the same title. My 2¢.

It would be helpful to label the NFC and Qi wireless charging spring contacts. I've read multiple reviews from buyers of refurbed Nexus 5s that state the wireless charging doesn't work until they gently press down on the back working up towards the camera and -- snap! Something snaps into place, and the Qi flows as it should. ;) I can't quite tell from the images what is snapping into place on the back. :(

Because of the conventional spring bars used, you can use heavy duty dive watch spring bars with a nylon NATO or RAF style strap. Nylon straps allow for quick style changes, as well as increased comfort in hot seasons. When they're soiled or wet, simply thread the dirty strap out, and wash in the laundry (sock bag recommended) while using a different strap.

Nylon straps are available from military/LE and watch enthusiast sites. Maratac (US) and Phoenix (UK) are among the better manufacturers of economical straps. Don't forget the style of nylon strap that Sean Connery wore a Rolex 6538 on in Goldfinger (1963). (Omega recently introduced high end NATO style straps including an anachronistic, double-stripe grey "Bond" strap for Spectre.)

You might think using needle point tweezers are fine, but really to remove a strap without damaging the strap ends or gouging the lugs you want to use a quality springbar tool. Bergeon makes the finest, Otto Frei and others sell house brand equivalents.

The spring bar tool is a very thin widgy bar with a small notch in it to catch the shoulders of the typical spring bar. You can then pivot the tool to retract the pin (tip) of the bar from the hole in the lugs and release it. To minimize damage to the bar, release both pins from each end then remove the strap from the back.

If you mean a case/cover, the dimensions are the same. So cases for the 5 and 5s will fit the SE.

Was that your question? :}