You will definitely need a service manual for this vehicle to do this job. A Haynes or Clymer manual covering this vehicle may have the info you need; otherwise , you'll be looking at investing in a factory service manual. They're out there if you do an internet search. Here's a link for a Haynes manual covering your vehicle. https://haynes.com/en-us/ford/ranger/2000-2011 Good luck!
Without knowing more, I would unplug the machine and remove the cover panel under the door (3 quarter inch drive hexhead sheet metal screws just at the floor, or, if the washer is on a pedestal, behind the pedestal drawer) to inspect the innards of the washer. There are 3 or four shock absorbers between the drum and the bottom or side of the washer. Grab each and make sure they aren't broken or loose. look for any broken parts on the bottom of the washer. If everything is intact there, you will have to remove the top of the washer and check the 2 large springs on either side of the drum to see if they are broken or stretched. Instructions for removal of the top can be found online. Not that hard if you have a little mechanical ability. Parts are also available on line and are not terribly expensive. Good luck!
I would get some waterless hand cleaner like “Goop,” “Permatex,” or “Purple Power” and, following the instructions on the package, including trying it on a hidden area, rub a gob of the cleaner into the stain and allow it to penetrate for 10-20 minutes. Then wash the jacket as instructed on the jacket label. This should work whether it is petroleum based grease (like axle grease) or organic grease (like cooking oil or lard type grease. It’s possible you may have to do it twice. Good Luck!
According to page 6 of the Dewalt Nailer DWMIIIFN user manual, which is available on line, “Lubrication - Frequent, but not excessive, lubrication is required for best performance. Use Air Tool Lubricant, Mobil Velocite #10, or equivalent. Do not use detergent oil or additives as these lubricants will cause accelerated wear to the seals and bumpers in the tool, resulting in poor tool performance and frequent tool maintenance. Only a few drops of oil at a time is necessary. Too much oil will only collect inside the tool and will be noticeable in the exhaust cycle. I did an internet search <Dewalt Nailer DWMIIIFN manual>. Easy to find.
I am not a seamster (seamstress?). I have a parka that I did not pay a lot for but I really like it. After about 20 years of use, I blew out a seam on it. I could’ve tossed it but they don’t make ‘em anymore and it’s still in otherwise pretty good shape. I took it to a local tailor shop and they did a very nice job of fixing it for a very reasonable price. You have Patagonia snowdrifter bibs (which I looked up on line) worth about 350 bucks. Crotches are not easy to fix for the average person (don’t even ask how I know this!). I strongly recommend finding a local tailor to fix these right. You won’t regret not having tape in your crotch! Just my opinion. Good luck!
Try Amazon. <https://www.amazon.com/Joyparts-Replacement-Compatible-Blender-QB3000SSW/dp/B08HWBJFX2/ref=sr_1_11?crid...-11> The page says it fits BL830CB.
There is an adjustment for the drive cable described in the owner’s manual. You may need to take up a little on it. If you don’t have the manual, it is available online by searching “Toro model #21378 owner manual”.
According to the Makita Hammer Drill HM0870CQ instruction manual (available online in pdf), when the brushes are changed, the grease should also be changed. This seems to be a common feature with demolition hammers. Also, if the tool was stored in a cold area, it may have to be run for five or more minutes to warm up the grease enough for the tool to hammer. If the tool ran , there was probably nothing wrong with the brushes; the grease was either cold or depleted. Do an internet search of <Makita Hammer Drill HM0870CQ instruction manual> . This will probably tell you all you need to know.
I'm with ya up 'til step 2. The right hand back of my camera has controls (zoom in/out, trash/list/info, right/left/up/down, etc. on it and no visible screws as in your step 3 picture. It appears that another panel has been removed to expose these screws. Can you elaborate?
I'm with ya up 'til step 2. The right hand back of my camera has controls (zoom in/out, trash/list/info, right/left/up/down, etc. on it and no visible screws as in your step 3 picture. It appears that another panel has been removed to expose these screws. Can you elaborate?