Adam O'Camb

Hi Lori, sorry to hear the adhesive is being extra stubborn! If reheating and reapplying the iOpener isn’t working, you can try heating the edge with a hairdryer or heat gun. That way you can get more heat onto the edge faster, but be very careful not to overheat the battery inside.

If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.

Hi Stacy, the assembly that includes the wireless charging coil also houses antennas related to NFC and other phone functions. Most things might still work if you left the coil out, but I definitely wouldn’t recommend removing it.

You should be able to back up the data on your phone to a cloud service before you remove the motherboard, and then restore that data after you replace the board. There are multiple options, but Samsung has their own that should be the easiest to use if you already have a Samsung account.

Hi Scott! This is just a teardown, and is not meant to be used as instructions to disassemble anything. If you’re looking for detailed opening instructions, check out our RAM replacement guide.

Hi Zachary! This is not a guide, and isn’t meant to be used to repair a device. Teardowns are just meant to be a look at our first attempt to disassemble something, rather than explaining the best way to replace a part like a guide would. In the interest of giving readers a genuine look at our experience, we like to leave teardowns as they are, mistakes and all.

Hi Chris, the adhesive should be applied to the back cover first. Make sure you remove the camera plate first and apply the adhesive before reinstalling the plate. I’ve changed the guide to explain that better.

I’d recommend precut adhesive designed for the rear cover. If that’s not available, thin, hi-bond double sided tape like 1 mm wide Tesa 61395 tape will work well.

It’s possible, but pretty hard to do. There’s no guide for this specific MacBook, but here’s a guide for removing the keyboard in a 2013 13” Macbook Pro, and a teardown of a 2018 MacBook keyboard. I definitely wouldn’t rely on the guide or teardown to remove this keyboard, but the processes should at least be similar enough to give you an idea of what’s entailed. For further information you might check our answers forum—chances are there’s someone there that knows more about this repair. Good luck!

We don’t have official instructions out for the earpiece speaker, but it’s only accessible underneath the glass panel and antenna assembly on the back of the phone so removing it is a bit different. After removing the motherboard you would have to lift this flex cable from the back of the phone, just enough to separate it from the adhesive holding it down. Then you can carefully pry up the glass panel, and remove antenna assembly and the earpiece speaker underneath. You’ll probably need an iOpener, suction cup, and opening picks to remove the panel and everything underneath—they’re all glued down pretty solidly.