Kevin

Hi there, I have a question regarding the Sony Xperia Z. The Xperia Z seems to always notify me that it has a headphone conne...

Hi there! I have a question regarding a MacBook Pro A1278 from a customer. The customer said the macbook did not start from o...

Hi there! I am having a problem with an ipad 4 that came back for repair after a few weeks claiming it suddenly started ghost...

I faced the exact same problems with my new brand new s4 module from a official Samsung dealer. I could secure the whole frame, but once i secured the right top part of the midframe (looking from behind) it would short out and not even boot the whole phone anymore. The phone was a i9506 and the module a i9505. I am not sure if this has anything to do with it, but i do know what caused it. When i taped off the black screw securing the motherboard right under the part of the frame that shorts the display the whole problem went away. I tried it without the black screw and it also does not short out. I believe the black screw helps alot with positioning accuracy from your GPS, so if it is not a solution to leave out the black screw for good, u will have to kapton tape it. To make it a little bit more clear, i am talking about this black screw: Good luck! :)

Hi Jan, Did you try to restore/DFU mode? I cannot play the video properly so im just asking, does it pop a blue screen just before the bootloop starts again?

Hi Nitish, Are you sure auto-brightness is not activated? Perhaps energy saving is enabled? To test everything with your screen i suggest you launch the test menu and see if everything works there, there is a special button called "dimming" there to test as such; -> go to your "keypad" (as if you want to call somebody) -> Type in: *#0*# It should start the test menu instantly. Let us know what the tests do :)

Hi Matt, Best thing to do in these cases to prevent corrosion in the future is to leave the motherboard in a alcohol based bath (at least 92% but preferably 96% or higher) These 96% alcohol bottles are usually sold by pharmacies for not too much. Strip off the metallic chip casing and preferably use a toothbrush first with some of the alcohol to scrub the whole motherboard. After that you can safely fully submerge the motherboard into the alcohol and leave it there for at least 24 hours. After the 24 hours, get it out and heat it up just a little bit so that it dries and vaporates. This will prevent the water from sticking there wich you would find out perhaps even after a week or 4 when it is too late. Hope it helps, let us know :)

Hi Michael, First of all, i would not recommend the upgrade since the laptop isnt worth it anymore in my opinion. It seems pretty outdated and i would invest the money in a newer one. Unless you do want to proceed though, it is 100% possible to do so. U would need a WSXGA+ CCFL 30 pin screen. Make sure it is CCFL or the connector will not fit. Hope this helps you out!

Hi there, It might be a software issue, a problem that has been haunting Apple for a long time now. What you can try (and make sure you follow the steps as explained) is this: -Power down your macbook -Remove the magsafe connector -Remove the battery -Hold your power button in for at least 5 sec -Reconnect the magsafe connector -Wait till the magsafe turns green -Wait at least 5 sec -Put the battery back in -Start the macbook Let me know if it helps or we can try other solutions.

Hi there, As far as i know also the 5c has the problem that when you put back the shielding that goes over the flex connectors mounting the digitizer and lcd and you reinsert the screws wrongly you can damage your motherboard to a point where it is almost irrepairable. There are people that have been succesfull at repairing this but it takes great skill to not mess it up even more. What happends when you mess up the screws there is that one screw is longer then the other one, it penetrates the motherboard damaging the micron traces that are beneath it. It takes a microscope to actually see it through the screw mounts. So if you are pretty sure you did not mess up the screws by placing the bottom left on bottom right and vice versa then something else is going on here, do let us know if this isnt the case, because 9 out of 10 times when a screen has been replaced and the blue screen starts after the fix this will be the issue and you will basicly have a useless brick.

Hi Devin, It could be multiple things, but if your wifi worked before the fix it might not be as bad as it can get (wifi chip) First thing to do is to go over the connector on the bottom leading to the docking. These things sometimes break when you disconnect them. It does not happen often with Samsung phones but it can still happen. The cable we are talking about is this one: It should be on the right side of the back, make sure this cable is in order and make sure the connection is solid on the docking part. If this is all ok it might be software related but we can get into that part later. Let us know!

Hi Rowdy, Could you give us some more information please? What do you mean with losing internet and having to restart, does it drop the signal making you have to reconnect to it or does it completely dissapear saying there is no adapter/connection available? Also, what type of laptop do you have? (Model nr)

Hi Hurley, As far as i know with the knowledge of the same model but from Packard Bell this laptop has sort of a "unibody" like a macbook. U would have to remove the complete top cover by removing the screws sitting at the bottom and lift the top cover up as a whole to get to the keyboard. Mind you that most of the times these top covers are extra mounted with clips so it might take a bit of effort to remove it. I would suggest to start from the front (the side of the touchpad) and move forward towards the back. Hope this helps you in any way.