My Favorite Guides

Completed Guides


  • iPad Wi-Fi Teardown

    I wish Apple would enable FM reception, or a least broadcasting to a local (car) radio. Anyone know of an iPhone hack?

  • MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Upper Case Replacement

    Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.

  • MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Logic Board Replacement

    When putting the logic board back in place, it's easier to angle the mic down in it's place as you are placing the board in, rather than after the board is seated.

  • MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Logic Board Replacement

    When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in). For 3 days after replacing a top case, my MacBook Pro 13" wouldn't start up. I thought the main logic board was fried too. However, reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable again, this time perhaps 1mm farther in, and it started up again! I did the same for the "keyboard backlight ribbon cable" (i.e. reinserted it just to make sure). Really not sure which completed the circuit so is would start, but I suspect the keyboard ribbon cable.

  • PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1-1.67 GHz Keyboard (1-1.5 GHz) Replacement

    When reinserting the ribbon cable, the cable goes UNDER the black "thin piece" connector, not between it and the white part of the connector. I struggled for 10 minutes to get the ribbon between them, but it wouldn't go in far enough for a confident connection. I then realized it goes under the black part.

  • MacBook Air Models A1237 and A1304 Hard Drive Replacement

    I skipped the step (6c) of prying the audio out ribbon cable connector board off the hard drive bracket (& disconnecting it), since it doesn't come off real easily, and I didn't want to damage it. It only requires a little more care when removing the HD from it's bracket if you skip step 6c.

  • MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Hard Drive Replacement

    Tape is on the top and bottom of the HD.

  • MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Battery Replacement

    Quote from gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

  • MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Battery Replacement

    Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

  • MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Battery Replacement

    Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" ( Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)