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I acquired a used Samsung LN40B530P7F display. The television had been working perfectly for several years. According to...

Apple has announced that there will be a second hardware revision of the iPhone 6 to address other issues (flash storage). It would not surprise me to see undisclosed (perhaps internal) enhancements to the design. However, anything you can currently buy is the original design and I would not expect Apple to give credence to the "bendgate" design flaws by announcing a fix. My recommendation would be to invest in a rigid case if you use your device in a way that is prone to bending. Alternatively, there are plenty of people ready to buy your old one when you move to a different product. Apple isn't the only (or even the leader) in the ginormous fablet space anymore.

Important to note that you CAN disable KEXT-signing to enable third-party SSD TRIM. While this is undesirable and an additional security risk, it is no less secure than previous versions of the OS that didn't enforce the feature. I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for Apple to support your third-party SSD. They are going to use this "security feature" to extract additional licensing and control over the hardware. The current Apple direction seems to be to "appliance-iffy" everything and kill the third-party accessory market even in the Macintosh space.

I have used Samsung 840 and 840 EVO drives in various models between mid-2010 and late-2012 (non-retina) without any issues in the optical bay.

Thank you oldturkey03. At your suggestion, I tore down the display a little further. This particular model is upside down from most of the examples I've seen. The t-con and tabs are actually on the bottom and housed inside an outer steel frame requiring the removal of the entire bezel and a portion of the interior frame. Once I got into the display to actually see the tabs, the issue became obvious. It looks like a small cap exploded making a mess of the contacts. There is a green tint to the mess which implies that the copper has corroded some, though I'm unsure if that is the case or if that's just the dielectric material from capacitor. My thought is that IS probably fixable but a little beyond my skillset. I'd like to take a stab at it but I've screwed myself over in the past using inappropriate cleaning products on delicate devices (contact cleaner WILL destroy nearby plastic). The cap is attached to traditional solid board with good contacts, so I think I can repair that part. Does anyone have...