Samsung Dishwasher Not Draining

Make sure that the residential drain is not clogged, as this can cause the dishwasher drain to clog. You would probably already have some suspicion that the drain was clogged, but you might also have a drain that was slow.

• Fill the sink and make sure it drains freely when you release the water.

If it works, go on to the next item.

Many models have a float disc in the bottom of the wash tub that senses water level. If it gets jammed in the up or floating position, the dishwasher will often have an error code and may stop draining before it is empty.

• Check if there is any debris or detergent buildup that causes the float to stick in the up or full position.

Older models (400,700,800 series) will have a circulating pump impeller that is underneath the filter located on top of the round sump. The impeller wheel can become clogged with debris and refuse to pump, which may affect draining even though it isn’t the drain pump. The passages associated with this can also become clogged with food debris or grease. Take note of where the screws come from as you remove them.  Here’s a link to a helpful video. If the impeller is ok, or your model doesn’t have one, move to the next step.

NOTE: You will need to pull the dishwasher out from under the counter in order to perform the next several checks.

You should have the following tools and items:

• A straight slot screwdriver,
• A #2 Phillips screwdriver,
• A pair of slip-joint pliers will also be helpful for disconnecting the hoses.
• A ½” open-end wrench or a small adjustable wrench for disconnecting the water supply hose.
• Four wire nuts, so you don’t have to reuse the old ones. Get ones that are suitable for #12-#16 wire.
• A multimeter (not essential but helpful to test components)
• A wet-dry vacuum set up to pick up water is very helpful but not essential.

You will need to do the following steps to pull the dishwasher out:

• Shut off the power to the dishwasher, either at the circuit breaker panel or by unplugging it if it is connected to an outlet under the sink. This is most critical with units that are hardwired rather than connected with a plug.
• If the dishwasher is hardwired, you will need to open the connection box (usually located at the lower right front of the dishwasher behind the kickplate)and actually disconnect the wiring.
• You will need to disconnect the water supply (usually at the left front of the dishwasher at the bottom behind the kickplate). The ½” wrench is useful here.
• You will need to disconnect the drain hose, which is best done at the location where the hose connects to the building plumbing (usually under a nearby sink at the garbage disposal).
• Remove the screws securing the dishwasher to the counter or cabinet.
  • These will either be immediately above the top rim of the dishwasher or on either side of the dishwasher in the door opening. (If the latter is the case, there may be small covers over the screws)
• Pull the unit out, making sure that nothing kinks. The next step is to check the drain path for clogs and kinks. You will also want to check the parts built into the dishwasher.

 On some models, there is a plastic module called the case break with a loop water passage formed in it. This loop has a small opening (an air vent or vacuum break to prevent siphoning) that can trap debris occasionally and slow or stop drainage. It is mounted to the side of the dishwasher, usually to the left, looking from the front, but you should check both sides. It also functions as the water inlet port.

• If you find debris, you may be able to remove it with a wire or with water from a hose.
• A wet-dry vacuum cleaner may also be used to clear the loop.

First, check the entire length of the hose for kinks or partially crushed places (like where the hose goes through a hole in your cabinets. Clogs can form at such spots.

• The drain hose to the household drain can be disconnected from the case break using the slip joint pliers to free the hose clamps.
• You can try pouring water in the hose from the garbage disposal end to try to flush out debris or use a flexible solid wire to push out debris if possible.
• Check the inlet to the garbage disposal. Clogs can form in the inlet that cling very firmly, and the dishwasher flow is not powerful enough to push them through.

Here is a link to a helpful video.  If everything is ok go on to the next possible cause.

The drain hose leading from the pump to the case break may also clog with debris. Usually, there is a check valve either in or near the hose that can jam shut or only partially open, which will not allow the unit to drain fully. In some cases, the check valve is a flap that we will cover later.

If none of these items were clogged, move on to the next step.

• Remove the filter screens and any cover over the sump and check for clogs or debris in the sump. These will prevent your machine from draining.
• Use a wet-dry vac if possible to clean out any debris in the sump.
  • If you use a vacuum, be careful of the check valve, which may be in the sump and could be damaged or sucked up by the vacuum.

If everything is ok, go on to the next possible cause.

These units have either a ball check valve in the pump discharge or a flapper check valve in the sump near the drain pump. Both can get stuck. Make sure that they are free and any debris is cleared out. Sometimes the flapper valve can get twisted, and this may cause a 5E (or blinking “Delicate” light) error (no drain) because the unit will drain too slowly, and the drain pump shuts down before it is completely drained.

A dishwasher that fails to drain but has no clogs leaves only a few items to check. At this point, listen to your dishwasher when it is trying (or should be trying) to drain.

• If you hear no noise at all, that points to a failed drain pump.
• If you hear a humming noise, it suggests a jammed drain pump.
• If you hear a sound like the pump is running (but no flow), it indicates
  • an impeller problem
  • a clog in the pump itself.

These will apply to models that have a separate drain and circulation pump arrangement. (Most models)

No drain pump noise can indicate a failed pump. It might also be too quiet a hum to hear. You will want to test the resistance of the drain pump after removing it

• The drain pump on most models is mounted so that it can be removed from the sump by just rotating the pump motor a partial turn clockwise until it releases. There will likely be a retaining tab that you will have to lift with a flat-blade driver.
• You can access it from under the dishwasher or sometimes from the side.
• Check the resistance of the pump it should be 25Ω +/- 10%

Your drain pump can be jammed by small plastic pieces. This will usually produce a hum. Sometimes a clog will allow the pump to run but prevent it from pumping.

• You can check from above in many cases by removing the sump filters and looking into the low point of the sump where the pump inlet is located.
• To make certain that the pump is not clogged, remove it as described above in the failed drain pump section.

Your pump may have a defective impeller with broken or twisted blades. It may also have come loose on its shaft. Check this carefully.

Occasionally the water level sensor will stick. We checked this earlier for units with a float-type sensor. The other type is mounted on the case break assembly and has a float that blocks light from a sensor. If the float sticks, you will get No Drain error codes (5E or blinking delicate light), and the drain system will shut down. You may find that the machine has drained fully but won’t go on in the cycle. If you find that the float is sticking, it is best to replace the water level sensor part. If the float switch is ok go on to the last item here.

When you have reached this point, the likely cause is the control board. A definite check is to see if the board puts out the proper voltage for the drain pump when the pump is supposed to be running.