LG Front Load Washing Machine Has No Water

Embarrassing, but embarrassing is also an inexpensive fix!

• First, just be sure it's all the way plugged in.
• Also, check the circuit breaker for the laundry outlet. Maybe something tripped the breaker and it wasn't reset.
• If you find one of these problems above, see if the machine has water now, if not, keep going. If so, you’re done!

Sometimes we forget that we or someone else shut the valves off. Did you just complete another repair on your machine?

• Look carefully at the valves. Do they have straight lever handles, or do they have round handles?
  • If they have lever handles, make sure the handle is in line with the outlet of the valve. They should only turn one-quarter turn as they are ball valves.
  • Below is a picture of the ball-type valves.
• If they have round handles they are likely globe, gate, or angle stop valves and will take multiple turns to turn off and on. Try turning them counterclockwise. You may also have valves that have T-type handles like an outdoor faucet. They work the same way.
  • If they turn, keep going until they stop turning. It may be tricky to get this right if your valves are upside down or the handles face to the side or away from you.
  • Angle stop valves are pictured below.
    • If they won't turn, try turning them clockwise. If they turn, they were already on, and you can just leave them alone.
      • Tip: It is a good idea to leave this type of valve about 1/8 turn from fully on. It helps to verify the actual valve position because you can just turn it toward open that little bit, and won't be as readily fooled that it is stuck in the off position
• Check both supply valves.
• A couple of longshots:
  • Check to see if the main supply to your home is on.
  • Many water heater installations will have valves for both hot and cold at the water heater. Make sure all valves at the water heater are on.

Ball Stop Valves

Angle Stop Valves

Your machine will have filter screens located in the water inlet connections of the machine. Frequently there will also be such screens on the water supply hoses. These screens can become clogged and make the water flow slowly or almost not at all. If you use well water, you may have sediment buildup and possibly mineral buildup, especially if you have hard water. Plugged filter screens are a very common cause of slow filling.

To check them do the following:

• Turn off the water supply (you know how from the step above)
• Disconnect the hoses at both ends. (Have a rag or a bucket handy to catch the water that is in the hoses.)
• Look at the filter screens on the hoses, if they are dirty, clean them thoroughly. If the screens are badly corroded, or there are heavy mineral deposits, replace them.
  • If possible remove metal screens on hoses carefully with needle nose pliers for cleaning. Some are permanent on the hose and can’t be removed. You have to replace the hose in that case.

Mineral deposits on the inlet screens may be very hard to remove and you may need to replace the screen. Vinegar may help with cleaning them and soaking the filters in a cup of vinegar for about 15 minutes (it needs time to work) can help a lot.

• Look at the inlet screens on the machine. Here is a guide that will show you how to remove them. If they are ok go on to the next step. Otherwise:
  • You can use an old soft toothbrush along with something to squirt water at the screens, to rinse away the bits. An old empty dish detergent bottle, especially with vinegar in it, is handy for this or just do it in a sink. If you see the screens are broken (plastic is prone to this), or break while cleaning or removing them, they should be replaced.
• If the screens were dirty, and you cleaned all the screens, reconnect all the hoses, turn the water back on, and test the machine. If it works, you're done! If not, go to the next step.

If your machine was filling slowly, rather than not at all, you can skip this step since it wouldn’t fill at all if the door switch or latch was bad. A quick check is to try to run a spin-only cycle. If the machine will run then the door switch is good, and you can go to the next step. If not, you should investigate the switch as it is a common failure point. If the machine senses the door is open it will not fill (for obvious reasons). Further, if the machine cannot detect that the door is locked (no lock symbol or light on the control panel, the machine will not fill.

Here is a link to a guide for replacing the door latch on an LG machine.

Among the most common problems that prevent your machine from properly filling with water, is a failed solenoid valve. You may notice that your machine may fill with only hot or only cold water or seems to fill slowly. Since you have already checked the filter screens, a slow fill is likely a valve problem.

Solenoid Assembly Unlabeled

Solenoid Assembly Labeled

Detergent Drawer Housing - Labeled

Markings-Bleach,Hot,Pre-Wash,Main Wash

On many LG machines, there are several inlet solenoids. Often there may be three separate cold solenoids (example above), one for Pre-Wash, one for Main Wash, and one for liquid bleach dispensing. The detergent drawer assembly will be labeled to show what does what. You may notice that your machine might fill properly on regular wash cycles, but might not fill on pre-wash. This is a sign that the corresponding solenoid coil or even the corresponding valve itself has failed. You will be testing the main wash solenoid first. Unfortunately, most of these valves come as a multi-valve assembly so if one has failed you must replace the whole assembly.

• Run a normal wash cycle with water using cold water only. If nothing happens you know that the main wash cold water solenoid is likely bad.
• Next, try running a pre-wash cycle. If nothing happens you know that the pre-wash cold water solenoid is likely bad.
• Next, try filling it with hot water only. If nothing happens you know that the hot water solenoid coil.
• If there are problems with filling with either hot or cold, you will need to move your machine so you can open the cabinet (case). Make sure it has been drained first as water is heavy.
• Next, shut the water off, disconnect the hoses and unplug the machine.
• Once you have it open, look at the place where the water hoses connect to the machine. This is where the solenoid valves are.

• Test each solenoid valve coil for correct resistance as shown in the example pictures above.
  • If the reading is between 800-1,500 Ω (Ohms) the coil is ok. Go on to the next step.
  • Outside this range, the coil is defective and the valve should be replaced.

If your machine is still filling slowly at this point you can rule out the pressure sensor, as it won't cause slow fill, only no fill or overfill, so skip this step if that is the case.

Here are pictures of the potential causes. Note we show both ends of the pressure hose.

Pressure Sensor and Pressure Hose

Air Dome and Pressure Hose

We look at these items next after the solenoid failure, because if there is a problem with them, the system is likely to cause the machine to display an error code, so you probably would already be alerted to them. Here are some common error codes:

• You could likely get an inlet error, IE because the machine doesn’t sense that it is filling. Given that you are having a no-fill condition this is the most likely error code.
• The pressure sensor error, PE is discussed below. (link)
• You could possibly see an overflow error, FE,  because this occurs when the machine believes that the water level is too high. It is supposed to start the pump when it detects this condition, and it won’t fill.
• You might get a drain error, OE, (the O is likely supposed to represent a D, and dE is used for a door error) because the washer isn’t detecting the water being pumped out and so it won’t try to fill.

A frequent cause of these malfunctions is the pressure hose. Any air leak, either at the fittings or from the hose itself, will cause problems.   As the pressure from the air trapped by the water bleeds off, the machine will eventually think it is empty (no pressure=no water). It may try to top itself off with additional water and could overflow. If the pressure tube that is connected to the control is plugged, trapping the higher air pressure, the control can be fooled into thinking the machine is full, and it won’t add water.

• Examine the entire hose, especially where it is clipped to the machine for breaks or cuts or to see if it has become disconnected or loosened at either end. If the hose is cracked, replace it.
• A clogged hose will also cause problems because sometimes the sensor may detect the water filling the tub, but it can't detect when it empties, as the clog won’t let the trapped air out.
  • Blow through the whole hose from the pressure sensor end with both ends disconnected.
  • If there’s a clog you can try using a wood dowel to push it through. If you can’t get the clog out, replace the hose.
• Reconnect the hose to the pressure sensor, and blow into it from the air dome end and see if you find an air leak.
• Replace the connection at the air dome and then remove the connection at the pressure sensor and blow to check the air dome connection. You are looking for loose connections.
  • If either connection leaks or is loose you can just replace the hose.
  • Alternatively, if you find a loose connection there is no harm in adding a small hose clamp rather than replacing the hose. Some machines use a small pinch clamp type as a standard part.
• If the hose checks out, move to the next step.

Another reason your machine won't fill is because it thinks it is already full. The water level is actually controlled by a pressure sensor connected to the washtub or drum. The Pressure sensor has a sensor coil connected to a diaphragm in it to monitor water level. The diaphragm moves in response to air trapped in the air dome and pressure hose by the water in the drum. As the water level rises, the trapped air increases in pressure. The machine monitors this air pressure with the sensor. These sensors don't often fail.

If the pressure sensor does fail, it will usually cause an error code on the display (PE). You can test it with a multimeter.

Check the resistance of the sensor, it should be between 21 and 23 Ω. If it's outside this range, replace it.

Depending on your model, you can also test it using buttons on the control panel to set the display to give actual frequency readings. If you can locate a service manual you can get the button combination needed. They should be pressed simultaneously. Sometimes you will need to enter a diagnostic mode. Some likely candidates:

• Soil + Delay Wash
• Wash/Rinse +Soil Level
• Wash/Rinse + Delay Wash
• Custom Program +Pre-Wash

In each case there will be a number representing a frequency displayed; the number x .1kHz is the water level frequency. When only 2 digits are available (or 0XX) then it is 2X.X kHz. A higher number indicates empty. 21.4 kHz +/-  usually full, 25.0kHz +/- usually empty. If it is below 10kHz or above 31kHz you will get a PE error.

Control Board Housing

Control Board Housing Cover Removed

If the solenoid valve coils checked out well two steps ago, at this point, no water likely means a failure with the main control board. You might want to consult an appliance technician for confirmation before replacing the board, as it is usually fairly costly.

You can run one more check if you want to be sure. If the resistance of the water valve solenoid coils is tested well, you can perform a final test to verify that the solenoid is receiving power.

Plug in your machine, but keep the top open so you have access to the solenoid valves

• A qualitative test is to feel the appropriate solenoid coils for vibration as the cycle is activated.
• A more sure test is to use a multimeter to verify 120 volts at the solenoid terminals when activated.
  • This is a more hazardous test as you will have to plug in the machine and start a cycle to see if you get the necessary voltage. If you don’t feel able to do this test, you should consult a professional.
  • This test is most easily accomplished in the Test Mode on your machine, If you don’t have that available, as mentioned, you can just start a cycle.
• If you don’t get voltage at the solenoid, you should replace the main control board.