Introduction

After an unfortunate drop down a few stairs, my beloved Sound Kick ceased to function properly. In the absence of a proper teardown guide anywhere on the the Internet, I went in blind and came out victorious.

Disclaimer: I am not a professional photographer nor do I intend to masquerade as one. All pictures were taken as I worked with minimal staging; I have neither the equipment, time, expertise, nor desire to take outstanding photographs, but regarding what I do have, in the words of the immortal Arthur Hoggett, "That'll do, pig. That'll do."

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Soundfreaq Sound Kick, use our service manual.

You're going to want to remove the battery first to minimize the risk of frying anything. Unless you actually want to fry something, in which case I would recommend this guide. Locate the battery compartment on the bottom section of the "extension chamber." Remove the four screws and pull out the battery. Now disconnect it!
  • You're going to want to remove the battery first to minimize the risk of frying anything. Unless you actually want to fry something, in which case I would recommend this guide.

  • Locate the battery compartment on the bottom section of the "extension chamber."

  • Remove the four screws and pull out the battery. Now disconnect it!

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There's a long thin piece of plastic that covers the bottom 5 screws that hold the Sound Kick frame together. Two clips on the ends and adhesive all the way across keep this piece secure. Just Pry it off! When it's off, the bottom frame screws will be exposed. Grab your trusty Phillips and get to work removing the five screws. When it's off, the bottom frame screws will be exposed. Grab your trusty Phillips and get to work removing the five screws.
  • There's a long thin piece of plastic that covers the bottom 5 screws that hold the Sound Kick frame together. Two clips on the ends and adhesive all the way across keep this piece secure. Just Pry it off!

  • When it's off, the bottom frame screws will be exposed. Grab your trusty Phillips and get to work removing the five screws.

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Black Friday
Broken doesn't stand a chance.
Warning: more prying ahead.  Choose a corner of the mesh and start prying it off. The mesh is "captured" by little pinch points all along the face of the speaker and there are dots of light adhesive for further security. Just go little by little and it will pop off fine.
  • Warning: more prying ahead. Choose a corner of the mesh and start prying it off. The mesh is "captured" by little pinch points all along the face of the speaker and there are dots of light adhesive for further security. Just go little by little and it will pop off fine.

  • I don't have a picture of the top frame screws, but it's pretty self-explanatory. There are four screws along the top of the frame that were previously hidden beneath the speaker mesh. Remove them.

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Now you can carefully pull the back frame of the speaker away from the main body. Don't fully separate them before taking care of the electrical connectors on the left, right, and top sides of the speaker. After they're all disconnected, full separate the back plate from the frame. Now you can carefully pull the back frame of the speaker away from the main body. Don't fully separate them before taking care of the electrical connectors on the left, right, and top sides of the speaker. After they're all disconnected, full separate the back plate from the frame. Now you can carefully pull the back frame of the speaker away from the main body. Don't fully separate them before taking care of the electrical connectors on the left, right, and top sides of the speaker. After they're all disconnected, full separate the back plate from the frame.
  • Now you can carefully pull the back frame of the speaker away from the main body. Don't fully separate them before taking care of the electrical connectors on the left, right, and top sides of the speaker. After they're all disconnected, full separate the back plate from the frame.

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You can now pull off the extension chamber (or, more technically, the rear slidey-outey thingy). If you own a Sound Kick, you know exactly what I'm talking about. If you don't own a Sound Kick, why are you reading this guide?! Make sure to disconnect the electrical connector on the back side of the chamber before fully removing it. Note: for reassembly, notice the geared mechanism that keeps the left and right side sliding at the same rate. Make sure to engage each side on the same tooth to maintain an even slide.
  • You can now pull off the extension chamber (or, more technically, the rear slidey-outey thingy). If you own a Sound Kick, you know exactly what I'm talking about. If you don't own a Sound Kick, why are you reading this guide?! Make sure to disconnect the electrical connector on the back side of the chamber before fully removing it.

    • Note: for reassembly, notice the geared mechanism that keeps the left and right side sliding at the same rate. Make sure to engage each side on the same tooth to maintain an even slide.

  • This is as far as I can take you! Notice the missing magnet on the backside of the left (channel) speaker. It had popped off while tumbling down the stairs. A little CA and it's good as new!

  • Reassemble in reverse order.

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michaelbeiler

Member since: 07/19/2014

21 Reputation

1 Guide authored

3 Comments

Just opened it to fix the small gear that let the back panel slide.... it went broken after a fall. Thank you for this post! It helped me a lot...

elkynhsanabria - Reply

I am trying to find the 37-301V0 20 Watt 4 ohm 30LY2C speaker for the Sound Platform 2, Model SFQ-06. I bought this over 2 years ago, and one of the speakers has failed. The company will not send me a part and only says to search the web for a replacement. I have had no luck finding it. Any suggestions.

Gary Blandino - Reply

Great job - thanks for sharing!

Jeff McLellan - Reply

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