Tools Featured in this Teardown

Introduction

first of all, I must apologize for my incorrectly written Englisch. My native language is Dutch.

So I hope that you have some fun with this guide!!

Don"t hesitate to contact me if you have questions about ths "repair / teardown" guide

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Philips Pressurised Steam Generator GC8220, use our service manual.

Image 1/1:
  • first remove the first screw of the side panel.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: now remove the upper screw in the white plastic plate. Image 2/2: now remove the upper screw in the white plastic plate.
  • note : keep a plan of the screws. or a magnetic platform.

  • now remove the upper screw in the white plastic plate.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: remind where all the cables run to.
  • remove the 2 srews and the metal plate.

  • remind where all the cables run to.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • remove the srews from the lower panel.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: click the wires loose. ( you can click it loose at the metal part of the wire,there is a little metal clip you have to push and then pull the wire out.) Image 2/2: if you put it togheter again , notice that the steam button is in his place.
  • now remove the upper blue plastic from the iron itself.

  • click the wires loose. ( you can click it loose at the metal part of the wire,there is a little metal clip you have to push and then pull the wire out.)

  • if you put it togheter again , notice that the steam button is in his place.

  • note: again, see where the wires run at.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • remove the screw at the pointed side of the iron.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • remove the bottom plate screws.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • remove the blue bottom plate and the cables

Add Comment

Image 1/2: remove the white and blue plastic case around the iron. Image 2/2: remove the red dot (rubber)
  • remove al the wires from the sockets.

  • remove the white and blue plastic case around the iron.

  • remove the red dot (rubber)

  • and remove the 2 black dot rubbers.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: tip : if you heat it up , it come loose easy
  • remove the rubber wire (red/orange color) and the metal pin arround it.

  • tip : if you heat it up , it come loose easy

  • tip : If the iron bottom plate is full of calc , you can put it in a bucket full of hot water with a lot of vinegar. (and i mean a lot!)

Add Comment

Image 1/2: remove the 3 torx srews at the iron plate. they are under the rubber footclips. Image 2/2: remove the 3 torx srews at the iron plate. they are under the rubber footclips.
  • Now we start with the biggest part of the iron. the boiler and the water reservoir unit.

  • remove the 3 torx srews at the iron plate. they are under the rubber footclips.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: remove the plastic holder with the two tubes. Image 2/3: remove the plastic from the tubes. Image 3/3: tip : remind where the black tube is put in and where the red tube is in.
  • after removing the metal plate, you see two tubes.

  • remove the plastic holder with the two tubes.

  • remove the plastic from the tubes.

  • tip : remind where the black tube is put in and where the red tube is in.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: remove the other two torx screws in front of the machine ,where the waterreservoir normaly is. (i don't have a picture of this.) but the screws are visible
  • remove the torx screws inside the plastic holes, you'll need a longer torx screwdriver.

  • remove the other two torx screws in front of the machine ,where the waterreservoir normaly is. (i don't have a picture of this.) but the screws are visible

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • remove the body of the machine and you'll see the boiler and the electronics, pump...

Add Comment

Image 1/2: pull the control panel out. Image 2/2: remove the connectors from the board.
  • remove the screws of the control panel.

  • pull the control panel out.

  • remove the connectors from the board.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: reminder : keep a plan from where to where to wires go. I made a electrical plan only for the boards, so i knew where to plug the wires in again.
  • remove head electrical wire ( power )

  • reminder : keep a plan from where to where to wires go. I made a electrical plan only for the boards, so i knew where to plug the wires in again.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: tip: the colors of the wires are also on the board. Image 2/3: tip: the colors of the wires are also on the board. Image 3/3: tip: the colors of the wires are also on the board.
  • remove second board ( pull), be carefull and attentively. here are a lot of wires. ,again keep in mind where the wires go.

  • tip: the colors of the wires are also on the board.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • remove white plastic safety valve. (pull)

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • remove the thick grey and white kabel, that runs from the boiler unit to the iron by removing the two torx screws and the metal plate.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: remove the small and the thicker wire. remaind witch one goes where. Image 2/3: note : if the pump in your iron is broke you should remove the  tubes and wires. ( see third picture) I did'nt do it cause i only opened mine for removing calc from boiler and iron. Image 3/3: note : if the pump in your iron is broke you should remove the  tubes and wires. ( see third picture) I did'nt do it cause i only opened mine for removing calc from boiler and iron.
  • now we will remove the pump.

  • remove the small and the thicker wire. remaind witch one goes where.

  • note : if the pump in your iron is broke you should remove the tubes and wires. ( see third picture) I did'nt do it cause i only opened mine for removing calc from boiler and iron.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: and at the same time we will remove the blue part ( steam valve.) Use a wrench.
  • now we will remove the rest of the wires and cables.

  • and at the same time we will remove the blue part ( steam valve.) Use a wrench.

  • tip : be carefull for the black tube.

I have the same steam iron who stops steaming while in all peripheral actions works right.

After an optical control i discovered that the float in the water tank remain at the bottom

while the water level is max.

Has anyone any idea what is wrong in order to fix the problem.

Thank you in avance

Nickos

Nickos Xyrafidis - Reply

Image 1/2: be carefull with the last wires. some of them ( and also the thick black tube) are realy hard to remove. Image 2/2: tip: to uncalc the boiler, fill it up to 1/3 with realy hot water and the rest with vinegar. let it rest for an hour or 4.
  • now , the last part : the boilerunit.( the most expensive part of the hole machine too!! Here in Belgium you will pay arround 115 USD$ ( 83 euro)

  • be carefull with the last wires. some of them ( and also the thick black tube) are realy hard to remove.

  • tip: to uncalc the boiler, fill it up to 1/3 with realy hot water and the rest with vinegar. let it rest for an hour or 4.

  • tip 2 : if you unclac the boiler , be carefull with some wires, you can't remove them all if you only going to uncalc the machine.

Add Comment

Kevin D

Member since: 05/02/2014

4,141 Reputation

21 Guides authored

25 Comments

Thanks for all your effort in doing this. I found it helpful !

Colin - Reply

Thanks a lot for this, I used it as a guide to replace the soleplate and hose lead - I think I would have struggled without this very handy and well written document.

Proost!

Sean

Sean O'Neil - Reply

no problem guys, thnaks for liking this :).

kind regards,

kevin

Kevin D - Reply

Thanks for these instructions and clear pictures. Very helpful and excellent English.

trevorboardman - Reply

A lot of Philips GC83xx boiler steam iron devices seem to have 'switch off' issues after about 2 years of usage. If you notice that the light around the on/off button is fading, especially when pushing the steam button, your problem might be caused by the capacitors in the power supply. Verify this by checking the power voltage (blue wire on the power board connector): it should be 24Volt dc. If this is significantly less, try replacing the big capacitor on the power board. But be carefull: the whole board carries 240Vac, and the capacitor should only be replaced by a certified safety capacitor (X2 type) with the same operating voltage and capacity.

Paul Turelinckx - Reply

thanks for the info

dank u voor de info :)

a lot of common problems with the machine is the brown dirty water.

to solve this , uncalc the machine and you can try to follow the steps in the link below.

http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/cpind...

Kevin D -

Hi there, by big capacitors do you mean the 2 x 47 micro Farhad 35v 125degree Celcius capacitors? I tried changing these but iron still switches off.

Mark Knox -

Thanks Paul,

We had the same issue. I replaced the X2 capacitor by 3 capacitors each 220µf (so 660 instead of 680 ) but works fine now!

by the way, the 220µf 275V I got from a bubble bath control unit :-)

Regards

Bas Rottier -

Hey JP

is there no info ont the PCB?

I think the black wire is the minus. but there should be some info on the board.

(see step 17)

but for more advance info ask paul turelinckx ( i'm not a proffesional into electronics)

kind regards

Kevin

Kevin D - Reply

Step 21: steam valve....

Philips is always a nightmare to open up...thx for the clear explanation!

robmeijer3456 - Reply

thanks for the info kind regards , kevin

Kevin D - Reply

I have a BC8460 unit. It has been working very well for the past two years but now we have some issues. I have taken apart the boiler unit and I have tested separately the pump, it works, the electrovalve, it works, but when it's reconnected it does the following:

1) the water does not go into the boiler but instead back into the tank. I thought that maybe the problem was the electrovalve not opening and so the pump could not push the water into the boiler, as I tried blowing into the boiler, and it's impossible unless the electovalve opens it. But as I said, I tested the EV and it works fine

2) I manually poured water into the boiler, and it powers up ok and it brings the water temperature up to steam, now when I depress the steam button on the iron itself, some steam will come out and then immediately it stops and it starts flashing to signal to wait for cold water to be pumped into the boiler and to be ready.

When I do press the steam button on the iron itself, the light on the boiler control knob fades.

Michael - Reply

Same problem that reports Michael but with the GC9245.

Raul Redondo - Reply

Does anybody have experience with constant steam flow? The steam button functiones (the time-out is interrupted as pressed) while the steam flows uninterrupted from the iron. My conclusion is that the steam valve is blocked in open position or there is some electrical problem.

Borut - Reply

steam valve problem due to calc ?

Kevin D - Reply

hello,

i have a problem with the GC 8560 , works, but makes a "clicking noise, at the same time (frequenty, the steam varies)

was repaired under warranty but problem is back .

i suspect some components on the PCB !s.

every help is welcome

greedtings:

Eddy

Eddy Van Waes - Reply

Dear Eddy,

Your model is different, but if it is similar to the pictures above this may help:

After ensuring there is no problem with calc. in the valve or pump; it may be the electronics. If so and the warranty is no more helpful:

A TRIAC (Z0103 or BT13x) drives the valve(It is on the power supply board). Check if its burnt. If good; check its driving signal all the way to the control board. Also make sure the power supply is stable. It the biggest capacitor and resistor and the diodes around them. its around 20~24V and the control board's supply is 5V.

Or some related component may be at fault.(all the cap and other transistors...)

The original Philips spare boards may be hard to find but;

The components on the PCB's are familiar and can be found and replaced easily(except for the uC IC) if you find the fault. Someone with electronics education can do it.

Hope it helps

Omid

Omid -

Dear Eddy, ( if you want this text in English , please notify me)

Aan je naam te zien, antwoord ik maar direct in het Nederlands :)

Het klikkend geluid ken ik en is afkomstig ( bijna 90 procent zeker) van de stoomklep of de sturing naar de stoomklep.

volgens de handleiding : "Als de stoomtank leeg of nog niet opgewarmd is, hoort u een klikkend geluid in de

stoomtank. Dit gebeurt door het openen van de stoomklep en is totaal ongevaarlijk."

Als dit blijft duren :

Ik zou eerst ( als de machine niet meer onder garantie is) open maken en de stoompomp proberen reinigen, indien dit niet werkt : Printplaat nakijken en eventueel uitmeten.

Het kan duiden op een slechte werking van de pomp, een vuiltje in de weg of een storing ( printplaat)

Probleem is dat deze onderdelen ( printplaat) moeilijk te vinden zijn.

Als je de machine nakijkt : kijk dan ook naar sporen van corrosie.

Hoop je hier mee geholpen te hebben.

Groeten

Kevin

Kevin D - Reply

Dag Kevin,

Ik heb intussen de generator opengemakt

De connectoren op de printplaat zaten niet al te vast, verholpen, maar geen effect op het klikken geluid, pomp en ventiel zijn ok, het valt op dat de lichtsterkte van de leds voor de standaanduiding dipt' wanneer het stoomventiel open gaat, ik verdenk de voedingsspanni g van de print, ben er nog niet helemaal uit hoe dit werkt ! Waarschijnlijk via condensator in serie met de 230 v

Ik hou je op de hoogte

Groeten

Eddy

Eddy Van Waes - Reply

Dear Kevin,

Thanks for the helpful guide. I joined this website to ask you a question.

I have opened mine and successfully found the source of my problem( steam function's stopped working.. ). It is the temperature sensor below the boiler unit(by the 2 thermal fuses) that is damaged. It is an NTC thermistor that looks like a glass diode and it is connected to the control board via a connector.

These thermistors don't have a any markings, And I don't have access to any Philips rep.

I have the components available but they come in a range of values (10k ... 100k); wondering which one to use.

Could you please tell me its value? If you don't already know and have access to an opened unit, It can be measured with an Ohm meter.

These values (10k ... 100k ) are at 25 C temperature. So if it is 30+ degree C where you are; it must read a bit lower than them.

I'd really appreciate it.

Omid

Omid - Reply

Hello

I added a Pdf with a service manual, maybe you find this interesting?

can you show me a picture of the NTC Thermistor? i will try to find extra info on the thermistor.

Kevin D - Reply

Hello;

I've seen the manual. Unfortunately it doesn't state the value of the thermistor and I don't have another unit to open and measure it.

If you have access to one; could you kindly measure its value by an Ohm Meter? just putting the probe across it terminal or in the connector on the main PCB.

I added a replacement guide detailing it with pictures. We can publish its value for others to use too.

Philips Pressurised Steam Generator Iron GC8220 and Similar Models' Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor) Replacement

(I used the boiler picture from your guide if it is OK. I have linked to your guide as the main teardown guide)

Best regards

Omid -

Hello Omid,

Unfortunately i don't have mine anymore.. the iron was broken and we got another iron. So i can't measure out the thermistor ...

I was looking as well for the value of the termistor but can't find anything..

I looked at your guide, no problem using my photo's , that's why we are here on ifixit :)

Hopefully we find the right value of the thermistor. I keep looking as well.

Best regards

Kevin D - Reply

Hello again

I found the productnumber of a thermistor from the 8... an 9... series , but it looks like the same one.

If i look further to the specs , i found several pages ( deutsch) and US with the 10 K thermistor....

Of course i'm not 100 procent sure.. but it looks like the one you need.

EAN code : 4251309204521

Product code : 902161812

Maybe this helps ?

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/250

https://ersatzteildirect.de/Philips-Ther...

https://dutch.alibaba.com/product-detail...

Kevin D - Reply

Hello Kevin;

Thanks for the effort. I already have a lot of them: 10k 20k 30k 100k.. since I work in electronics. I don't need to buy one and I don't have access to a Philips spare parts.

My problem is I don't know which one to use; so that the iron won't overheat and break or degrade its performance.

Omid -

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 24

Past 7 Days: 95

Past 30 Days: 448

All Time: 10,529