Motorola Droid Teardown

Teardown

Teardown

Teardowns provide a look inside a device and should not be used as disassembly instructions.

Member-Contributed Guide

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

Dr.Wreck has finally worked up the courage to tear apart his Brand New Motorola Droid! What's inside?! Keep it locked to PhoneWreck to see the details as they arrive!

This user-contributed teardown is in response to iFixit's Droid bounty offer.

Edit Step 1 Motorola Droid Teardown  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Motorola Droid Teardown  ¶ 

  • Thar she blows! Keep it locked on iFixit and PhoneWreck to see all of the details as they become available!

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • The first step is to remove the backcover and Battery

  • Here you'll see two screws

    • Use your T6 to remove both the Black and Silver Screws.

  • There are more screws but they are non-conveniently hidden. Finding these was the hardest part!

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Non-conveniently, Motorola has made the chassis screws hard to find...

    • Two are located underneath the plastic piece at the top of the device.

    • Use a pin or very fine stiff wedge to lift this away from the double sided tape to reveal two more T6 screws.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Finding the rest of the fasteners is a royal pain...

    • Did you think to look under the lens cover and google label? Probably not... you should! There's a T5 under there!

      • Try not to mind Dr. Wreck's massive toe thumbs...

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • You're not done yet! You still need to dig for fasteners at the bottom of the device!

    • Luckily there are really *not* easy to find. See that gold grill underneath the battery cover? Yeah... peel that away.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • With these screws removed, you can pry away the back part of the chassis.

    • Use a wedge and work it carefully around the outside of the frame.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • There it is!

    • Use the T5 to remove the last silver PCB screw.

    • Pull off the flex cables that fast the top of the logic board to the screen portion.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Now you can flip out the PCB.

    • Remove the flex off of the bottom of the PCB to free it.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Lastly, pry away the black frame that surrounds the keyboad of the device. This will unveil the sliding mechanism.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • We removed the Cans (not a recommended step!!!) to see what IC's were on the board.

    • Check out the Block Diagram for full details!

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Required Tools

iFixit Opening Picks set of 6

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 22 In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Headphones were tugging or yanked enough to wear out the connection, and I found these instructions invaluable. It was enough for me to get the back panel off.

The back panel has the headphone jack (visible in your last image). I stretched the spring connectors out to give more pressure, but the real problem were the pads on the flex connector -- a couple of them had holes worn in them. I applied a light coat (a dab, followed by a touch from the desoldering braid) of solder to the pads, reassembled the unit, and it works like a charm. I hope this helps anybody who has a flaky headphone connection.

Ridicalis, · Reply

Torx size is a T5 NOT A T6!!!

acemn232, · Reply

The OMAP 3430 is made by Texas Instruments and not Qualcomm. You can't see the manufacturer, since the memory is a POP (Package on Package) configuration.

http://focus.ti.com/general/docs/wtbu/wt...

gbraad, · Reply

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