Introduction

The first laser printer teardown on iFixit.

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your HP LaserJet 1160 or 1320, use our service manual.

Image 1/3: It took almost 7 hours to take apart this amazingly complex printer. Image 2/3: Spoiler alert: It's really nice to see something this repairable. Image 3/3: Also, check out the [https://www.ifixit.com/Device/HP_LaserJet_1160_or_1320|complete repair guide] for this printer!
  • This teardown of the HP LaserJet 1320 is officially the first laser printer teardown on iFixit.

  • It took almost 7 hours to take apart this amazingly complex printer.

  • Spoiler alert: It's really nice to see something this repairable.

  • Also, check out the complete repair guide for this printer!

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Image 1/3: The service manual was right. For the record, this is actually easier than it sounds. Image 2/3: The service manual was right. For the record, this is actually easier than it sounds. Image 3/3: The service manual was right. For the record, this is actually easier than it sounds.
  • According to the service manual (there is a link in the documents section), the left cover of the printer can be opened without any tools by pulling on 2 tabs.

  • The service manual was right. For the record, this is actually easier than it sounds.

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Image 1/3: Remove 2 screws on the I/O port cover. Image 2/3: Remove 6 screws on the formatter cover. Image 3/3: Disconnect 3 connectors to the laser assembly, the cartridge connector, and the control panel.
  • Now on to the formatter.

  • Remove 2 screws on the I/O port cover.

  • Remove 6 screws on the formatter cover.

  • Disconnect 3 connectors to the laser assembly, the cartridge connector, and the control panel.

  • Disconnect 2 flat flexible cables to the laser assembly and the control board.

  • While the service manual says not to use a PoziDriv screwdriver, I found that using a normal Phillips screwdriver on the screws in this printer would require excess force and damage the screws, but a PoziDriv screwdriver removed the screws without causing any damage.

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Image 1/2: [http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/PCA9551.pdf|PCA9551 I2C LED Blinker]. I never knew there was a chip with the sole purpose of blinking LEDs. Image 2/2: STMicroelectronics E6V2HP

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Image 1/1: [http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc0336.pdf|AT24C64 64Kb (8KB) 2-Wire Serial EEPROM]

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Removing the right cover is as easy as disengaging 3 tabs with the printer turned on its side.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • The back cover can be removed by removing 4 screws on the back of the printer.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • The duplexer tray can be removed by pulling outwards on the blue green blue-green tab, which releases the magnets that hold the tray in place.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Remove 2 screws on the back of the printer, one on the left side, and one on the front.

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Image 1/1:
  • After disconnecting the control panel cable, the top cover can be removed.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • The control panel and its circuit board can easily be removed with a metal spudger.

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Image 1/3: Remove 4 screws from the laser assembly. Image 2/3: Remove 4 screws from the laser assembly. Image 3/3: Remove 4 screws from the laser assembly.
  • Remove one cable from the laser assembly.

  • Remove 4 screws from the laser assembly.

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Image 1/3: The chip on the motor board is an AN44010A, most likely some sort of brushless motor driver, although no datasheet could be found. Image 2/3: The chip on the motor board is an AN44010A, most likely some sort of brushless motor driver, although no datasheet could be found. Image 3/3: The chip on the motor board is an AN44010A, most likely some sort of brushless motor driver, although no datasheet could be found.
  • After removing the cover and the clips holding in the lenses, the inside of the laser assembly can be seen.

  • The chip on the motor board is an AN44010A, most likely some sort of brushless motor driver, although no datasheet could be found.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • The board mounted on the side of the laser assembly contains the infrared laser diode and a photodiode to sense the beam direction. It has a chip marked as RH4-5444, for which no datasheet could be found.

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Image 1/2: Remove the retaining clip from the fan. Image 2/2: Remove 2 screws holding in the fan.
  • Disconnect the fan cable from the control board on the back of the printer.

  • Remove the retaining clip from the fan.

  • Remove 2 screws holding in the fan.

  • While the fan can not be completely removed yet, this will make it easier to take apart other parts of the printer.

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Image 1/3: Remove 1 screw on the front of the cartridge connector. Image 2/3: The cartridge connector can be removed from the printer. Image 3/3: The cartridge connector can be removed from the printer.
  • Remove 1 screw from the top of the cartridge connector.

  • Remove 1 screw on the front of the cartridge connector.

  • The cartridge connector can be removed from the printer.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • The cable clip for the laser assembly cable can be removed from the chassis.

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Image 1/2: Disconnect the duplexer solenoid cable from the duplexer PCB. Image 2/2: Remove one screw from the PCB and remove the PCB from the printer.
  • Disconnect the duplexer cable from the control board.

  • Disconnect the duplexer solenoid cable from the duplexer PCB.

  • Remove one screw from the PCB and remove the PCB from the printer.

  • This tiny board contains 2 NPN transistors marked C2120 and C1815, which are used to drive the duplexer solenoid.

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Image 1/3: The duplexer gearbox can now be removed. Image 2/3: Remove one screw holding down the duplexer solenoid. Image 3/3: This appears to be a standard 24V open-frame solenoid, although no markings were found on it.
  • Remove 3 screws on the duplexer gear assembly.

  • The duplexer gearbox can now be removed.

  • Remove one screw holding down the duplexer solenoid.

  • This appears to be a standard 24V open-frame solenoid, although no markings were found on it.

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Image 1/3: Disconnect 2 spade connectors from the microswitch. Image 2/3: The safety interlock prevents the lasers or high-voltage power supply from being turned on when the cartridge door is open. Image 3/3: The safety interlock prevents the lasers or high-voltage power supply from being turned on when the cartridge door is open.
  • Remove 3 screws to remove the safety interlock assembly.

  • Disconnect 2 spade connectors from the microswitch.

  • The safety interlock prevents the lasers or high-voltage power supply from being turned on when the cartridge door is open.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • The fan cable can now be derouted from the cable guide and the fan can be removed.

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Image 1/1:
  • The fan is a standard 24V brushless fan with a speed sensor manufactured by Nidec.

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Image 1/3: Remove the gear from the fuser shaft. Image 2/3: Deroute the remaining cables in the cable guide. Image 3/3: Deroute the remaining cables in the cable guide.
  • Disconnect 2 cables from the control board.

  • Remove the gear from the fuser shaft.

  • Deroute the remaining cables in the cable guide.

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Image 1/3: Remove 1 screw to remove the third solenoid. Image 2/3: Remove 1 screw to remove the third solenoid. Image 3/3: Remove 1 screw to remove the third solenoid.
  • Remove 4 screws to remove the main gear assembly.

  • Remove 1 screw to remove the third solenoid.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • The cartridge door can be removed by removing 2 screws on the front of the printer.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • The pickup roller can now be removed by rotating the white tabs upwards and pulling them out.

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Image 1/3: Remove 2 (hidden) screws to remove the registration assembly. Image 2/3: Remove 2 (hidden) screws to remove the registration assembly. Image 3/3: Remove 2 (hidden) screws to remove the registration assembly.
  • Remove 2 screws to remove the paper feed bar.

  • Remove 2 (hidden) screws to remove the registration assembly.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove one gear on the output shaft of the fuser.

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Image 1/3: You are now halfway through the teardown. Image 2/3: You are now halfway through the teardown. Image 3/3: You are now halfway through the teardown.
  • Disconnect the cable to the tray connector and route it through the hole in the chassis.

  • You are now halfway through the teardown.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Disconnect 2 cables from the control board and remove them from the cable guide.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the cable guide from the chassis.

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Image 1/3: Disconnect 2 connectors from the control board. Image 2/3: Disconnect 2 connectors from the control board. Image 3/3: Disconnect 2 connectors from the control board.
  • Remove the cable guide on the other side of the chassis.

  • Disconnect 2 connectors from the control board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the high voltage wire from the fuser.

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Image 1/3: Disconnect the main motor cable. Image 2/3: Disconnect the main motor cable. Image 3/3: Disconnect the main motor cable.
  • Deroute the tray connector cable through the cable guide.

  • Disconnect the main motor cable.

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Image 1/2: Remove 3 screws from the left side of the printer. Image 2/2: Remove 3 screws from the left side of the printer.
  • Remove 3 screws from the right side of the printer.

  • Remove 3 screws from the left side of the printer.

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Image 1/1:
  • The fuser can now be removed from the printer.

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Image 1/3: Remove one screw on the top of the fuser. Image 2/3: The paper output assembly can now be removed. Image 3/3: The paper output assembly can now be removed.
  • Remove one screw on the front of the fuser.

  • Remove one screw on the top of the fuser.

  • The paper output assembly can now be removed.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove one spring and one screw from each side of the fuser.

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Image 1/2: The springs will fly out violently if you do not hold them with pliers. Image 2/2: Remove one screw on the fuser.
  • Remove the large springs at each side of the fuser by pushing in on the plastic inserts.

  • The springs will fly out violently if you do not hold them with pliers.

  • Remove one screw on the fuser.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the metal piece held down by the spring on each side of the fuser.

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Image 1/1: The white wires on the left connect to a temperature sensor.
  • The fuser roller can be removed from the printer.

  • The white wires on the left connect to a temperature sensor.

  • The large connector on the right connects to the heating element and a thermal fuse.

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Image 1/3: The heating element can be removed from its channel in the roller. Image 2/3: The heating element is a 576-watt thick film ceramic heater. Image 3/3: The heating element is a 576-watt thick film ceramic heater.
  • Disconnect the snap-on connector from the right side of the fuser roller.

  • The heating element can be removed from its channel in the roller.

  • The heating element is a 576-watt thick film ceramic heater.

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Image 1/3: The fusing film can be slid off of the roller without the clips in the way. Image 2/3: The fusing film can be slid off of the roller without the clips in the way. Image 3/3: The fusing film can be slid off of the roller without the clips in the way.
  • Remove the plastic clip from both sides of the roller.

  • The fusing film can be slid off of the roller without the clips in the way.

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Image 1/3: The wires on both of these components have very thick silicone insulation to protect from heat. Image 2/3: The wires on both of these components have very thick silicone insulation to protect from heat. Image 3/3: The wires on both of these components have very thick silicone insulation to protect from heat.
  • After removing the metal cover, the temperature sensor (red) and the thermal fuse (orange) can be removed.

  • The wires on both of these components have very thick silicone insulation to protect from heat.

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Image 1/2: The metal rod in the roller allows the roller to be negatively charged, which prevents toner from sticking to the fusing film. Each end of the rod is coated in a conductive black liquid which helps it make contact with the high-voltage connector. Image 2/2: The metal rod in the roller allows the roller to be negatively charged, which prevents toner from sticking to the fusing film. Each end of the rod is coated in a conductive black liquid which helps it make contact with the high-voltage connector.
  • After removing the plastic clip, the soft foam pressure roller can be removed.

  • The metal rod in the roller allows the roller to be negatively charged, which prevents toner from sticking to the fusing film. Each end of the rod is coated in a conductive black liquid which helps it make contact with the high-voltage connector.

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Image 1/3: After removing one screw, this small circuit board can be removed. Image 2/3: The board contains a beam interrupt sensor, which contains an infrared LED pointing at an infrared phototransistor. When an object enters the slot and breaks the beam, the phototransistor detects it as a drop in infrared light. Image 3/3: The board contains a beam interrupt sensor, which contains an infrared LED pointing at an infrared phototransistor. When an object enters the slot and breaks the beam, the phototransistor detects it as a drop in infrared light.
  • Remove 2 screws to remove the metal bar from the fuser.

  • After removing one screw, this small circuit board can be removed.

  • The board contains a beam interrupt sensor, which contains an infrared LED pointing at an infrared phototransistor. When an object enters the slot and breaks the beam, the phototransistor detects it as a drop in infrared light.

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Image 1/3: The massive control board can now be seen. Image 2/3: The massive control board can now be seen. Image 3/3: The massive control board can now be seen.
  • Remove 4 screws on each side of the printer to remove the metal midframe piece that holds the chassis together.

  • The massive control board can now be seen.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the metal feed plate from the paper feed mechanism.

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Image 1/2: The high voltage corona wire used to apply a charge to the paper is visible in the right of these pictures (the spiked metal strip attached to the paper feed assembly) Image 2/2: The high voltage corona wire used to apply a charge to the paper is visible in the right of these pictures (the spiked metal strip attached to the paper feed assembly)
  • Remove the tray connector and motor cables from the cable guide.

  • The high voltage corona wire used to apply a charge to the paper is visible in the right of these pictures (the spiked metal strip attached to the paper feed assembly)

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Image 1/3: Remove one screw on the printer chassis. Image 2/3: Remove one screw on the printer chassis. Image 3/3: Remove one screw on the printer chassis.
  • Remove one screw holding down the tray connector cable guide and then remove the cable guide.

  • Remove one screw on the printer chassis.

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Image 1/3: Push the safety interlock and formatter cables through the hole in the chassis. Image 2/3: Push the safety interlock and formatter cables through the hole in the chassis. Image 3/3: Push the safety interlock and formatter cables through the hole in the chassis.
  • Remove 2 screws from the left side of the chassis.

  • Push the safety interlock and formatter cables through the hole in the chassis.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Bend the chassis to allow the control board to come loose, and disconnect the 2 cables to the paper feed assembly to remove the control board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove 4 screws on the control board to remove it from the metal plate.

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Image 1/1: [http://www.classiccmp.org/rtellason/transdata/2sk3561.pdf|2SK3561 Switching regulator MOSFET]

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Image 1/1: STMicroelectronics 324 E9SU518 - Possibly an LM324 Quad Op Amp?
  • Chips on the back of the board:

    • STMicroelectronics 324 E9SU518 - Possibly an LM324 Quad Op Amp?

    • STMicroelectronics 339 E9W2513 - Possibly an LM339 Quad Comparator?

    • Unidentified Texas Instruments chip with the part number sanded off.

    • A2714 Power MOSFET

    • Large QFP chip with the part number sanded off and a red and a blue mark on top.

  • Interestingly, all the chips were covered in a clear coating that made it hard to read the part numbers.

  • It appears that whoever designed this board was trying to prevent reverse engineering by making it hard to read the part numbers on the chips.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • The main motor can be removed after unclipping the cable guide and removing 3 screws.

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Image 1/2: This motor might be a special motor designed for use in this printer, as it and many other components have a number with the format RK2-0xxx on them. Image 2/2: The single chip on the motor is a [http://rohmfs.rohm.com/en/products/databook/datasheet/ic/motor/brushless/bd6761fs-e.pdf|BD6761FS Brushless Motor Driver].
  • The motor is a Nidec RK2-0419, which appears to be appears to be a fairly powerful "outrunner" style brushless motor rated for 1.3A at 24V. The rotor (the round metal part) is about 3 inches in diameter and the entire motor weighs about 15 ounces.

  • This motor might be a special motor designed for use in this printer, as it and many other components have a number with the format RK2-0xxx on them.

  • The single chip on the motor is a BD6761FS Brushless Motor Driver.

  • At this point, all that is left of the printer is the metal chassis and the paper feed assembly, a large chunk of plastic containing 2 more beam interrupt sensors.

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Image 1/1: No adhesives, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Staking_(manufacturing)|thermoplastic staking],  spot welding, or rivets are used.
  • This printer receives a perfect repairability score of 10/10.

  • No adhesives, thermoplastic staking, spot welding, or rivets are used.

  • Service manuals for this and most HP printers are easy to find and free.

  • Replacement parts are easy to find.

  • Printer is designed to be repaired.

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Attached Documents

jrw01

Member since: 08/22/2013

825 Reputation

23 Guides authored

One Comment

Looks like someone got a much longer teardown already :)

Monroe KA Teardown

masterX244 - Reply

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