This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Coffee Maker, use our service manual.

  1. Free the top by unscrewing the 2 screws in the front shiny cupwarmer section and the 2 screws in the plastic part in the back.
    • Free the top by unscrewing the 2 screws in the front shiny cupwarmer section and the 2 screws in the plastic part in the back.

    • Carefully take off the top to reveal the inside of the Gaggia.

    • Be sure to unplug the power cord before working on your Old White Coffee Gaggia!!

    This is very similar to, if not a gaggia classic. Even a machine at such a state can be 100% repaired

    George - Reply

  2. Label the connectors on the top connecting the wires to the switch assembly with a marker or ball pen. This way you'll be able to put them in the right place when reassembling your device.
    • Label the connectors on the top connecting the wires to the switch assembly with a marker or ball pen. This way you'll be able to put them in the right place when reassembling your device.

    • Gently pull the labeled connectors of the switch assembly.

    • Continue with second row.

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    • Pull the last two connectors off the switch assembly.

    • The switch assembly is held in place by two clamps on its sides that have to be pushed in.

    • Gently pull/push the switch assembly to the front to release it from the case.

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    • Label and pull off the connectors to the warning light just right where the switches used to be.

    • There is one upper and one lower, divided by a plastic tab.

    • Next, unscrew the tab securing the grounding wire and the water hose to the top of the boiler.

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    • Free the tab with the grounding wire.

    • Next up is the two connectors that go into the blue (thermostate?) on the top of the boiler.

    • Label and gently pull off the first...

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    • ...and the second connector.

    • Next thing to pull off is the connecor that connects the red wire to the the duct that protrudes outward of the boiler. (The heating element)

    • Remember to label every connector you take off to remember where it goes.

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    • At the magnetic valve next to the big round boiler, there are two more connectors to label and pull off.

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    • Still not done with labelling and pulling off connectors, this time at the back of the boiler.

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    • Left of the boiler and a little hard to reach sits connector no. 19 (if you followed my labelling method) once again on a ducty thing.

    • Right next to it, you can see the Over Pressure Valve Assembly (with the black hose coming out of the top)

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    • Here you see the water intake hose, sucking water from out of the water tank and delivering it to the water pump.

    • The hose connects to the pump at its bottom side, so you can't quite see it.

    • The hose is secured to a black plastic piece in the bottom of the case by a metal clip that can be loosened with pliers.

    • Take off the hose and be careful not to lose the metal clip!

    • You can't take off both endings yet as the end that goes into the pump is still hidden!

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    • Very dirty but functional, this is where the power cable is connected to all the wires we just freed.

    • You will only need to take out the cables on the right (bottom side on the picture), starting with the 3 from the power cable. (ground, brown and blue)

    • Unscrewing the whole luster terminal can make your life easier here.

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    • Next, remove the two white cables (distinguishable by the one having an extra luster terminal)...

    • ...and the grounding wire that go to the water pump.

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    • You can now carefully pull the whole wiring out of the machine.

    • Mind any cables that still might be connected or stuck!

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    • Next, we will take the black water hose, that connects the Over Pressure Valve to the water tank, off.

    • Pinch the clip holding the hose in place together to release it

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    • Label the hoses as well as they have different lengths!

    • Proceed with the 2nd black hose that goes from the magnetic valve to the water outlet in the front.

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    • With all silicone hoses disconnected, proceed by unscrewing the fitting that connects the steam lance to the steam valve.

    • Take the steam lance out through the top.

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    • At the top of the water pump, there is a high pressure teflon hose that needs to be unscrewed in order to free the pump.

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    • The steam valve is connected to the top of the boiler by a conducto pipe.

    • Unscrew both endings and take the duct off.

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    • Unscrew the nut securing the steam valve assembly to the top of the boiler.

    • You can just pull the steam assembly out of the way for now.

    • If you have the fitting Allen key, you can also take out the steam assembly by taking off the black knob and pulling the assembly out to the back.

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    • The vibratory water pump sits on a rubber fitting.

    • Unscrew both screws to free the pump.

    • Take out the whole pump/fitting assemby.

    • Unfortunately, the black rubber thing on the bottom of the pump originally connecting to the high pressure teflon hose is broken, be careful with this piece as there may not be a replacement!

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    • Let's have a look at the portafilter holder and the screen at the front of your machine. As you can see, mine has its share of rust and gross dirt.

    • Unscrew the single screw in the middle of the screen.

    • The screen might be held in place by dirt and coffee of decades past.

    Shoot, the black rubber connector on my pump broke too!

    Dave Baghdanov - Reply

    • Ewwwww...

    • I managed to take the screen off by jiggling a little on it with a screwdriver.

    • There are 4 screws holding the outer ring in place, unscrew those and the outer ring should come free.

    You forgot to remove the group base, it's the round iron thingy held by two screws after you remove the shower screen. More in next step.

    George - Reply

    Shower screen and group base below it should be removed and cleaned typically every 6 months.

    George - Reply

    • With the outer ring/portafilter holder off, 2 more screws are uncovered.

    • Unscrew those.

    Remove the group base before the outer ring!

    George - Reply

    • There still is a black rubber gasket that needs to be taken off.

    • Not sure if those are still for sale, so check if you might use this gasket again.

    The big gasket should be replaced, typically every 2 years. It's also very cheap.

    George - Reply

    • Return to the inside of the machine and unscrew the 4 screws at the top of the boiler. Be careful not to strip the screws!! Gently pull the top of the boiler off.

    • Prepare to be grossed out.

    • Somewhere below the white/brownish stuff in the 3rd picture there is a black gasket hiding. Can you find it?

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    • Take out the bottom part of the boiler.

    • Looks very empty now.

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    • You can further disassemble the lower part of the boiler.

    • Unscrew the nut holding the magnetic valve in place, and pull all parts off.

    • Unscrew the 4 screws at the bottom of the valve assemby and it is free.

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    • The Over Pressure Valve can also be unscrewed and taken apart.

    • Unscrew the thing holding the screw in place.

    OPV needs adjustment with a pressure gauge afterwards. The one in the pic is probably beyond salvation.

    George - Reply

    • The power cable can be pulled out if you turn the plastic nut a little bit.

    • Close-Up of the pump, Ulka H53.

    • I hope I can get a replacement for the rubber thing that went here...

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Member since: 04/16/2011

141 Reputation

1 Guide authored


Thanks for posting this. Please add a picture of the whole machine.

Ed Gordon - Reply

nice teardown, i was able to fix mine

Luke Legg - Reply

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