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Tools Featured in this Teardown

Introduction

This is a Generation 4 DualShock 4 Controller. It is a Version 2 controller. It features parts exclusive to the Generation 4 line of PS4 Controllers. This site shows a gen 4 being torn down for your viewing pleasure.

  1. Remove 4 PH00 screws Undo the 2 clips underneath Lift the bottom shell. be cautious of the ribbon cable connection.
    • Remove 4 PH00 screws

    • Undo the 2 clips underneath

    • Lift the bottom shell. be cautious of the ribbon cable connection.

  2. Undo the interface connecting the ribbon cable to the mainboard.
    • Undo the interface connecting the ribbon cable to the mainboard.

  3. Remove the top light bar Remove the light carrying plastic. Remove the light triangle.
    • Remove the top light bar

    • Remove the light carrying plastic.

    • Remove the light triangle.

  4. Unscrew the PH00 screw to Release USB Chip This Generation 4 Controller uses a JDS-040. This board is authentic due to its colors and markings.
    • Unscrew the PH00 screw to Release USB Chip

    • This Generation 4 Controller uses a JDS-040. This board is authentic due to its colors and markings.

  5. The battery is secured onto the Battery Bracket with a small amount of adhesive. Lack of adhesive is a red flag that this controller has been previously worked on by a third party.
    • The battery is secured onto the Battery Bracket with a small amount of adhesive. Lack of adhesive is a red flag that this controller has been previously worked on by a third party.

    • The battery uses a friction fit interface with two pins. Use tweezers to remove.

    • Check the battery for authenticity. A real battery is needed. There are some repairs that replace the rectangular gray battery with a plastic battery that looks like it can be cut. Fake batteries are questionable in quality and detrimental to the controller.

  6. The battery brace is held by friction by pegs on either side of the brace. Use tweezers to remove the brace
    • The battery brace is held by friction by pegs on either side of the brace. Use tweezers to remove the brace

  7. Detatch touch pad at its interface. Be careful. This Gen 4 controller features a mainboard with a PH00 screw towards the right side. Please remove the screw. That’s all. Lift the Midframe right up on out of there. Always have the mainboard facing up. The Midframe May face down after the rumble motors are desoldered.
    • Detatch touch pad at its interface. Be careful.

    • This Gen 4 controller features a mainboard with a PH00 screw towards the right side. Please remove the screw.

    • That’s all. Lift the Midframe right up on out of there. Always have the mainboard facing up. The Midframe May face down after the rumble motors are desoldered.

  8. Lift the bottom of the touchpad towards you, as it is hinged near the top. Lift it away after undoing the hinge. There are panels on either side of the touchpad. It isn’t glued, nor is it a friction fit. One side is disassembled and shown in blue. Use tweezers. There are panels on either side of the touchpad. It isn’t glued, nor is it a friction fit. One side is disassembled and shown in blue. Use tweezers.
    • Lift the bottom of the touchpad towards you, as it is hinged near the top. Lift it away after undoing the hinge.

    • There are panels on either side of the touchpad. It isn’t glued, nor is it a friction fit. One side is disassembled and shown in blue. Use tweezers.

  9. The pad membranes are friction fitted. Once they come off, the buttons can go everywhere, they’ll come out into your hand. The pad membranes are friction fitted. Once they come off, the buttons can go everywhere, they’ll come out into your hand.
    • The pad membranes are friction fitted. Once they come off, the buttons can go everywhere, they’ll come out into your hand.

  10. Back to the Midframe. Lift away the mainboard. Mind the motor wires. They are fragile. This step to isolate the board is needed so desoldering heat doesn’t ruin the plastic Midframe. Desolder the red and black wires at the Mainboard, noting their respective locations.
    • Back to the Midframe. Lift away the mainboard. Mind the motor wires. They are fragile. This step to isolate the board is needed so desoldering heat doesn’t ruin the plastic Midframe.

    • Desolder the red and black wires at the Mainboard, noting their respective locations.

  11. Pull the bumpers right off. Be careful, you’ll hear a click.
    • Pull the bumpers right off. Be careful, you’ll hear a click.

  12. Here’s the panel work to undo. it should come right off. The spring should come out with the tweezers.
    • Here’s the panel work to undo.

    • it should come right off.

    • The spring should come out with the tweezers.

  13. This pad should slide right out. Use the tweezers.
    • This pad should slide right out. Use the tweezers.

  14. There’s a piece of Mylar with a circuit on it to detect the buttons. Use the tweezers as shown. There’s a piece of Mylar with a circuit on it to detect the buttons. Use the tweezers as shown.
    • There’s a piece of Mylar with a circuit on it to detect the buttons. Use the tweezers as shown.

  15. Use tweezers to remove speaker dust mesh. It is fixed on there with light adhesive. The speaker itself is also fixed with light adhesive.  Flip the Midframe over to remove it with the tweezers. The thumb sticks pull straight off the rockers. Go ahead and do that.
    • Use tweezers to remove speaker dust mesh. It is fixed on there with light adhesive.

    • The speaker itself is also fixed with light adhesive. Flip the Midframe over to remove it with the tweezers.

    • The thumb sticks pull straight off the rockers. Go ahead and do that.

Alexander Weinhart

Member since: 10/15/2020

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