Tools Featured in this Teardown

Introduction

Find out what makes a cordless drill/driver whirr.

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your DirectPower DE157 Cordless drill-screwdriver, use our service manual.

Image 1/2: This is a more-or-less no-name cordless screwdriver/drill kit, but its construction more or less matches most of these devices. Image 2/2: This is a more-or-less no-name cordless screwdriver/drill kit, but its construction more or less matches most of these devices.
  • The driver kit.

  • This is a more-or-less no-name cordless screwdriver/drill kit, but its construction more or less matches most of these devices.

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Image 1/3: To open the charger block, unscrew three #1 Phillips screws. Image 2/3: To open the charger block, unscrew three #1 Phillips screws. Image 3/3: To open the charger block, unscrew three #1 Phillips screws.
  • The charger consist of a standard wallwart, output 14.4V 350mA, along with a little block (weighing nothing at all) to connect to one of the battery packs.

  • To open the charger block, unscrew three #1 Phillips screws.

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Image 1/2: A diode to protect against reverse current. Image 2/2: An LED and resistor that is on so long as the box gets power.
  • After lifting off the bottom, the PCB is exposed, and you can lift it out of the charger block along with the battery contacts. On the PCB we find:

    • A diode to protect against reverse current.

    • An LED and resistor that is on so long as the box gets power.

    • A giant 10 Ohm resistor to slightly current-limit the charge, and across which the green led and resistor are placed -- this will therefore light up as long as significant current passes to the battery.

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Image 1/2: Four #1 Phillips screws. Image 2/2: Four #1 Phillips screws.
  • One of the two battery packs. To open, remove

    • Four #1 Phillips screws.

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Image 1/3: Note that there is room on the right side for three more cells, which would make a 18V battery pack. Image 2/3: Especially cheaper makers usually have versions for 7.2V/9.6V/12/14.4/18V all using the same plastic, just more or less cells and a different motor. Image 3/3: Especially cheaper makers usually have versions for 7.2V/9.6V/12/14.4/18V all using the same plastic, just more or less cells and a different motor.
  • After removing the screws, turn right side up again and lift off the plastic cover, exposing 12 NiCd cells in a string, and nothing else.

  • Note that there is room on the right side for three more cells, which would make a 18V battery pack.

  • Especially cheaper makers usually have versions for 7.2V/9.6V/12/14.4/18V all using the same plastic, just more or less cells and a different motor.

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Jasper

Member since: 05/02/2010

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