Introduction

Overview of how to take apart a Bosch 36618 cordless drill driver. I will be taking apart the drill and cleaning bits and pieces as I go. I am not fixing or repairing any particular part of the drill. I hope you find this guid helpful!

Image 1/1: Prepare a workspace by having a clean, level surface and any required tools within reach.
  • Remove the battery before any disassembly.

  • Prepare a workspace by having a clean, level surface and any required tools within reach.

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Image 1/1: The screw circled in orange is recessed quite far and might not be reachable with certain T10 screwdrivers.
  • Remove the 11 T10 Torx screws from the exterior of the drill driver.

    • The screw circled in orange is recessed quite far and might not be reachable with certain T10 screwdrivers.

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Image 1/2: There are no tabs or plastic flaps holding the two pieces together. Pull straight up and the two pieces should separate easily. Image 2/2: Check out all that dust by the motor, that can't be efficient!
  • After the 11 exterior screws are removed, pull the plastic housing pieces apart.

    • There are no tabs or plastic flaps holding the two pieces together. Pull straight up and the two pieces should separate easily.

  • Check out all that dust by the motor, that can't be efficient!

  • The second picture is a closer up shot the side with all the electronic goodies.

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Image 1/3: Be aware of the speed selector (first picture) which is slotted onto the motor and chuck assembly as you remove it. Image 2/3: Remove the electrical connections. The colors are marked on the motor so no need to remember which side is which. Image 3/3: The electrical connections are spade terminals with a little locking piece on the front (non flat) side of the spade. Push the lock to the back and pull the connector straight out.
  • The motor and chuck assembly can be pulled up and out.

    • Be aware of the speed selector (first picture) which is slotted onto the motor and chuck assembly as you remove it.

  • Remove the electrical connections. The colors are marked on the motor so no need to remember which side is which.

    • The electrical connections are spade terminals with a little locking piece on the front (non flat) side of the spade. Push the lock to the back and pull the connector straight out.

  • What's remaining is the motor and chuck assembly (third picture).

  • The chuck can be removed with a hex key, I didn't go that far in the disassembly.

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Image 1/3: The two red boxes in the first picture depict where the separation will occur. Image 2/3: The second picture shows the connection on the chuck assembly side. Image 3/3: The third picture shows the connection on the motor side.
  • The motor can be removed from the chuck assembly with a clockwise twist.

    • The two red boxes in the first picture depict where the separation will occur.

  • The second picture shows the connection on the chuck assembly side.

  • The third picture shows the connection on the motor side.

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Image 1/1: When reassembling, slotting the gear pictured to the left back into the chuck assembly can be finicky. Be patient and take your time.
  • Remove the black plate on the motor by removing the two T15 Torx screws.

    • When reassembling, slotting the gear pictured to the left back into the chuck assembly can be finicky. Be patient and take your time.

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Image 1/2: Picture 1: connections to the trigger assembly. Image 2/2: Picture 2: connections on the rear of the battery receptacle.
  • Here are some closeups of a few electrical connections.

  • Picture 1: connections to the trigger assembly.

  • Picture 2: connections on the rear of the battery receptacle.

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Image 1/2: Picture 2: be cautious of this spring behind the battery receptacle, it likes to fall out. Image 2/2: Picture 2: be cautious of this spring behind the battery receptacle, it likes to fall out.
  • Picture 1: closeup of the forward, revers, and lockout assembly.

  • Picture 2: be cautious of this spring behind the battery receptacle, it likes to fall out.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Insert wisdom here.

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Image 1/3: Picture 2. I relabeled the torque ring with Sharpie so that the markings were legible again. Image 2/3: Look at all that dust and particulates that were  gunking up the drill! I'm sure the drill driver will operate more smoother and efficiently now. Image 3/3: Thanks for looking at my teardown! Happy fixing!
  • Here's the thoroughly cleaned and fully reassembled drill. No extra pieces, yay!

  • Picture 2. I relabeled the torque ring with Sharpie so that the markings were legible again.

  • Look at all that dust and particulates that were gunking up the drill! I'm sure the drill driver will operate more smoother and efficiently now.

  • Thanks for looking at my teardown! Happy fixing!

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Finish Line

Calvin

Member since: 02/15/2015

209 Reputation

1 Guide authored

One Comment

In order to replace the gearbox (part 2606200263) for new one, you must remove the chuck. I tried to but was not able. After removing the screw inside the chuck, I tried to unscrew the chuck counter clockwise without result. Do you have the trick?

Dionne - Reply

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