Tools Featured in this Teardown

Introduction

With no previous information to follow, I was not able to disassemble this headset without causing irreparable damage to my personal pair.

Nonetheless, this is an excellent starting point for beginning a repair without damage.

You're welcome.

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Beats Studio 2.0, use our service manual.

While there seem to be a variety of technical problems with the electronics of the Beats Studio 2.0 headphones (both wired and wireless), mine had a very specific problem:
  • While there seem to be a variety of technical problems with the electronics of the Beats Studio 2.0 headphones (both wired and wireless), mine had a very specific problem:

    • Appearing fully charged, they would play (at any given volume) for a period of no more than 1 minute before fading out, the effect spanning roughly 1/4 of a second. They would need to be hard reset and turned back on before being functional

    • My initial hypothesis: either battery was not charging properly, internal circuit problem ("fading" may be from capacitor failure), or some other miscellaneous failing component

  • I am not an electrical engineer or a hardware debugger. After talking to a couple of Apple techs, either circuit diagrams aren't available or no longer exist for this product. Therefore I was limited to my existing knowledge which is far from complete.

  • Image credit: support.apple.com

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I was hopeful that the issue was a bad battery (as these are relatively easy to solve), so I decided to start with the charger-side earpiece. There are subtle holes on the outside rings of either earpiece, hinting that prying may be possible. The surrounding plastic is very fragile, so if you are trying to salvage the suave exterior, you may want to apply heat as there is strong adhesive holding the ring in place. Be careful if heating - the plastic will likely warp with higher temperatures (try to keep just warm/medium hot to the touch), and use broad, plastic prying tools for best outcome.
  • I was hopeful that the issue was a bad battery (as these are relatively easy to solve), so I decided to start with the charger-side earpiece.

    • There are subtle holes on the outside rings of either earpiece, hinting that prying may be possible. The surrounding plastic is very fragile, so if you are trying to salvage the suave exterior, you may want to apply heat as there is strong adhesive holding the ring in place.

    • Be careful if heating - the plastic will likely warp with higher temperatures (try to keep just warm/medium hot to the touch), and use broad, plastic prying tools for best outcome.

  • After removing the plastic ring, screws were now exposed that held two halves of the outer earpiece assembly together. Excellent!

  • Though the screws provided support, the two halves didn't simply fall apart - a surrounding plastic clip holds the two pieces snugly together. Time to grab the spudger...

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By putting a thin spudger between the two halves of the plastic container, it is fairly easy to separate the two halves. But the top likely won't come apart without a fight. There are two primary pieces to keep in mind: The small clips that show "L and "R" should probably be removed before the two pieces are separated. They are clipped into the outer shell and adhered with a similar adhesive to the outer rings that were previously removed. The trick: spread one side outwards as you are prying the broad section away from the rest of the shell. Now to the main issue: there are deep "tracks" that clip the two halves together. I haven't been able to use a technique to make this easier, as you cannot "slide" the two halves apart. Just like the L/R clips,  concentrate on stretching the inner (grey) part as much as possible. Force will be necessary; leave a comment if a better way is found.
  • By putting a thin spudger between the two halves of the plastic container, it is fairly easy to separate the two halves. But the top likely won't come apart without a fight. There are two primary pieces to keep in mind:

    • The small clips that show "L and "R" should probably be removed before the two pieces are separated. They are clipped into the outer shell and adhered with a similar adhesive to the outer rings that were previously removed. The trick: spread one side outwards as you are prying the broad section away from the rest of the shell.

    • Now to the main issue: there are deep "tracks" that clip the two halves together. I haven't been able to use a technique to make this easier, as you cannot "slide" the two halves apart. Just like the L/R clips, concentrate on stretching the inner (grey) part as much as possible. Force will be necessary; leave a comment if a better way is found.

  • You may be able to separate these pieces once or twice, but they do bend slightly and eventually the rails will deform, making reassembly impossible without modification.

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Sadly, the earcup's contents weren't as plentiful as I had hoped.  Housed inside are the lithium battery, noise-cancelling microphone, LED control circuit, and power/charging circuit. In my case, I initially believed the battery could be the issue. I took a multimeter to the positive and negative connections and read the voltage just above 4v (it's a 3.7v battery), which means that it is holding a full charge. Quite unfortunate for my diagnosis. After completing a  visual inspection the circuit board for any signs of component failure (discoloration, burn marks, melted exteriors, etc.), it was time to look to the other earcup for answers.
  • Sadly, the earcup's contents weren't as plentiful as I had hoped. Housed inside are the lithium battery, noise-cancelling microphone, LED control circuit, and power/charging circuit.

    • In my case, I initially believed the battery could be the issue. I took a multimeter to the positive and negative connections and read the voltage just above 4v (it's a 3.7v battery), which means that it is holding a full charge. Quite unfortunate for my diagnosis.

  • After completing a visual inspection the circuit board for any signs of component failure (discoloration, burn marks, melted exteriors, etc.), it was time to look to the other earcup for answers.

I'm having the issue that my earphones doesn't charge anymore. There if i plug it in the led blinks once and shuts oft again. I followed your instructions so far and found some "white stuff" near the black cable which is soldered to the PCB there... Any guess?

Rico Meller - Reply

Hi Rico, I don't have the headphones anymore so I can only provide speculation. Long story short - it likely isn't the source of a problem, or a solution to your charging problem.

In one of the pictures here you can see some industrial "glue gun" glue (same idea anyways), that is used to isolate the wires in case one comes loose (so they don't short each other out), and also to provide stress relief - any tugging on that wire will be distributed more evenly than if it wasn't there.

If the substance you're talking about is actually white, it's usually one of 3 things - first, could be corrosion of some sort. Check if the substance feels powdery/chalky - if so, this could actually be a problem area. I have my doubts that it would form by the wires though... but thought I'd throw it in anyways. Second option - if it's more of a "paste" (still somewhat fluid), it might be thermal paste, used to transfer heat to another component.

Mark - Reply

Thermal paste doesn't really have a place around wires, but it's messy and could have just been spread around at the factory by accident. This shouldn't make or break anything for you.

The third option would seem kind of flexible/rubbery, this I believe is essentially a silicone compound not too different than what you use around a bathtub. It's used in the same sort of ways hot glue is, but has a very useful property - silicone doesn't melt under high heat. So you can isolate connectors, provide strength etc., and not have to worry about hot components reflowing your adhesive.

Mark - Reply

If I were you, I'd try measuring your battery's voltage with a multimeter. You can use sewing needles to get inside the contacts for the battery, and touch the sewing needles to the multimeter leads.

If the voltage is extremely low, the battery charging circuit might think there's a malfunction and just "refuse to try". Without fancy equipment, I'd recommend buying a new battery (see the model # and ebay for some hints).

If the battery is around 2.8-3v, the battery is dead, but "reasonably dead", and it likely means your headphones have a faulty charging circuit. You can try inspecting the components on the board shown here and see if any look "burned", smell weird etc., but if nothing looks suspect I'd just try to buy that circuit board again if you can find one (ebay is probably your only good source here... or someone else who's visiting that has a faulty set).

If the battery has a high voltage (like around 3.5v+)... well, you're in the same boat as I was, and it's not a battery or charging issue -_-

Mark - Reply

I completed the following steps in a way that causes irreversible damage - its sole purpose was to give an idea of how one could go about to disassemble the set using a method and order that will not ruin the headphones.
  • I completed the following steps in a way that causes irreversible damage - its sole purpose was to give an idea of how one could go about to disassemble the set using a method and order that will not ruin the headphones.

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Based on the previous side, I assumed that disassembly of the 3.5mm jack side (to be referred to as "jack side" from this point) would be similar. I started by removing the surrounding ring, only to find out that there was no screws hidden underneath.
  • Based on the previous side, I assumed that disassembly of the 3.5mm jack side (to be referred to as "jack side" from this point) would be similar. I started by removing the surrounding ring, only to find out that there was no screws hidden underneath.

    • From my memory, there is absolutely no reason to remove this surrounding ring on the jack side.

  • After prying for a while, I began to wonder if some type of plastic clips were holding the two sides together. Knowing the two sides were already held together with strong "rails", I decided to drill out the areas where these clips were believed to be located

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After drilling was performed, I noticed that the headphone would no longer turn on. Upon further inspection, one of the drill holes had penetrated leads in the circuit board. Due to its physical damage, I was unable to perform a good diagnosis on the cause of the headphone issue. While not being an electronics engineer, my best guesses are either a processing chip or a capacitor malfunction (due to initially working but fading out, and functioning for longer periods if they haven't recently had a hard reset)
  • After drilling was performed, I noticed that the headphone would no longer turn on. Upon further inspection, one of the drill holes had penetrated leads in the circuit board.

  • Due to its physical damage, I was unable to perform a good diagnosis on the cause of the headphone issue. While not being an electronics engineer, my best guesses are either a processing chip or a capacitor malfunction (due to initially working but fading out, and functioning for longer periods if they haven't recently had a hard reset)

    • The physical damage prevented me from being as motivated to check for signs of component failure, especially knowing that this pair of headphones was likely irreparable at this point.

  • The second picture shows the reverse side of this circuit board

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The holes that were drilled revealed that screws were attached from the inner side of the earcup. There are a few seams to choose, but the one I chose (which is also the correct one) to begin further disassembly is between the foam pad and the small first layer of plastic.
  • The holes that were drilled revealed that screws were attached from the inner side of the earcup.

  • There are a few seams to choose, but the one I chose (which is also the correct one) to begin further disassembly is between the foam pad and the small first layer of plastic.

  • There is no magic that can help this step very much, as heat around the cushion can easily deform or melt the plastic, and heat from the back cannot penetrate the insulating plastic and air from the other side.

    • Insert a metal or plastic spudger roughly half an inch between and slowly rotate to separate. You should hear the strong adhesive releasing slowly.

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There are 5 screws that hold the thin plastic layer (securing the speaker) to the other side of the enclosure. Located inside, you can find headphone connector, wires to connect to the speaker, and the noise-cancelling microphone. Small pieces of tape prevent wires from moving inside the enclosure, which will probably have to be removed (either to be re-adhered later or replaced with hot glue)
  • There are 5 screws that hold the thin plastic layer (securing the speaker) to the other side of the enclosure.

  • Located inside, you can find headphone connector, wires to connect to the speaker, and the noise-cancelling microphone.

  • Small pieces of tape prevent wires from moving inside the enclosure, which will probably have to be removed (either to be re-adhered later or replaced with hot glue)

  • In the middle is a black sticker, hiding a single screw that makes a structural connection to the headphone frame through the "accoustic refulex/comfort chamber" (It's red on this model - Im not entirely sure of its main purpose)

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After removing the middle screw, I was now at a loss of which direction to go next. The earpiece was still firmly connected to the mysterious red chamber, and I didn't see a logical next step except to simply pull the two sections apart. The slots in the speaker enclosure allowed the rubber to hold on to the speaker enclosure. I began forcing them out of their place to hopefully allow access to the other side.
  • After removing the middle screw, I was now at a loss of which direction to go next. The earpiece was still firmly connected to the mysterious red chamber, and I didn't see a logical next step except to simply pull the two sections apart.

  • The slots in the speaker enclosure allowed the rubber to hold on to the speaker enclosure. I began forcing them out of their place to hopefully allow access to the other side.

  • With all rubber nubs removed, I could finally see inside the rubber area - Finally! The 4 screws holding the frame pieces together could be taken off!

  • HOWEVER, I noticed that attempting to reconnect the red rubber piece to the earpiece enclosure was virtually impossible. There may be some technique to improve chances (potentially with fishing wire or tape), but it might be more trouble than it is worth (and I don't say that if I don't have to).

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Instead of separating the two pieces, it seems highly favourable to drill small holes through the black plastic layer, allowing you to remove the 4 screws without separation
  • Instead of separating the two pieces, it seems highly favourable to drill small holes through the black plastic layer, allowing you to remove the 4 screws without separation

    • Accoustically, this probably isn't a great idea. So, afterwards, you would want to shake out as much of the plastic shavings as possible, and plug the holes as flush as possible using hot glue: push a drop of hot glue in the area with a finger or tool that has been wet with dish soap and water. It will prevent the glue from sticking on release.

  • In the picture, I've done my best to mark off approximate locations to be drilled. If off, you could either make larger holes or a separate hole, depending on your preference. Be very careful - take your time and drill with light/no pressure!

    • Normally, I don't like making permanent modifications when possible. In this case, it seems almost unavoidable

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To anyone attempting to debug the faulty circuitry inside their headphones, I wish you the best and would be interested to see the results.
  • To anyone attempting to debug the faulty circuitry inside their headphones, I wish you the best and would be interested to see the results.

  • If a guide is made that references techniques shown here, it would be appreciated to link to this tutorial. In a small way, it helps me feel better about destroying my own set.

  • Images used anywhere else are requested to be linked back to this guide

  • Should anyone feel that my efforts were donation-worthy, I would be honored to accept any offset amount towards the cost of replacing this pair. I will also be keeping the salvageable parts, in case anyone is looking for inexpensive repair pieces.

What still might have been the culprit is the battery. Just because a battery has voltage doesn't mean it has amperage. Second it still maybe could have been a reset issue. And last the charger assembly you plug into. Looks like you were not user friendly.

JustMe - Reply

I believe your first point is incorrect in most (if not all) situations - a battery can usually provide far more amperage than the device that it powers. As it dies, it is unable to produce the required amperage at the specified voltage - and by some physics principle that I am not well enough informed on, it is able to meet the amperage by decreasing the voltage. The voltage continues to decrease until it is no longer sufficient to power the components in the device. In essence, the mAh rating would drop, but only because this is still a fancy way of measuring wattage over time (with a cutoff for when voltage is no longer acceptable).

I have contacted the company for any possible reset instructions, none of which worked. I even tried many of the "home therapy" techniques listed here and elsewhere, to no avail. The device did reset, but constantly needed more resets, as expressed in the guide.

Mark - Reply

The charger assembly was in working condition, and the device signified that it had external power plugged in. I did not check if there was current going through the charging circuit, because the battery was already above nominal voltage and therefore fully charged (as a battery charger would read it).

I'm not sure what you mean by user-friendly... the headphones were well taken care of until the very end of the disassembly, if you are referring to product care. If you mean that the guide is not user-friendly, please make your own concentrating on the parts that you feel were missed. It doesn't sound like you are qualified to be editing this one.

To anyone who reads this looking for more information on diagnosis, I would begin looking at the surface-mount capacitors if you suffer from the same issue as I did. They are a weak point in many electronics, and do not fail immediately (potentially causing the slow shutdown). Unfortunately at the time of writing, no such resource exists for capacitor values.

Mark - Reply

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17 Comments

Hello from Russia! Faced with the problem of defective wires on the left side, before it successfully dismantling the right.

There appears to be removal of the left cover (where the key) that you drilled.

Above and below there are easily detachable clip, but left and right can not understand that. But holding so that the plastic can be broken off along the radius of the part.

    Who can help?

kamencev1 - Reply

Hi there, are you using a translator? I am having trouble understanding what you are trying to say. If you would like to upload an image that may help

Mark -

These headphones are a real headache.I really believe they are throw a ways.The screws in the tutorial were not in the exact place as shown[no fault to the tech].I have been ripping my hair out trying to repair for a young man and wish i never started.It is easier to repair a computer or LCD TV.Just found out the cost of manufacturing and shipping was shown to be around 17 dollars.Tape and glue to me is not professional.I truly appreciate this guide and without it i would have said to him, throw the away or sell online.

traker9 - Reply

Hello ! I disassembled mine today for curiosity, and found out that what you did at step 3 is not the best idea, it could very easily break the plastic. They are meant to be disassembled in the following order: unscrew the 4 screws, lift the round part just enough to remove the 2 connectors (battery and speaker) and then the plastic cover slides back with no effort whatsoever. Also, when putting it back together you must do the same, slide the cover, and then by gently keeping the round portion up, put the 2 connector back. It became clear to me that this is how they assemble them at the factory, because it doesn't click back into place, even when pressed hard, instead the plastic slide starts to crack.

Valentin Calinoaia - Reply

If you ended up taking pictures or a video of the process, I can definitely add this to the guide.

Mark -

Please Please in that new video or tutorial please show step by tutorial on a left inner hinge!

maksimillian911 - just now

maksimillian911 -

I am looking for instruction for replacing hinge pins on a Solo 2 Wired.

Dealhowdy ! - Reply

Please Please in that new video or tutorial please show step by tutorial on a left inner hinge!

maksimillian911 - Reply

Where can the main circuit board be purchased?I cannot find anywhere online.Can anyone help?

traker9 - Reply

my Beats Studio 2 has a problem that it will lose its full charge within one day even though it's turned off. I have already replaced its battery, but the problem remains. Does anybody know that the cause is?

Xian Zhang - Reply

Not as hard as this guy made it seem? But I am a electrical engineer and Technician. But I hit the I fixit bc I was replacing the power board, after my best guess and ordered the part to be right!!, And lost track of the stupid wire layout to solder back on as my scope is really awkward to fit items under

mike griffin - Reply

Feel free to recommend changes where you found a better technique.

But keep in mind, everyone starts from a different position. I personally take the approach to overestimate work rather than underestimate, I've also rarely found that belittling people or their progress is helpful in the end. I'm not claiming to be one, but the sign of a true master is the ability to appear humble and let their work speak for itself.

Mark -

Can someone please help in disassembling, The left side? The sound and the base is comparatively very low on the left side. Would really mean a lot if someone can help me. Or knows why it's like that

Ali Ahmed - Reply

Hey Mark!

Can u help me with my studio beats 2.0?

If u read this, please respond me on my mail: mrzspb@gmail.com (i wanna attach some photos)

Thanks.

Max 'no fear' from Saint-P - Reply

Thanks, this was super helpful! I had been considering attempting to fix my headphones but was afraid to damage them. Seeing the details of how it goes together beforehand helped a lot and I was able to fix my headphones with the "dead battery that doesn't charge" issue in just a few minutes, all without causing any visual damage! I may write up a guide on how to do the fix soon!

Sean McKeown - Reply

Glad to hear! And considering how many views this manual continues to get, I'd say a lot of people would find it a helpful guide.

Mark -

The Inside panel that says R is cracked from the middle, how would I replace it with a new panel and where can I find a new panel?

omar charakla - Reply

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