Tools Featured in this Teardown

Introduction

If you're looking to replace the retaining clip that holds the iPod door in, you might be out of luck. It seemed to be more work than was worth it in my case, but I was able to clean the circuit board with electronic contact cleaner, and I also cleaned all the aluminum grills and dust from the plastic.

Edit: Well, I ordered a sample from the company that provides the clip for the door, and you simply have to pull the broken door latch out with some pliers, then push the new one in, and your door works just like it's new! The name of the company is Richco, a part of Essentra Components, and the part number is DL-1X. They shipped two of them to me for free. Awesome!

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Altec Lansing iM7, use our service manual.

Image 1/2: Unscrew the two Phillips screws from the inside of the carry handle area. Image 2/2: Unscrew the two Phillips screws from the inside of the carry handle area.
  • Remove the rubber surround from the outside of the carry handle.

  • Unscrew the two Phillips screws from the inside of the carry handle area.

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Image 1/3: Lift the bottom plate off of the device. Image 2/3: Lift the bottom plate off of the device. Image 3/3: Lift the bottom plate off of the device.
  • Remove the two battery doors. Remove the 8 Phillips screws from the bottom of the device. This is easiest with a magnetic Phillips screwdriver.

  • Lift the bottom plate off of the device.

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Image 1/3: You can then remove the grill by tugging a bit on it.  There is adhesive keeping it stuck to the main body, so pull slowly. Image 2/3: You now have access to the side-firing subwoofer (and the passive driver on the other side).  You can remove the four Phillips screws and replace these speakers, if you're stopping here. Image 3/3: You now have access to the side-firing subwoofer (and the passive driver on the other side).  You can remove the four Phillips screws and replace these speakers, if you're stopping here.
  • Twist the side subwoofer grill counter-clockwise to release it from the case.

  • You can then remove the grill by tugging a bit on it. There is adhesive keeping it stuck to the main body, so pull slowly.

  • You now have access to the side-firing subwoofer (and the passive driver on the other side). You can remove the four Phillips screws and replace these speakers, if you're stopping here.

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Image 1/3: Pull the rear cover off of the main body.  The top will still be attached to a "clip-in" connection, so don't pull too hard just yet. Image 2/3: You can also remove the rubber lining from the carry handle for cleaning now. Image 3/3: You can also remove the rubber lining from the carry handle for cleaning now.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws in the remote control bay.

  • Pull the rear cover off of the main body. The top will still be attached to a "clip-in" connection, so don't pull too hard just yet.

  • You can also remove the rubber lining from the carry handle for cleaning now.

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Image 1/3: Do this on both sides, and you can now clean the rear plastic of the device. Image 2/3: Do this on both sides, and you can now clean the rear plastic of the device. Image 3/3: Do this on both sides, and you can now clean the rear plastic of the device.
  • You can now remove the two rear mesh aluminum grills. They simply clip on to the top and bottom, so you only have to pull them off. The top has adhesive applied to it.

  • Do this on both sides, and you can now clean the rear plastic of the device.

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Image 1/1: The unit clips in almost parallel with the surface the iM7 is sitting on, when upright.
  • Remove the rear white plastic area by slowly prying it up with a flat head screwdriver. Be sure to only pry at the top (near the power button), since that's where the piece clips in.

  • The unit clips in almost parallel with the surface the iM7 is sitting on, when upright.

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Image 1/2: This is a good opportunity to clean the amplifier's circuitry with electronic contact cleaner. Image 2/2: This is a good opportunity to clean the amplifier's circuitry with electronic contact cleaner.
  • You can now pull off the back half of the device to expose the amplifier an internal circuitry.

  • This is a good opportunity to clean the amplifier's circuitry with electronic contact cleaner.

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Image 1/3: I chose to not remove the dock portion because I didn't want to disconnect any wires from the board, but if you're doing a repair, feel free to take this even further.  You should have made it far enough through the teardown to get as far as you need from here. Image 2/3: To replace the door latch, you actually don't have to take the unit apart at all. Just request a sample of part DL-1X from Richco Components, and they'll send you two for free! Pull the old one out with pliers (little black clip), and push the new one in until it 'snaps' into place. Image 3/3: To replace the door latch, you actually don't have to take the unit apart at all. Just request a sample of part DL-1X from Richco Components, and they'll send you two for free! Pull the old one out with pliers (little black clip), and push the new one in until it 'snaps' into place.
  • The dock piece is connected to the circuit board via wires that you can see move while you pull it forward.

  • I chose to not remove the dock portion because I didn't want to disconnect any wires from the board, but if you're doing a repair, feel free to take this even further. You should have made it far enough through the teardown to get as far as you need from here.

  • To replace the door latch, you actually don't have to take the unit apart at all. Just request a sample of part DL-1X from Richco Components, and they'll send you two for free! Pull the old one out with pliers (little black clip), and push the new one in until it 'snaps' into place.

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Casey Friday

Member since: 02/21/2013

207 Reputation

1 Guide authored

22 Comments

As i can see it's the same D class amps used in my Altec IMT-800.

These devices are very powerfull and the sound quality is present for D class.

If someone have some schematic i would be very happy to have a look!

Altec construction is quite complicated but the case (for my IMT800) is VERY resistant.

I don't regret my 240Euro spent on it at all

Thanks

Nico - Reply

Yeah I had to have a go at mine when I started having speakers go out one by one and it took forever but like nico said about his, ITS WORTH IT! I've never been more impressed by any stereo as much as this model particularly. And mine was not a living room fixture by any means at all, I dragged it from job site to job site beatin on it (and out it) day after day loud as it could go and it's STILL going! I'll be MOST grateful for ANY more info you come across, thx.

-BeniBacon

Benjamin Thompson - Reply

The only thing I don't like about mine is that sometimes when I turn it on, it emits an insanely loud whistle noise that feels like it's going to pierce my ear drums. I thought cleaning it with contact cleaner would fix that, but it didn't. I wish I knew what was causing it, because it makes me afraid to turn it on!

When it doesn't do that whistling noise though, man this is the best sounding iPod stereo I've ever heard!

Casey Friday - Reply

Well, I haven't been able to figure out why I get the loud feedback noise when I turn this on occasionally, so I went ahead and upgraded to a Kicker iK501. Very similar to the iM7, and although I'll always have a soft spot in my heart for the iM7, the Kicker is a very, very nice 30-pin iPod dock.

Casey Friday - Reply

Well, I ordered a sample from the company that provides the clip for the door, and you simply have to pull the broken door latch out with some pliers, then push the new one in, and your door works just like it's new! The name of the company is Richco, a part of Essentra Components, and the part number is DL-1X. They shipped two of them to me for free. Awesome!

Casey Friday - Reply

Any advice about how to get the door latch out? I presume I have to grab it by the base, rather than by the actual clip, but I can't get a good grip on it with the needle-nosed pliers

(It'd be easier if I could get the iPod door off, but that seems to be a lot more work...)

Christopher Allen - Reply

I was able to get a relatively good grip with needle nose pliers, without taking anything apart. You just have to gently pull it out, and it'll pop right out.

Casey Friday -

I used to connect it to my my iphone but a while back it sounded like a fuse popped and since then it doesn´t play any music. What to do?

abswe - Reply

2 questions:

- where can I order replacement remote control? Altec Lansing support for Legacy products is non-existent and the resellers on eBay look questionable.

- what is the part number for the left end speaker (looking from the front). Mine is blown and needs to be replaced not certain if it's the sub.

Christian Overgaard - Reply

Christian,

I have seen used OEM remotes on eBay ~20USD and aftermarket replacement remotes for ~30USD on eBay and @ Newegg.

On your speakers, if there is no/very little bass (and this unit can put out a lot of bass!) your "sub" is out. Either way, there should be a part number on the magnet of the speaker that can get you started. This eBay listing might help:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Altec-Lansing-Im... .

Good Hunting!

-R

RexMonroe -

Hi. Thanks for this useful tut. Any advice on how to clean the metal grids from food, drink stains etc? Alcohol does not work. Also, can the front grid be removed for cleaning?

Eddief - Reply

I love my IM7's and even after more than 8 years they really sound so good. Anyway, occasionally they're playing up. I turn them on, the blue light is on, but no sound. Normally there is a second or two delay after turning them on. Then like a bassy thud that indicates they're on. Not hearing that thud means I'll get no sound. The volume buttons aren't really working. But it's always on full volume as default when it is alive. Any ideas??

Josh - Reply

All of the sudden mine is emitting loud static and popping sounds. I cleaned all of the cables, but it is still happening. I believe it has to do with the power input. Can the transformer go bad?

Brad - Reply

I cannot twist the side subwoofer grill counter from case. Who can help me???

James guo - Reply

We have had our IM7 for quite awhile and like others love it. It has now developed a problem. When I turn it on the music will play for a short time a minute or so and then the unit shuts down. I can remove the I Pod and try to turn the IM on and it will not power up. Any suggestions?

HBEAR - Reply

my unit is no longer powering on for some reason. Either with batteries or AC power. Does anyone have a possible solution for this?

nycfilmpro - Reply

Same problems for me, blue light turns on for a sec then nothing. This may be the solution but this is another model and I can't find the equivalent DIP switch: https://youtu.be/i3L4JHM_GcQ

snytron -

First off, I've got to say that this is the best speaker that I have EVER had!! I love it!! I've been noticing for some time now that one of the speakers or something on the front right side make a slight static/rattling noise with certain frequencies (certain songs) like with the higher mid sounds. I used my phone light to shine through the grill, and there is a weird box thing above the middle size speaker on the front. Is this what is making the sound? Should I tighten anything down on the inside or what? Any answer will help, cuz I really want to fix it, THIS THING ROCKS!! Thank you!

Joshua Tucker - Reply

Hi there. Question. It seems my right side speaker is going out. Not the sun but the speaker to the right of the dock. I've taken it entirely apart and and it vibrates and has a tiny bit of noise but that's it. Really noticeable that sound I still only coming from the left speaker. When it's on but not playing anything it has that sssshhhhh sound but not to loud. Only had it for a few weeks, Goodwill for $7!, and it thumped but now it seems that speaker is blown. There are no loose wires or bad connections. Please help!

Aaron - Reply

On Step 3, this is not correct. It is NOT just twisting off to remove the side panels, you may have to pry it off. First remove the screw holding the white hook thing. On the very edge of the black plastic part, there are 4 plastic rectangular tabs where the side panels are GLUED. One tab is straight across from the hook thing, the other two are exactly on each side. Lift the side panel up from the white hook part, then just use a flat screwdriver and push as far as you can, starting with the side tabs and pry it slowly as you go around the circle. Stay on the edge and be careful not to poke your subwoofers. ...Love these speakers!!

Thanh Tran - Reply

Hmmmmm. Need a new plastic door catch for my beloved IM7. I live in the UK. Searching around, it looks as if the company now providing these is called Digi-Key electronics, a US company. I've just been in touch with them and requested a sample but they tell me it is a non-stock item and I need to order 500 of them at the princely sum of 375 USD!! Lol. Don't think so. As it happens, the dock itself still works fine even if the door won't close but I'd like to fix it if it's possible. Anyone think of a way round this?

Dodgy Geezah - Reply

Continued my search. These latches are the same ones as those used on computer cases etc. Standard size DL-1. No longer produced by Richco. Found some on ebay but could only buy a pack of 11. However they are exactly right and fit perfectly. As stated in previous posts the old ones just pull out and the new ones push in. Therefore I have a few too many so if anyone still wants one I'll post one to you for £2.50. Drop me an email to dodgygeezah@blueyonder.co.uk. Cheers.

Dodgy Geezah -

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