Danger
Potentially Dangerous
Injury may result if this procedure is not followed properly. Use caution and follow all warnings.
Danger

Tools Featured in this Teardown

Introduction

The 1911 Pistol, unquestionably the greatest sidearm ever made. Name anything else that was created 102 years ago that the design still works today! (The name refers to the year 1911, when it was adopted by the US military, one year after the prototype 1910).

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your 1911A1 45 Cal, use our service manual.

This is you classic 1911A1 style sidearm. I will be using my 1911R1 Pearl Harbor commemorative made by Remington. Check the slide to verify your model. WARNING! Treat every weapon as if it is loaded. Before disassembling be absolutly sure your weapon is unloaded. Skipping this step can Kill you.
  • This is you classic 1911A1 style sidearm. I will be using my 1911R1 Pearl Harbor commemorative made by Remington. Check the slide to verify your model.

  • WARNING! Treat every weapon as if it is loaded. Before disassembling be absolutly sure your weapon is unloaded. Skipping this step can Kill you.

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Use flathead to remove 4 screws (2 on each side) to remove the grips. Use flathead to remove 4 screws (2 on each side) to remove the grips.
  • Use flathead to remove 4 screws (2 on each side) to remove the grips.

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Push the Barrel wrench down over the barrel bushing, pressing the recoil spring retainer down to unlock the bushing, and rotate clockwise. Spring is under alot of pressure, ensure you keep firm pressure on the retainer as you rotate and slowly lift up to avoid retainer from flying across the room or in your eye! Set retainer aside and rotate counter-clockwise on barrel bushing (its loose now) until locking tab is pointing at the spring, then lift it out.
  • Push the Barrel wrench down over the barrel bushing, pressing the recoil spring retainer down to unlock the bushing, and rotate clockwise.

  • Spring is under alot of pressure, ensure you keep firm pressure on the retainer as you rotate and slowly lift up to avoid retainer from flying across the room or in your eye!

  • Set retainer aside and rotate counter-clockwise on barrel bushing (its loose now) until locking tab is pointing at the spring, then lift it out.

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Pull the slide back until the slide catch lines up with the disassembly notch on the slide. Push the opposite side of the slide catch and the catch will pop out. Remove slide catch and pull the slide off the receiver.
  • Pull the slide back until the slide catch lines up with the disassembly notch on the slide.

  • Push the opposite side of the slide catch and the catch will pop out.

  • Remove slide catch and pull the slide off the receiver.

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Now that we got the slide off the receiver, we'll work on the slide first and be getting to the receiver later. Pull the recoil spring out towards the rear. Make sure barrel link is flat against the barrel and remove it out the front of the slide.
  • Now that we got the slide off the receiver, we'll work on the slide first and be getting to the receiver later.

  • Pull the recoil spring out towards the rear.

  • Make sure barrel link is flat against the barrel and remove it out the front of the slide.

  • At this point we have taken down the weapon to whats called "Field Stripped". If you just needed to do a quick clean, replace the barrel, or recoil spring/guide rod this is all you need. For deep cleaning after shooting we'll keep going.

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Black Friday
Broken doesn't stand a chance.
Next we will remove the firing pin and extractor from the slide. This is the pin block for the firing pin. Note, this block (and 2 other parts in the receiver are only on series 80 style 1911s, not series 70) Using one brass punch, press down on the firing pin block and with the other punch, press in on the firing pin.
  • Next we will remove the firing pin and extractor from the slide.

  • This is the pin block for the firing pin. Note, this block (and 2 other parts in the receiver are only on series 80 style 1911s, not series 70)

  • Using one brass punch, press down on the firing pin block and with the other punch, press in on the firing pin.

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While pushing in on the firing pin, lift up on the punch holding the pin in and slide the firing pin retainer out of the slide. Firing pin is under pressure. While not enough to hurt you, it can fly out across the room. For those with series 80 styles, you can lift up on the firing pin block and it will catch the firing pin as you take the retainer plate off.
  • While pushing in on the firing pin, lift up on the punch holding the pin in and slide the firing pin retainer out of the slide.

  • Firing pin is under pressure. While not enough to hurt you, it can fly out across the room. For those with series 80 styles, you can lift up on the firing pin block and it will catch the firing pin as you take the retainer plate off.

  • Series 70 styles will not have the pin block to press down on so you just use the punch on the firing pin.

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Remove the firing pin block. You can just shake it out, or if its kinda stuck from carbon, big tweezers help. This part is small and easily lost. Be careful, you lose it, your weapon wont fire. This is the extractor. It pulls out your spent cases (and tosses them in your buddy's face if they stand too close when shooting lol)
  • Remove the firing pin block. You can just shake it out, or if its kinda stuck from carbon, big tweezers help.

  • This part is small and easily lost. Be careful, you lose it, your weapon wont fire.

  • This is the extractor. It pulls out your spent cases (and tosses them in your buddy's face if they stand too close when shooting lol)

  • If the weapon is fairly new, or gummed up, use a punce to coax it out by tapping it to the rear. Otherwise, you may be able to just push it out with your finger.

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Here's the extractor. When shooting, the extractor housing gets very, very dirty. Clean well with Q-tips and cleaner to prevent extracting problems when shooting. Here are all the parts for the slide assembly.
  • Here's the extractor. When shooting, the extractor housing gets very, very dirty. Clean well with Q-tips and cleaner to prevent extracting problems when shooting.

  • Here are all the parts for the slide assembly.

  • This part only in series 80 styles.

  • Now, on to the receiver!

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Using a brass punch, slowly knock out the main housing spring pin. Make sure the hammer is forward and not pulled back! The spring in the main housing provided pressure for the hammer. Your punch will be difficult to remove and the main housing can fly off when you pull the punch out if the hammer is pulled back. Remove the main housing to reveil the Sear/Trigger/Grip Safety spring (This is a flat leaf spring so no worries about parts flying everywhere). It will just fall out or shake it out (tweezers not needed, just used to show spring placment).
  • Using a brass punch, slowly knock out the main housing spring pin.

  • Make sure the hammer is forward and not pulled back! The spring in the main housing provided pressure for the hammer. Your punch will be difficult to remove and the main housing can fly off when you pull the punch out if the hammer is pulled back.

  • Remove the main housing to reveil the Sear/Trigger/Grip Safety spring (This is a flat leaf spring so no worries about parts flying everywhere). It will just fall out or shake it out (tweezers not needed, just used to show spring placment).

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Pull the hammer back. Now pull the thumb safety out of the frame. You'll need to wiggle it between safe and fire to release it from the hammer spur. The hammer must be pulled back to get this part out. The pin that holds the safety in position is under alot of pressure. it WILL fly out, so hold your hand next to it to stop it from flying out the window at the house next door. Plus this part is tiny, you lose it, you may not find it again.
  • Pull the hammer back. Now pull the thumb safety out of the frame.

  • You'll need to wiggle it between safe and fire to release it from the hammer spur. The hammer must be pulled back to get this part out.

  • The pin that holds the safety in position is under alot of pressure. it WILL fly out, so hold your hand next to it to stop it from flying out the window at the house next door. Plus this part is tiny, you lose it, you may not find it again.

  • See above

  • Once the thumb safety is removed, the grip safety will come out easily.

  • These 2 pins can be removed with finger pressure. The bigger one is for the trigger, and we'll take that out first.

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Push up on the trigger pin to remove it. These are ment to be loose fitting for easy teardown. Once pin is out, the hammer will just slide out. The next step is only on series 80 styles. Underneath the hammer is the safety lever that pushes up on the firing pin block in the slide when the trigger is pulled.
  • Push up on the trigger pin to remove it. These are ment to be loose fitting for easy teardown.

  • Once pin is out, the hammer will just slide out.

  • The next step is only on series 80 styles. Underneath the hammer is the safety lever that pushes up on the firing pin block in the slide when the trigger is pulled.

  • Remove safety lever, it will just fall out (tweezers are just for show).

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Now we come to the trigger control group. Now these are easy to take out, but an absolute pain to put back in on series 80 styles (70 styles not so hard since there is no safety actuator). Pull out smaller pin, then just shake the little parts out. You can also take them out 1 at a time to see how they go back in (tweezers help). Safety actuator (on series 80 styles only)
  • Now we come to the trigger control group. Now these are easy to take out, but an absolute pain to put back in on series 80 styles (70 styles not so hard since there is no safety actuator).

  • Pull out smaller pin, then just shake the little parts out. You can also take them out 1 at a time to see how they go back in (tweezers help).

  • Safety actuator (on series 80 styles only)

  • Disconnector (disconnects sear from hammer, allowing it to fall onto the firing pin)

  • Sear (holds hammer in place (cocked) until trigger is pulled)

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While pressing on the magazine release, use a small flathead (or the narrow angled edge of your leaf spring from the grip, it was designed with this purpose in mind) and turn the screw 90 degrees and it will pop loose for removal. While pressing on the magazine release, use a small flathead (or the narrow angled edge of your leaf spring from the grip, it was designed with this purpose in mind) and turn the screw 90 degrees and it will pop loose for removal. While pressing on the magazine release, use a small flathead (or the narrow angled edge of your leaf spring from the grip, it was designed with this purpose in mind) and turn the screw 90 degrees and it will pop loose for removal.
  • While pressing on the magazine release, use a small flathead (or the narrow angled edge of your leaf spring from the grip, it was designed with this purpose in mind) and turn the screw 90 degrees and it will pop loose for removal.

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Press in on the trigger, then remove it from the rear of the frame. Congrats! Complete receiver disassembly. Congrats! Complete receiver disassembly.
  • Press in on the trigger, then remove it from the rear of the frame.

  • Congrats! Complete receiver disassembly.

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Wraithvenge

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