iPod Nano 2nd Generation Battery Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

  • Author: iRobot
  • Difficulty: Very difficult

Battery not lasting long? Swap it out (requires soldering).

Relevant Parts

Edit Step 1 Case Assembly  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 1 Case Assembly  ¶ 

  • Before opening your iPod, ensure that the hold switch is in the locked position.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Carefully insert an iPod opening tool in the seam between the metal casing and white plastic top.

  • Lift the top bezel off the iPod. It's glued on using a mild adhesive, so some force may be required.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • When removing the bottom bezel, be sure not to bend the plastic surrounding the dock connector.

  • Carefully insert an iPod opening tool in the seam between the metal casing and white plastic bezel.

  • Lift the bottom bezel off the iPod. It's glued on using a mild adhesive, so some force may be required.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One #00 Phillips screw with a large head near the headphone jack.

    • One #00 Phillips screw with a smaller head near the side of the iPod. This screw strips easily, so be sure to press down firmly on the screwdriver.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a metal spudger to carefully pry the headphone jack out of the casing. DO NOT remove the headphone jack from the iPod entirely, as it is connected via a fragile ribbon connector to the click wheel.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Slide the headphone jack out until the white plastic housing is no longer held in place by the metal casing.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Remove the newly-revealed Phillips #00 screw from beneath the headphone jack. Be careful, this screw is easily stripped.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Lift the bottom bezel bracket out of the iPod.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the top of the iPod.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • The highlighted connector attaches the click wheel and headphone jack to the logic board. This cable must be disconnected from the logic board before continuing.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable from the logic board. You need to gently pry the connector toward (or up, if you like, the connector is like LEGO® building blocks) the front of the iPod until it comes loose from the logic board.

  • Special hint for the reassembly: Push the connector inside until it is over the corresponding connector of the logic board. Then insert a thin tool over the connector and push it down onto the logic boards connector.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to push the logic board through the iPod out of the casing. The click wheel and headphone jack should remain in the iPod.

  • Be careful not to catch the headphone jack and click wheel on the logic board as you remove the logic board and display.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • When removing the logic board, place the tip of the spudger into the hole where you removed the screw and gently push it out. The crevice will keep it in place and decrease the chance of you damaging your board.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Completely remove the display and logic board from the metal casing.

  • When reassembling, ensure that the battery is well seated. If the fit is too tight, the edge of the display will score the inside of the screen window.

Edit Step 15 Battery  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 15 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to scrape away the black glue covering the three battery wires.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Peel up the orange tape covering the three solder points on the other side of the logic board.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Place the desoldering wick on top of the existing solder ball.

  • Place the soldering iron on top of wick above the existing solder ball.

  • Hold the soldering iron in place until the solder melts into the wick.

  • Repeat the same procedure on the remaining two connectors.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Be careful not to scrape the metal rings surrounding the connectors off the logic board. If you accidentally scrape these off, you won't be able to reconnect the replacement battery.

  • Use a metal spudger to carefully straighten the battery wires. Be sure to only touch one contact at a time.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Pull the battery wires through the logic board to free the battery. If the wires don't easily come free, make sure the wires are straight and all the solder has been removed.

  • Slide the three wires of the replacement battery through the holes in the logic board. Going from the edge of the iPod, the order of wires is black, red, white.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Bend the wires over to prevent them from sliding out of the logic board.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Place the soldering iron onto the battery wire and metal connector for one to two seconds to heat them up.

  • Add the solder wire and wait for the solder to melt onto the wire. Once a small bead has formed around the wire, lift the solder away first and then remove the soldering iron.

  • Continue with the other two connections the same way, taking special care not to solder two of the connectors together.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPod Nano 2nd Generation device page.

Required Tools

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Metal Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Desoldering Braid

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Unfortunately, could not get adhesive off of battery wires without damaging one of the pads. Also, the solder would not flow to the braid and so am unable to clear solder off of holes-not that it matters at this point. Looks like a failure for now.

Robert Cellucci, · Reply

I'm not very good with solder wick, so I pulled out my trusty "solder sucker" and got the holes cleaned out. It's kind of brute force, but it worked.

Jeff D, · Reply

Firstly, I ruined my iPod because these instructions are inadequate and do not describe the actual difficulty level which is high. Secondly, fluxed desoldering braid of the appropriate size should be INCLUDED in the kit. It's not like one can go to Home Depot and get the stuff, so it should be included. Two inches of the braid out of a 10' roll(which costs on the average $3 retail) is all that would be required. This screwed me. Thirdly, desoldering the tiny battery terminals requires a fine tip iron. No mention of that.

I ruined the Nano but I'm not too upset as I have another one which will need a battery change sometime as well so I'll just save the trashed one to use for parts and use this battery when the time comes. However the iFixit people need to re-evaluate the kit AND the instructions and make some revisions. iFixit assumes that everyone was born with microsoldering skills and has all the appropriate equipment and that is just not true.

Gus, · Reply

I got all the way to the end without any issues. I had to use a pin/needle to clear the holes for the wire a little, but otherwise it went smoothly. But at the very end, when I went to snap the headphone jack ribbon back in, it was somehow pinched and came right off. Since I was pretty careful at the beginning it had to have been when I was pushing everything back together. Junk now. But close!

jalex, · Reply

I logged this as a success, but I actually wound up stripping the screw on this step (I printed out earlier instructions that didn't have the warning). Reassembled it without said screw and I'm hoping for the best!

anja, · Reply

The screw on this step also stripped when I was following this tutorial, despite being very careful and taking the time for everything. This really happens _REALLY_ easily!

I too reassembled the iPod without this particular screw. So far I've noticed no side-effects from this.

Ultimately I was able to complete the whole guide and repair the Nano succesfully! :-D

wil, · Reply

When reassembling, the jack connector cable broke :'( iPod woking fine, with a new battery.... but no more sound. Grrrr

TheRV, · Reply

The headphone ribbon and the click wheel is on the top side of the cover, so be sure to apply force toward the down side to avoid scratching the click wheel's PCB.

lioneltailhardat, · Reply

When sliding back the logic board, watch out not to put too much stress on the side with the screen and the window, cause it may lead to annoying stripes on your window

Jasper Jonkman, · Reply

Is it necessary to solder the wires at the board? Is it possible to just clip them and then solder the wires together, or somehow reconnect the new wires with the old clipped wires from the board? Just curious. Seems like it could be easier since you wouldn't need to remove the old solder, but I don't know much about this type of thing. Thanks!

Lark Davis, · Reply

that should work too, it is the less clean solution, but it takes away some of the potential to fail...

5mark,

Before beginning the unsoldering I cut all battery wires near the battery to prevent shortening battery or board. I then commenced to step 17, 18 and 19 with the battery already detached. Instead of pulling the wires out of their soldering holes with the battery I used a little plier to pull each of them out. Holding the soldering iron to the pad on the other side while pulling with the plier makes that quite easy.

Alexander Schwab, · Reply

I did the same thing too!

eharada,

Or you can use a "Solder Sucker" that has a plastic tip so it's less likely to short out.

eharada, · Reply

There is some double-sided tape affixing the battery to the central area of the assembly... the spudger can be used to slide down the edges first to lift, then to slide between the battery and tape.

jasonbuechler, · Reply

use the solder wick again after the old battery wires are removed to clean up the holes, this makes instering the new wires easier.

Rob, · Reply

You can use the "Blue" masking tape to insulate the new battery wires. Also you can use the "Blue" Masking tape to hold in the wires and the battery before soldering. Reason for the "Blue" tape is it's less sticky and leaves no residue.

eharada, · Reply

View Statistics:

Today: 1

This Week: 118

This Month: 163

All Time: 177,022