Introduction

Use this guide to replace the display assembly on your iPhone 5c.

The display assembly is made up of the LCD, front glass, digitizer, front-facing camera and sensor cable assembly, and home button assembly.

To replace a bare front panel, made up of only the LCD and front glass, you need to be on this guide.

Video Overview

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

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Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.8 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning connector.

to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

V. Jones - Reply

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 5.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

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Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

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Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

cool i diden't now

Ben Lewis Murray Dyne - Reply

very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

bromanmoon - Reply

Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly. While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

Dan - Reply

Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

duston -

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
  • Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

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Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

Joe Shirghio - Reply

I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

Michael Allen - Reply

Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

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Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector up off the logic board.
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector up off the logic board.

Why do we need to disconnect the battery?

Maria Raesch - Reply

Sorry, I missed the comments on step 9 that detail the procedure.

Maria Raesch - Reply

Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

Jona Wolff - Reply

Remove the following  Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:
  • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.25 mm screw

  • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 3.25 mm screw or the 1.7 mm screw in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

  • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size, don't force them.

In step 9: I think you are talking about the 3,25 and 1,7mm one not the 1,3 and the 1,7mm?

Siegbert Waldner - Reply

DO NOT Remove the battery, there is no need to and can cause unnecessary damage! There's a tutorial on YouTube that does it without!

Alister Malcolm - Reply

I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

jacobstevens - Reply

I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

Fredrick Apel - Reply

I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

K Jansen - Reply

When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

Chandler Perez - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

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Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector. Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

  • Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.

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Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the LCD cable connector. The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display. When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the LCD cable connector.

    • The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display.

  • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

Harold Wallner - Reply

This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

vince -

Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

terrymccallum -

There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

piet - Reply

Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

duston -

When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

jimbbo - Reply

If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

iBroke -

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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25 Comments

don't forget the 3 smaller of the 4 screws are different sizes on the silver panel!

djranoia - Reply

Yeah, I learned that one the hard way when I dropped the 1.6 mm screw onto my carpet. But, thank God, I found the screw after several minutes of searching for it. The entire display replacement from a cracked screen went nice and smooth. It actually tool me less than 20-minutes to complete the process. Thanks iFixit!!!

ebibbs -

How do I know if I'm ordering a white or black front screen? Also what's the difference between the 35$ from amazon or the 95$ from here?

Nicholas - Reply

The top and bottom on the back of the white iPhone 5 is made out of ceramic glass. The top and bottom on the back of the black iPhone 5 is made out of pigmented glass. Hope that helps! I use ReVampWholesales for parts, decently priced, just bought a black 5C full assembly (buttons and everything) for $44.50 with $8 shipping (pretty quick too). Amazon is very good too.

Andrew -

This guide misses a few things: after removing the old display, you will need to remove the silver backing/shield, the home button and the camera (be very careful when pulling the copper tape from the silver panel so not to tear it.) You will then need to place these in the new display. This is another 9? screws or so. I think the iPhone 5 page has this guide (it's pretty much the same thing.)

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I always order the cheapest displays from Amazon (about $30 right now with free shipping for Prime members.) They always work just fine for me -- none of these parts is "officially from Apple" (they're all Chinese knockoffs.)

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On a further note, be VERY careful when plugging the new screen to the mainboard - the FPC connector pins can BEND and BREAK if you force the connector. Broken pins require very careful hot air/reflow soldering of the mainboard and a new FPC connector: not recommended for novices!

Joshua - Reply

It depends on where you buy the replacement part. The display assembly iFixit sells for the 5c comes pre-assembled with the home button, front camera, earpiece speaker, and the LCD shield plate already in place, which makes for an easier repair. You're absolutely correct in that if your main concern is getting the cheapest price on the part, you'll need to spend some additional time transferring those bits from the old display to the new one. And—ta-da!—we've got a guide for that.

Jeff Suovanen -

any help or guidance would be appreciated: bought the full replacement for the 5c screen, changed it and it still is not working. Last night it just showed the apple on the screen. this morning nothing.

angelareynolds56 - Reply

Please be aware that like In the 5S, using the wrong screws in the plate that covers these connectors can damage tracks in the motherboard. If your phone no longer boots, look in the two bottom screw threads and see if you can see a visible ring where the screw has dug into the board, or any signs of copper.

If you happen to make this mistake, and are in Australia, we can repair this, as well as replace damaged FPC'S, ect. Contact me on benduffy@itzcomputers.com.au for more info on mail in repairs. If you are in other parts of the world, I can likely refer you to someone closer to your location who can help you.

Ben Duffy - Reply

when I took my phone to be repaired, they said I had a part missing in my phone, I can't remember what it was, but I have a deadzone on the bottom right of the screen which is annoying because I cant dismiss some notifications.

rylando - Reply

Just completed this. While it took a bit longer than expected, the 5C is now back in operating order. My complication came in that the new part had a very cantankerous front camera cable that just wouldn't align in the reverse order of disassembly. I had to get it connected first, then the LCD connector, then the digitizer. After that exercise, I got the white lines/bars and so had to undo it all again and try once more. 3rd time was a charm!

ronaldehayes - Reply

FLAWLESS VICTORY!!!! Thanks guys/gals. The screen kit, everything went great. Too bad you don't sell color screens. My sister would have loved that.

mvgalloway5 - Reply

Did the repair , got the white lines in the display. Opened phone up again , disconnected battery and re connected display. Powered up again and everything was good. Disconnecting battery should be in the guide for sure. Overall very pleased with the kit.

josephgebert - Reply

Did anyone else have an extremely difficult time removing the screws from the LCD Shield Plate? I can't even get them to turn a small amount. So frustrating -- everything was a piece of cake up to this.

McLain McGrath - Reply

I replaced a broken 5c screen with this display assambly. Opening was easy, but it took me half an hour to replace these 3 contacts. Than I had white stripes and lost the 1,7mm screw!! I took one similar from the old display. White stripes were away, when i put the display in the backcover. And hurray, all works fine!

veltea - Reply

I replaced the battery but now the home button does not work. What did I do wrong or what do I need to do make it work? Plz help!!

Pat Magliolo - Reply

I bought my screen from FixEZ.com. What a mistake that was. The first one had a bad proximity sensor. Bought a replacement. The second flat out didn't work and both fit like garbage. Despite them saying their screens are new, both had fingerprints and sticker residue on the back sides.

Finally came to iFixit like I should have from the start and the screen is perfect. Can't tell the difference between this screen and the original. iFixit from here on out, you guys rock!

Tech Savvy - Reply

Thank you for the guide. It was very helpful.

Mike - Reply

Please add a link to the bottom to front panel assembly: iPhone 5c Front Panel Replacement

grsshpprkm - Reply

I followed the instructions and the screen is still black. I disconnected the battery as well and that was a no go. Anybody know what to do?

Ubaldo Rodriguez - Reply

Didn't work. :( My old screen had died after I dropped the phone a few too many times (wouldn't display anything at all), so I bought a replacement from this site. Opened the phone, disconnected the battery, removed the old display assembly and plugged in the new one. Then plugged the battery back in and tried turning the phone on to see if the new display works and that it's not some problem with the phone itself - sure enough, got the "low battery" icon on the screen.

Unplugged the battery again and disconnected the new display as I still had to transfer the home button. After doing that, plugged the display back in, screwed the connector cover back on, plugged the battery in, and tested again - this time, nothing at all. Tried a few times to take it apart and put it back together, but to no avail. My only guess is that I could've damaged the cables when putting the connector cover back on. Not really willing to try buying a new display (and risk the same thing happening again) to test that theory, though.

Mikhail Mikhailov - Reply

Replaced my teenager's iPhone screen. Of course he dropped it while reading and walking at the same time. D'oh!

I should have posted about 9 months ago when I did this. The directions are great, the part was a perfect replacement. Took about 30 minutes and the new screen was in and working fine. The connectors are very difficult to line up, so just take your time, don't force things. Do this when you haven't had a lot of coffee and you are relaxed. Organize your screws when you take them out on a white piece of paper oriented with the brackets in relationship to a phone drawn on the paper.

I give it 5 out of 5. Saved me some d'oh and dough!

iFixit Rocks!

scottcnevin - Reply

omg thank u so much, this is going to be my only phone for 4 more years ;)

Marre Smith - Reply

great guide! :)

Kamiel Cherlet - Reply

Easy to follow instructions. Thank you.

Esmael Ostadi - Reply

I fixed my son's iPhone 5C broken screen following the iFixit video and instructions – which are excellent! I needed to organise things carefully, follow the instructions in the video and take my time. I put it all back together and it worked first time :-)

Tip: the screws are tiny and easy to lose, so I suggest using a container with raised edges to contain them. I used strips of PostIt notes to labels the different parts.

Thank you iFixit – your instructions are by far the best that I found online!

Bill Jones - Reply

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