iPhone 4S Upper Antenna Replacement

Replace the small antenna attached to the headphone jack of your iPhone 4S.

Use this guide to replace your iPhone's upper antenna.

Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pull the rear panel away from the back of the iPhone, being careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • Remove the rear panel from the iPhone.

Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently detach the battery connector from the socket on the device. Start lifting off the connector from the bottom side, by placing the tip of the tool between the loudspeaker enclosure and the metal cover of the connector.

  • The battery connector comes off vertically from the logic board. Do not apply force sideways.

  • Pay attention to the pressure contact underneath the top screw of the battery connector. This may come loose while prying the battery connector from its socket.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pull the pressure contact from underneath the battery connector.

  • When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.

  • Take notice of the position of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector. This clip is attached only by the upper screw. When reinstalling, it must be aligned so the gold contact point will press against the back cover.

  • Be careful not to rip off the battery connector socket soldered on the logic board. There are 4 very small soldering points awaiting this mistake!

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the battery and the outer case near the bottom of the iPhone.

  • Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Remove the battery.

Edit Step 8 Dock Connector Cable  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8 Dock Connector Cable  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the dock connector cable cover to the logic board:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips screw

  • Remove the metal dock connector cable cover.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cellular antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  • De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

Edit Step 12 Rear Camera  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12 Rear Camera  ¶ 

  • Be wary of the outer plastic ring located on top of the rear camera's flash assembly. It can be easily displaced if not removed during disassembly.

  • You can use tweezers, a plastic opening tool, or a spudger to remove the outer plastic ring.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the following four screws securing the cable cover to the logic board:

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips screw

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board.

  • Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top and remove it from the iPhone.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.

  • Remove the rear camera from the iPhone.

  • There is a small rubber gasket that sits underneath the rear-facing camera. Make sure that it is properly seated before reassembly.

Edit Step 16 SIM Card  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16 SIM Card  ¶ 

  • Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

  • Remove the SIM card and its holder.

Edit Step 17 Logic Board  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Remove the five cables near the top of the logic board in the following order:

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable

    • Front facing camera cable

    • Digitizer cable

    • Display data cable

    • Power button cable (located underneath the headphone jack/volume button cable as shown in the second picture.)

  • To disconnect the cables, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently lift their connectors up and out of the sockets on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any of the small and delicate surface mount components as you disconnect the cables.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the grounding clip to the logic board near the headphone jack.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small grounding clip up off the logic board.

  • Carefully grasp the grounding clip and remove it from the iPhone.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the grounding clip (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna from the logic board.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • If present, peel the piece of black tape covering the hidden screw near the power button.

  • Remove the 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the logic board near the power button.

    • (Use caution when removing this screw and removing the power contact held by it; the contact tab will come loose with the screw)

  • Notice the small rubber bumper under the screen & digitizer cables (which are detached at top above the Q-code). This bumper can fall off of the logic board when removed or get stuck to the cables and fall off later.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the case:

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

    • One 3.6 mm standoff along the side of the logic board nearest the battery opening.

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the single 3.6 mm standoff.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the logic board from the end closest to the speaker enclosure and slide it away from the top edge of the iPhone.

  • Remove the logic board.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the logic board (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

  • There is a small rubber bumper that sits on the top edge of the logic board where the digitizer and screen cables come through the case. It protects the cables as they bend over the top of the logic board. This can either get stuck to the cables or fall off the logic board when it comes out. Look back over step 22 for more details.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button. This finger rests on top of the PCB, screwed down, and covered with the adhesive black plastic tape.

Edit Step 26 Upper Antenna  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26 Upper Antenna  ¶ 

  • Remove the 2.4 mm Phillips screw next to the headphone jack.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the upper antenna off the headphone jack.

  • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the upper antenna from the iPhone.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean the metal-to-metal contact point on the upper antenna (not the mating halves of its connector) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4S device page.

Required Tools

P2 Pentalobe Screwdriver iPhone

$7.95 · 50+ In stock

SIM Card Eject Tool

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #000 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

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Popular Device Products

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Comments Comments are onturn off

the upper antenna is the wifi antena?? or the thing by the speakers is the wifi antenna? i am a bit confused!

Jigar, · Reply

where can u buy this piece, Ive been searching for about an hour now, a friend of mine tried to fix their phone and ripped this piece off... no idea how... any help?

willsrepairs, · Reply

The guide is very good and I succeeded in opening the iphone and fixing back again all the parts. Unfortunately, the wi-fi module still doesn't work, I don't know why. Anyway, many thanks to all ifixit staff, since they are helpful, efficient and kind. Alberto from Italy

abragaglia62, · Reply

Just completed replacing the battery and the wifi antenna. Went swimmingly. Thanks for the great directions. You guys rock! This fixed my 4s wifi grayed out issue. One thing to note, they wifi antenna needs to click into the socket to get a good connection. Put it together without checking this the first time and, no go.... Opened it up and made sure the connection was good and wahlah... AWSOME!

kempilt, · Reply

Hello, I had the issue with the grayed out wifi button. I replaced the upper antenna and the cellular antenna. When I turned on the phone the wifi was still greyed out. Does anyone has any other suggestions how I could possibly fix it.

Thanks

marcodegaetano, · Reply

The Liberation Kit just stripped the screw. Now what.

nimpsy, · Reply

Had local iPhone repair shop remove the screw. Repair complete!

nimpsy,

I left the battery in and everything above the middle, using a pen knife to flex the logic board, I had plenty of room to else the old out and the new in.

Worked well and saved a lot of time.

Keith M, · Reply

After reviewing the steps I decided to follow this guy's advice and left the battery in.....one less item to possibly foul up. I don't know if it made it any faster (first time to open my phone, so nothing to compare it to) but I can say that my phone is charging for the first time in 6 months :D

Jennifer,

BEFORE YOU START:

1) This is doable but not easy, quick or without risk.

2) If this is your 1st time, the whole process can take >2 hours (half of it reading this fixit manual and notes, which I highly recommend!)

3) I highly recommend placing a large, thin clean white cloth on the table. This prevents screws from rolling around and you will clearly see anything falling out.

4) If you have them, use tight surgical (latex) gloves. This prevents you from greasing up contacts.

5) Have e.g. a big old egg box ready, so you can place the screws in order (and maybe write step/screw size on the side).

6) I bought my display from "Generic" on Amazon ($20.36). Screen works fine and tools were ok but not great (screw drivers do not withstand force needed to unscrew some).

7) I had my own 2mm Phillips screw driver and a 2.4mm flat (for the big screws).

8) Have a nice cold beer by your side! Good luck!

superedu111, · Reply

Sounds like this comment relates to a screen replacement, not a rear panel replacement. No way a rear panel replacement would take 2 hours - can be done in 2 minutes!

Jonathan Deamer,

I was paranoid about stripping the pentalobes - I used the ifixit pentalobe screwdriver TOGETHER with a layer of Glad Wrap (cling film or saran wrap for the non-Aussies) over the pentalobe holes - absolutely no problems. Guess it helps the driver head gain purchase?

Anyway hat tip to this guy:

http://modmyi.com/forums/hardware/806092...

jimforbes, · Reply

After seeing the comments about trouble finding the carrier, I shut down the phone, did a soft reset (by holding the power and home buttons until it started and then shut down and stayed off), and removed the SIM. After the repair, I replaced the SIM and plugged it in to the charger. It started up and found the carrier (Verizon, as it happens) immediately. I would guess that only the soft reset made a difference, but I did both.

DavidLewis, · Reply

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv, · Reply

Here's a little vacuum trick for anything small: put nylons/panty hose over the end of the hose and then you don't have to dig thru the bag contents.

paul,

how can i take out the screw if it is stripped

Manny Chaidez, · Reply

with a small driller, but I guess it is very difficult. Never attempted that myself on an iPhone.

lantzero,

There is no screw in Step 2?

Is the screw stripped or the head stripped?

I have used superglue on the screwdriver to remove a stripped screw, it would turn but not come out, with superglue I could turn and pull the screw out. May also work on a stripped head.

Trevor,

If you are careful, use a Dremel tool and a micro drill bit (sold where Dremel tools are purchased) to drill it out. Last resort kind of thing, good luck.

Jack, · Reply

Why isn't it moving? I removed my screws.

Thomas The Train, · Reply

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv, · Reply

On reassembly, be sure to clean the metal plate at the place of contact with the tiny pressure contact mentioned in step 4.

Harald Brandt, · Reply

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv, · Reply

On my phone at least, there is a small gold and black part held down under the top screw. It goes black side up with the pressure contact touching the back of the phone when the cover is in place. Keep an eye out for correct orientation as you dismantle.

James Molyneux, · Reply

I also had a small black and gold connector held down by the top screw on this step.

Kevin Keenan, · Reply

While the text refers to the pressure contact, the pictures do not show it clearly. The closet one that does has the yellow circle covering much of it. I was not sure if it was under or on top of the cover when re-installing. It's under.

gregsrow, · Reply

This step needs a few more caveats.

The bottom screw on my phone was locked with some thread adhesive, and required more force to loosen it than I expected.

Even after removing the screws, the battery connector was rather firmly seated, and required a fair bit of persistent gentle prying with the opening tool before it came loose.

The ground clip came loose and nearly flew off while loosening the connector, so it would really help people if there were a warning on this step to watch out for the ground clip and make sure it doesn't bounce away.

threephi, · Reply

Despite putting a large amount of pressure on the screw I can't get the blades of the 00 to take. Has anyone tried with a 000 and does it work better?

abeardsa, · Reply

The 00 didn't work much for me but I had more success with a Phillips #0

DMcG,

I find the #00 doesn't work either. I use the #000 and it works better for me.

Keith,

The battery connector is attached to the battery. You're not going to completely lift it out and remove it. It pulls out from the socket you can see in step 5 picture 3. The pressure contact (little black and gold thing) will probably just slide out from under the connector. Not a problem.

DMcG, · Reply

Which screwdriver works best then. I got the #00 philips from ifixit. I agree - it strips the screw and does not work. I don't recommend it.

I am now trying to buy another screwdriver - but which one. #0 or #000. Anyone done this. Please help!

andrepoon, · Reply

I lost the screws securing the battery connector to the logic board, what happens when I turn on my iphone without securing screws, as shown in step 4, please solution. thank you

Afriyadi, · Reply

The iFixit screwdriver that is recommended and provided will strip the screws here. HOLD OFF. I bought a ph000 screwdriver off the internet. Worked fine. Don't be tempted to proceed with the ph00 from iFixit. IT WILL STRIP!!

andrepoon, · Reply

seconded. after shipping (to spain, plus surprise import taxes) and nearly $100, the 1.7 mm screw would not budge and ended up stripped. uncool.

jejerez,

I completed this repair without removing the battery. I think the guide should be edited to note that battery removal is not necessary.

M C, · Reply

I completed this successfully, but this step gave me the most trouble. The pressure contact is really difficult to reseat. So much so that it should probably be called out more clearly in it's own step.

Greg Fulco, · Reply

If your pressure contact pops out you might find the video at http://www.hightechdad.com/2013/05/07/ho... helpful

Martin Cleaver, · Reply

When reinstalling the position of pressure contact must be explained better! It took me about 5 min to understand how it fit!

Jorge, · Reply

In french: attention avant de retirer le contacteur de la batterie. La vis du haut tient "en sandwich" une petite pièce métallique noire et dorée. Cette pièce a pour but de faire contact de masse avec le dos de l'iphone quand il est refermé. Donc il ne faut pas la tordre. Quand les deux vis du contacteur sont retirée, attention au moment de débrancher le contacteur: cela va faire bouger cette pièce qui ne doit pas être abîmée ni tordue. Au remontage, il faut bien la remettre en place sous le contacteur de batterie: il est tout à fait possible de mettre d'abord le contacteur, puis de glisser la petite pièce au dessous pour qu'elle soit bien à sa place, le trou en face du trou de vis et du trou du contacteur. En remettant la vis, la pièce tient bien en place. Elle doit bien continuer à dépasser de manière a faire contact avec le dos de l'iphone.

stephane lecreux, · Reply

Top screw didn’t move with iFixit Philips #000 driver. The metal is too soft and in the result the screw was damaged while still in place. Having nothing to lose I also tried #00 and #0. Any way to remove the stuck screw? I would gladly saw it off if I could.

viktorcode, · Reply

Ok, I had to drill the screw to break it. It was very delicate and time consuming operation. But in the end the screw cap finally broke off and I was able to remove the battery!

viktorcode,

The Liberation Kit Philips head screwdriver strips the battery connector screws! It stripped the ne 1.7 mm Phillips screw circled in red in the photo above. I was able to remove the other screw, then I lifted the battery connector off while the red screw was still in position and wound the connector around in circles while lifting upwards and managed to unscrew the stripped screw. Advice, find a decent philips heard screwdriver for the internal screws like the two found on the battery connector.

remsta, · Reply

When reassembling, use EST tweezers to get align the pressure contact over the top screw hole. using the pointy end of a spudger to assist: put the point through top screw-hole on the battery connector, then through the pressure contact and into the screw-hole. this will help to keep the small piece in place while re-seating the battery connector. Leave the top hole spiked as such until the screw in the bottom hole is gently fastened. Remove the spudger and replace the top screw.

tallismanproductions, · Reply

Pressure contact needs to be remain EXACTLY in the same position if you remove/replace battery. I had to re-open my iPhone 4S after a battery replacement (the mobile connectivity was lost) and tweak the position of the Pressure to restore functionality.

Peter Schoeman, · Reply

Why do I have to remove the battery for disassembling the rear camera? Any idea?

Andreas Suck, · Reply

Hi, I have a problem with that small piece which connect gsm antenna with the back cover. I missed that part and have a weak signal gsm, so I buy it and now when I put it there the Iphone wont turn on when the back cover is puted on. I know that somewhere is short-circuit but dont know how to solve it. Sorry for my english.

jurajtomecek7, · Reply

If I did accidentally remove the pressure contact point from the logic board...what do I do?

Samuel Z, · Reply

I also did this. Not sure what its for? My phone appears to be fine now without it.

Ian Booth,

This picture needs to be greatly enlarged! The pressure plate sits directly underneath the battery connector, but cannot be seen here. It is also flat but about half the size of the battery connector, so you won't know you've ripped it up until you have! Picture two slices of bread but not the same size, stuck together.

S Byers, · Reply

What if you pop off that pressure contact point?? What is its function? Is it impossible to re-attach?

Ian Booth, · Reply

No idea what exactly this step means. I just pulled the battery connector without trying to move the pressure contact. Installed new battery, plugged in connector and aligned the pressure contact slightly for the screw to fit.

Got a big scare as the phone would not connect to the cell network at first boot, only WiFi. Shut it off and when it rebooted it seemed to work. WIll probably know in a day or so if everything works fine or if there are interference issues, etc.

andries, · Reply

I also accidentally removed the pressure contact. I put it back in place as best I could during reassembly and so far haven't ran into any problems.

Maynard Stevens, · Reply

The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?

ozarkana, · Reply

After reassembling the iPhone I the GSM connection wasn't working. After cleaning all parts with isopropyl alcohol it still didn't work. What solved my problem was to turn on WiFi and then synchronizing the date and time which was set to 1970-01-01. After a reboot everything worked just fine. :)

Florian, · Reply

I had the same problem. Thanks for the solution!!

Manolis Mylonakis,

thanks for this!

Bill McNamara,

The black ground contact needs still more "flagging." This is a simple metal strip that is attached ONLY by the 1.5mm (upper) screw. It will help if you look at it before you remove the upper screw. Notice the gold contact arm and point. That contact point must be in a plane above every other surface inside the device when you replace the battery connector, because it makes a ground contact with the metallic inner surface of the device back plate.

When I replaced it, I used the Pentalobe driver to line up battery connector and ground contact with the screw socket post. I then attached the 1.7mm (lower) screw loosely, removed the Pentalobe driver gently, and inserted the 1.5mm (upper) screw into the assembly. There is a tab on the ground contact that helps it align properly once pressure begins to applied. I completed driving the upper screw, pressing lightly with the spudger on the battery connector plate to make sure it was seated on the pressure contacts. Finally, I completed driving the lower screw.

Matt McCaffrey, · Reply

This is a hard step because the directions and pictures are not very clear. This might help:

1) Here you HAVE TO disconnect the battery connecter (the language is confusing).

2) This is easier than it looks, as you can simply lift the connector upwards from any angle (I rested my plastic tool on the antenna and gently lifted it up).

The photo suggests you have to pull the connector backwards (which would be hard), this is not true, it can be lifted up towards you (the pins go out backwards and upwards, you'll see).

Finally, don't confuse the "pressure contact" with the "pressure contact point". You remove the contact, the contact point (underneath) sits on the board. No need to worry about this.

superedu111, · Reply

Very ambiguous instructions for amateurs like me. eg. "pressure contact" & "pressure contact point". Some labelling in the photos would be a great help.

Stephen Shaw, · Reply

Wish the instructions had the warnings about the pressure contact before getting started. I removed it from the logic board because the warning was after the instructions. I managed to get it back in place and reassemble the phone. Nothing happened when I turned it on. Here I wrongly assumed the battery came pre-charged but it wasn't. I decided to plug it in to recharge it and was elated to see the empty battery symbol. I'm sending this from the phone!

jfksdca, · Reply

I didn't find any need to remove the pressure contact. I just pried the battery connector up (gently) with a spudger and left the pressure contact in place. Connected the new battery and aligned the pressure contact screw hole. Replaced the screws, finished reassembly and all was good.

Roger Mercer, · Reply

After reassembly, the CELL CONNECTION WASN'T WORKING. You might need to slightly bend the contact in step 5 up just a little, so it will make contact with the metal back plate. Did that and it worked perfectly.

Great kit, great instructions, thanks!

AirPhonesApp, · Reply

all those teeny screws...and the world is so...well...BIG!

go slow and put those parts INTO something...

putting them "on" something will just cause heartache and and an infected bladder...

°¿°

after a lot of froofroo and very errant iphone behaviour problems, i concluded that that tiny grounding piece must be being lazy as hello. i spread it out a bit to ensure a better contact with the back plate and everything appears to be working smoothly.

did this repair, as well as the battery replacement...GTG!!!

spoke too soon, i 'spect...random reboots persist.

richard, · Reply

This can be very tricky because sometimes theres just too many glue on the back of the battery, and eventually the battery will be deformed.

Carlos Lopes, · Reply

Yes, there did seem to be a lot of glue holding my battery in. At first I was afraid of breaking it, but after reading up on the subject I've learned that it is okay if the battery gets a little deformed. Due to the nature of the battery it will still work if slightly deformed.

djlogic26, · Reply

I found the plastic pull tab to be useless. Peeled pretty much the whole battery out from the left side. Used a probe to "break" a few strands of glue to help. Just watch the connector and ribbon cable in the lower left corner as you pry up so you don't crimp them or damage them.

gregsrow, · Reply

DO NOT remove the battery unless absolutely necessary. If the battery is removed from the phone, DO NOT reuse it, ifixit does not seem to understand the importance of safely handling the battery

Tom Chai, · Reply

Tom you have never been so wrong. Removing the battery is the FIRST step ANYONE should do before repairing or attempting repairs on their phone. The iPhone has many different grounding points in the phone and having electrical current running to it poses a massive risk, especially with ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge). People, PLEASE make sure you remove your phone's battery FIRST before doing any repairs. Use a plastic, not metal, spudger, after unhooking the battery from the logic board, place the spudger along the right side of the battery NOT under the volume buttons, about an inch and a half lower (two roughly if a sim card is present) and start prying it up using the frame as the fulcrum, as you start to lift the battery from the adhesive make sure you slide the spudger farther under to get even contact so you do not damage the battery.

Prestige Computer Solutions,

Try a used plastic credit/gift card to apply gentle pressure to lift the battery out of the phone, the short edge of the card fits within the gap on the logic board side between the battery and video cables. You can also use it on the opposite side if there is room between the battery and iPhone frame. This has worked on all of the 4 and 4s models I've replaced screens on.

I offer an alternative image if interested.

Wallace Karraker, · Reply

Hello! My clients iphone 4s:n battery connector broke, when i tried accidentally take the battery out with a plastic tool from the wrong side.

Connector detached completely, so that the two middle ironcensors came with it and was stuck to the connector. When i screw the whole connector back to phone, it works with battery power, but the batterys downloading doesnt work. Are these two middle censors that are stuck in the connector exactly the ones that should be charging the battery? Do you know how i can fix this? I have already bought electrical conductor glue, but should the parts be cleaned somehow first? And how can i fix it, when the center metal sensors on the system board is also attached to the battery?

How can i clean out thiskind of part with windex? I have purchased almost all of the possible tools from iFixit and the electrical conductor glue i bought somewhere else. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/300915727408?ssP...)

SebastianK, · Reply

Removing the battery wasn't necessary. I attempted the removal but decided not to in the end. It didn't get in the way at all.

BigFatCat, · Reply

i also skipped the battery removal step. the battery didn't get in the way, but it did make it difficult to see if the wifi grounding fingers (step 14) were underneath the case lip. everything worked in the end though so i don't think removing the battery is a strict requirement.

rippergirl, · Reply

How can you not remove the battery in a battery replacement fix? Step 14, there are only 7 steps. Me thinks these comments are getting mixed up between different fixes!

bluezzer,

I did not remove the battery to do a Speaker replacement and had no issues with getting the Speaker out/in. So, steps 4 and 5 are required but not step 6.

rcrodriguez2, · Reply

The plastic tab is not attached to the battery. I just pried from the right and slid tools under until I broke all the adhesive.

DMcG, · Reply

I found it easier to start by pulling the plastic lip to loosen the battery, then, if needed, use the plastic tool to pry from the side.

superedu111, · Reply

I tried to get the battery out as depicted in the first picture. It deformed and is now broken. Not happy. It seems better to leave it or get it out by gently pulling the tab.

Paul Baars, · Reply

Please, Please, PLEASE avoid using probing elements to try remove batteries. I have had dozens handed in to me with punctures and two that actually started smoking due to people trying to prise the battery out. DO NOT DO IT.

The best way I have found to remove the battery is this process;

1) Try remove it with the pull tab directly, some will come out, some will not. Do NOT use excessive pull force else it'll deform the battery and reduce the capacity.

2) If the pull test didn't work, then get a hot air gun on medium and warm up the area around the battery for about 30 seconds, focusing on the perimeter of the battery. If you see ANY popcorn'ing then you're too hot, you don't want to cook the battery.

2.1) Wait about 30 seconds for the heat to now wick underneath the battery to soften the adhesive.

2.2) Now try pull the battery up, the extra heat should have softened the glue that you can remove the battery without excessive force and without sticking objects under the battery.

Paul L Daniels, · Reply

Be VERY careful NOT to pull off the part of the connector that is on the logic board! Mine now has only contact but no solder until I can get a small enough soldering iron and a less shaky pair of hands!

Rob Hendricks, · Reply

I lost the 1.5mm and 1.7mm screws when replacing my 4s battery. Is there a place that sells just these two screws? I bought a 4s screw kit from Zeeton.com but figuring out which screw out the of 39 screws were the the 1.5mm and 1.7mm was impossible.

admin, · Reply

Buy a cheap pair of digital callipers ($20 -$30) and it will be clear. You can then use them to measure all kinds of things instead of squinting with a ruler.

bluezzer,

I bent the wire of the silent button on right top of the battery. Now the silent botton don't work. The wire on the bent is half-cut. BE CAREFUL when you put the new battery inside!

orzo, · Reply

Was having a hard time getting the screws back into the battery connector. Read another tip online that helped - pushed the end of my phillips screwdriver into some soft candle wax which gave it just enough stickyness to have the screw stay attached to the screwdriver while I was moving it toward the hole. Thought I'd pass that along.

bill, · Reply

I did as wazzamagu did (and stated above), "My Pentalobe tool was slightly magnetized so I used that to bring the screws in for tightening with the Philips screwdriver." That made replacing the screws fairly easy. Thanks for all the advice on this page. It was not hard at all. Go slow and carefully, everything is smaller in there than I expected. The "searching" thing came up as it seems for most people, but just took a reboot and all is fine.

amorteguy, · Reply

TO ALL WITH NETWORK PROBLEMS!

I had the same issue with "searching network". After resetting the network settings in settings it did work perfectly!

Klemt, · Reply

Took about 15 minutes. The only thing that was confusing was the reference to parts, using the partname, and I didn't know what they were referring to. So I had to figure it out by the photos. Slightly frustrating. Got it in and it worked. My problem then, was it kept SEARCHING and couldn't find my carrier. I followed everyones advice on here, plugged phone into my computer to itunes. then turned off network settings in settings, then turned them back on, and I got 3 bars. good to go.

sally,

Instructions were good and everything works fine after replacement. Needed to use a tweezer on the pressure contact on the top screw of the battery. Thanks

jeff, · Reply

I swapped out the battery today. No real issues. Pretty easy task.

ddbbsr, · Reply

For the past couple of months, my phone had been dying very fast. I knew that my phone's battery capacity was getting quite low as this phone is older now, and is out of warranty. So I ordered a replacement battery about a week ago, and just installed it yesterday. The install was pretty easy, if you pay attention to where everything belongs. But my draining issue has not gone away. It stays charged a bit longer, my capacity is at almost 100%, yet it can't even hold a charge over night. I'm not sure what is causing this and would love any tips or stories from someone else!! Please help!!

loucksls92, · Reply

Are the screw sizes switche up by any chance? A 4S i have here has the left hole bigger and one of the screws didn't want to go into the right hole when it went nicely into the left one.

primozresman, · Reply

Fabulous tutorial! Many thanks! i have now a working iPhone back after display crash and glass brake!

In Step 8 I think the colors of the screws are inverted. The larger screw is at the left (near the sideboard) and the smaller is in the middle, near the battery (iPhone 4S).

Markus Gschwind, · Reply

Was trying to fix guide but accidently messed some things up in formatting and I too also believe the picture is incorrectly displaying the 1.5mm(which is the left screw) and the 1.2mm(which is the right screw.

Mars Starcruiser, · Reply

I believe the guide is correct, but be careful as the screws are not the same as the other 1.2mm screws from later on. Length is the same, but the diameter is not... just keep them all separate.

Dave, · Reply

Ok, I did all the steps and phone seems to be OK, wifi is actually working again, yaaay.

But cellular connection is messed up. It will have full reception (5 pins) for about 10 seconds, then drop to 1 pin for a couple seconds, then go into "searching" mode. After a few seconds in "searching" mode it will go back to full reception and the process repeats itself in a timely fashion, over and over again. Obviously I messed up somewhere but where? Which connections are faulty/beyond repair?

Colorblend, · Reply

I dismantled the phone again and concluded that the digitizer cable was kind of loose (don't know if that affected anything, but i put it down firmly this time). I had 2 problems, the cellular connection I mentioned plus the phone would charge to 3 percent, die, and then repeat the procedure. What I did was I took out the battery, the tin plate above the cables, and lifted the dock connector. So I did not redo that much. I cleaned all contact surfaces as I had been told but chose to not do before.... I also took out the grounding clip by the battery connectors and bent it upwards quite a bit while also peeling away 2 mm of the black insulation material on the back of the phone to make sure the grounding clip connects well to the back of the phone. I also cleaned that surface with window cleaner, which is basically isoprypol alcohol as has been recommended. The cellular antenna connector I pushed down firmly to make sure it was connected, I was gentler the first time, now everything works.

Colorblend, · Reply

Sometimes found stuck to the inside of the back cover.

Jeremy Jones, · Reply

Don't do it!!! you can skip that, it will stay and its more of a pain to remove it.

Nic Harper, · Reply

This is unnecessary step!! Don't do that!!

javamonk, · Reply

Agreed, mine was stuck inside of the back cover

fidelvila, · Reply

So was mine - thanks for telling! Rests of soft glue could be scratched off the place - so the ring was already off and I looked for it everywhere.

Ida, · Reply

Mine was stuck to the cover too, thanks for posting.

davisyang, · Reply

On reassembly, note that the metal lip below the (red) 2.7mm screw and to the right of the (green) 1.2mm screw goes between the ribbon cable and the main logic board, as can be seen in the picture for Step 12. If you don't get this right, the 2.7mm screw is difficult and, worse, there's a risk the edge of the lip will tear the ribbon cable.

David Bruce, · Reply

The fastening on the board came loose when trying to remove screw the 1.2 mm Phillips screw. So the screw hole for that screw is still attached to the cover that I removed.

Aasmund Gravem, · Reply

Got to step 13 and could not remove the 1.3mm screw (yellow circle), even using a different Phillips head screwdriver than the one that came with the kit. So frustrating. Was able to remove the other screws leading up to this point without difficulty (used the saran wrap trick on the other screws to prevent stripping, but this 1.3mm screw just would not budge).

Ended up abandoning the screen replacement--luckily the phone works after putting it back together.

Gayle, · Reply

If you just very slightly twist this plate clockwise as you are lifting it out, it will help as there is a little hooked piece at the lower edge on the very far right. You have to be careful not to turn it too much though because this hooked piece is right beside a ribbon that could be damaged.

Trisch, · Reply

Im pretty sure that when you reinsert the cam the grounding clip has go to between metal sticker and the cam body, or the camra wont be grounded

Michael Rygaard, · Reply

I've got a trouble at this step. Is there anybody who could help me out with my problem? When I was removing the camera module, accidently removed small element, which is marked with the red line http://i63.fastpic.ru/big/2014/1022/4e/9...

As I figured out - that is the SMD capacitor. After that Iphone was switched on, and it seems to be working fine at the moment, but I am very scared, if it will continue to work well without that small piece. Anybody to help?

soubi8, · Reply

I have an Iphone 4 but the inerds look more like this 4S than the 4, except I do not have a SIM card port. What's up?

Dave, · Reply

Probably a CDMA (Verizon) iPhone 4.

Pepper,

Is there a reason for waiting until step 18 to remove the sim card and its holder? I can do it right before I start without much force, is this not better?

jmaelzer, · Reply

I don't see any reason. So it was my step 1 to remove the SIM card.

Ida,

I agree that the SIM card should be removed before you even start. After I completed this repair (waiting until this step to remove the SIM), the SIM card and holders won't go flush with the side of the phone anymore. The phone still works and everything else is fine, it's just annoying that I have a SIM holder sticking out about 1mm. I'm not certain this step caused this, but I'm just letting folks know that I agree with jmaelzer.

Song, · Reply

for the life of me I can NOT get this sim card and holder out!

Lori, · Reply

To be honest, it's really hard to remove SIM card without a correct tool.

Beck Sisyphus, · Reply

You have to PUSH the paperclip IN, then the tray pops OUT.

Floris Jansen, · Reply

I agree. Push in.

ivesrubl,

ifixit needs to edit this: "significant force" is NOT needed! I started to bend out the hole until I read the last post- just push the tool straight in, the SIM card will eject easily.

soopamandan, · Reply

Is there any reason why you still have the ribbon cable under the little metalic plate (right under the sticker that says "Authorized Service Provider Only") plugged in in STEP 10. And it is without any instruction step removed in STEP 12? I mean it's not like it is complicated, but when I got to that part I was confused there for a minute that I forgot some step, and then reassured myself that I did everything as it said in the manual.

Tadeas Bucha, · Reply

I have done everything correctly but when i turn the phone on all i get is a blank screen. The phone operates as normal i.e. it rings, vibrates etc but the screen is just blank so you can't actually do anything with it :(

anyone had the same issue?

mark, · Reply

There is an additional cable that you have to disconnect that's under the headphone jack cable. You have to do this before you try to remove the logic board. Otherwise, you'll rip that cable.. and I just freaking did.

Dennis, · Reply

The digitizer cable won't reach! I've already ripped it off once. which disconnect are you talking about?

kct16k,

I just ripped off the power cable ... i can live without the power button though!

Oreste Attanasio, · Reply

is that sarcasm or is there really a way to turn on the phone without the power button?

Sharn de Wet,

Need to remove the shield over the connectors first. Look at the other guides for the 4S they show the 4 screws and how to lift the shield out, take out the camera etc.

Paul, · Reply

During reassembly, note that this small 1.5 mm screw goes into a thread in the head of the larger 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.

gregm, · Reply

(be careful but gently forceful; the part doesn't come out without effort)

Carol Wade, · Reply

I used a metal spudger from the Pro Tech Toolkit to remove the standoff, seemed to work better for me than a flathead screwdriver.

Dirk Blom, · Reply

The flathead screwdriver provided is much too small to remove this piece!

gluethje76, · Reply

I recommend that steps 20 and 21 are swapped. It's much easier to remove the wifi antenna flex from the board using the blue spudger if the board/PCB is still secured with the 4.8mm screw.

Removing the screw first makes the PCB move up too much when you're trying to detach the wifi flex and can lead to mishaps.

Paul L Daniels, · Reply

Great Guide and thanks. Now...what if i snapped the wifi antenna cable together with its male connector from the board? Like tearing it apart ? Can this be replaced by any chance? Thanks!

spyrosandreou, · Reply

I also had a problem with the connector breaking off, but after putting everything together, the WiFi seems to work like before, so I guess there is no problem there...

Dirk Blom, · Reply

Ok so no fret here if you accidentally pull off the metal insert placed on top of the actual antenna. This step needs to be rewritten imo, the deal here is that there is an actual 'socket' looking deal underneath here that you need to lift up. There is a metal tab semi'glued' to that part of the antenna and it does come off easily, however all you need to do is press them back together to get them back, I believe it to be a range 'extender' of sorts.

So your looking to actually lift up what looks a lot like a ribbon cable as well in this step. YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE A PIECE REMOVED IN THIS STEP, it's still in the case at this point.

Ben, · Reply

Dimension given are Length of screw. I think it meant to say 2.6mm screw.

Jon, · Reply

Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it. It falls off after the logic board is removed and should be replaced before reassembly.

ghodges, · Reply

So, my 2.6 Philips screw near the power cable just spins and spins. It happened the first time, so I know I didn't strip it. Any ideas?

thebacks, · Reply

So, I couldn't gind the tape and instead of digging around. I did what no one should do. I twisted and pulled. So now the screw that holds the upper left corner on broke that part of the logic board off. Everything else went back great....Phone won't turn on. Am I screwed here?

cdays01, · Reply

step 13 - “One 1.3 mm Phillips screw”

step -22 “Notice the small rubber bumper under the screen & digitizer cables (which are detached at top above the Q-code)”

“Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it”

now, the problem :-)

while assembly the iPhone I screw by mistake the 2.6 mm instead of the 1.3, and without noticing I break the 1.3 base screw from the motherboard :-/

Now, the rear camera is not working.

I couldn't figure in the picture above, if the rubber bumper you mean, is under that screw or above the Q5M tag ?

Can it be that the dewar camera don’t work because of that broken screw?

Any idea how to fix it?

Is there any option to buy the rubber bumper, if I lost it ?

Appreciate any help,

thanks!!

Simon, · Reply

I used a metal spudger from the Pro Tech Toolkit to remove the standoff, seemed to work better for me than a flathead screwdriver.

Dirk Blom, · Reply

After I had lifted the logic board and moved around a little a small rubber piece fell off. Approx. 1 cm long and 2 mm wide. I'm guessing it's for some sort of isolation between the board and the chassis. Where should it go when I reassemble the phone?

The piece I'm referring to can be seen on the table in the upper right corner in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVQtgD89e...

Simon Fransson, · Reply

It sits between the logic board top-edge and the two ribbon leads from the screen. Its purpose is to stop the PCB cutting in to the FPC leads over time due to vibrations. If you require I can send a photo.

Paul L Daniels,

hey, i removed the logic board and gave it a bit isopropanol spray. is this ok? how can i found out if it is working? is it possible to remove something from the logic board? thank you :)

bne, · Reply

On reassembly, make sure you lift up the power button cable before installing circuit board. I thought I had all of the cables lifted until after getting to step 17 (in reverse) only to find out power cable was under the circuit board. Added 15 minutes to my process.

juanocasio, · Reply

if I LOSE it, what will happen?

Actually, i DID lose it.

XuKaimeng, · Reply

Apparently it had uncovered my iPhone before, because when I did not find this piece uncapped here. I need to know which function is on the iPhone and if it is very important. How could I get?

Raul Tejada, · Reply

Hi, I had the phone apart to replace the wifi chip.

Has anyone found a source for the two nano sized SMD resistors, because this also causes "no wifi" syndrome due to them being important for the I2C lines.

thanks!!! -A email testing_h "at " yahoo.com

Andre De Guerin, · Reply

I think this is one of the parts I didn't put back in... Does it affect anything?

Also, Took apart my iPhone 4S to fix the screen and battery... Now the camera light doesn't turn on and I'm left with two pieces. Help!

Here are the parts: http://imgur.com/DsYtdlR

Nicole, · Reply

Left part: See step 5 - "Take notice of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector".

Right part: See step 25 - "Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button".

Simon Fransson,

I removed this in step 22 even though it only slightly alluded to it. If you did, too, don't panic. Go find your step 22 parts and verify it is there. :)

christopherjwells, · Reply

What are the consequences of losing the 'small grounding finger for the rear view camera'?

3chris3rivers3, · Reply

Guys, the supply part you deliver contains a plastic piece on the bottom of the antenna, make sure to also remove this piece of plastic from the phone (photo is missing) when placing a new stock wifi antenna in the phone, as otherwise when closing the phone, the back lid has too little space to close, and thereby you have to reopen the entire phone a second time, which is time consuming. If you want to have a picture of what i mean contact me.

remmeltbeckers, · Reply

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