Use this guide to replace a blown-out earpiece speaker.

Image 1/1: Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe P2 screws next to the dock connector.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe P2 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

The Liberation Kit just stripped the screw. Now what.

nimpsy - Reply

Had local iPhone repair shop remove the screw. Repair complete!

nimpsy -

I left the battery in and everything above the middle, using a pen knife to flex the logic board, I had plenty of room to else the old out and the new in.

Worked well and saved a lot of time.

Keith M - Reply

After reviewing the steps I decided to follow this guy's advice and left the battery less item to possibly foul up. I don't know if it made it any faster (first time to open my phone, so nothing to compare it to) but I can say that my phone is charging for the first time in 6 months :D

Jennifer -


1) This is doable but not easy, quick or without risk.

2) If this is your 1st time, the whole process can take >2 hours (half of it reading this fixit manual and notes, which I highly recommend!)

3) I highly recommend placing a large, thin clean white cloth on the table. This prevents screws from rolling around and you will clearly see anything falling out.

4) If you have them, use tight surgical (latex) gloves. This prevents you from greasing up contacts.

5) Have e.g. a big old egg box ready, so you can place the screws in order (and maybe write step/screw size on the side).

6) I bought my display from "Generic" on Amazon ($20.36). Screen works fine and tools were ok but not great (screw drivers do not withstand force needed to unscrew some).

7) I had my own 2mm Phillips screw driver and a 2.4mm flat (for the big screws).

8) Have a nice cold beer by your side! Good luck!

superedu111 - Reply

Sounds like this comment relates to a screen replacement, not a rear panel replacement. No way a rear panel replacement would take 2 hours - can be done in 2 minutes!

Jonathan Deamer -

I was paranoid about stripping the pentalobes - I used the ifixit pentalobe screwdriver TOGETHER with a layer of Glad Wrap (cling film or saran wrap for the non-Aussies) over the pentalobe holes - absolutely no problems. Guess it helps the driver head gain purchase?

Anyway hat tip to this guy:

jimforbes - Reply

It's also called glad wrap in the US as well. :)

Scorppio500 Webmaster -

After seeing the comments about trouble finding the carrier, I shut down the phone, did a soft reset (by holding the power and home buttons until it started and then shut down and stayed off), and removed the SIM. After the repair, I replaced the SIM and plugged it in to the charger. It started up and found the carrier (Verizon, as it happens) immediately. I would guess that only the soft reset made a difference, but I did both.

DavidLewis - Reply

Thank you David, will I need to reload operating system if I replace thr logic board? I'm hoping to use a 32gb boards from a locked but working phone to place in my 8gb device. Thanks for your advice,


Sharif Bagnulo -

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Reply

Here's a little vacuum trick for anything small: put nylons/panty hose over the end of the hose and then you don't have to dig thru the bag contents.

paul -

Marv you a first class pleb! Please don't try and fix anything again. Tool

ticklejahfancy -

my screws are stipped and i am going though the front glass to get to the logic board could some one give me a guide on how to get to the board please... thanks

Caleb Croft - Reply

all you need to do is remove the clip over the wifi antenna and the one that actually attaches the wifi antenna to the iphone two steps to do this job...

Ray Leahy - Reply

The physical battery replacement went off without a hitch, and saw that the phone had no network connection, but also had no way to unlock. The slide lock said "Slide for Emergency Call" over my custom wallpaper and sliding would give the passcode screen, but it would reject the 6 digit passcode (it would buzz and go dark after the 4th digit, re-awakening and putting in the last 2 would indicate bad passcode). Very frustrating! I get it into recovery mode and convinced iTunes to "update" the OS, but it still didn't let me in. I performed a restore to fully factory reset the phone, and it worked! Sort of... the start screen kept being replaced by "Temperature - phone needs to cool down" but it's cold. Temp sensor is on the battery and returning to old battery fixed it. New battery is bad, and phone is wiped. Fun night.

I'm going to guess that disabling the password might save you from a similar fate. So, I'll suggest BEFORE YOU START, backup your phone and disable the passcode. Good luck.

Ian Epperson - Reply

Same here.. Going through that terrible night myself! Guess you had to return your battery right?

Nuno Alves -

Image 1/2: The panel will move about 2 mm.
  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

how can i take out the screw if it is stripped

Manny Chaidez - Reply

with a small driller, but I guess it is very difficult. Never attempted that myself on an iPhone.

lantzero -

There is no screw in Step 2?

Is the screw stripped or the head stripped?

I have used superglue on the screwdriver to remove a stripped screw, it would turn but not come out, with superglue I could turn and pull the screw out. May also work on a stripped head.

Trevor -

If you are careful, use a Dremel tool and a micro drill bit (sold where Dremel tools are purchased) to drill it out. Last resort kind of thing, good luck.

Jack - Reply

Why isn't it moving? I removed my screws.

Thomas The Train - Reply

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Reply

I didn't see any extra screws holding the back in place. I had to use the included pry tool to get the back off. Just start at the bottom and pry gently...if you just "pull" like the guide says it won't work.

Brian - Reply

Don't use too much force to slide the back -- the back on my phone was hard to slide, and I bent and broke a silver metal contact tab at the top of the back (on the inside).

perryskeath - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the rear panel from the iPhone.
  • Pull the rear panel away from the back of the iPhone, being careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • Remove the rear panel from the iPhone.

On reassembly, be sure to clean the metal plate at the place of contact with the tiny pressure contact mentioned in step 4.

Harald Brandt - Reply

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Reply

The replacement panel I got had two sheets of protective plastic on the inside and one on the outside. I used a toothpick to carefully lift and peel the two inside sheets off. One small one was over the lens on the inside. The other was over some large brown sheet of unknown function (though I think it goes over the battery). When I peel that away, some of the brown material tried to lift of with it, so be very careful.

dhein - Reply

From this point go to step ?? Just peel off the tape from the chip. Take some aluminium foil and cut a hole the size of the chip (Use a second layer of foil if you don't thrust it). Heat the chip as described at temperature 300 deg C for 5 minutes. Let it cool down. Reassemble and ..... hura WIFI is on again.

Lucasa Clearman - Reply

Image 1/3: One 1.7 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently detach the battery connector from the socket on the device. Start lifting off the connector from the bottom side, by placing the tip of the tool between the loudspeaker enclosure and the metal cover of the connector.

  • The battery connector comes off vertically from the logic board. Do not apply force sideways.

  • Pay attention to the pressure contact underneath the top screw of the battery connector. This may come loose while prying the battery connector from its socket.

On my phone at least, there is a small gold and black part held down under the top screw. It goes black side up with the pressure contact touching the back of the phone when the cover is in place. Keep an eye out for correct orientation as you dismantle.

James Molyneux - Reply

I also had a small black and gold connector held down by the top screw on this step.

Kevin Keenan - Reply

While the text refers to the pressure contact, the pictures do not show it clearly. The closet one that does has the yellow circle covering much of it. I was not sure if it was under or on top of the cover when re-installing. It's under.

gregsrow - Reply

This step needs a few more caveats.

The bottom screw on my phone was locked with some thread adhesive, and required more force to loosen it than I expected.

Even after removing the screws, the battery connector was rather firmly seated, and required a fair bit of persistent gentle prying with the opening tool before it came loose.

The ground clip came loose and nearly flew off while loosening the connector, so it would really help people if there were a warning on this step to watch out for the ground clip and make sure it doesn't bounce away.

threephi - Reply

Despite putting a large amount of pressure on the screw I can't get the blades of the 00 to take. Has anyone tried with a 000 and does it work better?

abeardsa - Reply

The 00 didn't work much for me but I had more success with a Phillips #0

DMcG -

I find the #00 doesn't work either. I use the #000 and it works better for me.

Keith -

The battery connector is attached to the battery. You're not going to completely lift it out and remove it. It pulls out from the socket you can see in step 5 picture 3. The pressure contact (little black and gold thing) will probably just slide out from under the connector. Not a problem.

DMcG - Reply

Which screwdriver works best then. I got the #00 philips from ifixit. I agree - it strips the screw and does not work. I don't recommend it.

I am now trying to buy another screwdriver - but which one. #0 or #000. Anyone done this. Please help!

andrepoon - Reply

I lost the screws securing the battery connector to the logic board, what happens when I turn on my iphone without securing screws, as shown in step 4, please solution. thank you

Afriyadi - Reply

The iFixit screwdriver that is recommended and provided will strip the screws here. HOLD OFF. I bought a ph000 screwdriver off the internet. Worked fine. Don't be tempted to proceed with the ph00 from iFixit. IT WILL STRIP!!

andrepoon - Reply

seconded. after shipping (to spain, plus surprise import taxes) and nearly $100, the 1.7 mm screw would not budge and ended up stripped. uncool.

jejerez -

I completed this repair without removing the battery. I think the guide should be edited to note that battery removal is not necessary.

M C - Reply

A little late to ask but how did you do this without taking the battery out? My screws are a pain to get out and if there is a better way of doing this then I'd like to try.

josephcon1998 -

I completed this successfully, but this step gave me the most trouble. The pressure contact is really difficult to reseat. So much so that it should probably be called out more clearly in it's own step.

Greg Fulco - Reply

If your pressure contact pops out you might find the video at helpful

Martin Cleaver - Reply

I found this link to be incredibly helpful in identifying how/ where to put the pressure contact back in place

Elizabeth Harris -

When reinstalling the position of pressure contact must be explained better! It took me about 5 min to understand how it fit!

Jorge - Reply

In french: attention avant de retirer le contacteur de la batterie. La vis du haut tient "en sandwich" une petite pièce métallique noire et dorée. Cette pièce a pour but de faire contact de masse avec le dos de l'iphone quand il est refermé. Donc il ne faut pas la tordre. Quand les deux vis du contacteur sont retirée, attention au moment de débrancher le contacteur: cela va faire bouger cette pièce qui ne doit pas être abîmée ni tordue. Au remontage, il faut bien la remettre en place sous le contacteur de batterie: il est tout à fait possible de mettre d'abord le contacteur, puis de glisser la petite pièce au dessous pour qu'elle soit bien à sa place, le trou en face du trou de vis et du trou du contacteur. En remettant la vis, la pièce tient bien en place. Elle doit bien continuer à dépasser de manière a faire contact avec le dos de l'iphone.

stephane lecreux - Reply

Top screw didn’t move with iFixit Philips #000 driver. The metal is too soft and in the result the screw was damaged while still in place. Having nothing to lose I also tried #00 and #0. Any way to remove the stuck screw? I would gladly saw it off if I could.

viktorcode - Reply

Ok, I had to drill the screw to break it. It was very delicate and time consuming operation. But in the end the screw cap finally broke off and I was able to remove the battery!

viktorcode -

The Liberation Kit Philips head screwdriver strips the battery connector screws! It stripped the ne 1.7 mm Phillips screw circled in red in the photo above. I was able to remove the other screw, then I lifted the battery connector off while the red screw was still in position and wound the connector around in circles while lifting upwards and managed to unscrew the stripped screw. Advice, find a decent philips heard screwdriver for the internal screws like the two found on the battery connector.

remsta - Reply

When reassembling, use EST tweezers to get align the pressure contact over the top screw hole. using the pointy end of a spudger to assist: put the point through top screw-hole on the battery connector, then through the pressure contact and into the screw-hole. this will help to keep the small piece in place while re-seating the battery connector. Leave the top hole spiked as such until the screw in the bottom hole is gently fastened. Remove the spudger and replace the top screw.

tallismanproductions - Reply

Pressure contact needs to be remain EXACTLY in the same position if you remove/replace battery. I had to re-open my iPhone 4S after a battery replacement (the mobile connectivity was lost) and tweak the position of the Pressure to restore functionality.

Peter Schoeman - Reply

Why do I have to remove the battery for disassembling the rear camera? Any idea?

Andreas Suck - Reply

Hi, I have a problem with that small piece which connect gsm antenna with the back cover. I missed that part and have a weak signal gsm, so I buy it and now when I put it there the Iphone wont turn on when the back cover is puted on. I know that somewhere is short-circuit but dont know how to solve it. Sorry for my english.

jurajtomecek7 - Reply

I used my 16x magnifier loupe to be certain I had the pressure sensor aligned with the screw hole - no problem, no stripping. I consider it indispensable for tricky steps like this, and IFixit sells a similar tool for just $14.

Jen Morris - Reply

The pressure connector is the battery connector under the silver plate. BE CAREFUL. It seems like it'd be really easy to tear that pressure connector out without meaning to. The bronze and black thing is the ground, *not* the pressure connector. If you remove it just keep track of it and re-install it.

Brian - Reply

this help me a lot, i just don't know how to fix it(bought it from

Dean - Reply

The phillips head screwdriver provided in the ifixit repair kit does not work well this these two screws after my first attempt at unscrewing the screws became stripped. The 1.7 mm phillips screw gave me the most trouble. It took an hour to unscrew after the screwdriver from the kit stripped the screw. I used a piece of masking tape over the screw for grip to loosen it, then used finger nail clippers as pliers to unscrew. I would recommend investing in a better screwdriver for this one step. Assembly is otherwise simple and easy.

teeteebaby5 - Reply

Here's a tip if you're having trouble removing the 1.7 mm screw. I had real problems removing it – the 1.5 mm screw came out easily using a Phillips #000 screwdriver but I almost stripped the 1.7 mm screw using the same screwdriver. What I did instead was use a flathead screwdriver from the iFixit pro tech toolkit I got, the one with a "–" sign and 1.0 size. That worked perfectly!

Lars - Reply

There's only one Philips screwdriver with the kit but it failed to unscrew the top 1.7mm one off the connector unfortunately. Is the kit supposed to come with both the 1.7 and 1.5mm Philips screwdrivers?

yanchou - Reply

When disconnecting the battery make sure to use a plastic tool not a metal tool that could short out the battery

Ethan Chow - Reply

I did not manage to get the screws out with a Phillips #000 Screwdriver; I used instead the J1000 head of the all-new pro tech toolkit

Jean Wallemacq - Reply

Image 1/3: When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pull the pressure contact from underneath the battery connector.

  • When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.

  • Take notice of the position of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector. This clip is attached only by the upper screw. When reinstalling, it must be aligned so the gold contact point will press against the back cover.

  • Be careful not to rip off the battery connector socket soldered on the logic board. There are 4 very small soldering points awaiting this mistake!

If I did accidentally remove the pressure contact point from the logic board...what do I do?

Samuel Z - Reply

I also did this. Not sure what its for? My phone appears to be fine now without it.

Ian Booth -

This picture needs to be greatly enlarged! The pressure plate sits directly underneath the battery connector, but cannot be seen here. It is also flat but about half the size of the battery connector, so you won't know you've ripped it up until you have! Picture two slices of bread but not the same size, stuck together.

S Byers - Reply

What if you pop off that pressure contact point?? What is its function? Is it impossible to re-attach?

Ian Booth - Reply

No idea what exactly this step means. I just pulled the battery connector without trying to move the pressure contact. Installed new battery, plugged in connector and aligned the pressure contact slightly for the screw to fit.

Got a big scare as the phone would not connect to the cell network at first boot, only WiFi. Shut it off and when it rebooted it seemed to work. WIll probably know in a day or so if everything works fine or if there are interference issues, etc.

andries - Reply

This is normal ... removing the battery resets internal clock to start value and your provider doesn't accept that, hence no network.

Going online through wifi or manually setting date right corrects this after a reboot.

Dreetn -

I also accidentally removed the pressure contact. I put it back in place as best I could during reassembly and so far haven't ran into any problems.

Maynard Stevens - Reply

The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?

ozarkana - Reply

After reassembling the iPhone I the GSM connection wasn't working. After cleaning all parts with isopropyl alcohol it still didn't work. What solved my problem was to turn on WiFi and then synchronizing the date and time which was set to 1970-01-01. After a reboot everything worked just fine. :)

Florian - Reply

I had the same problem. Thanks for the solution!!

Manolis Mylonakis -

thanks for this!

Bill McNamara -

The black ground contact needs still more "flagging." This is a simple metal strip that is attached ONLY by the 1.5mm (upper) screw. It will help if you look at it before you remove the upper screw. Notice the gold contact arm and point. That contact point must be in a plane above every other surface inside the device when you replace the battery connector, because it makes a ground contact with the metallic inner surface of the device back plate.

When I replaced it, I used the Pentalobe driver to line up battery connector and ground contact with the screw socket post. I then attached the 1.7mm (lower) screw loosely, removed the Pentalobe driver gently, and inserted the 1.5mm (upper) screw into the assembly. There is a tab on the ground contact that helps it align properly once pressure begins to applied. I completed driving the upper screw, pressing lightly with the spudger on the battery connector plate to make sure it was seated on the pressure contacts. Finally, I completed driving the lower screw.

Matt McCaffrey - Reply

This is a hard step because the directions and pictures are not very clear. This might help:

1) Here you HAVE TO disconnect the battery connecter (the language is confusing).

2) This is easier than it looks, as you can simply lift the connector upwards from any angle (I rested my plastic tool on the antenna and gently lifted it up).

The photo suggests you have to pull the connector backwards (which would be hard), this is not true, it can be lifted up towards you (the pins go out backwards and upwards, you'll see).

Finally, don't confuse the "pressure contact" with the "pressure contact point". You remove the contact, the contact point (underneath) sits on the board. No need to worry about this.

superedu111 - Reply

Very ambiguous instructions for amateurs like me. eg. "pressure contact" & "pressure contact point". Some labelling in the photos would be a great help.

Stephen Shaw - Reply

Wish the instructions had the warnings about the pressure contact before getting started. I removed it from the logic board because the warning was after the instructions. I managed to get it back in place and reassemble the phone. Nothing happened when I turned it on. Here I wrongly assumed the battery came pre-charged but it wasn't. I decided to plug it in to recharge it and was elated to see the empty battery symbol. I'm sending this from the phone!

jfksdca - Reply

I didn't find any need to remove the pressure contact. I just pried the battery connector up (gently) with a spudger and left the pressure contact in place. Connected the new battery and aligned the pressure contact screw hole. Replaced the screws, finished reassembly and all was good.

Roger Mercer - Reply

After reassembly, the CELL CONNECTION WASN'T WORKING. You might need to slightly bend the contact in step 5 up just a little, so it will make contact with the metal back plate. Did that and it worked perfectly.

Great kit, great instructions, thanks!

AirPhonesApp - Reply

all those teeny screws...and the world is so...well...BIG!

go slow and put those parts INTO something...

putting them "on" something will just cause heartache and and an infected bladder...


after a lot of froofroo and very errant iphone behaviour problems, i concluded that that tiny grounding piece must be being lazy as hello. i spread it out a bit to ensure a better contact with the back plate and everything appears to be working smoothly.

did this repair, as well as the battery replacement...GTG!!!

spoke too soon, i 'spect...random reboots persist.

richard - Reply

Just went through the replacement and the battery "plug" (step 5) on my replacement battery was slightly misaligned relative to the metal plate used to screw it onto the board. The plastic and "gold" "plug" was slightly askew on the metal plate, which meant that when the plug was inserted, the screw holes (step 4) were poorly aligned.

I managed to pull everything back into line using the screws, but the QC on these replacement batteries is a bit suspect.

cvdwl - Reply

Guess what happens when you rotate that ground connector 180 grounds what I deduced to be the heat sink of the power amplifier for the speaker! So it is silent. It took me a couple of attempts to discover this as I was distracted by the new speaker not sitting down properly and a little dot of stuff under the main connector stuck to the pins. The latter was cleaned-off with a pin under 5x magnification followed by some isopropyl alcohol.

I suggest that Step 5 is more explicit about the orientation of this ground connector. It's only obvious after a really close look and if one has a lot to do like I did, it's a long time before one comes back to this step so the correct orientation is not obvious.

Michael Scollay - Reply

Image 1/2: Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.
  • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the battery and the outer case near the bottom of the iPhone.

  • Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.

This can be very tricky because sometimes theres just too many glue on the back of the battery, and eventually the battery will be deformed.

Carlos Lopes - Reply

Yes, there did seem to be a lot of glue holding my battery in. At first I was afraid of breaking it, but after reading up on the subject I've learned that it is okay if the battery gets a little deformed. Due to the nature of the battery it will still work if slightly deformed.

djlogic26 - Reply

I found the plastic pull tab to be useless. Peeled pretty much the whole battery out from the left side. Used a probe to "break" a few strands of glue to help. Just watch the connector and ribbon cable in the lower left corner as you pry up so you don't crimp them or damage them.

gregsrow - Reply

DO NOT remove the battery unless absolutely necessary. If the battery is removed from the phone, DO NOT reuse it, ifixit does not seem to understand the importance of safely handling the battery

Tom Chai - Reply

Tom you have never been so wrong. Removing the battery is the FIRST step ANYONE should do before repairing or attempting repairs on their phone. The iPhone has many different grounding points in the phone and having electrical current running to it poses a massive risk, especially with ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge). People, PLEASE make sure you remove your phone's battery FIRST before doing any repairs. Use a plastic, not metal, spudger, after unhooking the battery from the logic board, place the spudger along the right side of the battery NOT under the volume buttons, about an inch and a half lower (two roughly if a sim card is present) and start prying it up using the frame as the fulcrum, as you start to lift the battery from the adhesive make sure you slide the spudger farther under to get even contact so you do not damage the battery.

Prestige Computer Solutions -

Try a used plastic credit/gift card to apply gentle pressure to lift the battery out of the phone, the short edge of the card fits within the gap on the logic board side between the battery and video cables. You can also use it on the opposite side if there is room between the battery and iPhone frame. This has worked on all of the 4 and 4s models I've replaced screens on.

I offer an alternative image if interested.

Wallace Karraker - Reply

Hello! My clients iphone 4s:n battery connector broke, when i tried accidentally take the battery out with a plastic tool from the wrong side.

Connector detached completely, so that the two middle ironcensors came with it and was stuck to the connector. When i screw the whole connector back to phone, it works with battery power, but the batterys downloading doesnt work. Are these two middle censors that are stuck in the connector exactly the ones that should be charging the battery? Do you know how i can fix this? I have already bought electrical conductor glue, but should the parts be cleaned somehow first? And how can i fix it, when the center metal sensors on the system board is also attached to the battery?

How can i clean out thiskind of part with windex? I have purchased almost all of the possible tools from iFixit and the electrical conductor glue i bought somewhere else. (

SebastianK - Reply

Removing the battery wasn't necessary. I attempted the removal but decided not to in the end. It didn't get in the way at all.

BigFatCat - Reply

i also skipped the battery removal step. the battery didn't get in the way, but it did make it difficult to see if the wifi grounding fingers (step 14) were underneath the case lip. everything worked in the end though so i don't think removing the battery is a strict requirement.

rippergirl - Reply

How can you not remove the battery in a battery replacement fix? Step 14, there are only 7 steps. Me thinks these comments are getting mixed up between different fixes!

bluezzer -

I did not remove the battery to do a Speaker replacement and had no issues with getting the Speaker out/in. So, steps 4 and 5 are required but not step 6.

rcrodriguez2 - Reply

The plastic tab is not attached to the battery. I just pried from the right and slid tools under until I broke all the adhesive.

DMcG - Reply

I found it easier to start by pulling the plastic lip to loosen the battery, then, if needed, use the plastic tool to pry from the side.

superedu111 - Reply

I tried to get the battery out as depicted in the first picture. It deformed and is now broken. Not happy. It seems better to leave it or get it out by gently pulling the tab.

Paul Baars - Reply

Please, Please, PLEASE avoid using probing elements to try remove batteries. I have had dozens handed in to me with punctures and two that actually started smoking due to people trying to prise the battery out. DO NOT DO IT.

The best way I have found to remove the battery is this process;

1) Try remove it with the pull tab directly, some will come out, some will not. Do NOT use excessive pull force else it'll deform the battery and reduce the capacity.

2) If the pull test didn't work, then get a hot air gun on medium and warm up the area around the battery for about 30 seconds, focusing on the perimeter of the battery. If you see ANY popcorn'ing then you're too hot, you don't want to cook the battery.

2.1) Wait about 30 seconds for the heat to now wick underneath the battery to soften the adhesive.

2.2) Now try pull the battery up, the extra heat should have softened the glue that you can remove the battery without excessive force and without sticking objects under the battery.

Paul L Daniels - Reply

Image 1/2: Be careful not to pull the plastic pull tab too hard as it can be ripped off very easily.
  • Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Be careful not to pull the plastic pull tab too hard as it can be ripped off very easily.

  • Remove the battery.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Be VERY careful NOT to pull off the part of the connector that is on the logic board! Mine now has only contact but no solder until I can get a small enough soldering iron and a less shaky pair of hands!

Rob Hendricks - Reply

I lost the 1.5mm and 1.7mm screws when replacing my 4s battery. Is there a place that sells just these two screws? I bought a 4s screw kit from but figuring out which screw out the of 39 screws were the the 1.5mm and 1.7mm was impossible.

admin - Reply

Buy a cheap pair of digital callipers ($20 -$30) and it will be clear. You can then use them to measure all kinds of things instead of squinting with a ruler.

bluezzer -

I bent the wire of the silent button on right top of the battery. Now the silent botton don't work. The wire on the bent is half-cut. BE CAREFUL when you put the new battery inside!

orzo - Reply

Was having a hard time getting the screws back into the battery connector. Read another tip online that helped - pushed the end of my phillips screwdriver into some soft candle wax which gave it just enough stickyness to have the screw stay attached to the screwdriver while I was moving it toward the hole. Thought I'd pass that along.

bill - Reply

I did as wazzamagu did (and stated above), "My Pentalobe tool was slightly magnetized so I used that to bring the screws in for tightening with the Philips screwdriver." That made replacing the screws fairly easy. Thanks for all the advice on this page. It was not hard at all. Go slow and carefully, everything is smaller in there than I expected. The "searching" thing came up as it seems for most people, but just took a reboot and all is fine.

amorteguy - Reply


I had the same issue with "searching network". After resetting the network settings in settings it did work perfectly!

Klemt - Reply

Took about 15 minutes. The only thing that was confusing was the reference to parts, using the partname, and I didn't know what they were referring to. So I had to figure it out by the photos. Slightly frustrating. Got it in and it worked. My problem then, was it kept SEARCHING and couldn't find my carrier. I followed everyones advice on here, plugged phone into my computer to itunes. then turned off network settings in settings, then turned them back on, and I got 3 bars. good to go.

sally -

Instructions were good and everything works fine after replacement. Needed to use a tweezer on the pressure contact on the top screw of the battery. Thanks

jeff - Reply

I swapped out the battery today. No real issues. Pretty easy task.

ddbbsr - Reply

For the past couple of months, my phone had been dying very fast. I knew that my phone's battery capacity was getting quite low as this phone is older now, and is out of warranty. So I ordered a replacement battery about a week ago, and just installed it yesterday. The install was pretty easy, if you pay attention to where everything belongs. But my draining issue has not gone away. It stays charged a bit longer, my capacity is at almost 100%, yet it can't even hold a charge over night. I'm not sure what is causing this and would love any tips or stories from someone else!! Please help!!

loucksls92 - Reply

Beim Einbauen des neuen Akkus ist es sinnvoll diesen zuerst anzuschließen und dann erst wieder in die richtige Position zu bringen da man so dass Anschlusskabel besser verlegen kann

Andreas Richter - Reply

OMG thank you iFIXIT, the apple store wanted 3 times the cost of this repair kit. It took less than 5 minutes with most of the time spent trying to prise out the battery as it was glued in nice and tight but steady pressure from the spudger did the trick.

I think the best advice would be to touch nothing with your fingers as with careful use of the spudger I was able to position the tensioner point no problem. Everything else was nice 'n' easy.

Finally there was no cell connection only Wifi when I powered up so I simply powered down and up again and all is well in the world!

Thanks again.

Yvonne Frankl - Reply

The battery was incredibly hard to remove. I slid the spudger underneath the battery from the right side as far as it would go. Then, I worked it from the bottom to the top. The battery still was adhered and wouldn't budge using the pull tab. I wound up leaving the spudger underneath the battery at the top and then pressing down on the bottom of the battery to get leverage. After a few strong pushes, and then swapping the top and bottom in the last sentence, the old battery came loose.

I used tweezers to hold the tiny screws and align them with the screwdriver head before taking the screw to the destination hole.

One more tip.. if you don't have any other cartons or containers convenient, use the box that the product comes in as a workspace for holding the tiny screws while you work.

Steve B - Reply

good tips, i took a couple of photos so i knew what it should look like and removed the screws and placed them in the order i removed them pretty easy if you take your time and be gentle

Sam B -

Be VERY careful not to pull on the plastic tab before you fully detach the adhesive or else you will rip the tab clean off. If you did this it is still possible to remove the battery. I just used the guitar pick tool things to slowly work it through the adhesive and under the battery

Zach Mangs - Reply

It is possible to remove and replace the upper antenna WITHOUT removing the logic board!! So skip from step 7 to step 21 to 26 and 27.

What - Reply

Stuck on searching after unplugging and plugging in the battery?

This is due to the date and time being set back to default. To fix this you will need to synchronize the date and time back to what it is currently.

You can do this by either:

- Connecting the phone to either a Wi-Fi network, Cellular Network (Mobile Data).

- Connecting the phone to iTunes (It will synchronize the time automatically once iTunes is opened and can detect and access the iPhone).

Once the date and time is synced you will need to turn airplane mode off and one as it may display 'Searching... 3G' or if it still says searching (which most of the time happens if the sim card has a sim pin lock enabled on it) you will then need to turn the phone off and on.

Ben - Reply

Image 1/2: One 1.5 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the dock connector cable cover to the logic board:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips screw

  • Remove the metal dock connector cable cover.

Are the screw sizes switche up by any chance? A 4S i have here has the left hole bigger and one of the screws didn't want to go into the right hole when it went nicely into the left one.

primozresman - Reply

Fabulous tutorial! Many thanks! i have now a working iPhone back after display crash and glass brake!

In Step 8 I think the colors of the screws are inverted. The larger screw is at the left (near the sideboard) and the smaller is in the middle, near the battery (iPhone 4S).

Markus - Reply

Was trying to fix guide but accidently messed some things up in formatting and I too also believe the picture is incorrectly displaying the 1.5mm(which is the left screw) and the 1.2mm(which is the right screw.

Mars Starcruiser - Reply

I believe the guide is correct, but be careful as the screws are not the same as the other 1.2mm screws from later on. Length is the same, but the diameter is not... just keep them all separate.

Dave - Reply

Organizer: tape cheap duct tape tacky side up to a tray. Get a ball point or roller ball pen. For every screw, write step number and a letter for color (R, O, Y, etc.) then stick the screw there. I bumped the table and nothing moved. Also use a big white towel as a work surface: nothing bounces away if you drop it. This helped re-assembly

griffn - Reply

Also remove 4 screws holding metal cover plate adjacent to camera lens, remove plate to expose camera plug. when removing the rear facing camera, be careful not to loose the small grounding finger mentioned in step 21

Robin - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cellular antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  • De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

Ok, I did all the steps and phone seems to be OK, wifi is actually working again, yaaay.

But cellular connection is messed up. It will have full reception (5 pins) for about 10 seconds, then drop to 1 pin for a couple seconds, then go into "searching" mode. After a few seconds in "searching" mode it will go back to full reception and the process repeats itself in a timely fashion, over and over again. Obviously I messed up somewhere but where? Which connections are faulty/beyond repair?

Colorblend - Reply

I dismantled the phone again and concluded that the digitizer cable was kind of loose (don't know if that affected anything, but i put it down firmly this time). I had 2 problems, the cellular connection I mentioned plus the phone would charge to 3 percent, die, and then repeat the procedure. What I did was I took out the battery, the tin plate above the cables, and lifted the dock connector. So I did not redo that much. I cleaned all contact surfaces as I had been told but chose to not do before.... I also took out the grounding clip by the battery connectors and bent it upwards quite a bit while also peeling away 2 mm of the black insulation material on the back of the phone to make sure the grounding clip connects well to the back of the phone. I also cleaned that surface with window cleaner, which is basically isoprypol alcohol as has been recommended. The cellular antenna connector I pushed down firmly to make sure it was connected, I was gentler the first time, now everything works.

Colorblend - Reply

Note that the antenna cable goes around the the right side of that little guiding hook/finger. On the photo it shows the cable on the left of it. The hook is almost right below the socket.

jasperm - Reply

Image 1/1: You can use tweezers, a plastic opening tool, or a spudger to remove the outer plastic ring.
  • Be wary of the outer plastic ring located on top of the rear camera's flash assembly. It can be easily displaced if not removed during disassembly.

  • You can use tweezers, a plastic opening tool, or a spudger to remove the outer plastic ring.

Sometimes found stuck to the inside of the back cover.

Jeremy Jones - Reply

Don't do it!!! you can skip that, it will stay and its more of a pain to remove it.

Nic Harper - Reply

This is unnecessary step!! Don't do that!!

javamonk - Reply

Agreed, mine was stuck inside of the back cover

fidelvila - Reply

So was mine - thanks for telling! Rests of soft glue could be scratched off the place - so the ring was already off and I looked for it everywhere.

Ida - Reply

Mine was stuck to the cover too, thanks for posting.

davisyang - Reply

Image 1/1: One 2.7 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following four screws securing the cable cover to the logic board:

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips screw

On reassembly, note that the metal lip below the (red) 2.7mm screw and to the right of the (green) 1.2mm screw goes between the ribbon cable and the main logic board, as can be seen in the picture for Step 12. If you don't get this right, the 2.7mm screw is difficult and, worse, there's a risk the edge of the lip will tear the ribbon cable.

David Bruce - Reply

I had challenges here. As noted, the metal lip below the (red) 2.7mm screw and to the right of the (green) 1.2mm screw goes between the ribbon cable and the main logic board. That lip points away from you, towards the screen, THEN BENDS UP towards the power button. You need to pull the metal shield down a little (which stresses the ribbon cable) to get the hook-shaped feature free.

griffn -

The fastening on the board came loose when trying to remove screw the 1.2 mm Phillips screw. So the screw hole for that screw is still attached to the cover that I removed.

Aasmund Gravem - Reply

Got to step 13 and could not remove the 1.3mm screw (yellow circle), even using a different Phillips head screwdriver than the one that came with the kit. So frustrating. Was able to remove the other screws leading up to this point without difficulty (used the saran wrap trick on the other screws to prevent stripping, but this 1.3mm screw just would not budge).

Ended up abandoning the screen replacement--luckily the phone works after putting it back together.

Gayle - Reply

In my case, the 1.3 screw (yellow) wouldn't tighten on reassembly. I might have tightened too much so that it stripped the screw hole. Anyone know whether this has damaged the board in some way. The phone works fine, but concerned about the long run.

Casltech - Reply

Image 1/2: Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top and remove it from the iPhone.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board.

  • Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top and remove it from the iPhone.

If you just very slightly twist this plate clockwise as you are lifting it out, it will help as there is a little hooked piece at the lower edge on the very far right. You have to be careful not to turn it too much though because this hooked piece is right beside a ribbon that could be damaged.

Trisch - Reply

To add to Trisch's comment:

If turn the plate clockwise doesn't do the trick, the hooked piece on the lower right comes off when you pull the plate towards you a tiny bit. Still, watch out not breaking that ribbon the hooked piece is behind of.

jasperm - Reply

If you're having trouble removing the EMF shield, try using a plastic prying tool to lift the top right part while pushing it ever so slightly downwards with a finger. Consult this video for details:

oysteinespedal - Reply

Image 1/2: Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.

  • Remove the rear camera from the iPhone.

  • There is a small rubber gasket that sits underneath the rear-facing camera. Make sure that it is properly seated before reassembly.

Im pretty sure that when you reinsert the cam the grounding clip has go to between metal sticker and the cam body, or the camra wont be grounded

Michael Rygaard - Reply

I've got a trouble at this step. Is there anybody who could help me out with my problem? When I was removing the camera module, accidently removed small element, which is marked with the red line

As I figured out - that is the SMD capacitor. After that Iphone was switched on, and it seems to be working fine at the moment, but I am very scared, if it will continue to work well without that small piece. Anybody to help?

soubi8 - Reply

In my case, the grounding clip was taped to the camera! In addition, my repair process stopped at this step as the left screw on the power button had come out and was floating around next to the camera slightly stuck to the tape. This was lucky since a loose screw in an iPhone under the logic board would be a bad omen.

Michael Scollay - Reply

Image 1/2: This may require a significant amount of force.
  • Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

  • Remove the SIM card and its holder.

I have an Iphone 4 but the inerds look more like this 4S than the 4, except I do not have a SIM card port. What's up?

Dave - Reply

Probably a CDMA (Verizon) iPhone 4.

Pepper -

Is there a reason for waiting until step 18 to remove the sim card and its holder? I can do it right before I start without much force, is this not better?

jmaelzer - Reply

I don't see any reason. So it was my step 1 to remove the SIM card.

Ida -

I agree that the SIM card should be removed before you even start. After I completed this repair (waiting until this step to remove the SIM), the SIM card and holders won't go flush with the side of the phone anymore. The phone still works and everything else is fine, it's just annoying that I have a SIM holder sticking out about 1mm. I'm not certain this step caused this, but I'm just letting folks know that I agree with jmaelzer.

Song - Reply

for the life of me I can NOT get this sim card and holder out!

Lori - Reply

To be honest, it's really hard to remove SIM card without a correct tool.

Beck Sisyphus - Reply

You have to PUSH the paperclip IN, then the tray pops OUT.

Floris Jansen - Reply

I agree. Push in.

ivesrubl -

ifixit needs to edit this: "significant force" is NOT needed! I started to bend out the hole until I read the last post- just push the tool straight in, the SIM card will eject easily.

soopamandan - Reply

Is there any reason why you still have the ribbon cable under the little metalic plate (right under the sticker that says "Authorized Service Provider Only") plugged in in STEP 10. And it is without any instruction step removed in STEP 12? I mean it's not like it is complicated, but when I got to that part I was confused there for a minute that I forgot some step, and then reassured myself that I did everything as it said in the manual.

Tadeas Bucha - Reply

I have done everything correctly but when i turn the phone on all i get is a blank screen. The phone operates as normal i.e. it rings, vibrates etc but the screen is just blank so you can't actually do anything with it :(

anyone had the same issue?

mark - Reply

Image 1/2: Headphone jack/volume button cable
  • Remove the five cables near the top of the logic board in the following order:

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable

    • Front facing camera cable

    • Digitizer cable

    • Display data cable

    • Power button cable (located underneath the headphone jack/volume button cable as shown in the second picture.)

  • To disconnect the cables, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently lift their connectors up and out of the sockets on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any of the small and delicate surface mount components as you disconnect the cables.

There is an additional cable that you have to disconnect that's under the headphone jack cable. You have to do this before you try to remove the logic board. Otherwise, you'll rip that cable.. and I just freaking did.

Dennis - Reply

The digitizer cable won't reach! I've already ripped it off once. which disconnect are you talking about?

kct16k -

I just ripped off the power cable ... i can live without the power button though!

Oreste Attanasio - Reply

is that sarcasm or is there really a way to turn on the phone without the power button?

Sharn de Wet -

The only way to turn on an iPhone without a power button is to plug it in to power. If it was shut down while connected to a sync cable then disconnect and reconnect for it to turn on.

ben0509 -

I just broke off the power button as well because I forgot to disconnect the cable. Thank goodness for chargers and assistive touch!

grilledsoap -

Need to remove the shield over the connectors first. Look at the other guides for the 4S they show the 4 screws and how to lift the shield out, take out the camera etc.

Paul - Reply

During reassembly, I noticed that the data display cable is rather stiff. It may be a bit tricky to get it reconnected, but you'll know once it's in.

bsporer3 - Reply

That power cable connector is very delicate. I managed to tear it just a tiny bit in the curve of the cable too. So I’ve got another part on order now. Apart from that the screen replacement went great ;) I’m not sure at which step the tear actually happened, it might have been during re-assembly when I was trying to get all these cables to stay on top of rather than go behind the motherboard. Realizing how easy that is to tear and keeping that in mind as you do this is important.

james - Reply

I ripped the power button cable(didn't see it), any chance it could be outlined with a dotted color in the future? (I'm bad at reading the warnings)

Eli Goethel - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the grounding clip to the logic board near the headphone jack.

During reassembly, note that this small 1.5 mm screw goes into a thread in the head of the larger 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.

gregm - Reply

Image 1/2: Carefully grasp the grounding clip and remove it from the iPhone.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small grounding clip up off the logic board.

  • Carefully grasp the grounding clip and remove it from the iPhone.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the grounding clip (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

(be careful but gently forceful; the part doesn't come out without effort)

Carol Wade - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack.

I used a metal spudger from the Pro Tech Toolkit to remove the standoff, seemed to work better for me than a flathead screwdriver.

Dirk Blom - Reply

The flathead screwdriver provided is much too small to remove this piece!

gluethje76 - Reply

I recommend that steps 20 and 21 are swapped. It's much easier to remove the wifi antenna flex from the board using the blue spudger if the board/PCB is still secured with the 4.8mm screw.

Removing the screw first makes the PCB move up too much when you're trying to detach the wifi flex and can lead to mishaps.

Paul L Daniels - Reply

Not all screwdrivers are equal. I took mine in the shop and ground the blade thinner then made sure the end was square and flat. You can do this with an emery board or sand paper. You want a good fit in the stand-offs.

griffn - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna from the logic board.

Great Guide and thanks. Now...what if i snapped the wifi antenna cable together with its male connector from the board? Like tearing it apart ? Can this be replaced by any chance? Thanks!

spyrosandreou - Reply

I also had a problem with the connector breaking off, but after putting everything together, the WiFi seems to work like before, so I guess there is no problem there...

Dirk Blom - Reply

Ok so no fret here if you accidentally pull off the metal insert placed on top of the actual antenna. This step needs to be rewritten imo, the deal here is that there is an actual 'socket' looking deal underneath here that you need to lift up. There is a metal tab semi'glued' to that part of the antenna and it does come off easily, however all you need to do is press them back together to get them back, I believe it to be a range 'extender' of sorts.

So your looking to actually lift up what looks a lot like a ribbon cable as well in this step. YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE A PIECE REMOVED IN THIS STEP, it's still in the case at this point.

Ben - Reply

I have connected my wifi antenna to the phone but when my phone switches on the wifi button is a grey colour and won't let me turn it on, help?

melissamerin -

Image 1/2: Remove the 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the logic board near the power button.
  • If present, peel the piece of black tape covering the hidden screw near the power button.

  • Remove the 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the logic board near the power button.

    • (Use caution when removing this screw and removing the power contact held by it; the contact tab will come loose with the screw)

  • Notice the small rubber bumper under the screen & digitizer cables (which are detached at top above the Q-code). This bumper can fall off of the logic board when removed or get stuck to the cables and fall off later.

Dimension given are Length of screw. I think it meant to say 2.6mm screw.

Jon - Reply

Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it. It falls off after the logic board is removed and should be replaced before reassembly.

ghodges - Reply

where the heck does it go back on the logic board?! It fell off during removal and I cant seem to locate it in the pictures. :(

Shaun Brown -

As noted: Put the bumper back right above the white bar code label. The label says Q5M on the far right side. The bumper goes on the edge of the board to protect the ribbon cables that bend over the board.

griffn -

So, my 2.6 Philips screw near the power cable just spins and spins. It happened the first time, so I know I didn't strip it. Any ideas?

thebacks - Reply

So, I couldn't gind the tape and instead of digging around. I did what no one should do. I twisted and pulled. So now the screw that holds the upper left corner on broke that part of the logic board off. Everything else went back great....Phone won't turn on. Am I screwed here?

cdays01 - Reply

step 13 - “One 1.3 mm Phillips screw”

step -22 “Notice the small rubber bumper under the screen & digitizer cables (which are detached at top above the Q-code)”

“Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it”

now, the problem :-)

while assembly the iPhone I screw by mistake the 2.6 mm instead of the 1.3, and without noticing I break the 1.3 base screw from the motherboard :-/

Now, the rear camera is not working.

I couldn't figure in the picture above, if the rubber bumper you mean, is under that screw or above the Q5M tag ?

Can it be that the dewar camera don’t work because of that broken screw?

Any idea how to fix it?

Is there any option to buy the rubber bumper, if I lost it ?

Appreciate any help,


Simon - Reply

Under the screw is a ground clip from step 25. I tweezed it out here since it might bounce free while pulling logic board out. Use a big white towel as a work surface to prevent wayward bouncing bits from flying off the table.

griffn - Reply

Caution: the image with the QR code is "mirrored" --> look at it "reversed" !

jacquesfforster - Reply

Image 1/1: One 2.5 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor
  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the case:

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

    • One 3.6 mm standoff along the side of the logic board nearest the battery opening.

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the single 3.6 mm standoffscrew.

I used a metal spudger from the Pro Tech Toolkit to remove the standoff, seemed to work better for me than a flathead screwdriver.

Dirk Blom - Reply

The Kit Provided flat head screw driver didn't fit in the stand off screw heads on my IPhone 4s. I had to use it in only one side of the screw notch to slowly twist them out. Its doable but could use a larger flat head, but the blade needs to be micro thin.

Clay - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the logic board.
  • Carefully lift the logic board from the end closest to the speaker enclosure and slide it away from the top edge of the iPhone.

  • Remove the logic board.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the logic board (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

  • There is a small rubber bumper that sits on the top edge of the logic board where the digitizer and screen cables come through the case. It protects the cables as they bend over the top of the logic board. This can either get stuck to the cables or fall off the logic board when it comes out. Look back over step 22 for more details.

After I had lifted the logic board and moved around a little a small rubber piece fell off. Approx. 1 cm long and 2 mm wide. I'm guessing it's for some sort of isolation between the board and the chassis. Where should it go when I reassemble the phone?

The piece I'm referring to can be seen on the table in the upper right corner in this video:

Simon Fransson - Reply

It sits between the logic board top-edge and the two ribbon leads from the screen. Its purpose is to stop the PCB cutting in to the FPC leads over time due to vibrations. If you require I can send a photo.

Paul L Daniels -

hey, i removed the logic board and gave it a bit isopropanol spray. is this ok? how can i found out if it is working? is it possible to remove something from the logic board? thank you :)

bne - Reply

On reassembly, make sure you lift up the power button cable before installing circuit board. I thought I had all of the cables lifted until after getting to step 17 (in reverse) only to find out power cable was under the circuit board. Added 15 minutes to my process.

juanocasio - Reply

I had a similar problem as I was back tracking steps to perform something I missed and actually broken the power and sensor cable (the one that is connected to the digital board first during re-installation. A secondary order and another 20 minutes took care of it. Glad you were able to not hit that barrier.

mattwilber -

On reassembly, you are putting the plate under the spaghetti. I went back a few times to get all the cables out. Here is a check list before you tighten any logic board screws or try to jam the top edge of the board in place:

Counter clockwise from upper right near power button:

- Wi-Fi Cable from step 21

- 5 cables near the camera from step 17.The ‘blue’ power cable underneath loves to hide. The ‘orange’ front facing camera cable can get kinked under the board during re-install (no more selfies on this phone).

- Dock cable from step 9

- Cell Antenna from step 11

Go slow. Look twice.

griffn - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button. This finger rests on top of the PCB, screwed down, and covered with the adhesive black plastic tape.

if I LOSE it, what will happen?

Actually, i DID lose it.

XuKaimeng - Reply

Hi. This little clip is responsible for the image stabilization on the 4S. When the iPhone 4S was launched, one of the things that were different from iPhone 4 was Image Stabilization, specially when the user was filming. This clip holds the camera module in place while the phone is shaking in the hands of the user. Pretty high tech :D

Pedro de Almeida Silva Chaves -

Apparently it had uncovered my iPhone before, because when I did not find this piece uncapped here. I need to know which function is on the iPhone and if it is very important. How could I get?

Raul Tejada - Reply

Hi, I had the phone apart to replace the wifi chip.

Has anyone found a source for the two nano sized SMD resistors, because this also causes "no wifi" syndrome due to them being important for the I2C lines.

thanks!!! -A email testing_h "at "

Andre De Guerin - Reply

I think this is one of the parts I didn't put back in... Does it affect anything?

Also, Took apart my iPhone 4S to fix the screen and battery... Now the camera light doesn't turn on and I'm left with two pieces. Help!

Here are the parts:

Nicole - Reply

Left part: See step 5 - "Take notice of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector".

Right part: See step 25 - "Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button".

Simon Fransson -

I removed this in step 22 even though it only slightly alluded to it. If you did, too, don't panic. Go find your step 22 parts and verify it is there. :)

christopherjwells - Reply

What are the consequences of losing the 'small grounding finger for the rear view camera'?

3chris3rivers3 - Reply

Hi. This little clip is responsible for the image stabilization on the 4S.

Pedro de Almeida Silva Chaves -

I did it. No problems!!!

I used a Tupperware orange peeler as a plastic opening tool and didn't touched any screws oder other inner parts.

I had to do it two times, because my old 4S 64GB has a broken WLAN Chip on the logic board, and my wifes 4S has broken her display glass. So I took her logic board into my 4S body. Now we have one running iPhone 4S 64GB instead of two broken phones.

HaJo - Reply

HELP! Miy clip does look different, and i have no idea how to fit it in

slipknot660 - Reply

This little piece was missing when I opened my phone, seems it was lost last time I sent it to the repair shop for screen replacement.. :-( but it does take pictures

Jose Fernandez - Reply

Image 1/2: Remove the front facing camera retainer.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the metal front facing camera retainer away from the case of your iPhone.

  • Remove the front facing camera retainer.

This is really hard to get out. I broke 2 plastic spudgers (cheap/free) trying this

david - Reply

it might be an idea to mention that the retainer has three tiny little clips that point outwards from the camera and while taking it off is hard, putting it back on is even harder

david - Reply

Step 26 cause me great pain as well. I couldn't get it loose with the plastic spudgers. I had to break out a tiny metal screwdriver. I was so paranoid that I was going to break the part or the clip. The trick is to get under the clip's "fingers" that fasten it on the sides. The issue is that even my small my plastic spudger was too big to fit in the available space. Ultimately I got it to work with a micro flathead screwdriver, but it wasn't without serious concern.

Song - Reply

Using a micro flathead screwdriver did the trick. I found that prying from the top right corner worked best.

Dan - Reply

Yes, this is hard. It would be a lot easier if the guide had a picture of the retainer clip. I was successful with a spludger by lifting it on the upper left hand corner. Once you have it off, have a good look at it before putting it back on. Remember that it clips to the outside of the camera housing.

olafgoy - Reply

The clip has a hole and a groove. This is good enough to grab it with some pin tweezers from the top when replacing it.

olafgoy - Reply


it is unnecessary to remove this plate or the front camera. its very difficult to remove and very difficult to replace. totally unnecessary step. just be careful moving the flex cables around, that's the only thing that is in the way, the camera does not hinder the power/sensor cable.

Andrew - Reply

fyi my comment is based off replacing the power cable not the front camera, apparently the guides are just copied off one another. again, this is one of the hardest things ive done on an iPhone. if you are fixing the power cable, DO NOT pull out the front camera, NOT NEEDED and VERY HARD. im currently still trying to re-install the cover plate.

Andrew -

YES, DO NOT TAKE THIS PART OFF. The reason the guide says to take it off is because in step 30, it might get in the way. If you be a little more careful, the cable coming from the camera won't be a problem. However, if you do take the retainer and the camera off, you should expect your repair to last a couple more hours. I have spent several hours on some repairs trying to put the retainer back on, and then realized that it was 90% useless to do so.

Lolman Sherb -

I totally agree with Andrew, when changing the power and sensor cable, do not do this step. It is absolutely unnecessary and only increases the pain when reassembling your phone. That step should not be in the guide for the power cable replacement.

corgold - Reply

I agree with Andrew, this step is not needed.

Niels - Reply

If you are replacing the headphone jack, DO NOT DO THIS STEP! It's totally unnecessary.

nikbrauer - Reply

Based on comments here, I skipped this step fixing the power button and it was fine, you have a little less room to remove the earpiece wrapped in the power cable but if the removal was as hard as people describe, it was easily worth it.

davisyang - Reply

I could not reassemble the retainer. The legs would not go back to where they were meant to go and I badly bent one in the process. I replaced the retainer with a small dop of Blu-Tack ("a reusable putty-like pressure-sensitive adhesive"). This gets squashed down when you replace the logic board. This keeps the camera correctly positioned and works OK so far.

gregm - Reply

If youare changed the earpiece you can skip step 26 till 31. got to step 32 and remove the black clip without disassembly the earpiece assembly and then tear of the speaker. follow the steps of the crazyphones on youtube guide.

mikenuke - Reply

I think the key to getting this clip on is knowing that the fingers do not clip on the inside of the retainer, but slide over the top and the 'elbow' locks in the retainer openings. This makes it a ton easier.

klindgr - Reply

There is no need to remove the front facing camera or power button/flex. At this point you can just remove the retainer clip over the sensor assembly, pry the sensor assembly from it's holder, bring it back over and clear of the earpiece speaker, carefully pry the speaker from the frame, replace the speaker with new one, reassemble.

bearzac - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front facing camera.

I have no idea why this step is needed. I skipped over it and was successful at taking it apart

brewgurru - Reply

true, don't remove it

anakinskyfighter - Reply

Image 1/2: Take extra care with the display cables, which can prevent easy access to the right-hand screw. The cables are easily damaged.
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the power button bracket to the outer case.

    • Take extra care with the display cables, which can prevent easy access to the right-hand screw. The cables are easily damaged.

  • Slightly pull the power button bracket away from the outer case.

This is the most dangerous step of all !!! You have to be VERY careful with the digitizer and screen ribbon cables when you bend it back to unscrew lock button. It is best to partially remove the screen so that you can get the cables out of the way (you've already disassembled most of the phone anyway, a little more won't hurt). The first time that I did this repair, I ended up damaging the cable and my screen was useless. Many people that I have talked to suggest the same thing!

Felipe Da Cruz - Reply

This exact thing happened to me. Be very careful as a cheaper power/sensor cable repair can quickly turn into a more expensive screen replacement as well.

umagon1337 -

My screen is stuffed too. All because I bent the cables like the photo.

Stephen Shaw -

Yea, this went wrong in my attempted repair last night. It would be really great if step 28 included a warning here, or insert a step to remove the screen so those ribbon cables are safely out of the way!

I can't tell you how disappointing it is to find the cause of my failed repair in hidden comments 8^(

bdv - Reply

Another solution for this step is to carefully push the digitizer and screen ribbon cables down (into the back of the front screen) instead of bending them back. If you do this carefully, you can minimize how much the cables bend and still have enough clearance to angle a screwdriver in from the top to remove the rightmost screw.

This worked for me without damaging the cables. I did not have to remove the front screen either.

Michael Huynh - Reply

I tried this and it worked, thanks. I was worried with the comments about damaged video connectors, but everything luckily worked after putting it back together and powering on.

davisyang -

Also, if your "power button is stuck", you may not have to replace the whole power cable. After you unscrew the power button bracket, you should see a small black dot in the center of the gold colored area (where the button makes contact). Usually, stuck power buttons mean that either this black dot has worn away or has been shifted/misaligned. If the black dot is misaligned, put it back in the center and test if this has solved the issue. If the black dot does not exist, find/cut a small piece of rubber and carefully glue it to the center of the gold area. I cut a small piece of rubber from a thin o-ring and then used a dab of superglue to attach the rubber. Another commenter used nailpolish instead of rubber to create enough height to contact the power button. After all of this, screw the power bracket back on and test the power button. If the power button does not click, it may be that you screwed the bracket on too tightly such that the button is always depressed. Loosen the bracket screws.

Michael Huynh - Reply

I guess this is where I lost the screen. In any event... the power button now works, and I have sound, but no picture. I can't even punch in my PIN to reformat the phone and give it away.

steve - Reply

Btw, this was written in the comments for the 4S Power Button and Sensor Replacement, so if you see it anywhere else, caveat lector

steve -

I was careful but I did kill half the digitizer, presume a broken cable and will sell it for parts.

paulverket - Reply

The right hand screw thread stripped on my repair. I reassembled it with only the left hand screw holding it in and it is working OK.

gregm - Reply

Image 1/2: During reassembly, take note of the correct orientation of the power button. The metal loop should be facing downwards and the outward edges should be on top.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the power button from the iPhone.

  • During reassembly, take note of the correct orientation of the power button. The metal loop should be facing downwards and the outward edges should be on top.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Use a pair of tweezers to unfold the earpiece speaker from its recess in the outer case.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the earpiece speaker off the adhesive securing it to the outer case. Note that the power button cable is glued to the the case as well, and will need to be pried up.

  • Use a pair of tweezers to unfold the earpiece speaker from its recess in the outer case.

  • Be careful not to tear the cable from the earpiece speaker. They are adhered together, and the cable is very delicate.

Maybe it's just me, but I had a hard time getting the earpiece out as it was wrapped in the ribbon cable and also had adhesive on it. Folks should be super careful here. Ultimately I torn the cable, but since I was replacing it anyway, it was ok. It really had me worried for a bit.

Song - Reply

how are you supposed to stick the new wiring to the bits ?

This isnt worth doing.. Run the risk of your light sensor not working, and the lock button still not working.

12345 - Reply

i haven't done it yet but im looking at a replacement part and mine has double sided tape already affixed to the flex cable to secure it.

Im doing this job for a friend as trade for free haircuts lol

Andrew -

Waste of time.. I did this to fix my lock button. all it did was make my light sensor not work. lock button still doesnt work.

piece of !@#$

12345 - Reply

"Do not completely remove the earpiece speaker as it is still attached to the power and sensor cable assembly."

I just have one question: why?

It appears from the photos that there is enough play on the sensor/power cables to remove the earpiece speaker in this step if you're careful; avoiding steps 31 and 32 and jumping to 33. Any help would be great as I am about to attempt an earpiece speaker replacement tomorrow.

ladjr - Reply

I've torn the corner of the power ribben, the bottom right hand corner of the loop below the speaker. Will the ribben still work or do I need a new power ribben?

Doodling101 - Reply

Image 1/2: Gently pry the top sensor assembly off the outer case.
  • Use the edge of plastic opening tool to gently move the top sensor assembly away from the outer case.

  • Gently pry the top sensor assembly off the outer case.

I had a terrible time with this step, which doesn't mention that the tiny black clip holds the sensor in place. I finally got the clip off, and the sensor out, but the tiny black clip was deformed and I had a horrible time getting it back into place. All of the various ribbon cables are really working against you, too. The black clip is so tiny that it's very hard to align properly on the sensor (it wants to flip onto it's back and "turtle") and often pressing on it to snap it back into place simply bends it rather than locking it on.

I had accidentally broken the ribbon cable near the logic board connector for this whole assembly; now that the phone is back together, everything works EXCEPT the light sensor that I had to manipulate so extensively. I'm assuming I damaged either that portion of the cable, or the sensor itself, struggling to get it back into place with the clip.

Jason - Reply

IMPORTANT. As Jason mentions, there is a small black metal clip which you MUST remove first. It's actually got hooked ends so if you grab it from the middle and pull it will simply deform. Instead grab a small flat head screwdriver and place the flat of the blade under the metal clip - come in from the top at the point where the tiny hole is, then move the tool to the left (toward the speaker jack). It should ping the hook out (be careful it doesn't launch across the room!) and the piece will then just drop out.

Dave - Reply

READ - as Dave & Jason have both pointed out, the small black clip needs removing first.

This clip has two legs with inward facing prongs that extend down either side of the housing.

The leg on the left side appears to locate into a hole at the base of the housing, the right side slides back and forth in a horizontal slot.

I found the easiest way to remove is to first push the ribbon cable as flat as possible, to allow for the clip to slide over it, and with a small flat blade screwdriver come in vertically, don't try to get under the clip, in the top right corner between the clip and the housing.

Twist you screwdriver clockwise and you'll see the right side of the clip slide downwards toward the speaker end of your phone. Keep pushing this side until the prong clears the housing, then use tweezers to unhook the left prong.

Jim - Reply

Image 1/3: Be sure not to lose the small retainer clip located on the top sensor assembly.
  • Lift and remove the power and sensor cable assembly from the iPhone.

  • Be sure not to lose the small retainer clip located on the top sensor assembly.

I lost the clip.. now what do I do?

Helen - Reply

I found a bit tricky to refasten the little clip. I found it easier to fasten it right-side-first.

Niels - Reply

How to re install this little clip ?

Forgot how I removed it and now I am stuck for re installment ....

thierry28722 - Reply

eventually , I got it right , after at least one hour , with the help of Jason : Tip : when removing this clip , take a photo of it for re assembly .Before re assembly : re bend this clip right as it may have change chape . Place the sensors , put the clip above and put the right side on position below the two sensors then , push gently on the left by bending away with a small screwdriver, release and it may be locked.

This clip goes above the earpiece assembly .To get away with all the cables , glue them away temporarily with scotch on the battery compartment.

thierry28722 - Reply

Image 1/2: If you wish to reuse the earpiece speaker, try not to tear the foam adhesive that secures it to the iPhone's case.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the earpiece speaker off the foam adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • If you wish to reuse the earpiece speaker, try not to tear the foam adhesive that secures it to the iPhone's case.

  • Remove the earpiece speaker.

Go ahead and order a new speaker - its nearly impossible not to break the foam

nweeks - Reply

The foam can be replaced by similar double side tape.

davidsotl -

Tools plus parts plus shipping (FedEx) costs me about $100. Probably would cost about the same to have some do it for me, but what's the fun in that! The small magnetic mat is a must have, so handy.

davidsotl - Reply

Agree with "nweeks" on it being impossible not to break the foam. However, I reinstalled without the foam. Since the earpiece is wrapped in the ribbon cable and it's also very securely contained in the recess, I can't see the foam adding a ton of value. My phone worked fine after I reused the earpiece without any new foam.

Song - Reply

Its really easy to remove the foam and tape intact and re-use. grab an exacto blade and slice in between the flex cable and foam, once you have the edge started it will sparate pretty easily. dont worry about damaging the cable, you're replacing that anyway.

Andrew - Reply

I tried this and it worked easily. Thanks for the tip.

davisyang -

Does it matter which orientation the earpiece gets reattached to the cable?

Robert Lindsley - Reply

The second piece of tape was missing on the new speaker I purchased. The speaker buzzes for voice except for loud/slow speaking.

wmarkwitherspoon - Reply

On reassembly, fix the earphone speaker before the top sensor assembly. The first step is to glue the Power and Sensor Cable down on the iPhone base. Then put the earphone speaker on top of the cable, oriented as in the photos. Then bend the cable over the speaker and reassemble the top sensor assembly.

gregm - Reply

Note: be sure that the foam on your brand-new replacement sticker is centered properly! Mine was originally glued down onto the speaker improperly - off-center. This made the foam touch the actual speaker diaphragm instead of just sitting on the case, and made it extremely quiet - almost inaudible. It took two tear-downs for me to think of trying to re-seat the foam, but it immediately fixed the problem.

jil24 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Earpiece speaker remains.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

220 other people completed this guide.


Is the earpiece the same as for the iPhone 4?

info - Reply

Followed the steps and completed this guide with no problems. Very easy to follow and so happy to be able to hear my conversations now! :) thanks iFix it staff!

ifix - Reply

Fantastic Guide. Helped me to change speaker and Smashed lcd.

John - Reply

Be careful not to over-tighten the red screw in step 14, the head of the screw broke of with very little torque applied:( Apart from that minor mishap I worked though the guide in a little over 2 hours, big thanks for a fantastic guide!!!

Sandy Doull - Reply


I have an iphone 4s belonging to a friend whos speaker appears to be faulty.

When making calls the recipient sounds extremely muffled to the point of being inaudible.

As a technician I have never encountered an issue before whereby replacing the speaker didnt work.

The main test i performed was to take out the motherboard and place it into the chassis of a perfectly working iphone 4s and yet the problem still persisted.

Reason for the above is because it negates the need to individually test the dock connector and other various minor parts.

My question is where on the motherboard where this problem maybe occuring?

Is it the 2 copper plates that connect the speaker part to the m/b.

Is there any other way I can troubleshoot this?

Any help would be appreciated.

tommy murphy - Reply

Hardest repair ever attempted and completed. I couldn't believe it actually powered on afterwards!

Thank you for this guide. Couldn't have done this without it.

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