Introduction

Use this guide to replace the dock connector assembly, which includes the dock connector and lower microphone.

Image 1/1: Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
  • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe P2 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

The Liberation Kit just stripped the screw. Now what.

nimpsy - Reply

Had local iPhone repair shop remove the screw. Repair complete!

nimpsy -

I left the battery in and everything above the middle, using a pen knife to flex the logic board, I had plenty of room to else the old out and the new in.

Worked well and saved a lot of time.

Keith M - Reply

After reviewing the steps I decided to follow this guy's advice and left the battery in.....one less item to possibly foul up. I don't know if it made it any faster (first time to open my phone, so nothing to compare it to) but I can say that my phone is charging for the first time in 6 months :D

Jennifer -

BEFORE YOU START:

1) This is doable but not easy, quick or without risk.

2) If this is your 1st time, the whole process can take >2 hours (half of it reading this fixit manual and notes, which I highly recommend!)

3) I highly recommend placing a large, thin clean white cloth on the table. This prevents screws from rolling around and you will clearly see anything falling out.

4) If you have them, use tight surgical (latex) gloves. This prevents you from greasing up contacts.

5) Have e.g. a big old egg box ready, so you can place the screws in order (and maybe write step/screw size on the side).

6) I bought my display from "Generic" on Amazon ($20.36). Screen works fine and tools were ok but not great (screw drivers do not withstand force needed to unscrew some).

7) I had my own 2mm Phillips screw driver and a 2.4mm flat (for the big screws).

8) Have a nice cold beer by your side! Good luck!

superedu111 - Reply

Sounds like this comment relates to a screen replacement, not a rear panel replacement. No way a rear panel replacement would take 2 hours - can be done in 2 minutes!

Jonathan Deamer -

I was paranoid about stripping the pentalobes - I used the ifixit pentalobe screwdriver TOGETHER with a layer of Glad Wrap (cling film or saran wrap for the non-Aussies) over the pentalobe holes - absolutely no problems. Guess it helps the driver head gain purchase?

Anyway hat tip to this guy:

http://modmyi.com/forums/hardware/806092...

jimforbes - Reply

It's also called glad wrap in the US as well. :)

Scorppio500 Webmaster -

After seeing the comments about trouble finding the carrier, I shut down the phone, did a soft reset (by holding the power and home buttons until it started and then shut down and stayed off), and removed the SIM. After the repair, I replaced the SIM and plugged it in to the charger. It started up and found the carrier (Verizon, as it happens) immediately. I would guess that only the soft reset made a difference, but I did both.

DavidLewis - Reply

Thank you David, will I need to reload operating system if I replace thr logic board? I'm hoping to use a 32gb boards from a locked but working phone to place in my 8gb device. Thanks for your advice,

Sharif

Sharif Bagnulo -

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Reply

Here's a little vacuum trick for anything small: put nylons/panty hose over the end of the hose and then you don't have to dig thru the bag contents.

paul -

Marv you a first class pleb! Please don't try and fix anything again. Tool

ticklejahfancy -

It's clear who's at fault here, Marv.

It's as clear as the day has long legs. It's your Mom's fault.

Milfs who make earth-tone carpet choices, are more likely to twerk, than tweek.

And as far as trimmin the hedges are concerned, she's more likely to float a turd in the punchbowl,

than to give you your inch.

I know you think I'm crazy. But everyone else agrees. We all politely try to the other way...

Your cuck stops here. We'll not near me, go over there...

Nathan Brazil -

my screws are stipped and i am going though the front glass to get to the logic board could some one give me a guide on how to get to the board please... thanks

Caleb Croft - Reply

all you need to do is remove the clip over the wifi antenna and the one that actually attaches the wifi antenna to the iphone two steps to do this job...

Ray Leahy - Reply

The physical battery replacement went off without a hitch, and saw that the phone had no network connection, but also had no way to unlock. The slide lock said "Slide for Emergency Call" over my custom wallpaper and sliding would give the passcode screen, but it would reject the 6 digit passcode (it would buzz and go dark after the 4th digit, re-awakening and putting in the last 2 would indicate bad passcode). Very frustrating! I get it into recovery mode and convinced iTunes to "update" the OS, but it still didn't let me in. I performed a restore to fully factory reset the phone, and it worked! Sort of... the start screen kept being replaced by "Temperature - phone needs to cool down" but it's cold. Temp sensor is on the battery and returning to old battery fixed it. New battery is bad, and phone is wiped. Fun night.

I'm going to guess that disabling the password might save you from a similar fate. So, I'll suggest BEFORE YOU START, backup your phone and disable the passcode. Good luck.

Ian Epperson - Reply

Same here.. Going through that terrible night myself! Guess you had to return your battery right?

Nuno Alves -

Is it possible to replace front glass only? If so, please provide a manuel

Iva - Reply

Yes, it is. But it's very difficult and risky. Forget it... Have a look here: https://youtu.be/L_kCY05jR10

Jiri Altman -

Image 1/2: The panel will move about 2 mm. Image 2/2: The panel will move about 2 mm.
  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

how can i take out the screw if it is stripped

Manny Chaidez - Reply

with a small driller, but I guess it is very difficult. Never attempted that myself on an iPhone.

lantzero -

There is no screw in Step 2?

Is the screw stripped or the head stripped?

I have used superglue on the screwdriver to remove a stripped screw, it would turn but not come out, with superglue I could turn and pull the screw out. May also work on a stripped head.

Trevor -

If you are careful, use a Dremel tool and a micro drill bit (sold where Dremel tools are purchased) to drill it out. Last resort kind of thing, good luck.

Jack - Reply

Why isn't it moving? I removed my screws.

Thomas The Train - Reply

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Reply

I didn't see any extra screws holding the back in place. I had to use the included pry tool to get the back off. Just start at the bottom and pry gently...if you just "pull" like the guide says it won't work.

Brian - Reply

Don't use too much force to slide the back -- the back on my phone was hard to slide, and I bent and broke a silver metal contact tab at the top of the back (on the inside).

perryskeath - Reply

Super easy fix. Thanks for the tutorial!

Terrence Carlson - Reply

Those little screwdrivers are easy to mix up, for those of us without ultra-perfect vision! Once I used the correct screwdriver, and my 13yo son's little fingers and perfect eyes, it went smoothly! Also my son noticed that the rubber piece around the camera len was covering the camera; it likely slid out of place when sliding off the back cover. A little playing around (with plastic tools only!) and it looks perfect now!

ledouxr - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the rear panel from the iPhone.
  • Pull the rear panel away from the back of the iPhone, being careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • Remove the rear panel from the iPhone.

On reassembly, be sure to clean the metal plate at the place of contact with the tiny pressure contact mentioned in step 4.

Harald Brandt - Reply

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Reply

The replacement panel I got had two sheets of protective plastic on the inside and one on the outside. I used a toothpick to carefully lift and peel the two inside sheets off. One small one was over the lens on the inside. The other was over some large brown sheet of unknown function (though I think it goes over the battery). When I peel that away, some of the brown material tried to lift of with it, so be very careful.

dhein - Reply

From this point go to step ?? Just peel off the tape from the chip. Take some aluminium foil and cut a hole the size of the chip (Use a second layer of foil if you don't thrust it). Heat the chip as described at temperature 300 deg C for 5 minutes. Let it cool down. Reassemble and ..... hura WIFI is on again.

Lucasa Clearman - Reply

Image 1/3: One 1.7 mm Phillips screw Image 2/3: One 1.5 mm Phillips screw. Image 3/3: Use a plastic opening tool to gently detach the battery connector from the socket on the device. Start lifting off the connector from the bottom side, by placing the tip of the tool between the loudspeaker enclosure and the metal cover of the connector.
  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently detach the battery connector from the socket on the device. Start lifting off the connector from the bottom side, by placing the tip of the tool between the loudspeaker enclosure and the metal cover of the connector.

  • The battery connector comes off vertically from the logic board. Do not apply force sideways.

  • Pay attention to the pressure contact underneath the top screw of the battery connector. This may come loose while prying the battery connector from its socket.

On my phone at least, there is a small gold and black part held down under the top screw. It goes black side up with the pressure contact touching the back of the phone when the cover is in place. Keep an eye out for correct orientation as you dismantle.

James Molyneux - Reply

I also had a small black and gold connector held down by the top screw on this step.

Kevin Keenan - Reply

While the text refers to the pressure contact, the pictures do not show it clearly. The closet one that does has the yellow circle covering much of it. I was not sure if it was under or on top of the cover when re-installing. It's under.

gregsrow - Reply

This step needs a few more caveats.

The bottom screw on my phone was locked with some thread adhesive, and required more force to loosen it than I expected.

Even after removing the screws, the battery connector was rather firmly seated, and required a fair bit of persistent gentle prying with the opening tool before it came loose.

The ground clip came loose and nearly flew off while loosening the connector, so it would really help people if there were a warning on this step to watch out for the ground clip and make sure it doesn't bounce away.

threephi - Reply

Despite putting a large amount of pressure on the screw I can't get the blades of the 00 to take. Has anyone tried with a 000 and does it work better?

abeardsa - Reply

The 00 didn't work much for me but I had more success with a Phillips #0

DMcG -

I find the #00 doesn't work either. I use the #000 and it works better for me.

Keith -

The battery connector is attached to the battery. You're not going to completely lift it out and remove it. It pulls out from the socket you can see in step 5 picture 3. The pressure contact (little black and gold thing) will probably just slide out from under the connector. Not a problem.

DMcG - Reply

Which screwdriver works best then. I got the #00 philips from ifixit. I agree - it strips the screw and does not work. I don't recommend it.

I am now trying to buy another screwdriver - but which one. #0 or #000. Anyone done this. Please help!

andrepoon - Reply

I lost the screws securing the battery connector to the logic board, what happens when I turn on my iphone without securing screws, as shown in step 4, please solution. thank you

Afriyadi - Reply

The iFixit screwdriver that is recommended and provided will strip the screws here. HOLD OFF. I bought a ph000 screwdriver off the internet. Worked fine. Don't be tempted to proceed with the ph00 from iFixit. IT WILL STRIP!!

andrepoon - Reply

seconded. after shipping (to spain, plus surprise import taxes) and nearly $100, the 1.7 mm screw would not budge and ended up stripped. uncool.

jejerez -

I completed this repair without removing the battery. I think the guide should be edited to note that battery removal is not necessary.

M C - Reply

A little late to ask but how did you do this without taking the battery out? My screws are a pain to get out and if there is a better way of doing this then I'd like to try.

josephcon1998 -

I completed this successfully, but this step gave me the most trouble. The pressure contact is really difficult to reseat. So much so that it should probably be called out more clearly in it's own step.

Greg Fulco - Reply

If your pressure contact pops out you might find the video at http://www.hightechdad.com/2013/05/07/ho... helpful

Martin Cleaver - Reply

I found this link to be incredibly helpful in identifying how/ where to put the pressure contact back in place

Elizabeth Harris -

When reinstalling the position of pressure contact must be explained better! It took me about 5 min to understand how it fit!

Jorge - Reply

In french: attention avant de retirer le contacteur de la batterie. La vis du haut tient "en sandwich" une petite pièce métallique noire et dorée. Cette pièce a pour but de faire contact de masse avec le dos de l'iphone quand il est refermé. Donc il ne faut pas la tordre. Quand les deux vis du contacteur sont retirée, attention au moment de débrancher le contacteur: cela va faire bouger cette pièce qui ne doit pas être abîmée ni tordue. Au remontage, il faut bien la remettre en place sous le contacteur de batterie: il est tout à fait possible de mettre d'abord le contacteur, puis de glisser la petite pièce au dessous pour qu'elle soit bien à sa place, le trou en face du trou de vis et du trou du contacteur. En remettant la vis, la pièce tient bien en place. Elle doit bien continuer à dépasser de manière a faire contact avec le dos de l'iphone.

stephane lecreux - Reply

Top screw didn’t move with iFixit Philips #000 driver. The metal is too soft and in the result the screw was damaged while still in place. Having nothing to lose I also tried #00 and #0. Any way to remove the stuck screw? I would gladly saw it off if I could.

viktorcode - Reply

Ok, I had to drill the screw to break it. It was very delicate and time consuming operation. But in the end the screw cap finally broke off and I was able to remove the battery!

viktorcode -

The Liberation Kit Philips head screwdriver strips the battery connector screws! It stripped the ne 1.7 mm Phillips screw circled in red in the photo above. I was able to remove the other screw, then I lifted the battery connector off while the red screw was still in position and wound the connector around in circles while lifting upwards and managed to unscrew the stripped screw. Advice, find a decent philips heard screwdriver for the internal screws like the two found on the battery connector.

remsta - Reply

When reassembling, use EST tweezers to get align the pressure contact over the top screw hole. using the pointy end of a spudger to assist: put the point through top screw-hole on the battery connector, then through the pressure contact and into the screw-hole. this will help to keep the small piece in place while re-seating the battery connector. Leave the top hole spiked as such until the screw in the bottom hole is gently fastened. Remove the spudger and replace the top screw.

tallismanproductions - Reply

Pressure contact needs to be remain EXACTLY in the same position if you remove/replace battery. I had to re-open my iPhone 4S after a battery replacement (the mobile connectivity was lost) and tweak the position of the Pressure to restore functionality.

Peter Schoeman - Reply

Why do I have to remove the battery for disassembling the rear camera? Any idea?

Andreas Suck - Reply

Hi, I have a problem with that small piece which connect gsm antenna with the back cover. I missed that part and have a weak signal gsm, so I buy it and now when I put it there the Iphone wont turn on when the back cover is puted on. I know that somewhere is short-circuit but dont know how to solve it. Sorry for my english.

jurajtomecek7 - Reply

I used my 16x magnifier loupe to be certain I had the pressure sensor aligned with the screw hole - no problem, no stripping. I consider it indispensable for tricky steps like this, and IFixit sells a similar tool for just $14.

Jen Morris - Reply

The pressure connector is the battery connector under the silver plate. BE CAREFUL. It seems like it'd be really easy to tear that pressure connector out without meaning to. The bronze and black thing is the ground, *not* the pressure connector. If you remove it just keep track of it and re-install it.

Brian - Reply

this help me a lot, i just don't know how to fix it(bought it from http://www.laimarket.com/red-replacement...)

Dean - Reply

The phillips head screwdriver provided in the ifixit repair kit does not work well this these two screws after my first attempt at unscrewing the screws became stripped. The 1.7 mm phillips screw gave me the most trouble. It took an hour to unscrew after the screwdriver from the kit stripped the screw. I used a piece of masking tape over the screw for grip to loosen it, then used finger nail clippers as pliers to unscrew. I would recommend investing in a better screwdriver for this one step. Assembly is otherwise simple and easy.

teeteebaby5 - Reply

Here's a tip if you're having trouble removing the 1.7 mm screw. I had real problems removing it – the 1.5 mm screw came out easily using a Phillips #000 screwdriver but I almost stripped the 1.7 mm screw using the same screwdriver. What I did instead was use a flathead screwdriver from the iFixit pro tech toolkit I got, the one with a "–" sign and 1.0 size. That worked perfectly!

Lars - Reply

There's only one Philips screwdriver with the kit but it failed to unscrew the top 1.7mm one off the connector unfortunately. Is the kit supposed to come with both the 1.7 and 1.5mm Philips screwdrivers?

yanchou - Reply

When disconnecting the battery make sure to use a plastic tool not a metal tool that could short out the battery

Ethan Chow - Reply

I did not manage to get the screws out with a Phillips #000 Screwdriver; I used instead the J1000 head of the all-new pro tech toolkit

Jean Wallemacq - Reply

I would agree that a decent magnifier would help as the screws and components are small.

Also take necessary precautions to ensure the screws are not lost or mixed up.

Other than being a bit fiddly (particularly the earth connector), the only challenge I had not covered was that the battery was fixed with glue close to where the connector is and despite releasing the battery along the side, I couldn't get the battery to lift out using the tab. In the end I had to use the plastic tools to gently lever the battery away, working from the outside edge and ensuring I wasn't levering against the volume control buttons.

The new battery is in and following the advise given, I hard reset the phone and all my usual functions are now running... and if this £18:00 fix gives the phone another year or two of use, it will be well worth the effort.

Dave Mann - Reply

When i replaced my battery then my i phone4s suddenly diseabled to 4million hours or sonething big like that....So at the end i had to go for a flash..when it was updating in the middle there has been a error so my logo comes CONNECT TO ITUNES...so what can i do guzs????

ALBURT - Reply

Vous dites "Le connecteur de batterie s'enlève verticalement de la carte mère. Ne forcez pas latéralement"

Ou placez vous la verticalité ? pour moi c'est connecteur d'alimentation en bas, bouton d'alimentation en haut ?

Parce ce que sur la photo suivante, vous enlevez le connecteur de la gauche vers la droite ... c'est à dire latéralement ...

Soit nous n'avons pas le même sens vertical / horizontal, soit il y a un GROS problème dans l'explication, ou dans la traduction.

En tout cas, à la lecture de votre explication, j'ai essayé d'enlever le connecteur vers le haut !!

Donc il m'est maintenant impossible de remettre la batterie neuve, le connecteur est cassé !!!

Bravo pour l'expertise ifixit :(

Appoline - Reply

Image 1/3: When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference. Image 2/3: Take notice of the position of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector. This clip is attached only by the upper screw. When reinstalling, it must be aligned so the gold contact point will press against the back cover. Image 3/3: Be careful not to rip off the battery connector socket soldered on the logic board. There are 4 very small soldering points awaiting this mistake!
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pull the pressure contact from underneath the battery connector.

  • When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.

  • Take notice of the position of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector. This clip is attached only by the upper screw. When reinstalling, it must be aligned so the gold contact point will press against the back cover.

  • Be careful not to rip off the battery connector socket soldered on the logic board. There are 4 very small soldering points awaiting this mistake!

If I did accidentally remove the pressure contact point from the logic board...what do I do?

Samuel Z - Reply

I also did this. Not sure what its for? My phone appears to be fine now without it.

Ian Booth -

This picture needs to be greatly enlarged! The pressure plate sits directly underneath the battery connector, but cannot be seen here. It is also flat but about half the size of the battery connector, so you won't know you've ripped it up until you have! Picture two slices of bread but not the same size, stuck together.

S Byers - Reply

What if you pop off that pressure contact point?? What is its function? Is it impossible to re-attach?

Ian Booth - Reply

No idea what exactly this step means. I just pulled the battery connector without trying to move the pressure contact. Installed new battery, plugged in connector and aligned the pressure contact slightly for the screw to fit.

Got a big scare as the phone would not connect to the cell network at first boot, only WiFi. Shut it off and when it rebooted it seemed to work. WIll probably know in a day or so if everything works fine or if there are interference issues, etc.

andries - Reply

This is normal ... removing the battery resets internal clock to start value and your provider doesn't accept that, hence no network.

Going online through wifi or manually setting date right corrects this after a reboot.

Dreetn -

I also accidentally removed the pressure contact. I put it back in place as best I could during reassembly and so far haven't ran into any problems.

Maynard Stevens - Reply

The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?

ozarkana - Reply

After reassembling the iPhone I the GSM connection wasn't working. After cleaning all parts with isopropyl alcohol it still didn't work. What solved my problem was to turn on WiFi and then synchronizing the date and time which was set to 1970-01-01. After a reboot everything worked just fine. :)

Florian - Reply

I had the same problem. Thanks for the solution!!

Manolis Mylonakis -

thanks for this!

Bill McNamara -

The black ground contact needs still more "flagging." This is a simple metal strip that is attached ONLY by the 1.5mm (upper) screw. It will help if you look at it before you remove the upper screw. Notice the gold contact arm and point. That contact point must be in a plane above every other surface inside the device when you replace the battery connector, because it makes a ground contact with the metallic inner surface of the device back plate.

When I replaced it, I used the Pentalobe driver to line up battery connector and ground contact with the screw socket post. I then attached the 1.7mm (lower) screw loosely, removed the Pentalobe driver gently, and inserted the 1.5mm (upper) screw into the assembly. There is a tab on the ground contact that helps it align properly once pressure begins to applied. I completed driving the upper screw, pressing lightly with the spudger on the battery connector plate to make sure it was seated on the pressure contacts. Finally, I completed driving the lower screw.

Matt McCaffrey - Reply

This is a hard step because the directions and pictures are not very clear. This might help:

1) Here you HAVE TO disconnect the battery connecter (the language is confusing).

2) This is easier than it looks, as you can simply lift the connector upwards from any angle (I rested my plastic tool on the antenna and gently lifted it up).

The photo suggests you have to pull the connector backwards (which would be hard), this is not true, it can be lifted up towards you (the pins go out backwards and upwards, you'll see).

Finally, don't confuse the "pressure contact" with the "pressure contact point". You remove the contact, the contact point (underneath) sits on the board. No need to worry about this.

superedu111 - Reply

Very ambiguous instructions for amateurs like me. eg. "pressure contact" & "pressure contact point". Some labelling in the photos would be a great help.

Stephen Shaw - Reply

Wish the instructions had the warnings about the pressure contact before getting started. I removed it from the logic board because the warning was after the instructions. I managed to get it back in place and reassemble the phone. Nothing happened when I turned it on. Here I wrongly assumed the battery came pre-charged but it wasn't. I decided to plug it in to recharge it and was elated to see the empty battery symbol. I'm sending this from the phone!

jfksdca - Reply

I didn't find any need to remove the pressure contact. I just pried the battery connector up (gently) with a spudger and left the pressure contact in place. Connected the new battery and aligned the pressure contact screw hole. Replaced the screws, finished reassembly and all was good.

Roger Mercer - Reply

After reassembly, the CELL CONNECTION WASN'T WORKING. You might need to slightly bend the contact in step 5 up just a little, so it will make contact with the metal back plate. Did that and it worked perfectly.

Great kit, great instructions, thanks!

AirPhonesApp - Reply

all those teeny screws...and the world is so...well...BIG!

go slow and put those parts INTO something...

putting them "on" something will just cause heartache and and an infected bladder...

°¿°

after a lot of froofroo and very errant iphone behaviour problems, i concluded that that tiny grounding piece must be being lazy as hello. i spread it out a bit to ensure a better contact with the back plate and everything appears to be working smoothly.

did this repair, as well as the battery replacement...GTG!!!

spoke too soon, i 'spect...random reboots persist.

richard - Reply

Just went through the replacement and the battery "plug" (step 5) on my replacement battery was slightly misaligned relative to the metal plate used to screw it onto the board. The plastic and "gold" "plug" was slightly askew on the metal plate, which meant that when the plug was inserted, the screw holes (step 4) were poorly aligned.

I managed to pull everything back into line using the screws, but the QC on these replacement batteries is a bit suspect.

cvdwl - Reply

Guess what happens when you rotate that ground connector 180 degrees...it grounds what I deduced to be the heat sink of the power amplifier for the speaker! So it is silent. It took me a couple of attempts to discover this as I was distracted by the new speaker not sitting down properly and a little dot of stuff under the main connector stuck to the pins. The latter was cleaned-off with a pin under 5x magnification followed by some isopropyl alcohol.

I suggest that Step 5 is more explicit about the orientation of this ground connector. It's only obvious after a really close look and if one has a lot to do like I did, it's a long time before one comes back to this step so the correct orientation is not obvious.

Michael Scollay - Reply

If you magnify picture 4 or picture 5 twice, you can view the ground clip under the blue tool. You need to reinstall the ground clip with the copper color prong facing "up." I believe the ground clip is what many are calling the "pressure contact point" because the copper prong of the ground clip does indeed have pressure asserted to it when it contacts the back cover of the iPhone 4s.

Richard Riddle - Reply

I accidentally removed the pressure contact and I was not able to put it back in place and so far haven't ran into any problems. Is this safe??

Vasu Reddy - Reply

Image 1/2: Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case. Image 2/2: Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.
  • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the battery and the outer case near the bottom of the iPhone.

  • Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.

This can be very tricky because sometimes theres just too many glue on the back of the battery, and eventually the battery will be deformed.

Carlos Lopes - Reply

Yes, there did seem to be a lot of glue holding my battery in. At first I was afraid of breaking it, but after reading up on the subject I've learned that it is okay if the battery gets a little deformed. Due to the nature of the battery it will still work if slightly deformed.

djlogic26 - Reply

I found the plastic pull tab to be useless. Peeled pretty much the whole battery out from the left side. Used a probe to "break" a few strands of glue to help. Just watch the connector and ribbon cable in the lower left corner as you pry up so you don't crimp them or damage them.

gregsrow - Reply

DO NOT remove the battery unless absolutely necessary. If the battery is removed from the phone, DO NOT reuse it, ifixit does not seem to understand the importance of safely handling the battery

Tom Chai - Reply

Tom you have never been so wrong. Removing the battery is the FIRST step ANYONE should do before repairing or attempting repairs on their phone. The iPhone has many different grounding points in the phone and having electrical current running to it poses a massive risk, especially with ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge). People, PLEASE make sure you remove your phone's battery FIRST before doing any repairs. Use a plastic, not metal, spudger, after unhooking the battery from the logic board, place the spudger along the right side of the battery NOT under the volume buttons, about an inch and a half lower (two roughly if a sim card is present) and start prying it up using the frame as the fulcrum, as you start to lift the battery from the adhesive make sure you slide the spudger farther under to get even contact so you do not damage the battery.

Prestige Computer Solutions -

Try a used plastic credit/gift card to apply gentle pressure to lift the battery out of the phone, the short edge of the card fits within the gap on the logic board side between the battery and video cables. You can also use it on the opposite side if there is room between the battery and iPhone frame. This has worked on all of the 4 and 4s models I've replaced screens on.

I offer an alternative image if interested.

Wallace Karraker - Reply

Hello! My clients iphone 4s:n battery connector broke, when i tried accidentally take the battery out with a plastic tool from the wrong side.

Connector detached completely, so that the two middle ironcensors came with it and was stuck to the connector. When i screw the whole connector back to phone, it works with battery power, but the batterys downloading doesnt work. Are these two middle censors that are stuck in the connector exactly the ones that should be charging the battery? Do you know how i can fix this? I have already bought electrical conductor glue, but should the parts be cleaned somehow first? And how can i fix it, when the center metal sensors on the system board is also attached to the battery?

How can i clean out thiskind of part with windex? I have purchased almost all of the possible tools from iFixit and the electrical conductor glue i bought somewhere else. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/300915727408?ssP...)

SebastianK - Reply

Removing the battery wasn't necessary. I attempted the removal but decided not to in the end. It didn't get in the way at all.

BigFatCat - Reply

i also skipped the battery removal step. the battery didn't get in the way, but it did make it difficult to see if the wifi grounding fingers (step 14) were underneath the case lip. everything worked in the end though so i don't think removing the battery is a strict requirement.

rippergirl - Reply

How can you not remove the battery in a battery replacement fix? Step 14, there are only 7 steps. Me thinks these comments are getting mixed up between different fixes!

bluezzer -

I did not remove the battery to do a Speaker replacement and had no issues with getting the Speaker out/in. So, steps 4 and 5 are required but not step 6.

rcrodriguez2 - Reply

The plastic tab is not attached to the battery. I just pried from the right and slid tools under until I broke all the adhesive.

DMcG - Reply

I found it easier to start by pulling the plastic lip to loosen the battery, then, if needed, use the plastic tool to pry from the side.

superedu111 - Reply

I tried to get the battery out as depicted in the first picture. It deformed and is now broken. Not happy. It seems better to leave it or get it out by gently pulling the tab.

Paul Baars - Reply

Please, Please, PLEASE avoid using probing elements to try remove batteries. I have had dozens handed in to me with punctures and two that actually started smoking due to people trying to prise the battery out. DO NOT DO IT.

The best way I have found to remove the battery is this process;

1) Try remove it with the pull tab directly, some will come out, some will not. Do NOT use excessive pull force else it'll deform the battery and reduce the capacity.

2) If the pull test didn't work, then get a hot air gun on medium and warm up the area around the battery for about 30 seconds, focusing on the perimeter of the battery. If you see ANY popcorn'ing then you're too hot, you don't want to cook the battery.

2.1) Wait about 30 seconds for the heat to now wick underneath the battery to soften the adhesive.

2.2) Now try pull the battery up, the extra heat should have softened the glue that you can remove the battery without excessive force and without sticking objects under the battery.

Paul L Daniels - Reply

Image 1/2: Be careful not to pull the plastic pull tab too hard as it can be ripped off very easily. Image 2/2: Remove the battery.
  • Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Be careful not to pull the plastic pull tab too hard as it can be ripped off very easily.

  • Remove the battery.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Be VERY careful NOT to pull off the part of the connector that is on the logic board! Mine now has only contact but no solder until I can get a small enough soldering iron and a less shaky pair of hands!

Rob Hendricks - Reply

I lost the 1.5mm and 1.7mm screws when replacing my 4s battery. Is there a place that sells just these two screws? I bought a 4s screw kit from Zeeton.com but figuring out which screw out the of 39 screws were the the 1.5mm and 1.7mm was impossible.

admin - Reply

Buy a cheap pair of digital callipers ($20 -$30) and it will be clear. You can then use them to measure all kinds of things instead of squinting with a ruler.

bluezzer -

I bent the wire of the silent button on right top of the battery. Now the silent botton don't work. The wire on the bent is half-cut. BE CAREFUL when you put the new battery inside!

orzo - Reply

Was having a hard time getting the screws back into the battery connector. Read another tip online that helped - pushed the end of my phillips screwdriver into some soft candle wax which gave it just enough stickyness to have the screw stay attached to the screwdriver while I was moving it toward the hole. Thought I'd pass that along.

bill - Reply

I did as wazzamagu did (and stated above), "My Pentalobe tool was slightly magnetized so I used that to bring the screws in for tightening with the Philips screwdriver." That made replacing the screws fairly easy. Thanks for all the advice on this page. It was not hard at all. Go slow and carefully, everything is smaller in there than I expected. The "searching" thing came up as it seems for most people, but just took a reboot and all is fine.

amorteguy - Reply

TO ALL WITH NETWORK PROBLEMS!

I had the same issue with "searching network". After resetting the network settings in settings it did work perfectly!

Klemt - Reply

Took about 15 minutes. The only thing that was confusing was the reference to parts, using the partname, and I didn't know what they were referring to. So I had to figure it out by the photos. Slightly frustrating. Got it in and it worked. My problem then, was it kept SEARCHING and couldn't find my carrier. I followed everyones advice on here, plugged phone into my computer to itunes. then turned off network settings in settings, then turned them back on, and I got 3 bars. good to go.

sally -

Instructions were good and everything works fine after replacement. Needed to use a tweezer on the pressure contact on the top screw of the battery. Thanks

jeff - Reply

I swapped out the battery today. No real issues. Pretty easy task.

ddbbsr - Reply

For the past couple of months, my phone had been dying very fast. I knew that my phone's battery capacity was getting quite low as this phone is older now, and is out of warranty. So I ordered a replacement battery about a week ago, and just installed it yesterday. The install was pretty easy, if you pay attention to where everything belongs. But my draining issue has not gone away. It stays charged a bit longer, my capacity is at almost 100%, yet it can't even hold a charge over night. I'm not sure what is causing this and would love any tips or stories from someone else!! Please help!!

loucksls92 - Reply

Beim Einbauen des neuen Akkus ist es sinnvoll diesen zuerst anzuschließen und dann erst wieder in die richtige Position zu bringen da man so dass Anschlusskabel besser verlegen kann

Andreas Richter - Reply

OMG thank you iFIXIT, the apple store wanted 3 times the cost of this repair kit. It took less than 5 minutes with most of the time spent trying to prise out the battery as it was glued in nice and tight but steady pressure from the spudger did the trick.

I think the best advice would be to touch nothing with your fingers as with careful use of the spudger I was able to position the tensioner point no problem. Everything else was nice 'n' easy.

Finally there was no cell connection only Wifi when I powered up so I simply powered down and up again and all is well in the world!

Thanks again.

Yvonne Frankl - Reply

The battery was incredibly hard to remove. I slid the spudger underneath the battery from the right side as far as it would go. Then, I worked it from the bottom to the top. The battery still was adhered and wouldn't budge using the pull tab. I wound up leaving the spudger underneath the battery at the top and then pressing down on the bottom of the battery to get leverage. After a few strong pushes, and then swapping the top and bottom in the last sentence, the old battery came loose.

I used tweezers to hold the tiny screws and align them with the screwdriver head before taking the screw to the destination hole.

One more tip.. if you don't have any other cartons or containers convenient, use the box that the product comes in as a workspace for holding the tiny screws while you work.

Steve B - Reply

good tips, i took a couple of photos so i knew what it should look like and removed the screws and placed them in the order i removed them pretty easy if you take your time and be gentle

Sam B -

Be VERY careful not to pull on the plastic tab before you fully detach the adhesive or else you will rip the tab clean off. If you did this it is still possible to remove the battery. I just used the guitar pick tool things to slowly work it through the adhesive and under the battery

Zach Mangs - Reply

It is possible to remove and replace the upper antenna WITHOUT removing the logic board!! So skip from step 7 to step 21 to 26 and 27.

What - Reply

Stuck on searching after unplugging and plugging in the battery?

This is due to the date and time being set back to default. To fix this you will need to synchronize the date and time back to what it is currently.

You can do this by either:

- Connecting the phone to either a Wi-Fi network, Cellular Network (Mobile Data).

- Connecting the phone to iTunes (It will synchronize the time automatically once iTunes is opened and can detect and access the iPhone).

Once the date and time is synced you will need to turn airplane mode off and one as it may display 'Searching... 3G' or if it still says searching (which most of the time happens if the sim card has a sim pin lock enabled on it) you will then need to turn the phone off and on.

Ben - Reply

Watched the video and ordered the kit, followed all the steps and it all went brilliantly - thank you all so much.

diegodesignsbiz - Reply

Is it suggested that I add more adhesive with the replacement battery?

Sam Love - Reply

One thing I noted with the replacement battery - from AussieBattery here in Australia; not from iFixit - but the same problem might occur; is that the cable on the new battery had to be 'tamed' (bent here & there like on the old battery, before I could reseat the screws and even the battery itself. One again the black - pointy & flat ended - spudgers, that we use in desktop iMacs, were helpful in getting under that battery and releasing it from sticky-!&&*! I used a pair of '2.5' reading glasses for this job, but '3.0' might have been better, as those screws are INFINITESIMALLY small!!!!! :(

amicuset - Reply

Image 1/2: One 1.5 mm Phillips screw Image 2/2: One 1.2 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the dock connector cable cover to the logic board:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips screw

  • Remove the metal dock connector cable cover.

the ifixit #000 screwdriver is too big for the 1.5 mm Phillips screw &

1.2 mm Phillips screw!!!!!!

mothusi motswasele - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

When reassembling, peel adhesive strips off dock connector cable, but do not stick them down. First plug the cable into it's socket, then stick down the cable. It will make locating the plug in the socket easier.

rob - Reply

The metal piece with white and black areas stuck to the adhesive and pulled off the board for me. There are some chips under it. It popped back on the board and didn't seem to be a problem.

DMcG - Reply

Image 1/2: De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board. Image 2/2: De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cellular antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  • De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

Note, the pictures do not show the routing of the cable under the metal finger next to where the battery was. Make sure the cable is replaced under the finger when reassembling.

rob - Reply

The trickiest part for me was reconnecting the antenna cable to the socket. Do it carefully!

A tip is to mold the cable and connector so that it stays correctly aligned with the socket, and all you have to worry about is pressing the connector against the socket.

Felipe Pozzer - Reply

Bump on the comment re: no picture here shows the proper cable route. The text mentions being careful to route it under the metal finger, but no way to know where that it is from these pictures. The re-route is: around the left side of the screw socket and then the right side of the silver thing (finger) which is to the right of the battery connector.

gregsrow - Reply

In this picture (actually in all of them) the cellular antenna cable is not routed properly (red line). Be sure when reassembling your iPhone 4s to route the cable around the metal finger (yellow line).

<img src="http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g80/dr... target_blank">

drlewis506 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 2.4 mm Phillips screws securing the speaker enclosure assembly to the outer case.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the small black spacer that was under the Phillips screw near the vibrator.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Remove the speaker enclosure assembly. Image 2/3: Before reinstalling the speaker enclosure assembly's screws, be sure the Wi-Fi grounding fingers are installed below the lip in the iPhone's metal case as seen in the third picture. Image 3/3: Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points between the grounding fingers of the Wi-Fi antenna and the case of the iPhone with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to lift the speaker enclosure assembly out of the case, being sure not to damage the EMI fingers on the attached Wi-Fi antenna.

  • Remove the speaker enclosure assembly.

  • Before reinstalling the speaker enclosure assembly's screws, be sure the Wi-Fi grounding fingers are installed below the lip in the iPhone's metal case as seen in the third picture.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points between the grounding fingers of the Wi-Fi antenna and the case of the iPhone with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

The spring contacts on the speaker bottom make re-installing a bit tricky, since they make the speaker pop up until the screws are back in. If this happens, one or more of the fingers that are supposed to be under the case will pop out. What I found worked was to put the speaker in, getting the metal fingers under the case as directed, and then hold the speaker down with while putting the two screws in, along with that triangle piece.

gregsrow - Reply

I was holding the plastic triangle spacer in a pair of tweezers, and it shot out like a watermelon seed ya squeeze between your fingers!

It shot (I think) into a high-clutter area of the room and I can't find it. I made a replacement spacer out of plastic and I'll hope it works. Where am I going to buy a stupid little replacement spacer? I think I'm outta luck..

Mike McIntosh - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • If present, remove the small strip of tape covering one of the dock connector screws.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

be gentle! flap is delicate.

Sean Lin - Reply

The flap is basically a squared off U shape. In these pictures the hinge is at the bottom and the closed end of the U is at the top. You want to hinge it up so it's vertical. The cable connector will pull out towards the bottom of these pictures. It seemed to help to angle it towards the bottom of the phone a little to get it out of the socket. Same in reverse to put it back in.

DMcG - Reply

I forgot to fully press this home on reinstallation but it was probably at a less than 30 degree angle as when I later pressed the speaker fully home, there was a little "click" as the hinged retaining flap went back into place. This was checked later as OK while chasing a speaker NOP problem that was caused by the chassis earth near power connector being 180 degrees the wrong way thereby grounding the power amplifier of the speaker.

Michael Scollay - Reply

Image 1/1: There are tiny components on the back side of the ribbon, so be careful not to damage them upon ribbon removal.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button ribbon cable out of its socket.

  • There are tiny components on the back side of the ribbon, so be careful not to damage them upon ribbon removal.

This is tricky to put back in the socket when reassembling. Take care not to damage the cable as you try to line it up with the socket.

rob - Reply

With no effort at all, I tore the home button ribbon cable. Now I'll be doing FAR more complicated repair... once the part arrives. (Grumble).

marc - Reply

I must have damages the transistor looking things on the flip side of the ribbon. Maybe show a pic of the flip side?

I put on a virtual home button on your screen in Settings/General/Accessibility/AssistiveTouch.

BLEHH!!!

blsht411 - Reply

I think a better breakdown of this step is required. I have just blown out 2 home buttons because I couldn't see how it reassembled properly.

Kieran - Reply

You do need tweezers to replace the home button ribbon. I did it by hand and at first my home button was not working. Re did it after buying tweezers ( I am a bloke, so don't own them) and now all good. Thanks ifixit

Steve - Reply

I can't stress enough how important it is to take your time and be extremely careful with this cable. My 15 minute dock replacement turned into 1.5 hour phone disassemble because I presumably screwed up the transistors on the back of this cable when trying to re-seat it. Do not PUSH this cable in! Just fit it into the slot gently and lock the tab down.

becherd10 - Reply

Home button ribbon is EXTREMELY fragile. Mine tore taking it out and this turned into a way bigger project.

wolfperson1 - Reply

My two cents: Pulling with tweezers is very risky. I pushed with the tip of a wooden toothpick and gently eased the way of this little connector out of its *drawer*. Yes, this little strip slides out horizontally like a drawer. The dangerous moment comes when trying to put it back in, since you have to angle the little piece to make it slide in. Again avoid tweezers.

Pupi - Reply

Pupi, I found your toothpick suggestion perfect for this step. Toothpick(s) ended up being a better, more delicate, tool than tweezers for removing the ribbon cable from its socket. Thank you!

annazadent -

When the instructions say there are tiny components on the underside of the cable, look under the cable once you've removed it to understand where/what they are. They are tiny resistor like components, where you'd probably grip with your tweezers trying to get this thing back in. Don't grip further in than the width of the cable that connects perpendicular to the plug. Otherwise you can try gripping (very very gently) on the U shape of this cable safely when removing/reinserting the cable.

nikbrauer - Reply

I messed this up while reassembling. Didn't tear the ribbon like a number of unfortunate souls here (got lucky, I guess), but inserted underneath the slot instead of inside it. My heart sank when I tried using the phone and the Home button didn't work. Reopened through Step 17, then tried again and put it in the right slot. Duh. That thing is so tiny - I could have used a magnifying glass or something.

Curtis - Reply

As I am currently in reinstalling mode so following the steps in reverse and just completed reinserting the ribbon cable with difficulty so i'm not certain it is broken. Since I have it in now I'm not going to try again with my suggestion. But looking at it it seems that it would be easier to install the ribbon before screwing the dock connector back because it seems that it would slide in straight rather than trying to steer it in with tweezers, toothpicks, etc. By the way I used one of the dental floss things with the pick on the end but you probably don't have those in England (HAHA).

Ed V - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Carefully pull the rubber microphone holder out of its tube in the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the dock connector to the case of the iPhone.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the tiny rubber spacer near the dock connector.

not sure if this step is necessary. the rubber spacer was included in my new dock connector assembly.

Sean Lin - Reply

Image 1/2: If you are replacing the dock connector with a new part, make sure to transfer the rubber casing around the microphone. You can do this using a spudger. Image 2/2: If you are replacing the dock connector with a new part, make sure to transfer the rubber casing around the microphone. You can do this using a spudger.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the dock connector and its cable off the black plastic case of the iPhone.

  • If you are replacing the dock connector with a new part, make sure to transfer the rubber casing around the microphone. You can do this using a spudger.

a spudger probably would of made the rubber casing removal easier. they probably should of included a spudger on the list of recommended tools.

Sean Lin - Reply

The mic on my replacement had a thin strip of plastic over it. Didn't realize it until I put it all back together and had no mic for calls. Take a look before putting it back together.

samtruslow - Reply

Attention. The mic on the replacement part has a very small, round (ca. 1mm) plastic covering. It is only on the mic hole, not the entire mic body. You can peel it of with the plastic tool.

eivanov - Reply

I also have problem, callers could barely hear me on the lower microphone. I didn't noticed the plastic connector until iFixIt kindly sent me a replacement for free (these guys are way nice and cool!)

chrismallen -

If you are replacing the dock connector, be sure to also transfer the tiny shield braid that was attached (adhesive) to the dock connector's leftmost cable part where there is a free metal gold area that is supposed to be in electrical contact with the metal case's corner.

In addition, my replacement dock connector had no less than 4 plastic film covers over sticky parts that protected the adhesives. Remove these plastic films before you mount the connector.

Harald Brandt - Reply

Are you referring to that gold colored stuff on the bottom of the connector itself? Like on the ribbon cable that connects the thing to the logic board

Matthew Hirmiz -

Image 1/2: Remove the dock connector. Image 2/2: Remove the dock connector.
  • Pry the dock connector away from its opening at the bottom of the iPhone.

  • Remove the dock connector.

Caution, I broke the home button ribbon cable when the dock connector went out...

guillaumemunch - Reply

I broke the home button ribbon cable on the last step too. It was out, but got caught on something and easily broke off. Now I need a new part, and to take apart the whooole thing.

Smothers -

One piece of advice, unless your eyes are really good make sure to use one of those bench mounted illuminated magnifying glasses or some other visual add. Personally, I could not have done it otherwise as the parts are just too small. This should also help greatly to avoid breaking additional parts while in the phone and to insure proper assembly. As mentioned in my earlier post, I also purchased an inexpensive set of phone tools and used a small bowl to keep from loosing any parts. Happy repairing and thank again.

Mike McManus - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

631 other people completed this guide.

Team

iFixit Member of iFixit

Community

117 Members

5,146 Guides authored

34 Comments

After re-assembling the phone I get searching or very low signal, and the signal that i get is not 3G.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

I have cleaned the connectors and made sure that all connections were tight.

qnc - Reply

THe #00 screw driver does not work for all screws in the 4S so a smaller one is needed. Wasted my money on that one.

karl - Reply

When I had changed the dock connector, my iPhone was not able to get a carrier signal. I found an helpful answer in the forum which worked perfectly for me. Make sure you set the correct date and time (after you remove the battery, it will most probably show you 1970) remove the sim card and plug it in again. That worked for me.

corgold - Reply

I bought the pro tech toolkit and liberation kit and set my work area to the longest one hour of my life. Everything inside the 4s is so tiny and fragile, I was in constant fear of breaking something, but the teardown videos and the comments on this page really help me to get through the entire process.

Thank you everybody and let us continue tinkering our way through all the adversities in this life! Peace!

kinen - Reply

This guide was perfect! Very detailed and explained everything very well. Only thing I found confusing was step 17, but besides that it went perfectly smooth!

Mason Hollis - Reply

Just like @corgold have said, if you have problem with your cellular network(searching but not found the carrier) after remove batterie, you can fix that by removing the SIM card, connect your iPhone to iTunes on PC/Mac to fix the date to present(It show 01/01/1970!), reput the SIM card in the phone and voilà!!! It worked for me. Thank you guys very much!

hiver - Reply

Success!! Thank you iFixit. Only problem was the little rubber spacer from Step 20 didn't go back in but it doesn't seem to be a problem. I also had the issue with not recognizing the cell network but removing and replacing the SIM worked almost instantly.

ScottM - Reply

My 4s stopped charging and being synced by imac. Logic told me the dock was damaged. Being very careful I managed to break down the phone to replace the Dock connector. My first attempt saw me screw in the new dock and try connecting the home cable which proved too difficult. I took out the dock again connected the home button cable then realigned the dock. I had some difficulty getting those first few tiny screws back in and found a little bit of blue tack on the end of the #00 driver helps. All back together and working perfectly.

Paul Abrahams - Reply

I just replaced my docking port because it stopped charging. It's still not charging even with a new port, any ideas for my next step?

George Hedgepeth - Reply

I'm having the same problem... logic board may be?

Charles Bodart -

Overall a great guide!!! 1st Iphone repair ever and fixed it within 20 minutes! Thanks for an awesome guide!

Austin Groves - Reply

My replacement of the dock connector took about an hour. My microphone had stopped working, but bluetooth and speaker phone worked fine. Microphone in apps did not work. After replacing the dock connector my mic worked again. These are my takeaways: 1) I found it really helpful to have magnification. I bought the magnifier table lamp from ifixit. That helped tremendously. The parts are so tiny (esp the home button ribbon cable) that magnification made it so much easier. 2) The hardest part was replacing the home button ribbon cable. There are small circuits on the back of the head of the cable which are very delicate. Use tweezers and only in the far corner of the home ribbon tab when removing and replacing it. 3) I did remove the battery. It was not hard and it was not a big deal. I used the flat part of a spudger on the right side of the battery and gently pried it loose. There is glue all over the back of the battery. If you turn the phone on its side while doing you'll easily see the adhesive.

robertemcgee - Reply

Excellent guide, I followed all the steps and I got my phone back!

I wrote a small piece (in Spanish) with some photos on my blog in case you are interested:

IFIX IT KodeGeek blog

Regards,

--Jose

josevnz - Reply

After the first few steps I was worried I was in over my head, but kept at it. While reassembling, I was happy to see it turn back on, but freaked out a bit when the Home button didn't work. Turns out I messed up Step 17 - reopened it and got the ribbon connected, closed it back up, popped the SIM out and back in, and everything's working. Hooray!

Curtis - Reply

Excellent directions! Phone is up and running again.

James - Reply

I did this repair as well as installing a new battery in under 45 minutes was vere easy and only had help from a flashlight holder to get some better light (thanks dad).

justinking29 - Reply

Oh my goodness what a relief! I was all thumbs during this whole process. After it was all completed I realized the instructions were as clear as day and could not have been easier! No need to be intimidated folks this is simple straight forward and laid out VERY well by iFixIt.com

Sylvette Frempong - Reply

Went well took me 1hr 15 min. First time I ever open a iPhone in my life. Work great Thank You

WJBeedle - Reply

My 4S just stopped charging one day. I took a close look at the docking port and found it to have what looked like small burn marks. When I looked at the mating end of charging cable I found corresponding char marks on the contacts. To me it was obvious that moisture or something got on to the surface of the cable plug contacts allowing them to short out when plugged into the phone. I had considered just buying a replacement 4S and being done with it, but that was not cost effective. I was only 5 months away from my upgrade date and needed to keep this phone going until then. So being an equipment guy I started looking for a way of replacing just the dock port and found Gadgettron on ebay. It looked like he had an extensive selection of genuine OEM iPhone parts and tools. Being in San Jose he was local and made receiving my parts very quick. However, what made the repair a viable option was finding this tutorial. It is well put together making it a very excellent resource. 4S is back up; THANK YOU!

Mike McManus - Reply

Comments are for Replace the Dock Connector.

Great guide! And comments from others were very helpful as well.

Took an hour.

The points that helped me most:

1) I had LOTs of light.

2) I had a hands-free magnifier. I used the type that straps onto your head.

3) I laid down a white sheet to do the work on.

4) I used a divider tray to keep each individual screw/piece as I took them off.

5) I used a #000 phillips screwdriver. I can't imagine doing this with something bigger.

6) I had the guide right beside me, so I could walk along with it, step by step, both during the disassembly and then during the reassembly.

7) I wore gloves so I wouldn't have to mess with cleaning up oils. I made sure not to wipe my face with the gloves. :)

Some other comments:

Re-inserting the cable from the home button is awkward. I remained patient and >gently< persisted until it entered its slot.

bcpaquette - Reply

This guide is very good and detailed. My phone's charge dock was burned. Followed the steps and I did it. Very proud of myself. Thank ifixit providing such detailed instructions. Great experience.

michelleyu2000 - Reply

OK, I assumed my wife's dock connector needed replacing because she could only use the speaker function to be heard. After spending a couple hours doing this replacement (30+ minutes spent looking for a screw I thought I dropped, only to realize I put it in the wrong container while taking things apart, I had individual containers for parts at each step), anyway, while the microphone worked a little better, it still sounded like talking underwater. Looking at the speaker screen along the bottom on the outside, it looked a bit clogged up, probably a combination of makeup and sweat off of her face. So, with not much to loose, I took it into the shop and gently blew some compressed air through the screen. It appears to have been the problem, microphone works at normal speaking levels now and the other person can hear you clearly.

blamb11 - Reply

The title of this guide should be "Dock Connector and Lower Microphone". I ordered a new dock connector on the premise of one forum comment that said for a lower microphone problem "replace the dock connector as this part includes the lower microphone". All repair sites simply refer to the part as a "Dock Connector" when it really supports additional important functions.

Michael Scollay - Reply

After the repair, my sound is cracked/distorted. Did i clean it wrong or whats the problem?

slipknot660 - Reply

This really helped and was quite straightforward. Thank you for such a nice guide. The pictures were quite helpful.

kpkane01 - Reply

Great instructions. iFixit's associated video is great to watch, but misses a few steps (like step 13, the little triangular thingie). These instructions were much better. I used the small screwdriver previously purchased from iFixit, magnetized it (which REALLY helped get the screws back in), took lots of photos as I disassembled it, and used numerous small jars with stickie notes to keep each set of screws separate. I also used a lighted table magnifier (like old people use for reading). My new cable works great, thank you once again!

pmsynk - Reply

Yeaaaaaaaaah! Thanks so much. Saved me a lot of time. Everything went as planned. I almost gave up when having to reconnect the home button ribbon but otherwise. YEEESS!

alecseastman - Reply

I changed my dock connector and now it says it's charging but won't actually charge battery. Help?

Matthew Hirmiz - Reply

At some point towards the end of the disassembly, possibly when removing the dock connector out popped a tiny black rubber rectangle. It's 2mm long x1.5 mm wide x 1mm thick with adhesive on one side. I can't find any mention of it anywhere. I doubt it's important, but I hate extra pieces :/

Mahir Abrahim - Reply

Hello All, Guide is perfect. I replaced the dock 'cause internal microphone was not working, so people could not hear me but using headphones. Siri was not working. Now, after the change, Siri is ok and voice memo are ok so i guess the mic problem is ok but the IPHONE IS NOT CHARGING anymore. And is not recognized when connected to the mac. Any suggestion?

Francesco Garuti - Reply

SOLVED: it was simply a defective part. Replaced again (for free) and perfectly working

Francesco Garuti -

Thanks you very much !!!!!!!!!!!! You saved my iPhone.

rgdsikjrvsd - Reply

I had battery drain and power-off issue, (my phone could not power off completely, it booted up immediately after power off procedure) it was resolved by replacing the connector! As mentioned Step 17 must be done gently, I broke ZIF socket while disassembling it. (It was okey since the parts was replaced with new one any way.)

Domosute - Reply

Phone is working again! Hoorah... Thank you!!

Restricka - Reply

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