Introduction

Use this guide to replace a blown speaker enclosure closest to the bottom edge of the iPhone 4 Verizon.

Image 1/2: Your phone's rear cover may have two #000 Phillips screws '''or''' Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws. Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Your phone's rear cover may have two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws. Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

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Image 1/2: The panel will move about 2 mm.
  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

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Image 1/1: Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.
  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers, and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board (if present).

you do not need to take the battery out as chuck said so you dont run the risk of braking the battery connector socket from the logic board

22therealala - Reply

Won't you need the battery removed to access the large-headed screws on the side which hold the front display?

Casey Baierl -

In my situation, the #00 screwdriver had a hard time trying to get the screws off. Using a glasses screwdriver kit may be a better alternative if the screws are resistant to the #00 screwdriver.

tjaeger - Reply

Image 1/1: Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

  • Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

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Image 1/2: If the tab breaks before the battery is freed, carefully slide a spudger under the battery to release the adhesive without puncturing the battery cell.
  • Pull up on the exposed clear plastic tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • If the tab breaks before the battery is freed, carefully slide a spudger under the battery to release the adhesive without puncturing the battery cell.

  • Remove the battery.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)

Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.

Matt Strange - Reply

It is much easier to slightly WARM the battery with a HAIRDRYER not a HEAT GUN to soften the adhesive. DO NOT GET BATTERY HOT AND DO NOT USE HEAT GUN

Joe -

I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.

kamullins4135 -

The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

martin474 - Reply

I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

alsmith1928 - Reply

Image 1/2: Remove the metal dock connector cable cover.
  • Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the dock connector cable cover to the logic board.

  • Remove the metal dock connector cable cover.

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Image 1/1:
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

This repair went well overall, but I thought I would add a couple comments on this step. Once I got my iPhone back together, it would not charge and the home button didn't work. I took it back apart and realized that the dock cable was not seated. After many attempts, I finally got it seated correctly and you can feel it "click" into place. The metal rectangle that holds it on should sit FLAT and not have any bulge. If you have a bulge, that means the dock cable is not seated correctly.

tobykanobe - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

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Image 1/2: Remove the pressure contact.
  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw securing the pressure contact to the logic board near the vibrator.

  • Remove the pressure contact.

  • When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.

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Image 1/2: De-route the Wi-Fi antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the Wi-Fi antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  • De-route the Wi-Fi antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 2.4 mm Phillips screws securing the speaker enclosure assembly to the outer case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the small black spacer that was under the Phillips screw near the vibrator.

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Image 1/3: Remove the speaker enclosure assembly.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to lift the speaker enclosure assembly out of the case, being sure not to damage the EMI fingers on the attached Wi-Fi antenna.

  • Remove the speaker enclosure assembly.

  • Before reinstalling the speaker enclosure assembly's screws, be sure the Wi-Fi grounding fingers are installed below the lip in the iPhone's metal case as seen in the third picture.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points between the grounding fingers of the Wi-Fi antenna and the case of the iPhone with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the cellular antenna to the speaker enclosure.

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Image 1/3: Continue peeling the cellular antenna off the speaker enclosure, being careful not to rip the gold bracket attached to one of its edges.
  • Starting near the cellular antenna cable, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the antenna off the speaker enclosure.

  • Continue peeling the cellular antenna off the speaker enclosure, being careful not to rip the gold bracket attached to one of its edges.

  • Remove the cellular antenna.

"When installing a new cellular antenna, be sure to slide the gold bracket over the ear molded into the speaker enclosure before sticking the antenna down."

This is all that is noted about this small gold bracket. However, this is probably one of the most important pieces of information on this topic.

Having a picture of the placement of this small copper (gold) component would be helpful. When searching the internet there are no images or pictures of the placement of this component. This includes this site. Searching discussions on this topic I have found that and is probably one of the most overlooked problems after someone replaces their screen and they are not able to get reception.

I

Jorge - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • When installing a new cellular antenna, be sure to slide the gold bracket over the ear molded into the speaker enclosure before sticking the antenna down.

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Image 1/1:
  • Speaker enclosure remains.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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