iPhone 4 Rear Camera Replacement

Removing your iPhone 4's 5 MP rear camera.

Use this guide to remove the iPhone's primary rear camera.

Note: Removing the battery allows better access to the plate covering the rear camera's connector. However, it is not absolutely necessary to remove the battery. If your battery is particularly difficult to remove, leave it in and work around it.

Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Your iPhone 4 rear cover may have either two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws (second image). Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • If you are installing a new rear panel, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area near the lens.

Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • Some devices may have two screws, one of which holds down the contact pad which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

  • Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone.

  • Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone.

  • You may need to use a plastic opening tool to loosen the adhesive under the battery.

  • Remove the contact clip from the iPhone.

  • Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip (shown in red) is properly positioned next to the battery connector.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the pressure contact as well as its contact point on the rear panel with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Edit Step 7 Rear Camera  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7 Rear Camera  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws securing the connector cover to the iPhone:

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips

    • Two 1.6 mm Phillips

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips

    • One 4.8 mm Phillips

  • Remark: in order to remember their proper positions, it might be helpful to draw 5 circles on a sheet of paper, placing each screw in the corresponding circle.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the connector cover away from the logic board.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the connector cover retaining clips away from the inner frame.

  • Remove the connector cover from the iPhone.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the connector cover with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

  • There is a tiny metal part on the top screw hole, make sure this stays on. It's a key part of the wireless and GPS antenna.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to carefully lift the rear camera connector up off its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the rear camera from the iPhone avoiding to move some of the connectors to the right.

  • After reinserting the new camera, verify these connectors if the IPhone does not power on.

  • Remark: The battery (not shown on the photos) should be disconnected but doesn't need to be removed entirely.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4 device page.

Required Tools

P2 Pentalobe Screwdriver iPhone

$7.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #000 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

iPhone 4 Rear Camera

$17.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

This was super simple. My camera was not focusing after a previous company replaced it due to a faulty flash. I decided to take things into my own hands...no pun intended.

The instructions are super simple and easy to follow. Be aware of the loose clip under the connector - mine flew out - and I was worried I wouldn't figure out how to get it back in.

I also had to use a #0 screwdriver...#00 was too large.

I couldn't get the battery out...so, I was just super careful that the phone was off, and remained off during the repair.

Out with the defective camera...in with the functioning camera...replaced a couple of screws and the battery connector. Tested the camera prior to replacing everything.

Thank you ifixit!

You ROCK!!!

TechxaSolutions, · Reply

Hi guys. I just did it ! I would not describe it as super easy, but thanks to the screw template provided file, even the now famous pressure contact can not be lost ;-)

I just wanted to comment, not only to praise iFixit (and myself), but also to mention two side effects I had to overcome:

-First, when finished, the power button did not work (I had to plug the Dock Connector to start the phone). As I the power button is not so far from the rear camera, I figured out something went wrong in the reassembly. Since I had just done it once, I thought I could do it a second time, so I removed the newly assembled camera and reassembled it with extra caution. At the end, the power button worked as expected.

-Second: each time I restarted the phone after reassembly (twice, then), the SIM card would not unlock after the PIN code was entered. I had to remove and reinsert the SIM card for the PIN code to finally unlock it.

Otherwise, everything went smoothly, thanks again to the iFixit guys !

tibomartinperso, · Reply

Fantastic!!! my problem was the rear camera, when i switch on the camera app the screen were completely black and the torch was not working at all! I buyed the tools and the rear camera everything arrived here in Italy in perfect time as scheduled and in one hour I did the job !!! now my iphone camera is perfectly up and running !!! thanks to IFIXIT.COM and their guides!

vflip, · Reply

hello guys ! I have done the replacement correctly because my camera wasn't able to focus anymore ! But now the flash light isn't working anymore :(( what can i do ?

Sincerly,

Antoine

antoinevalen, · Reply

Thank you for the guide on the Camera replacement. However it is not necessary to remove the battery entirely but just to disconnect it. The battery is usually firmly glued and a lot of time is wasted. This guide on Camera replacement (3142) should not include the full guide "iPhone 4 Battery Replacement (3141)" but a shorter guide "iPhone 4 Battery disconnection (24135)" which I wrote. Unfortunately, my changes have be denied without any comment. In my recent edits of this guide (which have been denied too!) I also mentioned that when extracting the camera, you can unfortunately unplug some of the connectors located at the bottom right of the camera. They should be firmly plugged again otherwise (and this was my case) the Iphone may not power on. If you agree with my changes, could you look at my edits in the history of this guide and insert them again because they will answer to some of the general questions above.

revher, · Reply

Excellent guide. Got my defective rear camera out that was causing overheating issues and battery drain, and now everything's working back to normal! Saved me a lot of money, and buys me enough time until my next phone upgrade. Thank you!

Rich Brinehall, · Reply

Caution: New phones may contain T1 screw heads instead of Phillips.

ajg35, · Reply

any news on those screwdrivers? where can we buy them?

grze,

using something like the 18-compartment tray will GREATLY help with this one; there are over a dozen groups of parts. For re-assembly having a digital calipers to measure the 2.4 vs the 2.6mm screws also helps greatly.

awr, · Reply

My method for hardware management during delicate phone surgery is to take and print out on 8.5"x11' paper, one or more pictures of the open phone in various stages of disassembly, and then tape the screws to the appropriate spots on the pictures. Also write numbers on the pictures next the screws to indicate the order in which you removed them.

lens42,

I did a successful surgery on my iPhone, be warned this is not for the faint of heart!

I've done iPod screen replacements, battery replacements, this is by far much more difficult and intricate.

Great write up! Thanks a million.

Jaysen Strange, · Reply

I've changed some iPod screens as well and that has been the least pleasant experience so far. Glue and the main connector that has to be unwrapped and connected from the rear where you have no feel or control where it belongs.

iPhone repair is complex, but doable and has very few "traps".

mcbohdo,

Couldn't even get both screws out of the bottom of the case. One was easy and other refuses to budge. Screws so small I can't see if it is turning or screw driver is properly seated. Sad I too have done screen replacements on other phones. Don't know any secrets to get the screw out

ckracht, · Reply

I also have a problem with seeing what is happening with some of those tiny little screws and parts. For other projects that I do, I use an Opti-Visor. It slips over your head and provides 10x magnification. ( You can find them on Amazon).

Yeah, it adds cost to the project and you would have to wait for delivery, but it sure makes a world of difference in seeing what you are working with / on.

jhow,

On an early iPhone 4 I found that the #000 Phillips bit included in the 54 Bit Driver Kit didn't actually fit the screws. However the JIS #000 also in the kit did fit quite well. This is due to the JIS bits "thinner" design to prevent camming out of the slot. Otherwise everything went well. Looking forward to replacing the battery in my other phone that has the pentalobe screws. Glad I got the 54 Bit kit!

etler, · Reply

Use a vacuum duster and a sharp tool to pry out the dust, this can increase the volume insanely!

Dpairs, · Reply

At the very last second before insertion, the second new screw for the bottom popped out of my pliers! I dont' want to use the old ones, but I don't want to leave it with one screw. Can I get a replacement screw?

Otherwise it went together fine, and I figured out for myselkf that the contact needs to be bent,,,

loujudson, · Reply

What does the park that is gold and next to the 4.8mm screw for the antenna? Looks like I am missing that part and almost positive that is why I can't pick up or connect to any wifi signals. I have the screw and the antenna from another phone that is working and tried it on the broken phone and still doesn't work. Only thing different is that gold metal piece to the left of that 4.8 mm screw. Can I buy that part? how do I attach it?

Jay Pennington, · Reply

great instructions did it the first time

Mr J, · Reply

very informative i also visit http://itrepairguide.com/iphone-4-intern...…/

before this which is also too easy

saam, · Reply

the back won't budge! I cant get it off! what do i do?

Debbie, · Reply

using suction cup with too much force breaks rear panel

lily einstein, · Reply

Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board- for me this Phillips screw won't budge from its place have tried all the phillips combinations 000, 00, 0, 1 and the straight /slotted 1.5 mm but nothing. can some help me please purchased a replacement battery for my iPhone 4 but not able to do it just because of this screw.

Naved Zaidi, · Reply

If the screw head is not buggered, press the tip of a hot soldering iron to the screw for a second or two. Don't get it too hot, or you'll damage something.

splaye,

I was going through the take apart and after reassembly, it seems to just sit there an power cycle. It's as though the battery is no longer working. Any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong?

Social Apples, · Reply

Use #000 fine screw driver!!!

bfbogaert, · Reply

Use an #000 fine screw driver to remove two screws from iPhone 4s!

bfbogaert, · Reply

There is a metal bracket that secures the connector, that will be removed before the conector is unfasten

poseido, · Reply

When I used a plastic opening tool to gently disconnect the battery connector from its socket, I accidently remove the socket too.. Now what? :( ......

odisseas, · Reply

Stuck on step 4 can't unscrew the battery screw. stopped trying as all i seem to be doing is damaging the screw any tips as to how to approach this?

Tazziii, · Reply

my phone doesnt have a screw that connects the battery to the logic bored...is that a problem?

sadie, · Reply

I didn't need to remove the battery !! why would you take the battery away, the motor can be removed easily with the battery in place, and the whole process would take less than 2 minutes if you exclude the battery steps

Mohammed Fahmy, · Reply

I have trouble with the screw: I bought my used and now opened it for the first time. The screw is totally messed up, I can't unscrew it because the screwdriver doesn't fit in the screw/doesn't unscrew it. What can I do?

dfrisch86, · Reply

Installed new battery without a problem. Now it does not hold a charge for more than 4 hours. Phone works fine but what did I do wrong?

Mary OBrien, · Reply

I was VERY careful but the interior philips screw holding the battery in place but it stripped immediately. I see others have had this problem. What do I do now?!

tbodington, · Reply

I've tried three different #000 drivers but they don't fit this screw. Stuck now. Also blows my confidence about proceeding because even if I do get this off.... I see some even smaller Phillips head screw further along in the process

Jake, · Reply

If the screw is not damaged by previous attempts, the screw driver should fit perfectly. You can also tap the screw with a small mass to unlock.

revher,

There is a small black L-shaped bracket of some sort that tits between the battery connector and the motherboard socket, with a loop on one corner that sits betwen the riserand the battery connector. Remove this now, and do not forget to re install it on assembly.

stevesontheroad, · Reply

When reattaching this bracket make sure your Battery ribbon is already tucked underneath the battery with only the minimum clearance required. Then make sure the brackets overhang is over the battery ribbon. Dont try to slide it under the Ribbon.

crimney, · Reply

In Step 5 be EXTRA careful with the battery connector as the socket can come off extremely easy. This can mess up the replacement a little bit and cost you extra. Otherwise, this guide is excellent.

Good luck, fixers!

I fix(ed) it!

mateuszkus, · Reply

When removing this L shaped piece, it should be shown ON CAMERA where it came from and the exact position it was in while in the phone, I had to take 2 screws (not 1 like said in the video) out to get to this piece and once that second screw came up I didn't get a chance to see where this piece came from because it popped right out. I was extremely nervous but I believe I got it back in properly.

kellicaudill, · Reply

Just be careful when removing the battery with the plastic pull tab. On some units, they use so much glue that it's virtually impossible to take the battery.

In such an instance, you could use the iPod opening tool to assist (just be careful where you stick it!)

klubn, · Reply

use the iPod opening tool to pry gently under the battery from the outer edge of the phone and work towards the plastic tab. the tab is not actually attached to the battery itself, but a plastic sheet between the battery and inner frame. the adhesive on the battery tends to be under the edge of the battery nearest the center of the phone.

David Iwanicki, · Reply

Understand that the plastic pull tab is part of the phone. It sits under the battery like a tray and is not connected to the battery so it needs to stay in tact.

mattcfi, · Reply

once the iphone restarted, the battery was at 30%.

baldus, · Reply

This i think is the most diffucult part.

Because they use so much glue on it. I have to did this with so much force.

Glad that i didn't kill the circuit board when i took this out.

Shoung0690, · Reply

My battery was so firmly glued in, it took a long time to slowly pry it loose. Patience is the key to this process. I could see easily damaging the circuit board by using too much force. The plastic tab did not help at all.

The ribbon cable attaching the new battery to the battery connector clip is longer than the original. I clicked the clip into the socket first and then was very careful to fold the excess while putting the battery back in so the ribbon cable didn't kink. One kink in this could sever the battery leads.

drathbun, · Reply

My ribbon cable was also longer than the original. How did you get it to not kink while placing the batter back into the phone? That seems to be my only hang up at the moment

cvbaseballsean22,

Piece of cake! The hardest part was being sure the outer pentalobe screws were actually turning and I wasn't stripping them. Battery was glued firmly in, so I loosened it from the outside instead of using the plastic pull-tab. I pre-bent the battery connector neck before putting it back in and had no problems with it fitting in. Getting the battery connector aligned with the antenna piece underneath was a bit fiddly. Got the case back on, put in the new screws, and powered the phone on without problem. Had 40% charge, all seems well. Yippee!

chezbuttons, · Reply

Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue.

The reason why I say don't use an implement to try lift the battery is because far too many times I've seen punctured & bent batteries come in to this workshop that have to be thrown out for safety reasons. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire.

Just use a bit of heat ( not a lot! ) to soften up the glue and it'll come away with the plastic pull tab.

Paul L Daniels, · Reply

These instructions don't mention putting the 2.5mm screw back in. I found this very challenging because it is so short, so very difficult to line it up to get it back in the hole, and very easy to drop it inside the phone. Take care.

robshopping, · Reply

Non problem with reassembly - just took patience - my is that the phone now does not want to charge the battery. It shows taht the battery is dead and charger needs to be connected but does not charge?

What have I not done coreectly - or at least what can I check to determine the problem?

Thanks

Richard Bebee, · Reply

Apparently it's not necessary to remove the battery, but try at least (I'm curious).

The battery was stuck (too much glue) and the plastic tab didn't help, and I ripped it...

So I use the plastic opening tool on the other side to remove really gently the battery, it was really really stucked with the glue... Now I'll know when I'll need to change it.

I put a little piece of tape to repair the plastic tab for the next time.

For the other part of the guide, it was a piece of cake and I'm a bad bad handyman :)

Thanks for the guide!

tasseb, · Reply

You are right. This is the reason why their is simpler guide: iPhone 4 Battery disconnection to be used when there is no necessity for removing the battery. Disconnection is sufficient for many fixes except replacement of the battery!

revher,

you have to remove the battery for digitizer replacement, however i would suggest removing it at the very last stage, i.e. step 24. cause it is easier to remove without the logic board being there

Winnie Lee,

Adhesive was holding battery VERY firmly, so during this step I used a hair blow dryer on low setting to carefully heat up the device. Then used the plastic tool to gently but firmly pry up one place on each edge. At first it felt like barely anything was happening, but within a few tries the adhesive gave away easily and the battery came right out.

misc, · Reply

The new battery from iFixit already had the cable properly folded, but before inserting the battery I used the plastic tool to press the fold closer to the battery body.

misc, · Reply

Before inserting the battery I put the contact clip into position. It has a hooked shape on one side which fits between the socket and the folded battery cable. If you try to position it AFTER the battery is installed the whole process is much more difficult. I used a tweezers to hold it in place while inserting the battery.

misc, · Reply

When inserting the battery I started by guiding the folded cable into position against the side of the contact clip, then proceeded to lay the battery in position. This made it very easy to have all parts in their original positions -- no need to fiddle with the battery cable or contact clip afterwards.

misc, · Reply

When pressing the battery connector into the socket, the first time I pressed from bottom to top. That didn't work because there is a little tab at the top of the connector which must fit into a tiny notch or else the connector won't lay flat properly. Pressing the connector from top to bottom worked easily.

misc, · Reply

Needle-nosed tweezers were very helpful when lining up the screws. After everything was reassembled I tried powering up the device, but the battery had insufficient charge. I plugged it in and immediately the screen displayed a battery with a thin red line (illustrating no charge). After 25 minutes the device sprang to life and indicated a 10% charge. At 70 minutes the battery indicated 30% charge, and at that rate should be fully charged in under 4 hours. It's fixed!!

misc, · Reply

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