Skip to main content

Introduction

A new headphone jack will also give you new electronic portions of the silent switch and volume buttons.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured. Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Your iPhone 4 rear cover may have either two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws (second image). Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

    • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

    • Be sure the driver is well seated when removing Pentalobe screws, they are very easy to strip.

  2. Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone. The panel will move about 2 mm.
    • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

    • The panel will move about 2 mm.

  3. Pinch the rear panel with your fingers and lift it  away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .
    • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

    • If you are installing a new rear panel, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area near the lens.

  4. Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • Some devices may have two screws, one of which holds down the contact pad which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.

  5. Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry from the top and bottom of the connector bracket—there isn't as much of an overhang on the sides, and you may damage the connector.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

    • Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

  6. Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone. If the tab breaks before the battery is freed, carefully slide a spudger under the battery tab to release the adhesive. Prying in other places may cause damage. If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.
    • Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone.

    • If the tab breaks before the battery is freed, carefully slide a spudger under the battery tab to release the adhesive. Prying in other places may cause damage.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

    • Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip (shown in red) is properly positioned next to the battery connector.

    • Before reassembly, clean metal-to-metal contact points with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils from your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

    • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

  7. Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder. This may require a significant amount of force.
    • Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

    • Remove the SIM card and its holder.

  8. Remove the following two screws: One 1.2 mm Phillips
    • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips

    • Remove the thin steel dock connector cable cover from the iPhone.

    • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cable cover with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

  9. Use an iPod opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the connector. Use an iPod opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the connector.
    • Use an iPod opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the connector.

  10. PC Laptop Batteries

    An easy fix for a big power boost.

    Shop Now

    PC Laptop Batteries

    An easy fix for a big power boost.

    Shop Now
  11. Carefully peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board and the lower speaker enclosure. Do not use excessive force to peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board. Doing so may tear the cable.
    • Carefully peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board and the lower speaker enclosure.

    • Do not use excessive force to peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board. Doing so may tear the cable.

  12. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the lower antenna connector up off its socket on the logic board.
    • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the lower antenna connector up off its socket on the logic board.

  13. Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.
    • Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.

  14. Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the logic board:
    • Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the logic board:

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips

    • Two 1.6 mm Phillips

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips

    • One 4.8 mm Phillips

    • When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless.

    • Also make sure to put the long 4.8 mm Philips back in correctly when reassembling. This is the ground for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit if you are having bad Wi-Fi reception after reassembly.

  15. Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to pull the Wi-Fi retaining clips away from the inner frame. Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Make sure you don't lose the metal clips on the top of the cover where the 4.8mm screw attaches or the 4.8mm screw. That's the primary reason for abnormal Wi-Fi performance after the reassembly.
    • Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the logic board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the Wi-Fi retaining clips away from the inner frame.

    • Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Make sure you don't lose the metal clips on the top of the cover where the 4.8mm screw attaches or the 4.8mm screw. That's the primary reason for abnormal Wi-Fi performance after the reassembly.

    • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the connector cover with a de-greaser such as Windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues. Do not clean the connectors themselves with Windex.

  16. Use an iPod opening tool to carefully lift the rear camera connector up off its socket on the logic board. Remove the rear camera.
    • Use an iPod opening tool to carefully lift the rear camera connector up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Remove the rear camera.

  17. Remove the small circular white sticker (warranty sticker and water indicator) covering the screw near the battery pull tab. Remove the 2.4 mm Phillips screw that was hidden underneath the sticker.
    • Remove the small circular white sticker (warranty sticker and water indicator) covering the screw near the battery pull tab.

    • Remove the 2.4 mm Phillips screw that was hidden underneath the sticker.

  18. Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the following connectors up and out of their sockets on the logic board:
    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the following connectors up and out of their sockets on the logic board:

    • Digitizer cable (pry from bottom)

    • LCD cable (pry from bottom)

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable (pry from top)

    • Top Microphone/sleep button cable (pry from top)

    • Front camera cable (pry from top)

  19. Remove the 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.
    • Remove the 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    • When reassembling the device, this standoff sets the height of the Wi-Fi shield removed in step 13. If not torqued down, the shield will be above the plane of the frame and the back will not slide into place in step 2. The shield should be flush with the headphone jack.

    • When reassembling the motherboard, ensure that its edge sits under the circled standoff, otherwise the screws will not fit.

    • When reassembling ensure that the small rubber spacer attached to the top of the motherboard is in place.

    • Without this part, the motherboard could damage the ribbon cables around it.

  20. Carefully remove the logic board from the iPhone, minding any cables that may get caught.
    • Carefully remove the logic board from the iPhone, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • Be careful not to damage the small gold prong (marked in red, near the top) as it's very fragile.

    • On reassembly, be careful not to trap the lower antenna cable beneath the logic board.

  21. Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the thin steel front camera retainer off the front camera. Remove the front camera retainer.
    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the thin steel front camera retainer off the front camera.

    • Remove the front camera retainer.

    • During reassembly, position the clip's tabs on the outside of the receiving metal slots.

  22. Carefully lift the front facing camera out of the iPhone.
    • Carefully lift the front facing camera out of the iPhone.

    • It may be helpful to use tweezers to reinstall the front camera retainer.

  23. Remove the following two screws securing the vibrator to the inner frame: One 6 mm Phillips screw
    • Remove the following two screws securing the vibrator to the inner frame:

    • One 6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Remove the vibrator from the inner case.

  24. Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the small strip of black tape off the back of the volume button bracket. Peel the tape starting from the side nearest the top of the phone.
    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the small strip of black tape off the back of the volume button bracket.

    • Peel the tape starting from the side nearest the top of the phone.

    • Carefully remove the remaining portion of tape off the small section of ribbon cable near the inside of the bottom volume button.

  25. Remove the five Phillips screws securing the silent and volume button brackets to the outer case.
    • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the silent and volume button brackets to the outer case.

    • The screw directly below the silent switch is shorter than the others.

    • The left screw securing the volume control bracket is longer then the rest.

  26. Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the silent switch and its bracket from the side of the outer case. Don't try to completely remove the silent switch just yet.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the silent switch and its bracket from the side of the outer case.

    • Don't try to completely remove the silent switch just yet.

  27. Grab the headphone jack with a pair of tweezers and remove the assembly from the iPhone, being careful not to rip the thin ribbon cables.
    • Grab the headphone jack with a pair of tweezers and remove the assembly from the iPhone, being careful not to rip the thin ribbon cables.

  28. If you are not replacing the headphone jack assembly with a new unit, skip this step.
    • If you are not replacing the headphone jack assembly with a new unit, skip this step.

    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the electronic portion of the silent switch off its metal bracket.

    • Transfer the bracket to the new silent switch.

    • Repeat this procedure to peel the metal volume button bracket off the electronic portion of the volume buttons.

    • Transfer the volume button bracket to the new volume buttons.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

261 other people completed this guide.

Attached Documents

13 Comments

In my opinion, the hardest part of this repair is bending and routing the flex cable, specifically around the headphone jack and cable connector. There is no picture or clear directions on how to do this anywhere that I can find. If done incorrectly, the flex will tear rendering your whole job a failure.

Isaac - Reply

tutorial worked perfect great stuff!!! im so pleased this was the first time i had ever opened my phone ...heck it was the first time i ever took the sim card out. A+++

corey - Reply

I agree with Guide and step27. The photos are lacking and a diagram for how to route the cable would be helpful. But after one mishap where I stabbed myself in the eye, all is functional and well in the iphone. No lacking steps, which is good.

NKO - Reply

This is ^!%# on earth... "difficult" must be changed to "extremely difficult"... the reason is the mutebutton-bracket.... you want 4 very small hands at the same time (my opinion)...

PHS - Reply

The part most difficult is to place all pieces without break the flat and after that turn the tinies screws. Now I'm happy with my iPhone working like new! Thank you iFixit ;)

William Fabricio - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 5

Past 7 Days: 37

Past 30 Days: 131

All Time: 495,906