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iPhone 3GS Front Panel Assembly Replacement

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Written By: Ben Eisenman (and 8 other contributors)
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Featured Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

14

Time Required

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Sections

3

Flags

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Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Introduction

The front panel assembly, including the digitizer, ear speaker, and home button, can be replaced on the iPhone 3GS.

Video Overview

  1. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    Edit

  2. Remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the dock-connector end of the iPhone.

    • Remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the dock-connector end of the iPhone.

    • Make sure to keep all the screws organized as you are taking the phone apart. They are different sizes.

    Edit

  3. Remove the metal handle from the suction cup. It's easier and safer to grip the suction cup's base instead of the metal handle.

    • Remove the metal handle from the suction cup. It's easier and safer to grip the suction cup's base instead of the metal handle.

    • Be very careful when opening the iPhone so that the cables under the display are not severed.

    • There is a rubber gasket between the silver front bezel and black display assembly. A bit of force is required in this step to separate the iPhone's display assembly.

    • Use a small suction cup near the Home button to gently pull up the lower portion of the iPhone's display assembly.

    • If the display assembly is too damaged to allow the suction cup to adhere, tape with a strong adhesive such as duct tape may be used.

    Edit

  4. The display assembly is still connected to the iPhone by several cables, so don't try to remove it entirely just yet.

    • The display assembly is still connected to the iPhone by several cables, so don't try to remove it entirely just yet.

    • Rotate the display assembly up until it is at an angle of approximately 45 degrees.

    Edit

  5. Continue to hold the display assembly with one hand, and use your other hand and a spudger to disconnect the black ribbon cable labeled "1."

    • Continue to hold the display assembly with one hand, and use your other hand and a spudger to disconnect the black ribbon cable labeled "1."

    • Ribbon cable "1" is connected with a plug style connector. The block at the end of the cable is the plug which is simply pushed into a socket on the circuit board. No other locking mechanism is used.

    Edit

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  7. Rotate the display assembly up until it is roughly vertical. This will allow easier access for disconnecting the remaining cables.

    • Rotate the display assembly up until it is roughly vertical. This will allow easier access for disconnecting the remaining cables.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the black ribbon cable labeled "2."

    Edit

  8. Ribbon cable "3" is held in place by a FPC style connector. You must unlock this connector before sliding the ribbon cable out. The locking mechanism is on the opposite side of where the cable is inserted - it swivels upwards 90 degrees. Use a plastic spudger to lift the locking mechanism. The FPC locking latch is very delicate and is typically a different color than the body of the connector. (see the detail image of FPC connector open and closed)

    • Ribbon cable "3" is held in place by a FPC style connector. You must unlock this connector before sliding the ribbon cable out. The locking mechanism is on the opposite side of where the cable is inserted - it swivels upwards 90 degrees. Use a plastic spudger to lift the locking mechanism.

    • The FPC locking latch is very delicate and is typically a different color than the body of the connector. (see the detail image of FPC connector open and closed)

    • Slide the ribbon cable out of the connector, and remove the display assembly from the iPhone.

    • It's impossible to properly reinsert a ribbon into an FPC connector unless the lock is disengaged. Make sure the locking latch is open when attaching/detaching the cable.

    Edit

  9. Remove the single Phillips #00 screw from the corner of the display assembly.

    • Remove the single Phillips #00 screw from the corner of the display assembly.

    Edit

  10. Remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the right side of the display assembly.

    • Remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the right side of the display assembly.

    Edit

  11. Turn the display around, and if there is a thin strip of black tape on the edge of the display assembly, carefully peel it up.

    • Turn the display around, and if there is a thin strip of black tape on the edge of the display assembly, carefully peel it up.

    • Keeping the tape from sticking to itself can be tricky. We recommend placing the tape on a wax-coated piece of paper (any sticker backing will do).

    Edit

  12. Remove the three Phillips #00 screws from the left side of the display assembly.

    • Remove the three Phillips #00 screws from the left side of the display assembly.

    Edit

  13. Turn the display assembly over and again carefully insert a metal spudger between the two metal rails along the edge of the display assembly. Gently rotate the spudger to lift the LCD up from the glass.

    • Turn the display assembly over and again carefully insert a metal spudger between the two metal rails along the edge of the display assembly. Gently rotate the spudger to lift the LCD up from the glass.

    Edit

  14. Separate the LCD and glass by sliding the LCD panel away from the ribbon cables on the glass.

    • Separate the LCD and glass by sliding the LCD panel away from the ribbon cables on the glass.

    Edit

  15. Front Panel Assembly remains.

    • Front Panel Assembly remains.

    Edit
Finish Line

329 other people completed this guide.

8 Comments

Add a comment

do not forget to remove the smart cart!!

if less than an hour to remove and replace the new front panel.

sylval1 - Reply

The hardest parts are separating the glass from the plastics and then re-attaching it. It would do you well to buy the 'custom' double sided sticky tape they sell here at ifixit. I used regular double sided tape and it took a long time to cut and fit properly so all sensors would remain working and the screen would be held in place.

damuta - Reply

If your screen is severely damaged, there is no way to separate the digitizer from the outside glass without destroying the digitizer, is there? I couldn't do it. Also, nail polish remover is good for getting rid of the adhesive!

Michael - Reply

Be careful putting the new screen back in. I got almost all the way to done and everything was working perfectly - then I had trouble getting the bottom portion of the assembly (near the home button) back in.

I forced it a bit thinking I had squeeze it in and cracked the new screen. Doh.

Mxfive4 - Reply

Ok, I misunderstood the video. When she said that the display kit came with everything that we would need to do the replacement she pointed at the kit in front of the display which was the screwdriver and the plastic spludgers. So, I am assuming that comes with the Display Kit which is the cheapest kit, it must therefore be included in the Front Panel Assembly kit. I assumed that as the kits got more expensive they included the lower kit plus whatever caused the price to go up. Well, I received my Front Panel Assembly kit and all I got was the Front Panel Assembly. No screwdrivers, no spludger no suction cup.

Luckily, I had some small electronic screwdrivers on hand and I used some packing tape in place of the suction cup. So instead of being a 15 minute job it took more like 30.

Guide is great.

I just think that it needs to be more clear what you are getting in each kit when you order it. I wondered why on the side it was telling you to add those tools to my order for more money.

shabadu - Reply

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