Installing iPad Wi-Fi Headphone Jack/Microphone Assembly

Step 1 Display Assembly




• If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
• Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
• This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
• Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
• Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.
Step 2



• In this guide you will be prying the iPad's display assembly away from the aluminum body. Read ahead and follow the directions closely to avoid damaging the display assembly or the fragile clips holding it in place.
• There are 14 metal clips holding the display assembly in place, shown at left. As you pry in the following steps, do your best to pry around these clips and not slice through them with your opening tool.
• If you do happen to break some clips, you can buy replacements here.
Step 3
• Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
• Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
• Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.
Step 4
• With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.
• The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.
• Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.
• Pry carefully and gently—if you feel resistance, stop and pry at another spot.
Step 5
• Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.
• Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.
Step 6
• In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:
• Digitizer
• Ambient Light Sensor
• Display Data Cable
Step 7
• Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.
• Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
• Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.
Step 8
• Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.
Step 9
• Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.
• Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
• Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.
Step 10
• Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.
Step 11 Headphone Jack/Microphone Assembly
• Use the edge of an iPod opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the ZIF cable retaining flap on the headphone jack socket.
• Be sure you pry up on the cable retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Step 12
• Carefully pull the headphone jack cable out of its socket on the logic board.
Step 13
• Remove the two 2.8 mm T5 Torx screws securing the headphone jack to the rear case.
Step 14
• Remove the headphone jack from the rear case.
• Make sure you transfer the rubber sound channel from your old microphone to the new microphone.
• Before reinstalling the screws, be sure the headphone jack is properly seated in the headphone jack hole cut into the top edge of the rear case.

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Andrew Bookholt

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