Introduction

Use this guide to replace your iPad's Headphone Jack/Microphone Assembly.

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

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Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly. Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
  • Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.

  • Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.

  • Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.

Tip* "ONLY WITH METAL SPUDGER* heat it with a lighter till its warm to touch, then slide it like a butter knife. it reduces chances of chipping glass.

luckie - Reply

I've found that by using a thicker iPad tool dents the back less(not at all if your careful) and start prying just under the volume button and working my way down works better as the metal clips are on all sider except the right side.

richard - Reply

It would be really helpful to point out where all the clips and tabs are, and to show a picture of them (unbroken), so you know what you're trying to release.

Styg - Reply

With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad. The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides.  The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.
  • With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.

  • The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.

  • Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.

Its seems easier to undo the clips on the left and bottom by levering them with an iPad tool and pusing the clips in from the edge with another tool when i can visually see them. One the right side, bottom and most of the left side is done there isnt much need to do the top as it will slide off if moved about a centimeter

richard - Reply

Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.
  • Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.

  • Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.

By it's BOTTOM edge.

jonathan - Reply

In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:
  • In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:

    • Digitizer

    • Ambient Light Sensor

    • Display Data Cable

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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board. Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.

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Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.

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Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab. Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
  • Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.

  • Pull the cable connector away from its socket.

  • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

IMHO, unhooking data display cable from the other end is preferable to the above location, since the cable itself is sealed or taped onto the assembly.

Roger Buttermore - Reply

Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.
  • Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.

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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the ZIF cable retaining flap on the headphone jack socket.
  • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the ZIF cable retaining flap on the headphone jack socket.

  • Be sure you pry up on the cable retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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Carefully pull the headphone jack cable out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Carefully pull the headphone jack cable out of its socket on the logic board.

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Remove the two 2.8 mm T5 Torx screws securing the headphone jack to the rear case.
  • Remove the two 2.8 mm T5 Torx screws securing the headphone jack to the rear case.

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Remove the headphone jack from the rear case.
  • Remove the headphone jack from the rear case.

  • Make sure you transfer the rubber sound channel from your old microphone to the new microphone.

  • Before reinstalling the screws, be sure the headphone jack is properly seated in the headphone jack hole cut into the top edge of the rear case.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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2 Comments

I did everything it said and it's still only playing in my left ear and not the right! I can hear very very query sound in the left ear only if I take out the right earbud but nothing has changed!

seeleywes - Reply

buy blue tooth earbuds its easy

jcw_1962 - Reply

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