iPad Mini Wi-Fi Logic Board Replacement

Replace the Logic Board in your iPad Mini CDMA.

Use this guide to replace the logic board.

Edit Step 1 iOpener Heating  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 iOpener Heating  ¶ 

  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • Always wait at least three minutes before reheating the iOpener.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Edit Step 4 Front Panel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Throughout the following procedure, you'll be placing the iOpener on the iPad to soften adhesive at several locations. Ensure the iOpener is hot before placing it on the iPad, and reheat it in the microwave for 30-60 seconds as needed.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener; never microwave it for longer than one minute, and always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.

  • Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before continuing on to open the front panel.

  • As you may find yourself working with broken glass during this procedure, we recommend wearing safety glasses for protection from flying shards.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the iOpener from the iPad.

  • Place a suction cup on the bottom right of the front panel glass, just above the lower bezel and near the right edge of the device.

  • With one hand on the device, pull up on the suction cup enough to open a small gap between the front panel glass and rear panel.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • While still pulling up with the suction cup, insert a wide plastic opening tool into the gap created between the front panel and rear case.

  • Leave the opening tool in the gap and remove the suction cup from the iPad.

  • Unlike in the iPad 2,3, and 4, there is no plastic display bezel on the iPad Mini. Insert the plastic opening tool into the crack between the front panel and the rear case.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Place the iOpener back along the right edge of the iPad and wait about a minute for it to warm the adhesive back up.

  • Insert a guitar pick 1/4" into the crack between the front panel and the rear case, to the left of the plastic opening tool.

    • The guitar pick will serve as a placeholder, to keep the gap spread open so the adhesive doesn't reseal the iPad shut as you move the plastic opening tool.

    • Be careful not to insert the guitar pick too deep, as it could scratch and damage the front of the LCD.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Slide the plastic opening tool toward the top of the iPad, breaking the adhesive seal between the front panel and rear case.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Insert another guitar pick above the plastic opening tool, to keep the gap from resealing.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Place the iOpener across the bottom on the iPad, after reheating it for 30-60 seconds if it has cooled down.

  • Let the iOpener sit for at least 90 seconds, to warm and soften the adhesive beneath this section of the front panel.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Insert the plastic opening tool into the gap between the front panel and rear case, next to the lower placeholder guitar pick.

  • Slide the opening tool around the corner, separating the front panel from the rear case.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Continue sliding the plastic opening tool along the bottom edge of the iPad.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Insert a guitar pick into the bottom of the iPad as shown, between the front panel glass and rear case.

  • Be careful not to insert the guitar pick any closer than 3/4" from the right edge of the iPad, as you may damage the digitizer cable.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Continue sliding the plastic opening tool along the next corner of the device, freeing the rest of the bottom edge of the front panel.

  • Leave the plastic opening tool in this position.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Insert another guitar pick under the bottom left corner of the front panel, breaking the adhesive beneath it.

    • If the guitar pick is hard to press in, reheat the iOpener for 30-60 seconds and reapply it to the iPad for another 90 seconds to resoften the adhesive.

  • Slide the guitar pick toward the home button, breaking the adhesive beneath.

    • For this pick, be sure to only slide toward the center, to prevent damage to the Wi-Fi antenna, located beneath the lower bezel.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Place the iOpener back on the iPad, this time along the left edge of the front panel.

    • Remember to reheat the iOpener for an additional 30-60 seconds if it has cooled down after its last application.

  • Let the iOpener sit for 90 seconds to soften the adhesive along the left side of the iPad.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Slide the plastic opening tool a few inches along the left side of the iPad, continuing to break the adhesive securing the front panel to the rear case.

  • Insert a placeholder guitar pick to keep the adhesive from re-sealing and closing the gap made by the plastic opening tool.

    • Remember to only push the guitar pick in about 1/4", to avoid scratching the front of the LCD.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Continue sliding the plastic opening tool the rest of the way along the left side of the iPad.

  • Insert another guitar pick in the top of the left side as shown, to keep the gap open.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Lay the iOpener on the top edge of the iPad, and let it sit for 90 seconds to melt the adhesive securing the top of the front panel to the rear case.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Insert the wide plastic opening tool into the gap held open by the guitar pick on the iPad's left side.

  • Slide the plastic opening tool around the top left corner of the iPad, bringing the gap to the top edge of the front panel.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Slide the plastic opening tool along the top edge, separating the edge of the front panel from the rear case.

  • Leave the plastic opening tool in the gap beneath the front panel, near the iPad's top right corner.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Push a guitar pick in between the front panel and rear case near the top left corner of the iPad.

  • Slide the guitar pick toward the front-facing camera to break the layer of adhesive beneath the top display bezel.

    • Stop once you reach the camera, as you might damage the camera or its cable if you slide the guitar pick over the camera.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Slide the plastic opening tool around the iPad's top right corner.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Push a guitar pick in between the front panel and rear case just to the right of the front-facing camera.

  • Slide the guitar pick toward the outside edge of the iPad to break the layer of adhesive beneath the top display bezel.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • At this point you should have opened the gap between the front panel and rear case around all four edges and underneath the top and bottom bezels, leaving guitar picks to hold the gap open as shown.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Lift the front panel glass from the top, folding it up and over the iPad.

    • Do not remove the front panel from the rest of the iPad; the digitizer cable still connects the two.

Edit Step 28 LCD Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28 LCD Assembly  ¶ 

  • Small pieces of foam tape cover the top and bottom right-hand screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

  • Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw.

  • Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • The top left LCD screw may be covered by adhesive tape from the front panel.

  • If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 3.9 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • A thin strip of foam tape on the LCD frame is covering a piece of tape connecting the LCD to the panel beneath it. To proceed, you'll have to break and peel up some of the foam tape to expose the tape hidden beneath.

  • Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD.

    • Be careful not to touch the LCD with the tweezers, as you may damage the display.

  • Use the tweezers to peel the foam tape up to expose the top of the LCD.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Insert the tip of a spudger between the LCD frame and the tape on the top of the LCD.

  • Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • The LCD is glued to the metal LCD shield plate behind it along the top, left, and right edges. In order to safely loosen this adhesive, you'll be using a guitar pick to shift the LCD a couple of millimeters left and right several times.

  • Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.

  • Bend the pick slightly away from the iPad, just enough to spread the gap between the LCD and rear case.

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

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Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

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Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Now switch to the right side of the LCD, and pry with the guitar pick in several places along the side to shift the LCD back to the left.

  • Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • In the next few steps, you'll be sliding a spudger between the LCD and the metal backing plate to fully separate the LCD from the adhesive beneath.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate.

    • Be sure to get the spudger between the LCD frame and backing plate, and not beneath the plate. Prying up on the plate will damage it, because it is screwed down to the rear case beneath the LCD.

Edit Step 38  ¶ 

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Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push.

    • The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD.

  • If inserting the spudger causes the corner of the LCD to bend up, repeat the steps with the guitar pick to further loosen the adhesive.

Edit Step 39  ¶ 

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Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Repeat the previous procedure along the top of the LCD.

  • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.

Edit Step 40  ¶ 

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Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • Continue with the left side of the LCD: insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD and shield plate and insert the spudger as far as it will go.

  • At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD.

Edit Step 41  ¶ 

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Edit Step 41  ¶ 

  • Lift the LCD up a couple inches from the rear case to ensure it's free from the adhesive.

Edit Step 42  ¶ 

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Edit Step 42  ¶ 

  • Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.

  • While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.

  • Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers while rotating the spudger outward to separate the tape from the speaker.

Edit Step 43  ¶ 

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Edit Step 43  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the LCD tape.

  • While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.

Edit Step 44  ¶ 

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Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Flip the LCD over and rest it on top of the front panel glass.

  • Do not attempt to remove the LCD from the iPad, as it is still connected by its data cable.

Edit Step 45 LCD Shield Plate  ¶ 

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Edit Step 45 LCD Shield Plate  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:

    • Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00

    • Thirteen 1.7 mm Phillips #00

    • One additional 1.7 mm Phillips #00 on some devices.

Edit Step 46  ¶ 

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Edit Step 46  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the LCD shield plate from the bottom end of the iPad.

  • Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.

Edit Step 47  ¶ 

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Edit Step 47  ¶ 

  • Remove the LCD shield plate from the iPad.

Edit Step 48 Battery Connector  ¶ 

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Edit Step 48 Battery Connector  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.

  • Be sure to not substitute these three screws with any other screws, specifically the screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad. Any slightly longer screws may strip the screw holes and result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

Edit Step 49  ¶ 

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Edit Step 49  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the connector shield from the iPad.

Edit Step 50  ¶ 

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Edit Step 50  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Edit Step 51 LCD  ¶ 

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Edit Step 51 LCD  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

Edit Step 52  ¶ 

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Edit Step 52  ¶ 

  • The LCD is still connected to the rest of the iPad by two wide strips of adhesive tape that run up from the inside of the rear case to the front bottom LCD frame.

  • While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad's right side.

  • Slide the spudger outward, separating the tape, while gently lifting up on the LCD to pull it away from the tape.

  • It may help to twist the spudger, to spread the gap the rest of the way and separate the LCD from the tape.

Edit Step 53  ¶ 

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Edit Step 53  ¶ 

  • While still holding the LCD up with one hand, move on to the iPad's left side and repeat the previous step's procedure to separate the second piece of tape.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.

Edit Step 54  ¶ 

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Edit Step 54  ¶ 

  • Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.

Edit Step 55 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 55 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to pry evenly on the connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won't work.

Edit Step 56  ¶ 

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Edit Step 56  ¶ 

  • Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case.

Edit Step 57  ¶ 

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Edit Step 57  ¶ 

  • Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.

Edit Step 58 Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 58 Battery  ¶ 

  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.

    • Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.

  • Place the heated iOpener on the back of the iPad, along the center. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.

  • Move the iOpener to the right of the back of the iPad (the side opposite the rear-facing camera), and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.

    • If the iOpener cools significantly between sittings, reheat it for another minute.

Edit Step 59  ¶ 

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Edit Step 59  ¶ 

  • Throughout the following procedure, you'll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad, to separate the adhesive securing the battery in place. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

  • Flip the iPad back over and insert a plastic card between the top left battery and the rear case.

  • If you encounter significant resistance, re-heat the iOpener and repeat the previous step to give the adhesive more time to soften.

Edit Step 60  ¶ 

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Edit Step 60  ¶ 

  • Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can.

Edit Step 61  ¶ 

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Edit Step 61  ¶ 

  • Remove the plastic card and reinsert it underneath the top right corner of the battery.

Edit Step 62  ¶ 

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Edit Step 62  ¶ 

  • Again, press the card in further, to break more of the adhesive behind the battery.

  • Leave this card in place to prevent the adhesive from resetting.

Edit Step 63  ¶ 

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Edit Step 63  ¶ 

  • Insert a second plastic card beneath the bottom left corner of the battery.

Edit Step 64  ¶ 

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Edit Step 64  ¶ 

  • Slowly push the card in further, breaking more of the adhesive between the battery and the rear case.

Edit Step 65  ¶ 

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Edit Step 65  ¶ 

  • Remove the card and reinsert it, beneath the bottom right corner of the battery.

Edit Step 66  ¶ 

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Edit Step 66  ¶ 

  • Push the card further underneath the battery.

Edit Step 67  ¶ 

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Edit Step 67  ¶ 

  • Grasp both cards and slowly pull the right side of the battery up about two inches from the rear case.

  • Peel slowly and try to keep the battery as straight as possible.

Edit Step 68  ¶ 

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Edit Step 68  ¶ 

  • While lifting the right side of the battery up with one hand, use a plastic card to cut any adhesive still holding the battery down to the rear case.

Edit Step 69  ¶ 

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Edit Step 69  ¶ 

  • Lift and remove the battery from the iPad.

Edit Step 70 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 70 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the front-facing camera cable connector.

Edit Step 71  ¶ 

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Edit Step 71  ¶ 

  • The front-facing camera cable connector is secured with pieces of tape that wrap up around the sides of the cable and are fastened to two small metal plates.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the lower metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.

  • Being careful not to break the plate or the tape attached to it, pry it up and fold it away from the front-facing camera cable connector.

Edit Step 72  ¶ 

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Edit Step 72  ¶ 

  • Gently pry the second (upper) metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.

  • Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the front-facing camera cable connector.

Edit Step 73  ¶ 

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Edit Step 73  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the front-facing camera cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 74  ¶ 

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Edit Step 74  ¶ 

  • Gently fold the front-facing camera cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

Edit Step 75  ¶ 

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Edit Step 75  ¶ 

  • Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the headphone jack cable connector.

Edit Step 76  ¶ 

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Edit Step 76  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the lower metal plate up from the headphone jack cable connector.

  • Being careful not to break the plate or the tape attached to it, pry it up and fold it away from the headphone jack cable connector.

Edit Step 77  ¶ 

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Edit Step 77  ¶ 

  • Pry the second (upper) metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.

  • Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the headphone jack cable connector.

Edit Step 78  ¶ 

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Edit Step 78  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the headphone jack cable's connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Gently bend the headphone jack cable back, away from the logic board.

Edit Step 79  ¶ 

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Edit Step 79  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear-facing camera cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 80  ¶ 

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Edit Step 80  ¶ 

  • Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Edit Step 81  ¶ 

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Edit Step 81  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the tab on the button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Edit Step 82  ¶ 

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Edit Step 82  ¶ 

  • Use tweezers to pull the button ribbon cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 83  ¶ 

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Edit Step 83  ¶ 

  • Gently peel back the wide piece of tape covering the top of the right speaker.

Edit Step 84  ¶ 

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Edit Step 84  ¶ 

  • Continue peeling the tape, and remove it from the iPad.

Edit Step 85  ¶ 

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Edit Step 85  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two bottom antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the logic board.

Edit Step 86  ¶ 

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Edit Step 86  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to peel back the small piece of tape covering both antenna cables on the bottom right side of the iPad.

  • Leave the lower part of the tape stuck to the back of the rear case to aid in reassembly.

Edit Step 87  ¶ 

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Edit Step 87  ¶ 

  • With the tip of a spudger, peel up the larger piece of tape covering both antenna cables near the bottom of the rear case.

  • Do not try to remove this piece of tape; it is wrapped around the top antenna cable.

Edit Step 88  ¶ 

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Edit Step 88  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small metal retaining clip off the left antenna cable, then de-route the cable from the clip.

Edit Step 89  ¶ 

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Edit Step 89  ¶ 

  • De-route the antenna cable from the corner of the iPad.

Edit Step 90  ¶ 

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Edit Step 90  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small piece of tape securing the antenna cable in the bottom right corner of the iPad.

Edit Step 91  ¶ 

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Edit Step 91  ¶ 

  • Peel the cable back from the corner of the iPad.

Edit Step 92  ¶ 

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Edit Step 92  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable tape up from the rear case of the iPad.

  • Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape, to keep it from resealing.

Edit Step 93  ¶ 

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Edit Step 93  ¶ 

  • Pull the antenna cable from the slot behind the Lightning connector.

Edit Step 94 Plastic Covers  ¶ 

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Edit Step 94 Plastic Covers  ¶ 

  • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover on top of the horizontal screw on the right side of the Lightning connector housing.

Edit Step 95  ¶ 

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Edit Step 95  ¶ 

  • Remove the plastic covering from the left side of the Lightning connector housing.

Edit Step 96 Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Antenna  ¶ 

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Edit Step 96 Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Antenna  ¶ 

  • Pull the wide tape toward the top of the iPad, applying constant force to release it from the antenna cable between it and the speaker.

  • Slide the tip of a spudger through the gap between the wide tape and the antenna cable, breaking the adhesive connecting the two.

  • Continue pulling the wide tape until it is no longer covering the antenna cable.

Edit Step 97  ¶ 

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Edit Step 97  ¶ 

  • Peel back and remove the wide tape from the iPad.

Edit Step 98  ¶ 

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Edit Step 98  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable tape up from the rear case of the iPad.

  • Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape, to keep it from resealing.

Edit Step 99  ¶ 

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Edit Step 99  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws securing the bottom left antenna to the rear case:

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #00 screw.

    • One 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw.

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw.

Edit Step 100  ¶ 

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Edit Step 100  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive securing the lower left antenna to the left speaker.

Edit Step 101  ¶ 

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Edit Step 101  ¶ 

  • Remove the antenna from the iPad.

Edit Step 102 GPS Antenna  ¶ 

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Edit Step 102 GPS Antenna  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws:

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips #00

    • Two 1.1 mm Phillips #00

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #00

Edit Step 103  ¶ 

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Edit Step 103  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive holding the antenna to the right speaker.

Edit Step 104 Speakers  ¶ 

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Edit Step 104 Speakers  ¶ 

  • Remove two 1.4 mm #00 Phillips screws securing the left and right speakers to the rear case.

Edit Step 105  ¶ 

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Edit Step 105  ¶ 

  • Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the left speaker and the bottom left side of the rear case.

  • Pry around the bottom of the speaker, sliding it out from its recess in the rear case.

Edit Step 106  ¶ 

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Edit Step 106  ¶ 

  • Once enough of the speaker is exposed, grasp it and pull it away from its recess in the rear case.

  • Remove the left speaker from the iPad.

Edit Step 107  ¶ 

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Edit Step 107  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to slide the right speaker slightly toward the outside of the iPad.

Edit Step 108  ¶ 

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Edit Step 108  ¶ 

  • Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the bottom right corner of the case.

  • Pry the speaker out from its recess in the rear case.

Edit Step 109  ¶ 

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Edit Step 109  ¶ 

  • Once enough of the speaker is exposed, grasp it and pull it away from its slot in the rear case.

  • Remove the right speaker from the iPad.

Edit Step 110  ¶ 

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Edit Step 110  ¶ 

  • Remove two 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the base of the Lightning connector.

Edit Step 111 Logic Board  ¶ 

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Edit Step 111 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.

    • Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.

  • Place the heated iOpener on the left side of the back of the iPad. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the logic board adhesive.

Edit Step 112  ¶ 

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Edit Step 112  ¶ 

  • Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning port cable, freeing it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

Edit Step 113  ¶ 

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Edit Step 113  ¶ 

  • Continue to carefully slide the spudger under the Lightning port cable nearest the logic board.

  • Be sure to work slowly; jerking the spudger may tear the Lightning cable from the logic board.

Edit Step 114  ¶ 

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Edit Step 114  ¶ 

  • In the following steps you will be prying under the logic board. Be careful to pry evenly to avoid bending or stressing the logic board. If it is hard to insert the spudger, reheat and reapply the iOpener.

  • Gently insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the logic board nearest the front-facing camera. Slowly pry to free the corner from adhesive.

Edit Step 115  ¶ 

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Edit Step 115  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the logic board. Slowly pry to free the section from adhesive.

Edit Step 116  ¶ 

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Edit Step 116  ¶ 

  • Insert the spudger underneath the logic board nearest the Lightning port cable and pry to free the corner.

Edit Step 117  ¶ 

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Edit Step 117  ¶ 

  • Insert the spudger further under the logic board and slide along its length to detach the last of the adhesive.

Edit Step 118  ¶ 

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Edit Step 118  ¶ 

  • Lift the end of the logic board nearest the front-facing camera to ensure it is free of adhesive.

  • Again, be careful not to bend or stress the logic board—make certain that you have cleared all of the adhesive with the spudger.

Edit Step 119  ¶ 

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Edit Step 119  ¶ 

  • Lift the logic board and Lightning cable assembly up and pull toward the top of the iPad to remove the Lightning connector from its housing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPad Mini Wi-Fi device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Popular Products

1 TB SSD Hybrid 2.5" Hard Drive

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Comments Comments are onturn off

I'm sorry, but I started laughing uncontrollably at this point! It's like something out of a Conan or Fallon sketch for the all but non sequitur of microwave use, but it's clearly what needs to be done for the glue. I came from a 2007 MBP, and personally replaced the battery multiple times (one step). I was curious about how it was done with my new 2014 model. 32 steps might as well be a punch line...

JeffH, · Reply

Hey cut them some slack. There are some really stupid people out there and we don't want some one to end up with their dick caught in the ceiling fan.

logitechtaco,

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta, · Reply

A hairdryer works well - hot to the touch is enough to soften the glue to allow it to come off.

Gavin,

If I can't find the new screen how would I fix it. Where can I find the brand new screen.

Crissel Largo, · Reply

This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?

robloomis, · Reply

In my case the 4 screws are not the same. One is 4mm, and 3 of 3.5mm, or better 2 x 3.5mm and one 3.45mm. I put the longest one at the left edge at left of the LCD flat cable.

mitja

Mitja Jankovic, · Reply

Hi Mitja. I just checked the measurements with an electronic digital caliper. I got 3.9 mm for all four screws. Are you sure it was the same model? Thanks.

Walter Galan,

The top left screw is longer than the other 3 - iPad mini Retina Wi-Fi.

sandro, · Reply

At the iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are only 7 screws.

sandro, · Reply

Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...

jessabethany, · Reply

Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!

Walter Galan,

Be careful: At iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are thw short and one longer screw! Don't mix them!

sandro, · Reply

Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder

Mattis, · Reply

I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?

Grillwrecka,

Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.

akivell,

There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/1268...

jessabethany,

After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.

While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.

Michael Vovaris, · Reply

Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.

Michael Vovaris, · Reply

Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD

Nick Hughes, · Reply

Be careful not to dislodge any of the surface mount components next to the connectors. This is sometimes a reason for the digitiser not working.

Simon, · Reply

== After step 55 ==

Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.

Good Luck!!!!

Mike, · Reply

If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.

Mike,

Where can I get a battery?

Mike Munn, · Reply

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