We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

hello -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - Reply

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Reply

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - Reply

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - Reply

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

In case of broken glass, here are some hints:

- I prefer 3M "3350" tape; a metalized polypropylene tape with an acrylic adhesive. It's a very thin, silvery HVAC tape, not your standard duct tape.

- Test your tape to make sure it sticks really well to the glass.

- Use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove fingerprints and other dirt to help the tape stick to the screen.

- Use the widest tape you can find, and apply it evenly, without trapping bubbles, without crinkles: This greatly improves your chance of success with the suction cup later.

- Cut tape pieces long enough and go over the (rounded) edge; afterwards carefully run a scalpel alongside the edge (between bezel and glass) to trim off any excess.

- Don't overlap edges of the tape: butt-join them instead.

- If needed: repeat in other direction.

- If needed: Cut square piece of tape (size of suction cup) and place it where you want to lift the glass, so that the suction cup doesn't cover any butt-joins.

Good luck, you brave person!

volty - Reply

Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
  • Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

  • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

I worked at it for over 2 hours before deciding to microwave the opener for 45 seconds at a time. That seemed to do the trick.

jaromhyde - Reply

Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
  • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

  • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you may risk cracking the glass.

This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?

robloomis - Reply

just pick out the glass shards if it is cracked that bad you are better off scrapping the digitizer

Ethan Chow -

for shattered screens I cover the screen with tape. I find packing tape works best for me.

George - Reply

While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD. Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

  • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

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Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.
  • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
  • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

  • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
  • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

  • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
  • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.
  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

  • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
  • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive. Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
  • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

  • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

  • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
  • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
  • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

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Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass. Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.
  • Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.

  • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
  • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

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Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.
  • Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

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Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
  • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

  • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner. Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad. There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:
  • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

  • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

  • There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:

    • Antennas

    • Home button cavity

    • Digitizer cable

  • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

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Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing. With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button. Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
  • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

  • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

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Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button. Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable. Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
  • Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.

  • Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.

  • Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.

  • Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

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Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.
  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

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Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat. At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
  • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

  • At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.

  • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

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Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.
  • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace. Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
  • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

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The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it. Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel. Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.
  • The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.

  • Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.

  • Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

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Small pieces of foam tape cover the top and bottom right-hand screws securing the LCD to the rear case. Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw. Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.
  • Small pieces of foam tape cover the top and bottom right-hand screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

  • Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw.

  • Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.

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The top left LCD screw may be covered by adhesive tape from the front panel. If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.
  • The top left LCD screw may be covered by adhesive tape from the front panel.

  • If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.

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Remove the four 3.9 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.
  • Remove the four 3.9 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

In my case the 4 screws are not the same. One is 4mm, and 3 of 3.5mm, or better 2 x 3.5mm and one 3.45mm. I put the longest one at the left edge at left of the LCD flat cable.

mitja

Mitja Jankovic - Reply

Hi Mitja. I just checked the measurements with an electronic digital caliper. I got 3.9 mm for all four screws. Are you sure it was the same model? Thanks.

Walter Galan -

The top left screw is longer than the other 3 - iPad mini Retina Wi-Fi.

sandro - Reply

On mine the top right screw is longer

oliver - Reply

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker. Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.

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A thin strip of foam tape on the LCD frame is covering a piece of tape connecting the LCD to the panel beneath it. To proceed, you'll have to break and peel up some of the foam tape to expose the tape hidden beneath. Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD. Be careful not to touch the LCD with the tweezers, as you may damage the display.
  • A thin strip of foam tape on the LCD frame is covering a piece of tape connecting the LCD to the panel beneath it. To proceed, you'll have to break and peel up some of the foam tape to expose the tape hidden beneath.

  • Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD.

    • Be careful not to touch the LCD with the tweezers, as you may damage the display.

  • Use the tweezers to peel the foam tape up to expose the top of the LCD.

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Insert the tip of a spudger between the LCD  frame and the tape on the top of the LCD. Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame. Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger between the LCD frame and the tape on the top of the LCD.

  • Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.

I finished a successful replacement of my screen following these instructions. Thanks.

Step 36 (remove tape from LCD perimeter), however, seems unnecessary. I ended up spending a lot of time separating the tape from the LCD frame only to discover it was not necessary for steps 37-44 and actually made things really difficult for step 45-46 (removing the tape near the speakers). Finally, steps 45-46 can be skipped since it is much easier to remove this tape once you flip the LCD over (Step 55).

Kenneth Snyder - Reply

The LCD is glued to the metal LCD shield plate behind it along the top, left, and right edges. In order to safely loosen this adhesive, you'll be using a guitar pick to shift the LCD a couple of millimeters left and right several times. Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.
  • The LCD is glued to the metal LCD shield plate behind it along the top, left, and right edges. In order to safely loosen this adhesive, you'll be using a guitar pick to shift the LCD a couple of millimeters left and right several times.

  • Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.

  • Bend the pick slightly away from the iPad, just enough to spread the gap between the LCD and rear case.

I found a very simple method for removing the LCD from the metal shield. Slightly lift one of the top corners and insert a 1' piece of fishing line. Insert the line under the other top corner placing the length between the LCD and shield. Once in place, gently pull each end toward the bottom of the LCD breaking the adhesive as you go. This will make things much easier than using the picks and possibly breaking the LCD.

bababooey - Reply

Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case. Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case. Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case.
  • Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case.

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Now switch to the right side of the LCD, and pry with the guitar pick in several places along the side to shift the LCD back to the left. Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right. Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right.
  • Now switch to the right side of the LCD, and pry with the guitar pick in several places along the side to shift the LCD back to the left.

  • Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right.

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In the next few steps, you'll be sliding a spudger between the LCD and the metal backing plate to fully separate the LCD from the adhesive beneath. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate. Be sure to get the spudger between the LCD frame and backing plate, and not beneath the plate. Prying up on the plate will damage it, because it is screwed down to the rear case beneath the LCD.
  • In the next few steps, you'll be sliding a spudger between the LCD and the metal backing plate to fully separate the LCD from the adhesive beneath.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate.

    • Be sure to get the spudger between the LCD frame and backing plate, and not beneath the plate. Prying up on the plate will damage it, because it is screwed down to the rear case beneath the LCD.

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Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push. The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD. If inserting the spudger causes the corner of the LCD to bend up, repeat the steps with the guitar pick to further loosen the adhesive.
  • Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push.

    • The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD.

  • If inserting the spudger causes the corner of the LCD to bend up, repeat the steps with the guitar pick to further loosen the adhesive.

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Repeat the previous procedure along the top of the LCD. Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive. Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.
  • Repeat the previous procedure along the top of the LCD.

  • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.

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Continue with the left side of the LCD: insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD and shield plate and insert the spudger as far as it will go. At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD. At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD.
  • Continue with the left side of the LCD: insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD and shield plate and insert the spudger as far as it will go.

  • At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD.

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Lift the LCD up a couple inches from the rear case to ensure it's free from the adhesive.
  • Lift the LCD up a couple inches from the rear case to ensure it's free from the adhesive.

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Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers. While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.
  • Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.

  • While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.

  • Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers while rotating the spudger outward to separate the tape from the speaker.

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Insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the LCD tape. While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.
  • Insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the LCD tape.

  • While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.

Add Comment

Flip the LCD over and rest it on top of the front panel glass. Do not attempt to remove the LCD from the iPad, as it is still connected by its data cable.
  • Flip the LCD over and rest it on top of the front panel glass.

  • Do not attempt to remove the LCD from the iPad, as it is still connected by its data cable.

Add Comment

Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:
  • Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:

    • Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00

    • Thirteen 1.7 mm Phillips #00

    • One additional 1.7 mm Phillips #00 on some devices.

At the iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are only 7 screws.

sandro - Reply

On my iPad Mini (Gen 1 WiFi; A1432), these are not #00 screws, but #000 screws. They're much tinier than the first four screws that held the LCD tabs in place. The #00 driver sorta works, but requires a lot of force to get traction. The #000 driver works like a charm, though.

volty - Reply

On my 1432 there were mixed in 4 tiny #000 screws holding the shield plate aong the right side. Looks like these can be mixed in without consequence as they are shorter anyway

gfriedman99 - Reply

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the LCD shield plate from the bottom end of the iPad. Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the LCD shield plate from the bottom end of the iPad.

  • Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.

Add Comment

Remove the LCD shield plate from the iPad.
  • Remove the LCD shield plate from the iPad.

Add Comment

Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.
  • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.

  • Be sure to not substitute these three screws with any other screws, specifically the screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad. Any slightly longer screws may strip the screw holes and result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...

jessabethany - Reply

Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!

Walter Galan -

Be careful: At iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are thw short and one longer screw! Don't mix them!

sandro - Reply

Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the connector shield from the iPad.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the connector shield from the iPad.

Add Comment

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder

Mattis - Reply

I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?

Grillwrecka -

Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.

Andrew Kivell -

There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.

jessabethany -

After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.

While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.

Michael Vovaris - Reply

Yeah, you need to put the pick in between the connections so the battery doesn't touch the logic board connector and blow a fuse and make your backlight not turn on. You really don't want to have to solder the 2 connections together, especially if you don't know how, like me! I will use your comment's advice when working.

WolfyHD - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board. Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.

Michael Vovaris - Reply

The LCD is still connected to the rest of the iPad by two wide strips of adhesive tape that run up from the inside of the rear case to the front bottom LCD frame. While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad's right side. Slide the spudger outward, separating the tape, while gently lifting up on the LCD to pull it away from the tape.
  • The LCD is still connected to the rest of the iPad by two wide strips of adhesive tape that run up from the inside of the rear case to the front bottom LCD frame.

  • While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad's right side.

  • Slide the spudger outward, separating the tape, while gently lifting up on the LCD to pull it away from the tape.

  • It may help to twist the spudger, to spread the gap the rest of the way and separate the LCD from the tape.

Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD

Nick Hughes - Reply

While still holding the LCD up with one hand, move on to the iPad's left side and repeat the previous step's procedure to separate the second piece of tape. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.
  • While still holding the LCD up with one hand, move on to the iPad's left side and repeat the previous step's procedure to separate the second piece of tape.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.

Add Comment

Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini. Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.
  • Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.

Add Comment

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board. Be very careful to pry evenly on the connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won't work.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to pry evenly on the connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won't work.

Add Comment

Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case. Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case.
  • Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case.

Be careful not to dislodge any of the surface mount components next to the connectors. This is sometimes a reason for the digitiser not working.

Simon - Reply

Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad. Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.
  • Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.

== After step 55 ==

Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.

Good Luck!!!!

Mike - Reply

If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.

Mike -

might be better to use a vacuum for safety reasons. you really dont want glass shards all over the place

gfriedman99 - Reply

If you're installing a new front panel assembly, it may need the following preparation: Peel the plastic strips covering the adhesive around the perimeter of the front panel assembly.
  • If you're installing a new front panel assembly, it may need the following preparation:

    • Peel the plastic strips covering the adhesive around the perimeter of the front panel assembly.

    • Remove the small piece of adhesive backing from the digitizer cable.

  • Make sure all copper is covered on the new replacement screen as once fitted without this the screen will move randomly.

The pieces didn't adhere properly at the step. However, I continued the process and didn't have any issue with operation of the screen or system. I would recommend that this be a QA check at the manufacturer or third party company.

paulmcneely - Reply

The new replacements have it wrapped in a sticker, I opened it to see if there was any adhesive, but there is not. Just carry on, ignore the pressing it on itself step.

Kelly Spongberg - Reply

Yes the new replacements have this all wrapped in a sticker but I still had false imput problems with the new front panel assembly.

Any ideas anyone?

Pilar A - Reply

Fold the digitizer cable back over onto itself and press firmly to secure the adhesive. Fold the digitizer cable back over onto itself and press firmly to secure the adhesive. Fold the digitizer cable back over onto itself and press firmly to secure the adhesive.
  • Fold the digitizer cable back over onto itself and press firmly to secure the adhesive.

The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.

Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!

luc - Reply

Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!

Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.

Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.

Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.

Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.

Barry Tresadern -

@Barry Tresadern

I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.

Patrick -

Excuse me for my ignorance but... where is the RE-assembly guide?

Francisco O - Reply

iFixit feels as if you don't need to actually fix the device, just take it apart ;)

Koby Springer -

With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?

James - Reply

James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.

Katie -

I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?

louamadio - Reply

Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.

Michael Vovaris -

I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?

James Johnson - Reply

the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)

ZARAGOZA - Reply

Yes..do not remove this tape!

Banu -

THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.

iKimmy - Reply

Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.

shanhaidong -

It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.

philippschuller - Reply

Before you install your new front panel, you'll need to transfer the smart cover magnets on your OLD front panel to your new front panel. Place the edge of a plastic opening tool on each side of the magnet near the top left corner of the front panel assembly.
  • Before you install your new front panel, you'll need to transfer the smart cover magnets on your OLD front panel to your new front panel.

  • Place the edge of a plastic opening tool on each side of the magnet near the top left corner of the front panel assembly.

  • Carefully wedge the edge of the right plastic opening tool underneath the magnet.

  • Steadily hold the right plastic opening tool in place.

  • Wedge the left plastic opening tool underneath the magnet and simultaneously pry and push it towards the right plastic opening tool.

  • This will require some force as the smart cover magnet is held in place with strong adhesive.

Add Comment

If necessary, use a pair of tweezers to partially peel back the piece of tape covering the smart cover magnet near the lower left corner of the front panel assembly.
  • If necessary, use a pair of tweezers to partially peel back the piece of tape covering the smart cover magnet near the lower left corner of the front panel assembly.

Add Comment

Use the previously described procedure to remove the smart cover magnet near the bottom left corner of the front panel assembly. Use the previously described procedure to remove the smart cover magnet near the bottom left corner of the front panel assembly.
  • Use the previously described procedure to remove the smart cover magnet near the bottom left corner of the front panel assembly.

Add Comment

In this step you will be transferring the smart cover magnets to the NEW front panel assembly. Use a pair of tweezers to carefully place the upper left smart cover magnet in place. Repeat the procedure with the bottom left smart cover magnet.
  • In this step you will be transferring the smart cover magnets to the NEW front panel assembly.

  • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully place the upper left smart cover magnet in place.

  • Repeat the procedure with the bottom left smart cover magnet.

  • If necessary, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flatten the piece of tape adhered to the bottom left smart cover magnet.

Do not forget to remove the protective film from inside of new digitizer, remove black insulating tape from bottom of old digitizer and place on new one, covering any and all exposed copper. Take your time - the repair is not hard but it is time consuming

David D - Reply

BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button

Chris Grayden - Reply

Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.

Phil Fite - Reply

No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?

Jim Dutton - Reply

Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!

Jim Dutton - Reply

Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.

Jim Dutton - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

331 other people completed this guide.

Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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40 Comments

This really isn't that hard of a repair, I struggle more with iphones than an iPad. Just be careful and diligent when you work. Hardest part for me is the stupid adhesive haha

Brendan McDonnell - Reply

ifixit is forgetting crucial steps in this repair. First off they need to make note of the small magnets on the back of the digitizer which are needed to use the smart cover feature on the ipad. And second they need to make note of the issues people are having with the touch acting up as soon as the digitizer is laid back down. you need to put tape on the contacts of the digitizer so that it does not directly touch the frame. also the iopener burned my microwave, your better off just using a heatgun and guitar picks/spudger.

info - Reply

Hi, I am having the exact issues where the touch is not responding. Where exactly do I need to put tape on the contacts of the digitizer so that it does not directly touch the frame? Can you explain in detail. Thanks.

yungwun619 -

Either it was updated or you overlooked it. For newcomers, the info implied about is covered in Step 60-63.

Keypad -

Again, ifixit leaves out a VERY important part that will BREAK the LCD if you forget to remove them. The sides of the LCD in the ipad mini has tape on it as well(you can even see the tape in the pictures above in the tutorial). If you do not remove this tape before inserting a tool under the sides of the LCD the LCD will BREAK! You must remove the foam ALL THE WAY AROUND THE LCD and peel back the tape from not only the top (as in the tutorial), but the sides of the LCD as well, holding it to the metal shield behind the LCD. The tape can be replaced, or re attached later, but it HAS to be removed before attempting removal of the LCD itself. I wish I would have known this before digging into the ipad mini. Fix the tutorial PLEASE!

Edward - Reply

too LATE, I BROKE THE TAPE lcd =((((((

Quynh Vu -

I completed a repair using this guide this past weekend. It took 2.5 hours mostly because the screen was too shattered to use the suction cup, and I had to clean up all the little bits of glass and adhesive. But the repair was a success! The iPad worked perfectly after I was done with the rebuild. I did forget to put back the two mini magnets that were for the smart cover but it was too late and I wasn't too worried about it at that point. Thanks again for a great guide.

Gregory Caporale - Reply

I was using the guide on the google app for Android and it was not as complete as this version on the website. Otherwise this was a great guide! Thanks again for the very detailed steps and photos.

Gregory Caporale - Reply

The only issue I had was the screen was shattered and made the use of the suction cup useless. I just continued to heat and remove the shards of glass a little at a time.

paulmcneely - Reply

Place clear packing tape or a screensaver on the shattered glass before you start and generally the suction cups will stick.

Patti Pender -

The adhesive on the packing tape will liquify under the heat of yhe iopener making it pretty useless. Heating and chipping seems to be the way to go. Ifixit eally should have adressed this ahead of time as i am assuming most people will be teplacing shattered screens. I mean why else would you go through this?

David Stotz -

Hopefully someone can help me. I have replaced the digitizer, but something is wrong. The digitizer is basically unresponsive, and acts like it is being touched in multiple places at once. This only happens when fully assembled. I tested with the digitizer NOT mounted to the chassis, and it works perfect. Is this a grounding problem?

bradj47 - Reply

Do you have to replace the smart magnets? is this a necessary step if you do not use the smart covers?

Michael - Reply

I didn't. No need.

Patti Pender -

This guide and the pictures are the best way to destroy your ipad, sorry to say so. If you insert the picks as deep as shown, you cut various wires such as the 3G antenna, the camera, the home button - all of them are placed on both narrow sides of the ipad. Further on you risk scratching the LCD surface, which consists of a dark foil that you may scratch off.

So to make it short: Fingers away from this guide!

dadoc - Reply

There is no 3G antenna on the Wi-Fi version. Use the correct guide for your device and these issues go away.

The guide carries warnings where the cables and antennae are and cautions you where to place picks.

Patti Pender -

After connecting the new digitizer I plugged in the LCD the digitizer and the battery connectors, installed the metal shields and tried to power on the iPad. Unfortunately the screen is grey white while booting, only half the Apple is visible and upon booting the colours are strange but I can use both the digitizer and the home button. Do you think I damaged the LCD during the process or did I break anything on the motherboard?

finn2k1 - Reply

I would check that the lcd cable isn't trapped or kinked under itself when plugged into the board. The iPhone 5 does exactly this when the cable isn't located spot on.

Gavin -

I did this over the weekend, took about 2 hours all told, as others have said cos the glass was shattered.

I found it very easy to just use a hairdryer to melt the glue enough to get the panel and digitiser off the chassis.

Unfortunately the home button is behaving a little oddly, and Im guessing its grounding out as it keeps kicking back to the home screen.

Ill report back when I have found out more.

Gavin.

Gavin - Reply

This was my first attempt at repair. So I went with an older model. He's what I've learned. Quite a bit of attention was made to keep the digitizer connected to the device. In my case, I was replacing it, so it didn't make a difference if I kept the broken glass attached. It was pretty annoying to have glass all over the place (even after taping) when I could have just cut the ribbon cable. Secondly, as previously posted, bend your ribbon cable on the new digitizer FIRST. But, it's not clear how it should be bent. After folding the digitizer back, it becomes straightened back out a bit before you use it as an example for the new cable. It should really be folded up accordion style so that there's a tight backward S shape to it. If you don't get the fold right the first time, just reheat the corner, pull just enough on the suction cup to slide a guitar pick in and push the cable into it's little space where it belongs.

jefowler4th - Reply

Good thing! I did it with success!!

Few things to make it easier for new users, said above but now clear.

- if your glas is shattered, its hard to remove it. But keep tryin it will work if you give it enough time.

- be careful at removing the lcd. The glue is holding it back on the metal plate. Slow an easy.

- bend the flex cable of the front panel before you reassemble. Or be very careful if you already reassembled but have to glue the glas onto the body. Push with a stump tool onto the cable until its an "s" and fits into the gap.

- finally, there are many versions of new glas. The adhesive isnt very strong on them. Maybe put some extra glue under the glas. Otherwise it wont stay fixed.

Good Luck

harry90 - Reply

I did my iPad Mini repair yesterday, took me 4 hours because I was slow and careful and it was my first time with this device, and here is my 2 cents'worth:

If the glass is cracked I wouldn't bother with taping it. I put the tape on, found I couldn't proceed because I couldn't get any suction with the suction cup, so took the tape off again.

Disconnecting the battery and LCD connectors is a swings and roundabouts thing. If you leave them connected, especially the battery connector, and you short something, you have a bad situation. However, if you disconnect them, and in the process of doing so, you damage the delicate connector. that is also a bad situation. I did it without disconnecting them and it worked OK.

The tape over the copper contacts is important. I put ordinary clear tape over the contacts and I got random movements on the screen. Then I put a strip of electrical tape on top of that and the random movements improved. Then I put another strip of electrical tape on and it's OK now.

Peter Gray - Reply

Another couple of things: the self adhesive strip around the edge of the new screen isn't anything like the original glue. It's OK for a temporary repair while you see if the thing works or not, but to make it permanent you really need to use iGlue or whatever Apple uses.

When I reassembled the unit I found that the front facing camera wasn't quite aligned with the spyhole in the front glass. This is because the camera is on a flexible mount which allows for a couple of millimetres movement in all directions. You just need to watch this when reassembling.

Peter Gray - Reply

Mischief managed, though it would have been nice if there was process for changing out the home button. One I ordered did not come with one. Ended up going to YouTube to find a video on how to do those steps.

Greg Beaudry - Reply

how to order a digitizer for ipad mini 1

kent bacalso - Reply

Why didn't anyone cover how to tak out the home button and replace it in the new digitizer?

gocaps25 - Reply

Troubles with the home button why isnt there steps on how to put it ?

Marvin - Reply

The following should be added to this guide

Digitizer random touch after replacement

aRI - Reply

How do you remove the old adhesive?

There is nothing in the repair kit to remove the adhesive.

Pierre St Gelais - Reply

Did this fix the other day and everything works except the iPad won't charge past 2 percent and keeps restarting.

Any help on what is causing this?

Thanks!

Steve - Reply

Did the repair everything works except the screen keeps acting like the magnet case is on and turning itself off at random I took the magnets out and am still having the same issue.

Robert - Reply

Well the yellow tape that came with the new screen came off replaced it and works like it should make sure the yellow tape stays on the screen

Robert - Reply

I did it. Everything whent smoodly but one small problem. The digitaser reads nothing. :( the button works.

Sandor Falkesund - Reply

Didn't work. =( Did the whole replacement, seemed to go mostly okay, but when I powered the device back on the touchscreen is completely unresponsive. My daughter is very sad, and I'm out $60. All the connectors clicked into place, so I have no clue what I did wrong, or if the part is bad, but the thought of spending another 2+ hours re-doing it is more than I can stand.

bh - Reply

I had successfully done 5 minis with no issues the last one had ghost touch then the digitizer died i think I damaged the digitizer flex I used kapton tape over the copper contacts this should stop the screen jumping and ghost touch be very careful when bending the digitizer flex it so easily damaged take time to get it right. For sticking the digitizer back down the adhesive supplied is not man enough to keep screen down on its own so I used IPAD ADHESIVE TAPE DOUBLE SIDED REDTAPE SUPER STRONG STICKY comes in different width's Easily got on eBay I found 'this worked the best and so far had no issues with digitizer lifting since using this tape

Jon maccallum - Reply

Followed this to replace a broken LCD. Turned out I needed the front screen with digitizer. Word of warning: I might have been a bit rough removing the screen first time and damaged the digitizer.

Stephen - Reply

After doing this repair the cameras aren't working... :( The camera app starts up and appears to be working with all the white buttons, but the screen is black. I can change between front and back camera (I see that it does it because one of the cameras has HDR.

I don't know what to do here. I've tried to reset it with the power- and home button but that doesn't fix it.

Any ideas?

Krister Turøy - Reply

If you're on the fence about your abilities, give this a try. It really isn't too bad.

I decided to remove the old (shattered) digitizer with an Xacto knife as I had seen elsewhere. That made quick work of that stage, but I would recommend gloves and being extra careful on the sides. The rest is fairly familiar, a lot like an iPhone if you've ever repaired one of those.

Another tip is to use a magnet from your fridge to keep the right screws together.

Wesley Applequist - Reply

The new adhesive doesn't stick very well and the side of the screen keeps popping up and I don't know what to do what should I do about this?

Peter Carlson - Reply

Hi Peter! As with all adhesives it will work best on a clean surface. If you can pop the glass up without damaging it or the adhesive, you may be able to check for any dirt or leftover adhesive, and rub down the case with some isopropyl alcohol to clean up any grime or finger oils. You can also check for misplaced cables or other components that didn't settle back correctly. If you don't want to risk reopening the device, you may be able to help set the adhesive by applying light pressure for a few hours. Warning though, if there is a hard high-point on the case anywhere, adding pressure on the device may cause the glass to crack in that location. Stack a few mid-sized books on the iPad overnight to help activate the pressure sensitive adhesive, you don't need to press hard, just light pressure over time will help. You can also check out our Answers forum for more help. Good luck!

Sam Lionheart -

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