Introduction

Use this guide to replace the logic board.

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

hello -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - Reply

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Reply

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - Reply

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - Reply

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

In case of broken glass, here are some hints:

- I prefer 3M "3350" tape; a metalized polypropylene tape with an acrylic adhesive. It's a very thin, silvery HVAC tape, not your standard duct tape.

- Test your tape to make sure it sticks really well to the glass.

- Use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove fingerprints and other dirt to help the tape stick to the screen.

- Use the widest tape you can find, and apply it evenly, without trapping bubbles, without crinkles: This greatly improves your chance of success with the suction cup later.

- Cut tape pieces long enough and go over the (rounded) edge; afterwards carefully run a scalpel alongside the edge (between bezel and glass) to trim off any excess.

- Don't overlap edges of the tape: butt-join them instead.

- If needed: repeat in other direction.

- If needed: Cut square piece of tape (size of suction cup) and place it where you want to lift the glass, so that the suction cup doesn't cover any butt-joins.

Good luck, you brave person!

volty - Reply

Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
  • Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

  • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

I worked at it for over 2 hours before deciding to microwave the opener for 45 seconds at a time. That seemed to do the trick.

jaromhyde - Reply

Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
  • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

  • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you may risk cracking the glass.

This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?

robloomis - Reply

just pick out the glass shards if it is cracked that bad you are better off scrapping the digitizer

Ethan Chow -

for shattered screens I cover the screen with tape. I find packing tape works best for me.

George - Reply

While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD. Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

  • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

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Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.
  • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
  • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

  • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
  • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

  • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
  • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.
  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

  • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
  • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive. Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
  • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

  • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

  • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
  • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
  • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

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Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass. Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.
  • Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.

  • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
  • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

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Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.
  • Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

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Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
  • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

  • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner. Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad. There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:
  • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

  • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

  • There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:

    • Antennas

    • Home button cavity

    • Digitizer cable

  • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

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Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing. With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button. Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
  • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

  • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

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Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button. Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable. Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
  • Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.

  • Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.

  • Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.

  • Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

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Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.
  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

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Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat. At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
  • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

  • At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.

  • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

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Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.
  • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace. Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
  • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

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The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it. Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel. Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.
  • The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.

  • Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.

  • Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

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Small pieces of foam tape cover the top and bottom right-hand screws securing the LCD to the rear case. Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw. Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.
  • Small pieces of foam tape cover the top and bottom right-hand screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

  • Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw.

  • Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.

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The top left LCD screw may be covered by adhesive tape from the front panel. If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.
  • The top left LCD screw may be covered by adhesive tape from the front panel.

  • If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.

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Remove the four 3.9 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.
  • Remove the four 3.9 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

In my case the 4 screws are not the same. One is 4mm, and 3 of 3.5mm, or better 2 x 3.5mm and one 3.45mm. I put the longest one at the left edge at left of the LCD flat cable.

mitja

Mitja Jankovic - Reply

Hi Mitja. I just checked the measurements with an electronic digital caliper. I got 3.9 mm for all four screws. Are you sure it was the same model? Thanks.

Walter Galan -

The top left screw is longer than the other 3 - iPad mini Retina Wi-Fi.

sandro - Reply

On mine the top right screw is longer

oliver - Reply

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker. Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.

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A thin strip of foam tape on the LCD frame is covering a piece of tape connecting the LCD to the panel beneath it. To proceed, you'll have to break and peel up some of the foam tape to expose the tape hidden beneath. Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD. Be careful not to touch the LCD with the tweezers, as you may damage the display.
  • A thin strip of foam tape on the LCD frame is covering a piece of tape connecting the LCD to the panel beneath it. To proceed, you'll have to break and peel up some of the foam tape to expose the tape hidden beneath.

  • Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD.

    • Be careful not to touch the LCD with the tweezers, as you may damage the display.

  • Use the tweezers to peel the foam tape up to expose the top of the LCD.

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Insert the tip of a spudger between the LCD  frame and the tape on the top of the LCD. Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame. Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger between the LCD frame and the tape on the top of the LCD.

  • Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.

I finished a successful replacement of my screen following these instructions. Thanks.

Step 36 (remove tape from LCD perimeter), however, seems unnecessary. I ended up spending a lot of time separating the tape from the LCD frame only to discover it was not necessary for steps 37-44 and actually made things really difficult for step 45-46 (removing the tape near the speakers). Finally, steps 45-46 can be skipped since it is much easier to remove this tape once you flip the LCD over (Step 55).

Kenneth Snyder - Reply

The LCD is glued to the metal LCD shield plate behind it along the top, left, and right edges. In order to safely loosen this adhesive, you'll be using a guitar pick to shift the LCD a couple of millimeters left and right several times. Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.
  • The LCD is glued to the metal LCD shield plate behind it along the top, left, and right edges. In order to safely loosen this adhesive, you'll be using a guitar pick to shift the LCD a couple of millimeters left and right several times.

  • Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.

  • Bend the pick slightly away from the iPad, just enough to spread the gap between the LCD and rear case.

I found a very simple method for removing the LCD from the metal shield. Slightly lift one of the top corners and insert a 1' piece of fishing line. Insert the line under the other top corner placing the length between the LCD and shield. Once in place, gently pull each end toward the bottom of the LCD breaking the adhesive as you go. This will make things much easier than using the picks and possibly breaking the LCD.

bababooey - Reply

Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case. Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case. Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case.
  • Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case.

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Now switch to the right side of the LCD, and pry with the guitar pick in several places along the side to shift the LCD back to the left. Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right. Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right.
  • Now switch to the right side of the LCD, and pry with the guitar pick in several places along the side to shift the LCD back to the left.

  • Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right.

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In the next few steps, you'll be sliding a spudger between the LCD and the metal backing plate to fully separate the LCD from the adhesive beneath. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate. Be sure to get the spudger between the LCD frame and backing plate, and not beneath the plate. Prying up on the plate will damage it, because it is screwed down to the rear case beneath the LCD.
  • In the next few steps, you'll be sliding a spudger between the LCD and the metal backing plate to fully separate the LCD from the adhesive beneath.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate.

    • Be sure to get the spudger between the LCD frame and backing plate, and not beneath the plate. Prying up on the plate will damage it, because it is screwed down to the rear case beneath the LCD.

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Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push. The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD. If inserting the spudger causes the corner of the LCD to bend up, repeat the steps with the guitar pick to further loosen the adhesive.
  • Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push.

    • The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD.

  • If inserting the spudger causes the corner of the LCD to bend up, repeat the steps with the guitar pick to further loosen the adhesive.

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Repeat the previous procedure along the top of the LCD. Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive. Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.
  • Repeat the previous procedure along the top of the LCD.

  • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.

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Continue with the left side of the LCD: insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD and shield plate and insert the spudger as far as it will go. At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD. At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD.
  • Continue with the left side of the LCD: insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD and shield plate and insert the spudger as far as it will go.

  • At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD.

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Lift the LCD up a couple inches from the rear case to ensure it's free from the adhesive.
  • Lift the LCD up a couple inches from the rear case to ensure it's free from the adhesive.

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Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers. While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.
  • Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.

  • While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.

  • Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers while rotating the spudger outward to separate the tape from the speaker.

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Insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the LCD tape. While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.
  • Insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the LCD tape.

  • While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.

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Flip the LCD over and rest it on top of the front panel glass. Do not attempt to remove the LCD from the iPad, as it is still connected by its data cable.
  • Flip the LCD over and rest it on top of the front panel glass.

  • Do not attempt to remove the LCD from the iPad, as it is still connected by its data cable.

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Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:
  • Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:

    • Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00

    • Thirteen 1.7 mm Phillips #00

    • One additional 1.7 mm Phillips #00 on some devices.

At the iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are only 7 screws.

sandro - Reply

On my iPad Mini (Gen 1 WiFi; A1432), these are not #00 screws, but #000 screws. They're much tinier than the first four screws that held the LCD tabs in place. The #00 driver sorta works, but requires a lot of force to get traction. The #000 driver works like a charm, though.

volty - Reply

On my 1432 there were mixed in 4 tiny #000 screws holding the shield plate aong the right side. Looks like these can be mixed in without consequence as they are shorter anyway

gfriedman99 - Reply

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the LCD shield plate from the bottom end of the iPad. Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the LCD shield plate from the bottom end of the iPad.

  • Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.

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Remove the LCD shield plate from the iPad.
  • Remove the LCD shield plate from the iPad.

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Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.
  • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.

  • Be sure to not substitute these three screws with any other screws, specifically the screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad. Any slightly longer screws may strip the screw holes and result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...

jessabethany - Reply

Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!

Walter Galan -

Be careful: At iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are thw short and one longer screw! Don't mix them!

sandro - Reply

Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the connector shield from the iPad.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the connector shield from the iPad.

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Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder

Mattis - Reply

I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?

Grillwrecka -

Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.

Andrew Kivell -

There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.

jessabethany -

After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.

While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.

Michael Vovaris - Reply

Yeah, you need to put the pick in between the connections so the battery doesn't touch the logic board connector and blow a fuse and make your backlight not turn on. You really don't want to have to solder the 2 connections together, especially if you don't know how, like me! I will use your comment's advice when working.

WolfyHD - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board. Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.

Michael Vovaris - Reply

The LCD is still connected to the rest of the iPad by two wide strips of adhesive tape that run up from the inside of the rear case to the front bottom LCD frame. While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad's right side. Slide the spudger outward, separating the tape, while gently lifting up on the LCD to pull it away from the tape.
  • The LCD is still connected to the rest of the iPad by two wide strips of adhesive tape that run up from the inside of the rear case to the front bottom LCD frame.

  • While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad's right side.

  • Slide the spudger outward, separating the tape, while gently lifting up on the LCD to pull it away from the tape.

  • It may help to twist the spudger, to spread the gap the rest of the way and separate the LCD from the tape.

Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD

Nick Hughes - Reply

While still holding the LCD up with one hand, move on to the iPad's left side and repeat the previous step's procedure to separate the second piece of tape. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.
  • While still holding the LCD up with one hand, move on to the iPad's left side and repeat the previous step's procedure to separate the second piece of tape.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.

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Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini. Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.
  • Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.

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Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board. Be very careful to pry evenly on the connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won't work.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to pry evenly on the connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won't work.

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Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case. Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case.
  • Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case.

Be careful not to dislodge any of the surface mount components next to the connectors. This is sometimes a reason for the digitiser not working.

Simon - Reply

Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad. Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.
  • Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.

== After step 55 ==

Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.

Good Luck!!!!

Mike - Reply

If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.

Mike -

might be better to use a vacuum for safety reasons. you really dont want glass shards all over the place

gfriedman99 - Reply

Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute. Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.
  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.

    • Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.

  • Place the heated iOpener on the back of the iPad, along the center. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.

  • Move the iOpener to the right of the back of the iPad (the side opposite the rear-facing camera), and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.

    • If the iOpener cools significantly between sittings, reheat it for another minute.

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Throughout the following procedure, you'll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad, to separate the adhesive securing the battery in place. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals. Flip the iPad back over and insert a plastic card between the top left battery and the rear case.
  • Throughout the following procedure, you'll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad, to separate the adhesive securing the battery in place. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

  • Flip the iPad back over and insert a plastic card between the top left battery and the rear case.

  • If you encounter significant resistance, re-heat the iOpener and repeat the previous step to give the adhesive more time to soften.

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Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can. Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can.
  • Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can.

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Remove the plastic card and reinsert it underneath the top right corner of the battery. Remove the plastic card and reinsert it underneath the top right corner of the battery.
  • Remove the plastic card and reinsert it underneath the top right corner of the battery.

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Again, press the card in further, to break more of the adhesive behind the battery. Leave this card in place to prevent the adhesive from resetting.
  • Again, press the card in further, to break more of the adhesive behind the battery.

  • Leave this card in place to prevent the adhesive from resetting.

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Insert a second plastic card beneath the bottom left corner of the battery. Insert a second plastic card beneath the bottom left corner of the battery.
  • Insert a second plastic card beneath the bottom left corner of the battery.

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Slowly push the card in further, breaking more of the adhesive between the battery and the rear case. Slowly push the card in further, breaking more of the adhesive between the battery and the rear case.
  • Slowly push the card in further, breaking more of the adhesive between the battery and the rear case.

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Remove the card and reinsert it, beneath the bottom right corner of the battery. Remove the card and reinsert it, beneath the bottom right corner of the battery.
  • Remove the card and reinsert it, beneath the bottom right corner of the battery.

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Push the card further underneath the battery. Push the card further underneath the battery.
  • Push the card further underneath the battery.

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Grasp both cards and slowly pull the right side of the battery up about two inches from the rear case. Peel slowly and try to keep the battery as straight as possible.
  • Grasp both cards and slowly pull the right side of the battery up about two inches from the rear case.

  • Peel slowly and try to keep the battery as straight as possible.

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While lifting the right side of the battery up with one hand, use a plastic card to cut any adhesive still holding the battery down to the rear case.
  • While lifting the right side of the battery up with one hand, use a plastic card to cut any adhesive still holding the battery down to the rear case.

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Lift and remove the battery from the iPad. Lift and remove the battery from the iPad. Lift and remove the battery from the iPad.
  • Lift and remove the battery from the iPad.

Where can I get a battery?

Mike Munn - Reply

Hi as a novice i found this page absolutely BRILLIANT...

there are so many tiny screws and components that i would of buggered something for sure if i didnt have your instructions

can you advise when you reinstall everything does the tapes have to go back on ( most are not sticky now. some seem to have a metallic surface ????

if so what is the name of the tapes and can i get in New Zealand?

or do you sell??

thanks again

BRILLIANT.

Richard New Zealand

Richard Sutton - Reply

Use a SIM card eject tool or an uncoiled paperclip to eject the SIM card tray. Use a SIM card eject tool or an uncoiled paperclip to eject the SIM card tray.
  • Use a SIM card eject tool or an uncoiled paperclip to eject the SIM card tray.

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Use a fingernail to pull the SIM card tray out from the iPad. Remove the SIM card tray. Remove the SIM card tray.
  • Use a fingernail to pull the SIM card tray out from the iPad.

  • Remove the SIM card tray.

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Use the tip of a spudger to start peeling up the right side of the black tape covering the small metal bracket. Use tweezers to peel the tape up the rest of the way, and remove it from the bracket. Use tweezers to peel the tape up the rest of the way, and remove it from the bracket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to start peeling up the right side of the black tape covering the small metal bracket.

  • Use tweezers to peel the tape up the rest of the way, and remove it from the bracket.

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Use a plastic opening tool to push the bracket slightly to the left. Use a plastic opening tool to push the bracket slightly to the left.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to push the bracket slightly to the left.

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Use a spudger tip to lift up the lower side of the bracket. Use a spudger tip to lift up the lower side of the bracket.
  • Use a spudger tip to lift up the lower side of the bracket.

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Remove the bracket with tweezers. During reassembly, hook the top edge of the plate in place first, then lower the bottom into its slots.
  • Remove the bracket with tweezers.

  • During reassembly, hook the top edge of the plate in place first, then lower the bottom into its slots.

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Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the front-facing camera cable connector. Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the front-facing camera cable connector.
  • Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the front-facing camera cable connector.

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The front-facing camera cable connector is secured with pieces of tape that wrap up around the sides of the cable and are fastened to two small metal plates. Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the upper metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.
  • The front-facing camera cable connector is secured with pieces of tape that wrap up around the sides of the cable and are fastened to two small metal plates.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the upper metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.

  • Being careful not to break the plate or the tape attached to it, pry it up and fold it away from the front-facing camera cable connector.

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Gently pry the second (lower) metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector. Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the front-facing camera cable connector.
  • Gently pry the second (lower) metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.

  • Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the front-facing camera cable connector.

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Use a plastic opening tool to pry the front-facing camera cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the front-facing camera cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the front-facing camera cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board.

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Gently fold the front-facing camera cable up and out of the way of the logic board. Gently fold the front-facing camera cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
  • Gently fold the front-facing camera cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

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Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the headphone jack cable connector. Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the headphone jack cable connector.
  • Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the headphone jack cable connector.

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Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the lower metal plate up from the headphone jack cable connector. Being careful not to break the plate or the tape attached to it, pry it up and fold it away from the headphone jack cable connector.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the lower metal plate up from the headphone jack cable connector.

  • Being careful not to break the plate or the tape attached to it, pry it up and fold it away from the headphone jack cable connector.

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Pry the second (top) metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector. Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the headphone jack cable connector.
  • Pry the second (top) metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.

  • Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the headphone jack cable connector.

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Use a plastic opening tool to pry the headphone jack cable's connector up out of its socket on the logic board. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the headphone jack cable's connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the headphone jack cable's connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

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Gently bend the headphone jack cable back, away from the logic board. Gently bend the headphone jack cable back, away from the logic board.
  • Gently bend the headphone jack cable back, away from the logic board.

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Use a plastic opening tool to pry the top left antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the top left antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the top left antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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Remove the following three screws securing the top right antenna to the rear case:
  • Remove the following three screws securing the top right antenna to the rear case:

    • Two 1.3 mm #00 Phillips screws from the side of the antenna's socket.

    • One 1.8 mm #00 Phillips screw.

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Disconnect the top right antenna's coaxial cable from the logic board with a plastic opening tool. Gently bend the cable and screw tab up out of the way of the logic board. Gently bend the cable and screw tab up out of the way of the logic board.
  • Disconnect the top right antenna's coaxial cable from the logic board with a plastic opening tool.

  • Gently bend the cable and screw tab up out of the way of the logic board.

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Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear-facing camera cable up from its socket on the logic board. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear-facing camera cable up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear-facing camera cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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Pry the top right antenna's ribbon cable up from its socket on the logic board with a plastic opening tool. Pry the top right antenna's ribbon cable up from its socket on the logic board with a plastic opening tool.
  • Pry the top right antenna's ribbon cable up from its socket on the logic board with a plastic opening tool.

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Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the button ribbon cable ZIF connector.
  • Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

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Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the tab on the button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the tab on the button ribbon cable ZIF connector.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the tab on the button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

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Use tweezers to pull the button ribbon cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board. Use tweezers to pull the button ribbon cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.
  • Use tweezers to pull the button ribbon cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

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Gently peel back the wide piece of tape covering the top of the right speaker. Gently peel back the wide piece of tape covering the top of the right speaker. Gently peel back the wide piece of tape covering the top of the right speaker.
  • Gently peel back the wide piece of tape covering the top of the right speaker.

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Continue peeling the tape, and remove it from the iPad. Continue peeling the tape, and remove it from the iPad. Continue peeling the tape, and remove it from the iPad.
  • Continue peeling the tape, and remove it from the iPad.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two bottom antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two bottom antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two bottom antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two bottom antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the logic board.

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Use the tip of a spudger to peel back the small piece of tape covering both antenna cables on the bottom right side of the iPad. Leave the lower part of the tape stuck to the back of the rear case to aid in reassembly.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to peel back the small piece of tape covering both antenna cables on the bottom right side of the iPad.

  • Leave the lower part of the tape stuck to the back of the rear case to aid in reassembly.

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With the tip of a spudger, peel up the larger piece of tape covering both antenna cables near the bottom of the rear case. Do not try to remove this piece of tape; it is wrapped around the top antenna cable.
  • With the tip of a spudger, peel up the larger piece of tape covering both antenna cables near the bottom of the rear case.

  • Do not try to remove this piece of tape; it is wrapped around the top antenna cable.

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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small metal retaining clip off the left antenna cable, then de-route the cable from the clip. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small metal retaining clip off the left antenna cable, then de-route the cable from the clip. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small metal retaining clip off the left antenna cable, then de-route the cable from the clip.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small metal retaining clip off the left antenna cable, then de-route the cable from the clip.

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De-route the antenna cable from the corner of the iPad. De-route the antenna cable from the corner of the iPad.
  • De-route the antenna cable from the corner of the iPad.

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Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small piece of tape securing the antenna cable in the bottom right corner of the iPad. Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small piece of tape securing the antenna cable in the bottom right corner of the iPad.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small piece of tape securing the antenna cable in the bottom right corner of the iPad.

Add Comment

Peel the cable back from the corner of the iPad.
  • Peel the cable back from the corner of the iPad.

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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable tape up from the rear case of the iPad. Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape, to keep it from resealing. Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape, to keep it from resealing.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable tape up from the rear case of the iPad.

  • Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape, to keep it from resealing.

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Pull the antenna cable from the slot behind the Lightning connector. Pull the antenna cable from the slot behind the Lightning connector.
  • Pull the antenna cable from the slot behind the Lightning connector.

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Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover on top of the horizontal screw on the right side of the Lightning connector housing. Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover on top of the horizontal screw on the right side of the Lightning connector housing.
  • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover on top of the horizontal screw on the right side of the Lightning connector housing.

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Remove the plastic covering from the left side of the Lightning connector housing. Remove the plastic covering from the left side of the Lightning connector housing.
  • Remove the plastic covering from the left side of the Lightning connector housing.

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Pull the wide tape toward the top of the iPad, applying constant force to release it from the antenna cable between it and the speaker. Slide the tip of a spudger through the gap between the wide tape and the antenna cable, breaking the adhesive connecting the two. Continue pulling the wide tape until it is no longer covering the antenna cable.
  • Pull the wide tape toward the top of the iPad, applying constant force to release it from the antenna cable between it and the speaker.

  • Slide the tip of a spudger through the gap between the wide tape and the antenna cable, breaking the adhesive connecting the two.

  • Continue pulling the wide tape until it is no longer covering the antenna cable.

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Peel back and remove the wide tape from the iPad. Peel back and remove the wide tape from the iPad. Peel back and remove the wide tape from the iPad.
  • Peel back and remove the wide tape from the iPad.

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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable tape up from the rear case of the iPad. Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape, to keep it from resealing. Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape, to keep it from resealing.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable tape up from the rear case of the iPad.

  • Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape, to keep it from resealing.

Add Comment

Remove the following three screws securing the bottom left antenna to the rear case:
  • Remove the following three screws securing the bottom left antenna to the rear case:

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #00 screw.

    • One 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw.

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw.

Add Comment

Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive securing the lower left antenna to the left speaker. Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive securing the lower left antenna to the left speaker.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive securing the lower left antenna to the left speaker.

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Remove the antenna from the iPad.
  • Remove the antenna from the iPad.

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Remove the following screws:
  • Remove the following screws:

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips #00

    • Two 1.1 mm Phillips #00

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #00

Add Comment

Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive holding the antenna to the right speaker. Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive holding the antenna to the right speaker. Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive holding the antenna to the right speaker.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive holding the antenna to the right speaker.

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Remove two 1.4 mm #00 Phillips screws securing the left and right speakers to the rear case.
  • Remove two 1.4 mm #00 Phillips screws securing the left and right speakers to the rear case.

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Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the left speaker and the bottom left side of the rear case. Pry around the bottom of the speaker, sliding it out from its recess in the rear case.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the left speaker and the bottom left side of the rear case.

  • Pry around the bottom of the speaker, sliding it out from its recess in the rear case.

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Once enough of the speaker is exposed, grasp it and pull it away from its recess in the rear case. Remove the left speaker from the iPad.
  • Once enough of the speaker is exposed, grasp it and pull it away from its recess in the rear case.

  • Remove the left speaker from the iPad.

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Use the tip of a spudger to slide the right speaker slightly toward the outside of the iPad. Use the tip of a spudger to slide the right speaker slightly toward the outside of the iPad.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to slide the right speaker slightly toward the outside of the iPad.

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Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the bottom right corner of the case. Pry the speaker out from its recess in the rear case.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the bottom right corner of the case.

  • Pry the speaker out from its recess in the rear case.

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Once enough of the speaker is exposed, grasp it and pull it away from its slot in the rear case. Remove the right speaker from the iPad.
  • Once enough of the speaker is exposed, grasp it and pull it away from its slot in the rear case.

  • Remove the right speaker from the iPad.

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Remove two 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the base of the Lightning connector.
  • Remove two 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the base of the Lightning connector.

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Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.
  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.

    • Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.

  • Place the heated iOpener on the left side of the back of the iPad. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the logic board adhesive.

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Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning port cable, freeing it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case. Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning port cable, freeing it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case. Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning port cable, freeing it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
  • Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning port cable, freeing it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

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Gently insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the logic board at various points, slowly prying it up from the rear case. Be very careful to pry evenly and avoid bending or stressing the logic board. If it is hard to insert the spudger, reheat the iOpener and reapply it to the back of the iPad. Be very careful to pry evenly and avoid bending or stressing the logic board. If it is hard to insert the spudger, reheat the iOpener and reapply it to the back of the iPad.
  • Gently insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the logic board at various points, slowly prying it up from the rear case.

  • Be very careful to pry evenly and avoid bending or stressing the logic board. If it is hard to insert the spudger, reheat the iOpener and reapply it to the back of the iPad.

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Continue to use the spudger to pry the logic board up from the rear case. Continue to use the spudger to pry the logic board up from the rear case. Continue to use the spudger to pry the logic board up from the rear case.
  • Continue to use the spudger to pry the logic board up from the rear case.

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Once all of the adhesive is broken and the logic board is free, gently lift it up from the top. Again, be careful not to bend or stress the logic board—make certain that you have cleared all of the adhesive with the spudger. Lift the logic board and Lightning cable assembly up and pull toward the top of the iPad to remove the Lightning connector from its housing.
  • Once all of the adhesive is broken and the logic board is free, gently lift it up from the top.

    • Again, be careful not to bend or stress the logic board—make certain that you have cleared all of the adhesive with the spudger.

  • Lift the logic board and Lightning cable assembly up and pull toward the top of the iPad to remove the Lightning connector from its housing.

  • Remove the assembly from the iPad.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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