Introduction

Use this guide to replace the top right antenna.

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

Fredrik -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - Reply

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Reply

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - Reply

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - Reply

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

In case of broken glass, here are some hints:

- I prefer 3M "3350" tape; a metalized polypropylene tape with an acrylic adhesive. It's a very thin, silvery HVAC tape, not your standard duct tape.

- Test your tape to make sure it sticks really well to the glass.

- Use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove fingerprints and other dirt to help the tape stick to the screen.

- Use the widest tape you can find, and apply it evenly, without trapping bubbles, without crinkles: This greatly improves your chance of success with the suction cup later.

- Cut tape pieces long enough and go over the (rounded) edge; afterwards carefully run a scalpel alongside the edge (between bezel and glass) to trim off any excess.

- Don't overlap edges of the tape: butt-join them instead.

- If needed: repeat in other direction.

- If needed: Cut square piece of tape (size of suction cup) and place it where you want to lift the glass, so that the suction cup doesn't cover any butt-joins.

Good luck, you brave person!

volty - Reply

Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
  • Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

  • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

I worked at it for over 2 hours before deciding to microwave the opener for 45 seconds at a time. That seemed to do the trick.

jaromhyde - Reply

Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
  • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

  • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you may risk cracking the glass.

This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?

robloomis - Reply

just pick out the glass shards if it is cracked that bad you are better off scrapping the digitizer

Ethan Chow -

for shattered screens I cover the screen with tape. I find packing tape works best for me.

George - Reply

While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD. Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

  • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

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Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.
  • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
  • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

  • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
  • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

  • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
  • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.
  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

  • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
  • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive. Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
  • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

  • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

  • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
  • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
  • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

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Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass. Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.
  • Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.

  • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
  • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

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Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.
  • Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

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Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
  • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

  • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner. Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad. There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:
  • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

  • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

  • There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:

    • Antennas

    • Home button cavity

    • Digitizer cable

  • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

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Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing. With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button. Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
  • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

  • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

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Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button. Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable. Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
  • Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.

  • Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.

  • Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.

  • Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

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Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.
  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

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Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat. At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
  • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

  • At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.

  • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

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Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.
  • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace. Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
  • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

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The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it. Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel. Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.
  • The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.

  • Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.

  • Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

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Small pieces of foam tape cover the top and bottom right-hand screws securing the LCD to the rear case. Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw. Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.
  • Small pieces of foam tape cover the top and bottom right-hand screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

  • Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw.

  • Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.

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The top left LCD screw may be covered by adhesive tape from the front panel. If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.
  • The top left LCD screw may be covered by adhesive tape from the front panel.

  • If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.

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Remove the four 3.9 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.
  • Remove the four 3.9 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

In my case the 4 screws are not the same. One is 4mm, and 3 of 3.5mm, or better 2 x 3.5mm and one 3.45mm. I put the longest one at the left edge at left of the LCD flat cable.

mitja

Mitja Jankovic - Reply

Hi Mitja. I just checked the measurements with an electronic digital caliper. I got 3.9 mm for all four screws. Are you sure it was the same model? Thanks.

Walter Galan -

The top left screw is longer than the other 3 - iPad mini Retina Wi-Fi.

sandro - Reply

On mine the top right screw is longer

oliver - Reply

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker. Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.

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A thin strip of foam tape on the LCD frame is covering a piece of tape connecting the LCD to the panel beneath it. To proceed, you'll have to break and peel up some of the foam tape to expose the tape hidden beneath. Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD. Be careful not to touch the LCD with the tweezers, as you may damage the display.
  • A thin strip of foam tape on the LCD frame is covering a piece of tape connecting the LCD to the panel beneath it. To proceed, you'll have to break and peel up some of the foam tape to expose the tape hidden beneath.

  • Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD.

    • Be careful not to touch the LCD with the tweezers, as you may damage the display.

  • Use the tweezers to peel the foam tape up to expose the top of the LCD.

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Insert the tip of a spudger between the LCD  frame and the tape on the top of the LCD. Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame. Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger between the LCD frame and the tape on the top of the LCD.

  • Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.

I finished a successful replacement of my screen following these instructions. Thanks.

Step 36 (remove tape from LCD perimeter), however, seems unnecessary. I ended up spending a lot of time separating the tape from the LCD frame only to discover it was not necessary for steps 37-44 and actually made things really difficult for step 45-46 (removing the tape near the speakers). Finally, steps 45-46 can be skipped since it is much easier to remove this tape once you flip the LCD over (Step 55).

Kenneth Snyder - Reply

The LCD is glued to the metal LCD shield plate behind it along the top, left, and right edges. In order to safely loosen this adhesive, you'll be using a guitar pick to shift the LCD a couple of millimeters left and right several times. Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.
  • The LCD is glued to the metal LCD shield plate behind it along the top, left, and right edges. In order to safely loosen this adhesive, you'll be using a guitar pick to shift the LCD a couple of millimeters left and right several times.

  • Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.

  • Bend the pick slightly away from the iPad, just enough to spread the gap between the LCD and rear case.

I found a very simple method for removing the LCD from the metal shield. Slightly lift one of the top corners and insert a 1' piece of fishing line. Insert the line under the other top corner placing the length between the LCD and shield. Once in place, gently pull each end toward the bottom of the LCD breaking the adhesive as you go. This will make things much easier than using the picks and possibly breaking the LCD.

bababooey - Reply

Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case. Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case. Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case.
  • Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case.

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Now switch to the right side of the LCD, and pry with the guitar pick in several places along the side to shift the LCD back to the left. Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right. Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right.
  • Now switch to the right side of the LCD, and pry with the guitar pick in several places along the side to shift the LCD back to the left.

  • Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right.

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In the next few steps, you'll be sliding a spudger between the LCD and the metal backing plate to fully separate the LCD from the adhesive beneath. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate. Be sure to get the spudger between the LCD frame and backing plate, and not beneath the plate. Prying up on the plate will damage it, because it is screwed down to the rear case beneath the LCD.
  • In the next few steps, you'll be sliding a spudger between the LCD and the metal backing plate to fully separate the LCD from the adhesive beneath.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate.

    • Be sure to get the spudger between the LCD frame and backing plate, and not beneath the plate. Prying up on the plate will damage it, because it is screwed down to the rear case beneath the LCD.

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Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push. The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD. If inserting the spudger causes the corner of the LCD to bend up, repeat the steps with the guitar pick to further loosen the adhesive.
  • Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push.

    • The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD.

  • If inserting the spudger causes the corner of the LCD to bend up, repeat the steps with the guitar pick to further loosen the adhesive.

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Repeat the previous procedure along the top of the LCD. Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive. Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.
  • Repeat the previous procedure along the top of the LCD.

  • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.

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Continue with the left side of the LCD: insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD and shield plate and insert the spudger as far as it will go. At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD. At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD.
  • Continue with the left side of the LCD: insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD and shield plate and insert the spudger as far as it will go.

  • At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD.

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Lift the LCD up a couple inches from the rear case to ensure it's free from the adhesive.
  • Lift the LCD up a couple inches from the rear case to ensure it's free from the adhesive.

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Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers. While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.
  • Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.

  • While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.

  • Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers while rotating the spudger outward to separate the tape from the speaker.

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Insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the LCD tape. While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.
  • Insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the LCD tape.

  • While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.

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Flip the LCD over and rest it on top of the front panel glass. Do not attempt to remove the LCD from the iPad, as it is still connected by its data cable.
  • Flip the LCD over and rest it on top of the front panel glass.

  • Do not attempt to remove the LCD from the iPad, as it is still connected by its data cable.

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Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:
  • Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:

    • Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00

    • Thirteen 1.7 mm Phillips #00

    • One additional 1.7 mm Phillips #00 on some devices.

At the iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are only 7 screws.

sandro - Reply

On my iPad Mini (Gen 1 WiFi; A1432), these are not #00 screws, but #000 screws. They're much tinier than the first four screws that held the LCD tabs in place. The #00 driver sorta works, but requires a lot of force to get traction. The #000 driver works like a charm, though.

volty - Reply

On my 1432 there were mixed in 4 tiny #000 screws holding the shield plate aong the right side. Looks like these can be mixed in without consequence as they are shorter anyway

gfriedman99 - Reply

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the LCD shield plate from the bottom end of the iPad. Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the LCD shield plate from the bottom end of the iPad.

  • Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.

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Remove the LCD shield plate from the iPad.
  • Remove the LCD shield plate from the iPad.

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Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.
  • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.

  • Be sure to not substitute these three screws with any other screws, specifically the screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad. Any slightly longer screws may strip the screw holes and result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...

jessabethany - Reply

Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!

Walter Galan -

Be careful: At iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are thw short and one longer screw! Don't mix them!

sandro - Reply

Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the connector shield from the iPad.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the connector shield from the iPad.

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Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder

Mattis - Reply

I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?

Grillwrecka -

Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.

Andrew Kivell -

There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.

jessabethany -

After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.

While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.

Michael Vovaris - Reply

Yeah, you need to put the pick in between the connections so the battery doesn't touch the logic board connector and blow a fuse and make your backlight not turn on. You really don't want to have to solder the 2 connections together, especially if you don't know how, like me! I will use your comment's advice when working.

WolfyHD - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board. Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.

Michael Vovaris - Reply

The LCD is still connected to the rest of the iPad by two wide strips of adhesive tape that run up from the inside of the rear case to the front bottom LCD frame. While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad's right side. Slide the spudger outward, separating the tape, while gently lifting up on the LCD to pull it away from the tape.
  • The LCD is still connected to the rest of the iPad by two wide strips of adhesive tape that run up from the inside of the rear case to the front bottom LCD frame.

  • While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad's right side.

  • Slide the spudger outward, separating the tape, while gently lifting up on the LCD to pull it away from the tape.

  • It may help to twist the spudger, to spread the gap the rest of the way and separate the LCD from the tape.

Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD

Nick Hughes - Reply

While still holding the LCD up with one hand, move on to the iPad's left side and repeat the previous step's procedure to separate the second piece of tape. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.
  • While still holding the LCD up with one hand, move on to the iPad's left side and repeat the previous step's procedure to separate the second piece of tape.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.

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Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini. Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.
  • Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.

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Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board. Be very careful to pry evenly on the connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won't work.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to pry evenly on the connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won't work.

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Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case. Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case.
  • Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case.

Be careful not to dislodge any of the surface mount components next to the connectors. This is sometimes a reason for the digitiser not working.

Simon - Reply

Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad. Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.
  • Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.

== After step 55 ==

Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.

Good Luck!!!!

Mike - Reply

If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.

Mike -

might be better to use a vacuum for safety reasons. you really dont want glass shards all over the place

gfriedman99 - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to start peeling up the right side of the black tape covering the small metal bracket. Peel the tape up the rest of the way with tweezers, and remove it from the bracket. Peel the tape up the rest of the way with tweezers, and remove it from the bracket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to start peeling up the right side of the black tape covering the small metal bracket.

  • Peel the tape up the rest of the way with tweezers, and remove it from the bracket.

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Use a plastic opening tool to push the metal bracket slightly to the left. Use a plastic opening tool to push the metal bracket slightly to the left.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to push the metal bracket slightly to the left.

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Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the lower side of the metal bracket. Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the lower side of the metal bracket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the lower side of the metal bracket.

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Grab the bracket with tweezers and lift it up out of the iPad. During reassembly, hook the top edge of the plate in place first, then lower the bottom into its slots.
  • Grab the bracket with tweezers and lift it up out of the iPad.

  • During reassembly, hook the top edge of the plate in place first, then lower the bottom into its slots.

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Use a plastic opening tool to pry the top right antenna ribbon cable up from its socket on the logic board. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the top right antenna ribbon cable up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the top right antenna ribbon cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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Remove the following three screws securing the top right antenna to the rear case:
  • Remove the following three screws securing the top right antenna to the rear case:

    • Two 1.3 mm #00 Phillips screws from the side of the antena's socket.

    • One 1.8 mm #00 Phillips screw.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the top right antenna's coaxial connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the top right antenna's coaxial connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the top right antenna's coaxial connector from its socket on the logic board.

Where can i get this replacement coaxial connector? Please let me know. Micoolbeats@gmail.com

Micool - Reply

Use tweezers to lift and remove the top right antenna from the rear case. Use tweezers to lift and remove the top right antenna from the rear case.
  • Use tweezers to lift and remove the top right antenna from the rear case.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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One Comment

How the &&^& do I click those &&^&@*@ together in the last 3 steps when putting it together again? Thats the hard part...........need some kind of trick! Its impossible without luck if there is no trick.

iffbas - Reply

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